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Chain Maintenance

  • 01-02-2023 1:38pm
    #1
    Moderators, Politics Moderators Posts: 41,230 Mod ✭✭✭✭


    Just wondering, how do you all look after your chains?

    When cleaning, what do you use? How do you dry the chain to prevent any surface rust?

    What lube do you use and how much do you use?

    I tend to use Muc-Off ceramic dry lube usually but in really crappy weather I'll use their wet lube. I tend to apply a drop for every second roller before turning the crank to help spread the lube to the adjacent rollers.

    When washing the bike, I've found myself avoiding the likes of washing up liquid and using something like the Muc-Off bike cleaner. For all I know, this is just like Fairy liquid with a higher price! However, I tend not to use these cleaners on a chain, instead using a chain degreaser e.g. this from Halfords.

    After washing, I wipe the chain dry with some old non-fluffy clothing but I can't help feeling that there might be a better method. I do have a chain washing tool which I occasionally use but the need to make sure it is completely dry brings me back to my feeling that there must be a better way. More often, I'll clean light crap off by spraying the cassette & chain with a load of GT85 and using a cleaning brush.

    Just curious what approach you all follow, I guess.



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,186 ✭✭✭cletus


    I'll give this one a shot, considering I only did it yesterday.

    Normally I use a degreaser on the chain, but just generic degreaser from Lidl, or if I've been to Mr. Price recently, then Elbow Grease. Rinse it with soapy water, dry it off and relube. I use Muc Off dry lube, the one Aldi and Lidl sell on special offer. I used wet lube once, never again.

    If I take the chain off (a rare enough occurrence), then I'd pour some of the same degreaser into a container (roses box from Christmas is ideal), pop the chain in and agitate with a stuff brush.

    Rinse off the chain with water, and dry it. I have an air compressor, so I use the air gun to blow out water from between the links.

    Put the chain back on and relube



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,971 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    The last while I was using the Parktool chain cleaning gizmo and Parktool's own chain cleaner solution. It's awesome. You'd eat your dinner off the chain afterwards. I recently ran out of solution and I got a bottle of Morgan Blue, which I'd heard a lot about over the years, and it too is awesome. Spray on, agitate a bit, leave, wash off. Amazing how much crud it shifts.

    Afterwards I whizz the chain through an aul t-shirt or cloth to dry it, then I lash on a load of light penetrating spray 3in1 style oil, with the presumption that that drives the water out. - Might do that a couple of times, and crank it through a cloth again each time to remove excess oil and water. Then I'll apply a wet/dry lube as appropriate.

    As with all such things. Little and often is the best way rather than letting layers of crud build up. Having said that, I washed my Brompton for the first time in months and months of daily usage and I had let the chain and sprockets get awfully crusty, but the morgan blue brought it up minty fresh and snickering away nicely again.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,531 ✭✭✭hesker


    I don’t use any water based cleaner.

    Put in a closed container with something like diesel or home heating oil and give it a good shake. Leave to sit for a while. Take out and wipe clean with a rag.

    Repeat with a second container of clean diesel.

    Take out and wipe again and leave to dry for a few hours.

    Lubricate with Morgan blue dry wax.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,015 ✭✭✭Paddigol


    I clean my drivetrain pretty regularly so tend to go very easy on the oil/ lubrication. I try to use something that's relatively gentle to avoid a) a guilty conscience and b) running the risk of destroying bearings (although don't know if it makes much difference) - I'm using Decathlon's plant based cleaner (Plant-Based Bike Drivetrain Degreaser - Decathlon) and have to say, combined with the Fenwicks chain cleaning sponge (Chain Cleaning Sponge | Fenwicks Bike) it's as good as any product I've used. The Fenwicks yoke is also better than any of the hand-held plastic chain cleaning devices I've had. Quick, simple and cheap.

    I'll run the chain through a dry cloth after cleaning and rinsing, and then apply a conservative amount of WD40. Allow that to work its way in overnight and then apply a dry lube to the chain.

    I find the whole process very therapeutic and nothing beats the sound of a clean, lubricated drivetrain.


