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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 539 ✭✭✭morebabies


    Hi, dumb question alert any advice would be appreciated please:

    We have a hunter herald boiler stove in the kitchen, and I'd like to replace it with a 35kw Senko central heating cooker - apparently it can heat over 20 rads very well along with cooking, it has excellent reviews.

    However the flue we have exiting the Herald and up the chimney is approx 230mm and the Senko cooker only requires a 150mm flue. Can a connector flue be got to link to the chimney where we have a 230mm flexi flue, and does it need to be 150mm flue all the way up the chimney too?

    We have tiling all around where the curved stove flue joins the chimney breast so I'm also wondering if we'll have to break the tiles and start all over again if we want to get this cooker.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 921 ✭✭✭Deregos.


    We love the heat from it, but we're getting fed up of the dust caused by our stove and are looking for advice on whether it's feasible to get our double sided, fuel burning stove, converted to run on cleaner, bottled gas instead?

    Or would we be better off just having a new gas stove fitted?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,366 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    More modern gas fires have controlled venting on them. Changing you stove to gas will leave you with an inefficient heat source.

    Using gas as a heat source is only possible where you are on mains gas. I would not know what option you have with larger gas heating options

    Looking at you stove and the fire in it are you using a lot of coal. I imagine it's heating a large open plan area. Coal can tend to burn out stoves, in that the seals and gasket rope goes. Maybe replace your fire rope through out the stove.

    If you wanted a cleaner option I would look into a wood pellet stove

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 17 popand


    I got a quotation of 1990 Eur for a 7kW Henley Arklow installed in my existing open fire. The price consists of

    7kW insert stove + black metal ornamental surround (existing one will be removed to make space for the stove) + flue kit + insulation + labour

    How does the price look like? Thank you



  • Registered Users Posts: 33 snowdaisy


    Try taking a photo, crop it to show just the stove, then use Google lens to find similar images online.



  • Registered Users, Subscribers, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,297 ✭✭✭hometruths


    I have a boiler stove, pretty sure it is a closed system - my basic understanding would be the same water recirculates around the system. Is that correct?

    Reason I ask is our water is off, so no water pressure in house and am wondering is it safe to light the stove? Any advice much appreciated!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,366 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Yes it is safe to light the stove. The water system for your heating is totally separate to your domestic water supply. It has a separate tank that is it reserve. This tank can o ly drain into your heating system.

    Unless the water was off long-term ( weeks and months rather than days)it's not an issue

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Subscribers, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,297 ✭✭✭hometruths




  • Administrators, Business & Finance Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 16,945 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Toots


    Can anyone shed any light on why one side of my stove glass always gets covered in soot, whereas the other side stays clean? It happens no matter what we burn - ovoids, kiln dried logs, briquettes, turf - all ends up the same. I had the door re-roped to see if that helped and new glass installed but no difference. It's a Stanley Erin boiler stove. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about.

    Even when I use the air wash function it won't clear it.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 921 ✭✭✭Deregos.


    Ours was doing that for a while, then it stopped doing it when we had the chimney cleaned.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,366 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    It's probably depends on the way the draft works to an extent. I would not overly worry about. My Eirn is 30 years old. No air wash system on it, just learn to ignore it.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Administrators, Business & Finance Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 16,945 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Toots


    Thanks guys, once it's nothing to worry about I'm happy to just ignore it. We do get a strong downdraft depending on what direction the wind blows. Planning to get the lad who sweeps the chimney to stick a cowl on the next time he's out, so it'll be interesting to see if that makes a difference.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 509 ✭✭✭getoutadodge


    Can I ask how you went about installing a new glass? Price and sourcing etc.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 509 ✭✭✭getoutadodge


    How much for a chimney clean these days? I'm due one soon ...



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 921 ✭✭✭Deregos.


