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Burnt plug prongs on PC?

  • 16-01-2023 9:35pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 26 pennypacker


    Unplugged and moved PC as needed to do some cleaning in the area. Noticed the tips of the prongs the gold plating looked burnt/eroded. It hasn't been unplugged and plugged back in that often in it's 5.5 years of use but I did notice that on occasion it would make a low volume pop and a little spark of blue light when being plugged in

    I'm assuming this is no good...




Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,768 ✭✭✭meercat


    Replace the wall socket

    cut the plug top off and fit a new one also


    should resolve the issue



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 835 ✭✭✭Deregos.


    Had a similar thing with a plug getting hot. There was two lives and two neutrals going into the back of the double socket, the two blue neutral wires were burnt/blackened and the little screw that was supposed to secure them into the socket was loose. Stripped back the damaged cable and fitted a new double socket. Sorted. Make sure and turn off the relevant trip switch before working on the socket.

    Pictures of your own bad parking WITH CHAT



  • Registered Users Posts: 26 pennypacker


    Thanks for the replies lads.

    So the PC is plugged into a 5 gang extension which is chained into another two socket extension lead connected to the single socket as it is not possible to connect directly to a socket on it's own as the same single socket is powering a TV and a couple of lamps. The distance to the socket necessitates the chaining. When backing stuff up there'll be a few external hard drives also connected but I always assumed they were fairly low power.

    Not an electrician or remotely handy and also fairly terrified of electricity, so replacing a wall socket is not exactly on my to do list 😁 Any chance it is the extension lead and not the socket?

    I guess you're both saying this is a fire hazard waiting to happen in any case

    the plug says Volex on it but I'm struggling to read any identifying part numbers. Does this look like it will do the job

    https://ie.farnell.com/volex/352780/power-cord-uk-to-iec-2m-10a-black/dp/1196440?MER=sy-me-pd-mi-alte



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,505 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    Check what fuse is in your previous one as might need to be downgraded .

    Sometimes pins differ in size and spacing


    You could fit a new plug in place as all you need is to follow how to wire a 13amp plug on Youtube if needed and check what fuse is in the old plug



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 835 ✭✭✭Deregos.


    No worries, don't go pulling at the wall socket if you're not feeling confident. Just replace any of the plug-in cables/leads that you can.

    Yes, especially those two connected extension leads which will overheat if to long or coiled. Invest in one decent surge protection lead thats the correct length for the job.

    https://www.screwfix.ie/c/electrical-lighting/extension-leads/cat830084?surgeprotection=surge_protected

    Yep, that power lead in the link you posted will replace the one going into the PC.

    Pictures of your own bad parking WITH CHAT



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 835 ✭✭✭Deregos.


    Just read your post again and had missed this bit.

    "same single socket is powering a TV and a couple of lamps"

    I'd say you're overloading that single socket with equipment. You might well have to find another socket to plug some of these devices into or get an electrician in to install more sockets in the room.

    Pictures of your own bad parking WITH CHAT



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,715 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    A blue spark and pop when inserting a plug is often caused by devices with large capacitors (such as PC PSU's) which rapidly charge the capacitors after being unplugged for a period. Some PSU's are much worse than others in this respect. They aren't necessarily a sign that the plug or socket are going faulty. Heat, on the other hand from a plug or socket (providing that there isn't a USB charger in the socket), would be an indication of a fault where either the wires or pins are loose or worn.

    I'd move the PC over to it's own wall socket.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    "Heat"

    Or a sustained load that overheats the plug/socket



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,715 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Oh and I forgot to mention that the basis of my info above is on the fact that the burning is on the curve of the tip where the prong would initially make or break contact with the female pins within the socket. This would be the location where the current would initially surge through if this was a capacitance related surge - burns further down the pin would be indicative of overloading.

    Yes, thanks for pointing that out!





  • The only explanation to this is that the socket contacts are loose or worn. It should be replaced. It seems to be arcing.

    If the plug is damaged it should be cut off and replaced with a new one, or if it’s a removable cable with an IEC “kettle lead” and you happen to have a spare one handy, just swap the cable.

    Plug pins absolutely do not vary in size and spacing, as suggested above. There is only one specification for Irish/UK plugs. If the pins are smaller or have another spacing, it’s a dangerous device that shouldn’t be on the market.

    There was some issue with weird plugs in the same shape as ours, but with skinny pins and no fuse being illegal imported from somewhere, but they shouldn’t have ever been sold here or in the UK. That plug looks totally normal though.

    As for the fuse being wrong rating. That would also make no difference here. The plug top fuse is just a simple, fairly slow blowing fuse that is really only there to prevent overloading of the appliance’s flex/cord, and is essential as final circuits are protected usually with 16amp, but mostly 20amp or 32amp MCBs, which is more than the plug can handle - hence the 13amp, 10amp, 5amp or 3amp fuse.

    Most short circuits and faults to Earth get picked up by the MCBs and RCD long before those fuses melt, but they are useful in a sustained overload - eg: too many things plugged into an extension lead.

    Where plug top fuses can cause an issue tends to be where the fuse holder is not sitting right or is bent out of shape, which causes heating of the fuse holder and Iive pin and will usually burn the plug and socket.

    What’s happening here though is just an arc fault - a worn or damaged socket.

    If you don’t feel confident about or aren’t familiar with changing a socket, get someone who is familiar with this or call an electrician.

    There will often be two sets of wires behind the socket as they’re usually daisy chained in a radial or a ring.

    Also make sure the circuit is definitely fully switched off before going near it and ensure you have proper tools.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 26 pennypacker


    Thanks for all the input.


    The consensus seems to be the socket needs looking at. If there is an issue would it be a visible issue that someone who knows nothing could see there is a problem or would it require having a multimeter or other electrician tools.

