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Nissan Leaf

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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,643 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    A new PTC heater costs nearly a grand. Same part shared with Renault Megane. Used ones are hard to find and are a couple hundred. Could easily fail soon after installation. A slow burn fuse needs to go in, or the same issue is likely.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,237 ✭✭✭Orebro


    You could try a HEVRA garage, there are a few dotted around Ireland: https://hevra.org.uk/garages.html



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,599 ✭✭✭obi604




  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,021 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    I'd look to another form for heating the car, perhaps from the 12v, no way I'd dip that sort of money I to it

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,021 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Just to give you an idea....


    https://www.google.com/search?q=12v+car+heater+amazon&oq=12v+car+heater&aqs=chrome.6.69i57j0i512l7.5701j0j9&client=ms-android-xiaomi&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#scso=_o_vLY777DNCP8gK5jYl4_23:511.6363525390625

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1 8Michaelleaf8


    Hi , I have Nissan Leaf 2011 from Japan imports, any body know what’s wrong I put to charge and after 10sec is stop and write error vehicle problem , I need some mechanic 👨‍🔧 around Dublin



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,123 ✭✭✭sh81722


    That should do the trick, and sure spray the latch as well while at it. It will probably take a while for the hinges to start moving freely if they are badly corroded.

    Once you keep up with this every few months you won't ever have the same issue again.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,005 ✭✭✭jkforde


    hi all

    I'm having charge faults with the Chademo port recently (all ESB ecars EVSEs faulting but ecars support told me that other EVs charged just fine on those chargers the same day that I experienced the faults).

    Windsor dealers in Galway checked the Leaf (2020) today and said everything is normal with the charger electrics (and they seem reputable). I myself noticed that one of the connectors seems dirty but Windsor says it's fine (see attached pic).

    is there any way to 'clean' this connector without being fried, just to satisfy my own potential delusion!


    Post edited by jkforde on

    🌦️ 6.7kwp, 45°, SSW, mid-Galway 🌦️



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,123 ✭✭✭sh81722


    That port is indeed corroded. It may even be beyond saving as it looks like it's heavily pitted. Never heard of this failure before. Can't believe the garage just ran diagnostics and said it was fine.




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,005 ✭✭✭jkforde


    thanks a lot for your opinion, back to Windsor I go!

    🌦️ 6.7kwp, 45°, SSW, mid-Galway 🌦️



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,591 ✭✭✭Laviski


    hopefully you still be in warranty if not find out how much it would cost to fix. I have leaf in the same year and wondering how that much corrosion occurred.

    then look at muxsan or other operators out there to look at installing CCS instead of replacing the chademo.

    https://www.muxsan.com/English/products.html#ccs-upgrade



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,723 ✭✭✭creedp


    I've a 2016 L30 with just over 159k km so almost out of warranty. Leafspy is showing SOH of 71.4% and only 9 bars remaining. Leafspy is also showing the battery having approx 19kwh on a full charge. For some time now, even during recent cold spell I was getting approx 110km on a charge. However on a recent journey of just under 90km I started off with 18.6kwh, used 14.5kwh and had a balance of 1.3 kwh. These figures don't add up, there seems to be up to 3.5kwh missing. Does anyone know if this is just Leafspy being inacurrate or if the 14.5kwh consumption figure is more accurate than the kWh balance figure.

    The other issue I've noticed is that up to very recently an almost full charge required approx 20kw per the EV charger. However over last couple of weeks the same charge is only using just over 16kw. Is there any reason why the battery is taking so much less charge, could it be a faulty charger reading or is it indicative of a battery issue? Is is possible that the GOM and no of bars are overstating the battery SOC?