    40 quid, thats country prices. Or you could invest in this and do yourself. https://www.screwfix.ie/p/bailey-19mm-blue-brass-jointed-drain-rod-set-9-14m/79897



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  • Administrators, Business & Finance Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 16,945 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Toots


    Not sure where in the country you're based, but these guys are local-ish to me https://odowdscarrick.com/ I just rang them up and they said drop the door in to them. I had the glass replaced and the door re-roped. I think it was about €85 iirc

    I had the glass changed as the previous owner of the house appeared to have tried to clean it with a sanding disc and it was very badly scuffed/scratched so I was wondering was this contributing to the soot build-up.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 509 ✭✭✭getoutadodge




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 509 ✭✭✭getoutadodge




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,642 ✭✭✭Deco99


    Inset stove pit in instead of an open fire about three months ago. A Boru Beag 5w. Looks like whatever they used to hold the stove into fireplace didn't take as it seems to be a little wobbly and I can see a 10mm gap at side with only a little hold Is this common? Potentially dangerous?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,366 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    A insert stove should sit in,bits lower weight should hold it in place. Anything around it should only seal it in place

    Slava Ukrainii



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 509 ✭✭✭getoutadodge


    I had a Vitae inserted. Noticed the surrounding plasterboard is always hot. The installer returned and added more insulation on top of the stove exterior and put in a extra skirt to lift it way from the plasterboard. But plasterboard still heats up to the point I wonder if its a fire hazard? Should special fire resistant plasterboard be always installed in the surround?




  • Registered Users Posts: 725 ✭✭✭caddy16


    Anyone know if Adam brand is ok quality. Looking for a relatively cheap electric stove and one I found on fireplaceworld.ie looks decent for the money.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,387 ✭✭✭5500


    Hi Guys, hoping someone can shed some light. I've a Vitae 8kw landscape woodburn stove. Local barstool expert says he has the same stove, and is using a multifuel kit from the cassette stove version In it without any problems. He said kit is slightly smaller than the landscape but he keeps the coal central to the grate area and no issues for over a year.

    I'd contacted heat design to ask if there was a kit available but they said kit is only for the cassette that the landscape isn't made to use other fuels, so I guess I'm wondering is what Mr Barstool doing dangerous or are the cassette and landscape stoves made of same material ect but marketed as different styles and there actually is a way to safely burn coal in it with a kit?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 509 ✭✭✭getoutadodge


    Have a Vitae 6 Kw. not sure if its "Landscape". Vendor subsequently inserted two side metal plates in the interior saying I could burn stove coal. So far so good?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,387 ✭✭✭5500


    Sounds like the "multifuel kit" was added to yours, it appears to be 2 side metal plates and a smaller back one and is what he's using. The kit is too small for the landscape and only for the "casette" shape, but he somehow has it in there.

    I don't know what the grate/ashpan is like in the casette version to know if there's a difference there, so can't figure out if it's actual build and materials are totally different and that's why the landscape can't do multifuel, or if it's down to marketing and it it can with some modification aka mr barstool, but I'd rather edge on the side of caution before trying



  • Registered Users Posts: 51 ✭✭Martin32


    Hi all

    Had a 5kw san remo multifuel stove fitted a week ago . Did the initial small lighting as instructed and now see a large crack in the back firebrick board. I know these cracks can happen eventually but after such a short time makes me think this is a piece of cheap imported crap

    would welcome any advice. Thanks



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,738 ✭✭✭Naos


    Getting a stove installed and currently have no vent in the room. Two questions:

    1) I have suspended floors, can I put a vent in the floor instead? (Have lifted the floors previously, timber bone dry so appears to be good ventilation)

    2) In the UK if you have a stove of 5kw or less in a pre 2008 home, you don't need a vent. Why is that not the same here?