    As @fat bloke says, little and often is best.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,186 ✭✭✭cletus


    WD-40 will work to displace moisture all right, but I prefer GT-85 (it's all about the smell 😀)

    How often would you do that hesker?



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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,879 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i do similar to hesker, but usually petrol or white spirits. on the chain from the winter bike, you'd often see sand in the bottom of the container. maybe twice a year per chain?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,531 ✭✭✭hesker


    Not half as often as I should 😀

    I have a few bikes and rotate them so only do the above when I start to feel embarrassed about the level of gunk. In between it’s clean off with a rag, couple of run throughs with a chain cleaner tool and wipe dry. Then apply the wax. I only recently switched to wax in a bottle and so far so good.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,131 ✭✭✭Bambaata


    I use Rock n Roll Gold and Extreme lube. It cleans and lubes the chain. So after washing the bike or if the chain has been wet i dry it off with a rag, liberally apply, spin a few times and dry off. Great stuff for both cleaning and lubing!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,853 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    This seems preposterous, and I think it maybe only is adequate because my bikes either have a chain case or long mudflaps, but I just run the chain through a baby wipe (the non-plastic type) a few times, dry it with kitchen paper, and then apply a Finish Line lube of some kind. It seems to work just fine. I get a long time out of chains (change based on the 12" measurement rivet to rivet), and have the original chain rings and sprockets on the three bikes I typically use.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,924 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭Takca


    I use "Morgan Blue Chain Cleaner", I apply it to the chain with a small paint brush.

    I try not to be too liberal as its pretty good a dissolving grease fast and I'm pretty sure it would quickly damage any bearings it gets near. Once that's done I rinse, dry with a rag and then apply lube to chain while spinning the crank so a bit hits each link.

    I do this when ever the chain looks like it has too much gunk on it (probably not often enough). Between cleans I reapply lube as I feel its needed



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,924 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass


    BTW you are probably running single speed chains which for lots of reasons (especially if in a bath and used with a front flap) are much more resilient to wear.

    I lube the chain on my fixed bike about once a year. Haven't even measured for wear in about 3 years, works away the finest



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,573 ✭✭✭✭ednwireland


    same as my seven speed . wouldn't dare not have a regular cleaning regime on my 10,11,12 speeds.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,853 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    Two single-speed chains, one eight-speed chain.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,185 ✭✭✭G1032


    This looks interesting. Never heard of it before. A quick Google would suggest it's expensive. Where do you buy it?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    I use a Park Tool chain cleaning thingy. I use an engine degreaser from the local motor factors - only €25 for 5 litres - lasts years and the chain comes up like brand new. I lube every roller as it's very unlikely that enough will transfer from one roller to another and make it's way down between the roller and the pin. Once every so often I'll remove the cassette and clean with the engine degreaser. The only thing with engine degreaser is that you need to be vigilant about keeping it away from anywhere that houses a bearing as it will remove grease almost instantly.

    I wash the bike with a bit of Fairy Liquid in a basin of warm water using cheap SuperValu sponges that cost less than €1 for five. I use cheap dish cloths for harder to reach areas. I've set of bike specific brushes for removing crud from in between rim brake calipers and for cleaning the cassette.

    I generally clean a bike once a week so I find using bike specific cleaners/degreasers to be very expensive - MucOff 750ml degreaser is €25 - same price as 5 litres of engine degreaser. Thankfully I can safely dispose of the degreaser in work.

    EDIT: The local motor factor is also a good place to buy a bag of rags - pieces of clothing cut to cloth/rag sizes. There'll be a couple of hundred in a bag for a reasonable price.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 25,038 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    Place chain in half liter plastic milk carton, quarter fill with kerosene and shake vigorously. Remove and dry off excess with rag.

    (I can't understand why people would use water to clean a chain).


    EDIT - should have said 1 liter carton (not half liter)

    Post edited by Wishbone Ash on


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,879 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    half liter plastic milk carton

    i find the 2L plastic bottles white spirits come in to be the job - the mouth is just about wide enough to get the chain back out.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,186 ✭✭✭cletus


    Why not? It's used to clean lots of other things. It's a good solvent in and of itself, and once you remove water from the chain afterwards, there's no issue.