    I suppose I'm clutching at straws here in wondering if there is any point bringing to a dealer before the magical 160k km figure is reached. The way things are going, with the range dropping so quickly, the car will soon not be able to complete a lot of the journeys I now use it for so it will be back to diesel again for a lot of my journeys



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,005 ✭✭✭jkforde


    very interesting re. CCS upgrade but since I mainly charge at home using type2 on night rate I'm not that keen on taking it out. but thanks for the info anyhow. and since I already brought the issue to their attention before end of warranty (Jan. 31) I would expect them to consider the issue reported before end of warranty. I do have a nagging doubt that they are stringing me out until after Jan. 31, really hope that isn't the case. will raise pure hell if they try to pull that.

    🌦️ 6.7kwp, 45°, SSW, mid-Galway 🌦️



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,119 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    A few things...

    1) Doesn't the warranty kick in at 70% SoH? In that case you are so close to that I'd definitely be logging a claim against warranty and get that process started before you give them any reasons to refuse you based on km's driven. Get the car booked in and the km's recorded before it hits 160k km. Is the warranty 8 years on the battery?

    2) Since its a 2016 L30, did you get the BMS firmware update applied, which gives you back a few bars?

    3) When you are at a low SoC, what does the LeafSpy histogram of cell voltages show you? Are there weak cells? LeafSpy will point them out to you at the bottom of the screen but you need to be at approx <10% SoC for it to show them.

    4) The colder weather (and hence colder battery) recently would be affecting your capacity so that "might" explain some of the reduced range.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,723 ✭✭✭creedp


    I believe so, although I seen reference made to 67% which might equate with the 4th bar dropping. Yes its an 8 year battery warranty so its the kms travelled thats my limiting factor.

    I got the BMS update 3 year ago at least now. From memory, it increased the SOH from something like 87% to 93% but to be honest I didnt notice any real improvement to the range.

    I'll screenshot the leafspy screen next time I hit sub 10% soc, which is all too frequent these days. One thing I have noticed with leafspy is that it completely overreads the SOC at low levels, e.g. when the car reads 10% soc, leafspy reports over 24%, while at the same time indicating only 2kwhs remaining in the battery. So I pretty much ignore the leafspy soc and concentrate on the kwh remaining figure. I can tell you one evening recently when I'm was nearly to 2kms from home and that figure hit 0.7kwh remaining, I got decidedly fidgety. Luckily there's a nice slope leading up to my house so I really babied it the rest of the way home much to the annoyance of a following car .. leafspeed in action.

    I know the cold weather effects range as I was getting a consistent 120kms before the winter set in. However, the range has dropped by up to 10% in recent couple of weeks even though the temperatures have recovered a little. That 90km journey I referred to above was done at 9 degrees while I was easily getting over 100kms during the real cold snap a few weeks back. In reality I've never been happy with the range of the car and have raised it several times when being serviced but the garage fobbed it off saying no issue with battery



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,123 ✭✭✭sh81722


    Make sure the car has following hv battery version:

    Also the 4th capacity bar won't drop until quite a bit below 70% reported SOH so probably too late for you, unfortunately.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,119 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    If I were you I’d book it in now before you go over the km warranty limit. One less battle you have to fight.

    My guess is that you have a faulty cell and it’s dragging the whole pack down. It’ll likely get worse but you need the issue logged before you lose warranty.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,723 ✭✭✭creedp


    That would make sense or at least it would explain the poor battery performance. The only thing I don't understand is why the dealer didn't pick it up during servicing. I'll book it in and see what happens. Thanks for advice



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,723 ✭✭✭creedp




  • Registered Users Posts: 3,643 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    On the LeafSpy, it's reporting the buffer in the percentage iirc, so that's the discrepancy between percentage showed and available kWh.

    Wanna kill a couple of percent? A few fast charges one after the other might do the trick 😂

    Stay Free



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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,723 ✭✭✭creedp


    Hadn't thought of that. It very rarely gets fast charged these days as the range is so poor its only used for short journeys within range and charged almost exclusively at home. Might be worth giving it a blast of a 50kw charger and see what happens



  • Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭RM Ernest


    Watching this with interest and can't add anything useful. My 30kwh leaf has just gone over 161k km. 11th bar went at 156k km. Don't have leaf spy to check the SOH.