  • Registered Users Posts: 102 ✭✭grennscreener


    Want to get a pellet stove in to replace a clapped out wood stove. Anyone any thoughts on the henley bio 80s?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,521 ✭✭✭BoardsMember


    I've access to wood, hard wood, dried (not kiln dried). Thinking of getting a small stove for a snug type room. We'll insulated, has a vent. Room is 3.5m x 2.5m, 3m ceiling. Any ideas on what brand/where to shop? Not looking for an insert, ideally airwash.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 247 ✭✭j.s. pill II


    HEARTH DIMENSIONS

    Apologies if this has been asked before. I have received quotations to install a wood burning stove in living room of my house. I have been told that the minimum dimensions of the hearth (freestanding) must be 84x84cm. They have advised that hearth will rise about 2cm from floor (engineered wood). My concern is that as the living space is quite narrow, the hearth will protrude to where people will walk by to access stariwell and will form a trip hazard.

    My question is, is it possible for hearths to be embedded at the same level of surrounding floorboards ? Something like as pictured here (though without the nasty metal).

    I'm guessing no, due the logic of separating combustible and non combustible material. Are there any solutions to this? 84x84 seems massive but I am aware this this is part of building regulations. Is this link to the most up do date regulations?

    Many thanks



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  • Registered Users Posts: 7 robsull


    Hi All. Question about stove installation costs. Thinking of purchasing an 8Kw Multi Fuel stove and have been quoted 3300 for installation. Is this roughly the going rate or a bit on the high side.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,366 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    What type of house. What will the installation involve. Are you sitting the stove in front of an existing opening or recessing it back.

    Will the installation involve a surround , tiling, plinth etc. I presume the chimney must be lined. Is the stove extra. Is the stove supplier doing the installation

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 7 robsull


    Dormer house. Im removing the existing fireplace and sitting the stove in front of the opening. They will be closing up the opening. No surround.

    Must get a new hearth as the current one is cracked and the new one will be a different size. Yes they chimney has to be lined, with high grade liner they said as its multi fuel, The stove is another 2k on top of the installation cost. And yes the stove supplier is doing the installation.

    Thanks



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,366 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    They are putting a proper saddle on you. I know things have got expensive and some dormer roofs are hard to access. Did a similar job two years ago but opened up the fireplace and tiled around the internal part not a dormer roof and chimney was at side of house

    I never heard of a high grade liner. There are two grades gas fire liners and solid fuel liners. The difference in price of liners is miniscule. I cannot imagine liner, cowl, crow guard along with vermiculite and other bits and pieces being more than 7-800 euro inc vat. A plinth should cost no more than 2-300 euro.

    They will have 2300+ in for labour and fitting. Vat is 450 euro on the complete job. Not only that as they are fitting your stove I think (I may be wrong) they can reduce the applied vat rate to 13.5 from 23% on the stove so another 100 euro.

    That is a fairly simple job you could do that yourself if you have a lad to do the roof and the tidying up around the opening and the plinth.

    The trick to doing the opening is adding either cement or bonding to the hardwall and it goes off faster.

    Post edited by Bass Reeves on

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 456 ✭✭Browning2010


    Looking for opinions on the henly (skellig) 8kw stove?

    Can get one supplied and fitted(new liner etc) for 2900euro is this a fair price?

    Thanks.



  • Registered Users Posts: 229 ✭✭westsidestory


    Have 2 separate systems in the 1 house.


    System no1:

    15.5 metres of radiators so undecided between the Henley Sherwood 21kw or 25kw based on different recommendation from 2 suppliers.


    System no.2:

    9.3 metres of radiators with one supplier saying Henley Sherwood 18kw will do and other saying go with Henley Sherwood 21 kW.


    Anyone have experience of this? They are solid fuel stoves with back boilers.


    Have been quoted €700 for a 5 kW Atlantic stove Bay insert job.


    Going with no flexi flu or solid flu into chimney and leaving as is.



  • Registered Users Posts: 559 ✭✭✭divillybit


    If you're not using a flexible flue liner and vermiculite there is a good chance the existing flue liner in your chimney could crack from the higher temperatures if you're putting in an insert stove.



  • Registered Users Posts: 229 ✭✭westsidestory


    The 5 kW insert stove was the one I was told by both suppliers not to bother with flue liners. The 2 larger units will be free standing, will that make a difference?



