Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Heat Pumps - post here.

Options
17172747677119

Comments

  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,422 Mod ✭✭✭✭igCorcaigh


    I signed up for monthly billing when I moved house, because it's now available to me with the smart meter.

    I'm on EI's Home Electric + SST plan.

    No idea about my previous place, it was a small old 2 bed flat with a manual meter.

    This place is bigger, 75 m2 floor space.



    The typical daily usage pattern is like this. A spike in the morning, and another in the evening. The only appliance I might use in the morning might be the kettle to make a cup of coffee.




  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    Your usage doesn’t look excessive in anyway. Your plan must be killing you. Your around 20kwh per day and it was cold last month.

    a night meter is what you need but probably not possible. Shop around and try get a plan with an off peak night time rate and load as much on there as possible, run your hp non stop during that window time your machines etc. After that just run the hp during off peak and let the apartment hold the heat.


    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Id say its working ok.. your use isnt too bad,

    But, the spikes you are talking about, are waaay more than just a coffee.

    Is there any schedule with your heatpump? eg a setback at night, a boost in the morning and a boost in the evening? (morning looks like a 3kw load from 8:30 to 10:30 and something similar in the evening

    thats 6kwh in the morning roughly and maybe about 8? in the evening?

    possibly the morning one could be moved earlier (before 8am) to take advantage of the cheaper night rates you have.


    (a bit of different perspective, im sinking 30 odd kwh into my house heating wise on my night rate (8c) which is still half the price of the equivalent amount of heat from oil, But there is a big difference with electric being at 8c vs your day rate at 44c!.. And on the cold days it just does the initial lift before i get the stove going.)

    but the rates have gone up a hell of a lot, in 21 we had been used to rates under 20 c, now they are pushing 50c.



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,422 Mod ✭✭✭✭igCorcaigh


    I'm not using the timer. That's what we were told to do. It's set to the lowest setpoint of 17C. Mystery!



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,422 Mod ✭✭✭✭igCorcaigh


    You mean I should use the timer function to make it run at night time only? I'm on SST which has a cheaper rate from 11pn to 8am.

    I could try that, but we were told to not use the timer and keep it turned to ON at all times.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 11,395 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    There's some conflicting advice on that


    So the most efficient way to run a heap pump is always on and set to the minimum flow temp that will keep your house at the desired temperature

    Unfortunately, this doesn't account for things like night rate electricity

    What a few folks are doing is setting the temp higher at night to build up some heat in the house and then have a lower setpoint during the day

    In general it's better not to use the timer settings and instead use the thermostats to control the temperature

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    As @graememk said You’ve got two really heavy periods of use during peak times morning and evening. Figure out what’s causing that and move those things to night rate if possible. You have minimal usage otherwise. So when is the hp producing hot water? Is this timed for morning and evening perhaps and if so why not on cheap night rate.

    some recommend running the home on demand for heating others like me run ours at night and let the floor release the heat throughout the day but then that depends on your building.

    you have low usage between 2am and 7am and more during daytime. Do you work from home? If not what is using more power when you’re not there than when you are. If it’s the hp I’d set timers.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,395 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    To echo @graememk those high usage spikes are a bit suspicious. Could be the hot water tank heating up again

    You'll want to try and get rid of that spike in the evening, the peak rate on a smart plan is a killer. Turn the hot wat off during that time and if possible set the heating back to a slightly lower temp

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    You may burn more kwh hours this way but if those units are substantially cheaper you spend less. Night time units tend to be greener so the environmental harm of the extra units is somewhat off set. Well that’s my justification to myself anyway 🙂. If you understand and can change setting without stressing you can always give it a go and then change back if it has no effect on the bill or it effects your comfort level.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,422 Mod ✭✭✭✭igCorcaigh


    I do work from home, but don't use much appliances apart from my laptop.

    The spikes I think must be related to the heat pump, which also supplies constant hot water (which is just warm enough to have a shower, not roasting).

    I have the setpoint set to the minimum both day and night. I might switch my plan to Night Boost and put the heating on timer, set to night only. That should hopefully prevent those daytime peaks? Not sure what else to try...

    Thanks to all who replied. 👍️



  • Advertisement
  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Have a poke through the settings of your heatpump and see what you can see regarding domestic hot water etc.

    I'm assuming you have a hot water cylinder then?

    Do you have radiators or under floor heating?



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,422 Mod ✭✭✭✭igCorcaigh


    Thanks. Just rads, no underfloor. The water is heated by the heat pump somehow. I don't seem to have any way of controlling it, except for adjusting the water temperature.

    So my usage of 20kwh per day is not excessive?

    My yearly bill could be in excess of €3.6K, way more than what Electric Ireland are estimating here:




  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    Your usage should be less in the summer so may work out at they have said. The spikes are the most interesting. If you could work those out as to what they are you’d be sorted. Do your radiators get hot at those times more so than others?? If not I’d bet it’s a hot water setting on the heatpump unless your making 3 course hot breakfasts and again in the evenings with the drier rocking.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,497 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    @igCorcaigh

    First things first you should be on their Home Electric + night boost, the rates are less than the SST rate but also does NOT have a peak rate...

    Also don't be judging your annual usage by multiplying out your last bill, come the spring and summer you will not need heating.


    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,574 ✭✭✭Gooser14


    EAB is based on an average consumption of 4200kWh per annum as advised by the Commission for the Regulation of Utilities (CRU). If you go into bonkers.ie and input your annual consumption figures you will get a more accurate estimate of your annual cost. Alternatively you could create a spreadsheet to calculate the cost based on the plan you are on.