    I use clean water to rinse the chain after cleaning. I've used kerosene to clean car wheel bearings before, but I prefer to use a water based degreaser, so I'm not concerned about spilling it, storing it in containers, disposal etc.

    Post edited by cletus on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,924 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass


    I used that Extreme Rock n Roll for a few years, it was brilliant. Very clean, super durable etc. Best and most faff free product I ever used.

    Originally you couldn't get it shipped by air due to solvent in product but they changed formula; then it was worse than useless.

    Maybe I got the first batch and it's improved since. I'd say I bought it last in 2017/2018 or so



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 25,038 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    It may be used to clean lots of other things but usually not oily things. I'd hardly describe it as a solvent. Try cleaning a paint brush that has been used for hard gloss with water.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,531 ✭✭✭hesker



    Every solvent has its sphere of application and its properties can be modified by mixing with other materials such as a degreaser or other solvents. You wouldn’t use mineral spirits to remove water based paint from a paintbrush for example.

    If I didn’t have home heating oil to hand I’d probably use Cletus method. I’m only wondering about the disposal method which is worth checking up on.

    Edit: after a quick check it seems used degreaser should be collected and disposed of in a similar way to other household hazardous waste at a proper facility.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,309 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    I use this stuff...along with a brush and plenty of "Elbow Grease".

    On my commuter bike i clean it every week..only take a few minutes.


    https://www.halfords.ie/cycling/bike-maintenance/bike-cleaning/bikehut-citrus-degreaser---1-litre-164313.html



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,365 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    My chain cleaning is as follows:

    Do it half as much as I should, spray on degreaser, agitate with my stiff cassette brush, rinse off, spray with bike cleaner, fill worn out chain cleaning tool with bike cleaner, run several more times with water. Dry with cloth, apply lube, crank pedals/gears a few times, dry excess.

    Only started using degreaser 4-5 years ago. It blew my mind that the grease literally rinsed off as it was being sprayed on. All those years of elbow grease when using standard bike cleaner on the drivetrain even with a chain cleaning tool...



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,556 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Water seems to move some for me, even with a hose. I normally use one of those chain cleaner yolks, and then every few weeks a deeper clean with GT85. I also have that fenwicks sponge, although mine falling to bits at this stage. Old toothbrushes and/ or a lidl cleaning set. I use Dealz "no more dirty bikes" but I'd use washing up liquid if I didn't have it.

    Think my current wet lube is a zefal ceramic (and my dry lube). I'm probably not as fussy as I should be - they were probably the cheapest at the time!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,186 ✭✭✭cletus


    Water is absolutely a solvent. But as I said, I use it mostly to remove the (water based) solvents I use to clean the chain. I use water based degreasers because I don't want to have to store up used kerosene/diesel/whatever in a container, then make a trip to the recycling centre to have to dispose of it.


    I suppose I'm just not sure why you can't understand people using water to clean a chain



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,015 ✭✭✭Paddigol


    Am I the only one who finds that as long as you keep your drivetrain clean, which lube/ oil you use and how much you apply is almost irrelevant? I couldn't bring myself (a non-racer) to spend big money on the fancy top-end lubes etc. The cynic in me thinks most of it is just marketing guff.

    Once you have a regular routine, it's a pretty quick and easy job to get chain and cassette sparkling. Yet to be convinced by the Wax Mafia (they haven't gone away you know)...



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,523 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Wet Lube is a pain in the arse to be honest, it gunks up to much, I'd sooner throw fresh sunflower oil over it each time than use wet lube. I use dry lube, mixed wax or wax for my race bike although I haven't been arsed in a few months. I'd agree that the performance gains are so marginal that it is not worth it but the decrease in cleaning time and gunk in the system is. So it does matter but once you are not using wet lube, not that much. GT85 if you don't care about the cost or environment is great.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,186 ✭✭✭cletus


    I've been thinking about this recently. GT85 claims environmentally friendly due to being CFC free, but I wonder if that's the only factor. Can anyone shed any further light?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,131 ✭✭✭Bambaata




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,015 ✭✭✭Paddigol


    Yeah, I find using WD40 on a nice clean chain on my CX bike works perfectly given the short timeframe of a race/ practice and the fact that I'll be stripping everything off the chain straight after the race. Can't bring myself to waste time/ $$$ on applying lube to each link for the sake of a couple of hours use.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,971 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    Cleans and lubes at the same time? Hmmm. Not sure I buy that now. I hope my gastroenterologist doesn't either....