  • Registered Users Posts: 559 ✭✭✭divillybit


    I don't it makes any difference if its free standing or not. Did your suppliers say why a flue liner would not be needed? Not sure what kind of house you have but when I bought my house in 2015 the builder had said that because I was putting in a stove (stanley cara with back boiler) that a flue liner was needed. If I didn't put in the flue liner and the flue cracked afterwards he said he wouldn't be responsible for it.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,366 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    I say he was just covering his ar5e. I have a Stanley Eirn 40k btu stove (11.7kw) in a standard chimney for the last 30+ years. It was fitted before liners ever started to be used. The chimney is perfect.

    Most of the reason for flue liners is so that the stove emitts it heat sooner, faster and you get more output from the stove.

    A stove looses heat warming up the chimney. As the heat in the chimney rises it sends more to the room. The reason for vermiculite is yes it stops transfer of heat into the chimney but the vermiculite again in insulating the liner is actually allowing the chimney ( this is actually what the liner is) to heat faster and again for the room to heat faster. Another reason for the vermiculite is to help prevent you liner rusting and extend its lifespan. If you had no vermiculite there would be a lot of condensation on your liner as it heats and cools condensation would form as cold air hits it. The vermiculite also helps prevent a down draft as cold air would constantly be coming into the empty space around the liner if it was not filled. Finally if a home co.es in your liner while monoxide will escape the vermiculite will slow down its progress


    Having said all that @westsidestory I be of the opinion you should line your chimneys it's a better job in the long term

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 852 ✭✭✭mayto


    I have an Oisin stove which sits into the fireplace and I am going to connect a flue liner to the rear of it. Hoping to backfill with vermuculite so I need to fill the gap between liner and bottom of clay chimney pot. I have some cermamic fibre blanket which I will wrap around the flue liner and push up to seal the gap. Did anyone do similar? I will have to push the stove back into fireplace slightly after I connect vitreous pipe. thanks



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,366 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    You cound use Rock wool to seal between the flue and the clay chimney pots. Make sure it's a Rock wool as it has a much higher thermal point than glass wool

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,513 ✭✭✭Tony H


    really stupid question , my wife has taken out the fire bricks to fit in larger logs in an Oisin stove , we are currently having a dissagrement over whether this is safe or not , I think the bricks are necessary and she does not , who is right ? ,

    obviously I won't tell her if she is right but in all seriousness , are firebricks needed for the safe operation of a stove burning mostly hardwood logs ?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 852 ✭✭✭mayto


    Ye rockwool might be easier work with, should do the job tks



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,276 ✭✭✭RainInSummer


    Removing them will kill the longevity of your stove according to my stove guy when I asked him.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,513 ✭✭✭Tony H




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,545 ✭✭✭Sono


    I’ve just had a Henley Arklow stove installed and was wondering if anyone knew how to ensure the handle closes all the way down rather than hang out to the left if that makes sense, it’s closed tight but handle sticking out.

    Apologies if this is a ridiculous question but Google didn’t help either!



  • Registered Users, Subscribers, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,297 ✭✭✭hometruths


    Does anybody have a recommendation for a stove fitter in North Wicklow?

    I need a boiler stove replaced, have the new one, and all the plumbing is in place, so it should be relatively straightforward job.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,871 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    The bricks act as an energy store and to keep the heat in the burning chamber. It means that when you introduce a new log into the fire, you're wholly dependent on the heat off the burning embers to ignite the new log as there isn't any reflected or stored heat off the bricks as it's already gone into the room. It's not more efficient, it's just more annoying.

    Some stoves work like that, I recall using a woodburner Moreso which didn't have bricks, so it used to flare-up and emit heat over a 20 min period and then die-down rapidly. It was a pain really as it needed to be stoked and refueled frequently.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,623 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    Open the door.

    Let the handle hang down and close the door as far as it will. Move the handle towards the glass until the door closes fully, then press the handle back down,

    They can lock in a couple of positions.



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