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,395 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin




    Those estimates are based on the CRU defined average electricity usage, and quite frankly they're sh!t


    I'd say you'd expect to see double that usage with a heat pump

    You'll see a considerable drop off in consumption from around March onwards because the heating load will drop off


    As others have said, you want to figure out those peaks. Try to keep an eye on your heat pump during the day to see what it's doing. It's possible it isn't set up properly and it's using the backup heater when it shouldn't be

    Do you know the make a model heat pump? Others here might have more knowledge of it

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,422 Mod ✭✭✭✭igCorcaigh


    Thanks everyone.

    It's a Victorum heating system.

    If my rads come on this evening or in the morning I'll check to see if the heating icon turns orange, and keep an eye on to see when the water icon turns orange.

    I'll definitely change my plan to Night Boost too. 👍️




  • Registered Users Posts: 12,120 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    Is the pic above your actual system? It is showing an active alarm on the top right. What’s that alarm?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,370 ✭✭✭kabakuyu


    Its very confusing for lots of people,most if not all installers are advising to have heat pump on all the time,which is the most efficient use of heat pumps but it now turns out it is probably the more expensive option as well.



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,422 Mod ✭✭✭✭igCorcaigh


    Yes.

    The ambient temperature sensor warning has always been there; the engineers are aware of it.

    The other error codes seem to indicate problems with the water pressure...

    Error 70 Water pressure sensor error

    Error 95 Water pressure is critcally low (<0.3bar)




  • Advertisement
  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Do you have a hotpress? There's likely an expansion tank in there and somewhere to top up the pressure of the system.

    That low pressure is likely from the heating system, could indicate a leak. First course of action would normally be topping it up, and monitoring. Or that there is anti freeze valves on the outdoor unit which bleeds off some water to stop freezing damaging pipes.


    Top left second icon, is likely the monitor for the HW tank.



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,395 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    There should be a manual pressure gauge in the hot press, plus a valve to refill the system from mains. I'd check that to see what the system pressure is like

    Pressure issues can cause problems where the heat pump isn't able to reach the target temperature and will use the immersion heaters

    Is the ambient temperature sensor busted? If so, then you definitely want that fixed because the heat pump can't do any weather compensation and won't operate efficiently

    A lot of the controllers will show the outside temp if it's available

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 33 aleesi


    @igCorcaigh (as ECO_Mental pointed out) this is the first thing you should be addressing, also try to shift as much as possible your consumption to night rates, appliances and HP by setting the thermostat temp slightly higher overnight (on the cheap rates) which will keep the house warmer during the day with less electricity usage (at the more expensive rates)



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,422 Mod ✭✭✭✭igCorcaigh


    No hot press.

    Apartment is a brand new build. Moved in just over two months ago.

    This is the setup:




  • Registered Users Posts: 12,120 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    Well, they are red flags anyway.... low pressure and temp sensors not working are going to cause you running problems.

    You need to get those fixed first. Its a new build so there is no excuse for the installer to be walking off site with those alarms active. Get them back asap, as the longer you leave it the less chance you have of them fixing it under warranty.


    Then reassess what your running costs are like after that.

    I'd recommend you invest in a cheap clip on energy monitor and attach it to the HP, then you'll have a good idea what its actually costing.



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,422 Mod ✭✭✭✭igCorcaigh


    Thanks for all the great advice people, I really appreciate it.

    Switched my plan today to Night Booster, will see how it goes 👍

    Engineers should be around tomorrow, hopefully I might catch them.



  • Registered Users Posts: 196 ✭✭UID0


    Check and see if the heat pump is actually running when it's calling for heat. With those errors it is possible that it will just run the immersion to heat all your water instead of running the compressor.

    Your morning and evening peaks are possibly domestic hot water heating. On install, most heat pumps are set to heat hot water on an as needed basis regardless of time, so if you have a shower it will replenish the water immediately. From an economic point of view it makes more sense to heat your hot water on night rate only, unless you find you are running out of water during the day. The temperature of the hot water probably has 2 settings. One is the flow set point which will be set on the heat pump, and the other is the desired set point of the hot water cylinder which will be set using a thermostat on the cylinder. The cylinder thermostat could be a mechanical thermostat or a temperature setting on the heat pump control panel.

    Also, what's the switch that's turned off beside the expansion vessel?



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,422 Mod ✭✭✭✭igCorcaigh


    The switch marked Spare?I don't know. I leave it turned off.

    The hot water has no timer control. I don't use the shower in the mornings. Evenings only.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,837 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    @igCorcaigh also bear in mind that a new build will be drying out for the first 18 months or so, so expect higher energy usage during this period.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 275 ✭✭TheUnderfaker


    Hi all, looking for a little bit of advice if anyone can help before I go insane.


    We got a heat pump retrofit last year with our existing radiators and no UFH. The installer set everything up to basically run like a traditional oil/gas boiler. We had a lower limit and a target temperature. The heating would come on when the lower limit was hit, and everything would go off again when the target temp was hit. The system was set to heat the water flow to the radiators to 50°C no matter the weather outside.


    Obviously we saw big spikes in energy usage. During the cold snap we were using over 70kw of energy a day (the whole house, mostly from the heat pump) at one point.


    I started having a look into the weather dependent curve and now have my heat pump running constantly with no usage spikes and the temperature holding consistently throughout the house - But the heat pump is using about 1.5kw/h 24 hours a day now. Water flow to the radiators would be around mid-high 30s Celsius now most of the time now unless it's freezing out.


    House is very comfortable but I'm wondering is this the most efficient way to run things? Or should I allow the entire system to shut down from time to time?


    The house is around 2000sqft detached and it's using a 16kw heat pump.



Advertisement