    Do you let the battery charge to 100% and give it time to balance the cells?

    I've a 100km round trip commute and still fine for that but the last 2 cold spells really tested it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,723 ✭✭✭creedp


    Yes I charge it regularly to 100% and let it balance as I would use the full range in a day reasonably regularly. Until 2 weeks ago I never failed to crack 100kms on a full charge but on my most recent longer journey I only managed 83kms and was down to 1.3kwh left in battery (approx 10km) even though I kept the speed at an indicated 80kph for the last 40kms. So I had to stop off an a slow charger for a couple of kwh to get me home.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,723 ✭✭✭creedp


    Just went out to check leafspy and I have those battery codes so at least I know its not the BMS update thats causing the problem



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,021 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    From memory the battery could improve with a couple of fast charges when not having them in a while.

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

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  • Registered Users Posts: 610 ✭✭✭mr chips


    I've a nephew who's only learning to drive at the moment. He's been taking a bus to work & back, a distance of nearly 50km. The cost of buying, insuring, taxing and fuelling even something like a 1.0 Yaris is pretty steep for a lad in his early 20s only starting out in his main career, and right now he has just a couple of grand saved towards a car. It wasn't a top priority, but the need for one has just become more pressing with a youngster on the way!

    I'm wondering whether an early Leaf would be a viable option for him - I know it would need to be charged at least once a day to manage his commute, but although he lives in an apartment there are several public chargepoints within 1-1.5km of his home, plus another across the road from his work so hopefully accessing that wouldn't be an issue (haven't yet asked if dedicated work-based charging would be an option). Would a Mk1 Leaf attract as high an insurance premium for a new driver as other hatchbacks seem to? I've spotted one on autotrader for under £5k sterling, and am wondering if the repayments on a credit union loan to cover the gap between that and what he has already saved would essentially be met by the savings on fuel, tax and bus fares (assuming there are no issues with bringing that one into the south from NI).

    The other question I would have is whether the need to charge in full every day would degrade the battery too quickly to make it worthwhile. The ad for the Leaf I was looking at includes a photo of the GOM showing a supposed 91 miles of range, but I imagine that's after a lot of downhill driving ...

    PS apologies if this question belongs in a different thread/subforum - no worries if it needs to be moved.



  • Registered Users Posts: 473 ✭✭Gile_na_gile


    A Leaf or a Zoe would be a viable option if driving is much faster, though if he lives in an apartment and has access to transport anyway then there might be little point. Plus time on a bus or train can be used productively on occasion versus being part of traffic in the driving seat. Charging at public charging points would be a big timesink unless he can charge at work.

    Live close and walk / cycle to work is ideal, otherwise public transport, or if connections are very awkward then EV.



  • Registered Users Posts: 610 ✭✭✭mr chips


    While the public transport option is a lot slower than driving direct would be, he would have been sticking with that a while longer until they found out about the surprise package! It's the impending arrival that has them thinking in terms of needing a car - it would halve his commuting time, giving him about an hour a day more at home with his partner and the new baby, plus it would mean they'd have another transport option for getting to appointments, family etc. So whether or not there's a need for a car isn't really the question here - it's whether a Leaf could actually work for them, plus if anyone can give an informed opinion in terms of likely insurance costs it would be much appreciated.



  • Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭RM Ernest


    Insurance is very person dependant though so they'd need to check with different potential cars. Just use an insurance comparison site to get an idea.

    For what it is worth my insurance was cheaper on an EV than my previous petrol car but I'm not that young anymore.

    I'd caution a cheap low range EV as their only car though as it limits options for longer trips that may crop up.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 610 ✭✭✭mr chips


    Well, it would make life a lot easier for the day to day stuff. If they want to go longer distance then public transport would still be the default. But I'm thinking in terms of the likelihood of a Leaf being easier on the pocket to run versus a Yaris, 207, Clio etc of similar age & mileage, and that for their particular use case it could do the trick better than an ICE.



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