    I had a look in the fuse box and there is a single fuse/switch for the sockets in the room. Turns out there's a second damaged socket hidden behind a chest of drawers that I had no idea was there. I've attached a picture if anyone can help and tell me if that's just 'cosmetic' damage

    and just needs a new cover like this one

    https://ie.farnell.com/pro-elec/9143/unswitched-socket-1-gang-13a-240v/dp/2832133

    With respect to stopping power to the sockets, do I just flick the switch off and everything is safe to interact with? Is there any chance that the switch has a problem and the sockets remain live without me knowing and without having a multimeter to test?

    Since I'm here quick question about fuse boxes. So the fuse box in question is relatively newly fitted (2016?) and everything is modern trip switches (?) except the main fuse which is on of those old twist bulb yokes. Any ideas why an electrician would leave the old style main fuse in place and not replace it with a more modern version?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,505 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    Hard to know if that backing plate is also damaged and might need replacing also

    Get new screws to hold the front onto rear as one does not know if damaged ?

    If you knew what what trip switch was for power it would help

    + phase tester for checking for live feeds on wires before touching them.

    My electrician had a special plug he put in to test wiring and leds would light up on the plug.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,535 ✭✭✭ForestFire


    My steps for testing live wire would be...


    1) Have a lap/light plugged into the socket and on, then flip the switch to make sure it actually kills the power

    2) Phase tester, Test first on a live plug to ensure it's working and you know what you looking for, then test on the dead plug.

    3)Remove the socket and test wires again at the back and unscrew wires as needed, without touching them.

    4) Test wires again with phase test, just to be sure

    5) Before using your hands to work on wires, touch them with the back of your hand, at this stage you should be sure there dead, but no harm in one final test. back of hands is very important, just in case they are live, or the wife/partner has it in for you!!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    Ah here ! you dont touch the conductors to test them for anyone reading

    You work without making any contact with the socket conductors either with hands or through uninsulated tools

    Electricians will be proving dead and using VDE insulated tools but there is no need for accidentally contacting anything on these jobs , it's a bad habit to get into



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    Best sequence is :

    Isolate with RCD/RCBO and lock off (or tape off)

    Prove dead with a voltage tester and proving unit or live source (Use voltage tester which doesn't require batteries)

    Check with non-contact tester before starting

    Use VDE or insulated tools and don't make contact with any of the live conductors while working



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    Normally isolate with RCD or RCBO when working on domestic sockets

    Get customer to shut down PC's TVs etc

    Reason is you can end up tripping it easily enough shorting N and E if you're only isolating at MCB



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,535 ✭✭✭ForestFire


    Thanks, Not a sparky, but though I was tested enough times before starting and my final test, but possibly still doing it wrong, so always open to better advise.


    I always do this "final" incorrect test, as sometimes working in tight spaces, sockets, overhead, light fixtures etc. accidental touches can happen, and not having the most up-to-date tools probably doesn't help either to striping, adding multiple wire (loops) to one contact etc. (Also I probably should have said brush rather than touch but the same issues as you highlighted)


    So I will keep in mind in future, to skip my last test and try to always work without touching the exposed wires at all.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    No bother .Non- contact tester is the best final check as a precaution



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 835 ✭✭✭Deregos.


    Rather than using the back of my hand to pinpoint live circuitry, I prefer to simply lick the wires with my tongue to quickly identify which, if any cables are carrying a live electrical current.

    Jimmy Fuckhead,

    National Burns Unit,

    St. Jame's Hospital.

    Pictures of your own bad parking WITH CHAT



  • Registered Users Posts: 26 pennypacker


    don't really have access to a voltage tester. Any reason for not using a battery powered one? was looking at a cheap multimeter for €4 on the website where the new plug is coming from. Internet seems to suggest that can be used to test if the socket is live but please tell me if the internet is wrong (wouldnt be first time)

    What does isolate with RCD/RCBO mean? Here's the fusebox with the relevant fuse/switch highlighted. I was going to push that to the off position and then have a look at the socket. Is that wrong/dangerous?

    Thanks again for the assistance, it's really appreciated.


    EDIT: it's an old photo and I just noticed it shows a tripped switch for the ceiling light.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    Was just posting what I consider a good method , you can do it differently as long as you're working safely, it's DIY after all

    The regulations allow you to replace a socket



  • Registered Users Posts: 26 pennypacker


    I don''t know if I'm working safely, thats the problem😁

    So is pushing down the relevant fuse/switch enough to ensure I don't meet my maker?



  • Registered Users Posts: 26 pennypacker


    Google led me to believe that an Irish socket can handle 13A. I calculated with everything connected at full throttle it would be 700w from the wall which at 230V gives 3A or so. Am I totally misunderstanding the 'rated for 13A' concept? Feel free to tell me I'm being an idiot.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    That is the problem .You have to know yourself that it's safe

    That takes a little experience to be completely safe . No point in reading instructions





  • The number of devices is irrelevant. The total load is all that matters. You cannot exceed 13 amps, which is 2990 Watts at 230V

    Home computers, electronics etc draw very little power.

    If you exceed 13 amps on a normal power strip the plug fuse will blow. It’s generally fairly hard to overload an Irish socket, unless you’re doing something to bypass the fusing in the plug.

    You’ll see things like kettles marketed as 3kW (3000W). That’s only if they’re used on 240V mains (UK spec). In Ireland they’ll draw less on 220-230V. The actual rating plate usually say something like 2800-3000W

    The plugs and adaptors are all fused - it’s a very simple, physical way of preventing overloads.

    Basically, only ever use a good quality power strip and avoid strange adaptors from dubious sources, don’t bypass shutters and force European plugs in without a fused adaptor and it’s all a very foolproof and fail safe system.

    Post edited by [Deleted User] on


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