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,879 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    take two bottles into the shower?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,186 ✭✭✭cletus




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 248 ✭✭vintcerf


    Interesting thread. Zero Friction Cycling has done extensive research on this and recommends mineral turpentine followed by methylated spirits to clean chains since some solvents like petrol and diesel clean ok but leave a much heavier film behind for part 2 (methylated spirits) to deal with. (petrol / diesel) and some solvents may cause corrosion stress cracking / hydrogen embrittlement if soaked too long. 

    Guide is here for those interested.

    Silca on HYDROGEN EMBRITTLEMENT article here



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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,523 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I'm skeptical about the hydrogen embrittlement with the pH of most cleaners not being that extreme unless your putting household cleaners directly onto exposed metal. Certainly not an issue with any organic solvents in the way they are used for chain cleaning.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,879 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    also, how quick would the reaction described happen? if you ran your chain through a chain bath cleaner with degreaser for a minute or two and rinsed it off, would that be sufficient time to cause damage?



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,523 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I think you'd really need to be going through a strong acid for it to happen quickly. Anything you can safely out your hands in for a few minutes wouldn't really concern me. Also, whose washing chains in strong acids. Most of the solvents here aren't an issue or cars and bikes would be falling apart left, right and centre.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    For me it's now all about regularity, time and convenience which means using whatever I can get in Aldi (living in the sticks). So mostly it's bike upside down, turn crank running chain through dry cloth or old clothes, squeeze mucoff dry lube bottle while rotating crank, wait a few minutes and wipe excess off with a cloth.

    Like others decided the dry lube better than the wet. Occasionally use GT85

    Got a new bike recently and did nothing with the chain for several cycles. It was only a couple of months later when I heard a squeak that I got into the regular cleaning routine.

    What sort of magic do new chains come with ?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 248 ✭✭vintcerf


    most guides online seem to suggest that factory lube/grease that comes on new chains should be cleaned off before use.

    TLDR;

    "Factory grease is a) pretty slow, b) gathers contamination rapidly and thus quickly becomes much slower again and much higher wear, and c) most top lubricants do not mix at all with factory grease (or dispel them). " - velonews.com

    Refs

    1. New chain grease - strip and lube or leave it? - TrainerRoad forum
    2. Technical FAQ: Should you leave the factory lube on a new chain? - Velonews
    3. Should You Strip The Factory Lube From Your Bike Chain Before Riding? | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech - YouTube


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Can only say that from recent experience whatever came out of the factory was great. Only thing chain needed for the first couple of months was a wipe. I'd magic the same stuff on again if I could.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,523 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    It is technically slower but in reality, wait for it, few here, if any, will notice the difference.

    In as scientific a post as in the trainer road forum, ie, just my opinion. It will be the easiest time to clean your chain, when it's straight of the bag. I've done both, left it on and taken it off. Can't say I've had an issue with the factory stuff being sticky or picking up dirt more than any other pour on dry lube and it makes not a sound. I'm in two minds about leaving it on the next time, probably will for my commuter out of laziness and the realisation that it's fine for awhile.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    My factory chain didn't pick up much dirt and regarding losing a couple of watts it pales into insignificance compared to the 45mm knobbly tyres that came with the bike (gravel bike)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 248 ✭✭vintcerf


    I personally feel most of the stuff in the cycling industry has little to no science backing and that it's all about what works best for you especially as an average cyclist/non pro.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,872 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    Install chain with factory lube , ride it until it needs cleaning then clean as required.

    I always replace at 75% so don’t get overly bothered about exact cleaning routines.



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