Honeywell Evohome underfloor heating issue

What is the "remote sensor" bound to? I presume the floor only heats when demand for the floor is above 0%?

1. If you turn off all the uhf zones, does the kitchen cool down.

2. Is that temperature on the kitchen wall stat the actual measured temperature of the room, or the set temperature, that is, what happens when you turn this stat down, does it briefly display the requested temperature.

3. If turning off all zones cools all ufh zones, when you turn up any zone other than the kitchen, does the kitchen heat up?

Point 3 would suggest that one or both of the two manifold actuator controlled valves is not closing when the kitchen zone is off and power is removed from the actuator. I notice a blue ring on the top of both kitchen actuators. Is this a visual indication that the actuator is raised and on and is not compressing the pin on the valve to close it? It looks very like one circuit of your kitchen ufh (you have two) is allowing hot flow to circulate even when the actuator is unpowered, normally closed, and is not compressing the pin in the valve to close it. I'm guessing the raised actuator caps are and indication that the actuator plunger is lifted, either because it is powered or because it is not returning to closed. There should be no power to the actuator when it is off. It's also possible that the actuator is receiving power from some source, a faulty controller relay perhaps, meaning it never fully closes.

We're the actuator blue lights off when the actual kitchen temperature exceeded its setpoint by more than say 1.5C?

If these have only been labelled since the manifold swap, it's quite possible that some zones are opening each others loops. The actuators may be mixed up. You'll have to turn everything off. Let it cool substantially. Read the measured cooled temperatures. Then open just one zone, dining say. Observe which actuators raise. Your bare feet should tell you which floors are warming. If there's a mismatch, and a particular zone seems to be heating more than one room, then you've found your problem. You should also check to see if hot flow only moves from the manifold to the opened actuator. You will feel the top pipes heating if the flow is leaving them, so there should be no flow from the top manifold if it's corresponding actuator underneath is closed. Having said that I'm hoping that the top pipes are the matching flows for the bottom actuator controlled returns. If these got swapped during the manifold replacement, its not an issue as such, but it adds to the confusion. Heres hoping that the match.

You need to establish which flow heats which area. The fact that three rooms have dual loops means there is greater potential for a mix up. There are 7040 ways you can position the 7 actuator heads on the valves! Only 8 are correct.

When you done this, did only the correct zones Heat, e.g, did only the kitchen ufh come on when you selected kitchen. Does the dining room ufh not heat at all? If these valves are always closed had you not noticed it colder, or perhaps it was being warmed by the air moving from adjoining rooms. Are they separated by doors, or is it open plan? As the dining room actuators don't seem to operate at all, I suspect that your Dining room stat or sensor is paired to the same relay that opens the kitchen actuators. This would explain why the kitchen actuators remain open and heating though the kitchen stat is turned down below current temperature. With all zones off and all actuators closed, does turning up the dining room result in the kitchen actuators opening? This is the only other logical explanation, and the problem would appear to lie with misconfiguration of the stats or sensors to the actual evohome relays which operate the actuators. If the hall stat is doubling up on opening another zone, it's never going to heat its own sensor and as a consequence it will hold that other zone open. I should also ask if the room thermostat sensors are all just air temperature sensors, without wired sensors down into the floor. I presume there is one of these circular wireless display sensors for each uhf zone? The configuration page for the Kitchen shows "Devices Bound" in the 'RF Devices Binding' panel. Can you expand this in the controller or on the app, to see which actual device is bound.

You have to establish if another zone somewhere is keeping the kitchen actuators open. Don't forget that heated air from an adjacent heated zone may be convecting into the kitchen from another room raising the room temperature, despite the kitchen stat being lowered below current temperature. I presume all your actuators are wired back to an Evohome HCE80 or HCC80 ufh controller. The binding of this is reasonably complex. The minimum version has 5 zones. Up to 3 actuators per zone can be powered, though not every zone wiring termination has three terminal plugs, so I assume the dual zoned actuators are just spliced together together at the ufh controller. Try opening the dining again, but with the kitchen off and its actuator caps down. See if the kitchen ones open when they shouldn't. Heres some reading for your also.

What basically needs to be established is which remote sensor is the kitchen zone, is there more than one, and which devices, namely the actuator relays in the ufh controller, are bound to which zone. Particularly the dining room sensor. The round single zone stat you posted, (T87RF) is interesting in that it doesn't appear on the list of devices that can be bound to the uhf controller as a sensor device, only three other types with digital, analogue and no manual adjustment are listed. Has every zone got a (T87RF) to set its temperature locally?

Evohome sensor is afaik the built in sensor on that wireless and portable controller unit, so you can have it beside you in the living room say and use it to get an accurate reading of temperature right beside you.

If you turn the kitchen off completely, set it right down, what kind of temperature does it read after a day of the other zones being on. Can you tell from the floor if its warming even though its actuators are off? A little infra-red thermometer is a useful tool in this regard, even a medical one, as it will show the floor radiant temperature , you can compare zones to their stat settings to see if they're pushing out heat despite their actuator valves being off. If any single actuator on the manifold is open for heat, the boiler and mixing valve/pump assembly kicks in, so if any of those actuators is not pushing their valve pin fully home, even a tiny bit, that zone will heat though its valves are supposedly closed.