Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

External with Internal insulation

Options
2

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,837 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    I'm not suggesting insulating the roof at rafter level and turning it into a warm attic here but rather continuing insulation up the gable walls / stacks 1000mm above the attic insulation. This detail will go a long way to eliminating the tb.



  • Registered Users Posts: 33,981 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Ya I know what your suggesting but it was a waste of my valuable time doing that for two reasons the walls weren't great in the rooms so we're being plastered anyway. And I want to make a warm attic in future. So not messing around throwing warm boards on a wall up there through a small attic access. Plenty of other work to get on with.

    The value was better spent in this case lining inside the living envelope for this use case.

    Membranes next which will open opportunities for the attic and also solar install.


    :)



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Correct.

    But there should be a massive caveat around the word "properly": the Irish construction industry has an abysmal track record around doing things properly, as can be seen from the pyrite scandal, mica scandal, the fire safety scandal (which between them account for probably 10% of all homes in the country). And that's entirely ignoring the god knows how many homes affected by defects which relate to non structural or safety issues: like air tightness, ventilation, insulation, water/damp-proofing.

    I would suggest that the choice for any works should be less what is "best", and more what will fail better if it's done say two thirds right as opposed to "properly". And the choice should be made in the context of initial cost, and repair/reinstatement cost if necessary.

    Because works specified & performed "properly" are unfortunately the exception rather than the rule. And anyway, "properly" by today's standards will almost certainly fall far short of tomorrow's standards, so retrofitting/renovation/rebuilding will (in time) be required anyway.

    Remember that even a "properly" built home of 2003 would be an appalling build quality in 2023 in terms of insulation & ventilation. And 20 years is not such a long time: for example your child born this morning will probably still living at home in 25-30 years time...



  • Registered Users Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    You forgot to include a FEW Very important factors which must also be consider by Homeowners when deciding on where to fit insulation on an external walls.

    1. €€€€€€ Cost of external wall insulation verses the cost of internal wall insulation. This is very easy to calculate. This is very important to all homeowners
    2. EWI must be completed in 1 operation and paid for immediately
    3. Uninsulated Cavities must be filled if EWI is to be applied. This is another approx €3,500 Cost of EWI
    4. Internal Wall Insulation can be carried out in stages, over time, to suit the homeowners budget
    5. Is the external plaster / finish in a perfect condition
    6. Can the EWI be continued below DPC
    7. Can the EWI be continued up to insulated the entire wall / heads above all window and door opes, above the soffit and must be connected to the Attic Insulation (I understand that must EWI salespeople (Trotters Independent Trading) don’t bother doing this)
    8. With EWI - Cost of moving all windows and external door frames out to the EWI, and necessary internal repair works to all reveals and soffits of all opes (I understand that must EWI salespeople (Trotters Independent Trading) don’t bother doing this)
    9. Is the internal plaster finish in perfect condition
    10. Does the house need to be renovated and re plastered internally
    11. Does the house need to be re plastered externally
    12. Will the EWI diminish the narrow soffit, and alter the original character of the house
    13. In Semi Detached houses the solid concrete block Party wall will constitute a Cold Bridge, and will therefore need to be insulated. This is another cost on EWI.
    14. I would not recommend EWI to old very damp, very thick stone walls of very old houses. (bearing in mind that walls cannot breathe - and contain rising dampness- which must be allowed to evaporate to the external atmosphere).
    15. Etc etc
    16. People here are giving their preferences in relation to EWI -v- IWI to OP’s.
    17. Every home is different and must be critically analysed by an experienced Construction Professional, before deciding on a course of action - to be explained in detail to to Homeowners, who will make the final educated decision.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,941 ✭✭✭Marty Bird


    Hi Mick,

    Our house already has internal insulated plasterboard now a number of years on all internal exterior walls , we’re thinking of getting the external wrap would this be a waste of money in your opinion?

    🌞6.02kWp⚡️3.01kWp South/East⚡️3.01kWp West



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 2,837 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    Thinking logically. Your walls are already insulated. You are considering the external wrap. Why? Likely because your heat loss is still bad. Therefore, your heat loss is more than likely not by conduction through your walls and therefore adding external insulation will do little, if anything at all, to your heat loss issue.

    Your heat loss is likely caused by convection losses (i.e. air leakage or draughts). EWI does not address this generally and you need to find the primary leakage issues and address these. The solution is unlikely to involve adding more insulation layers.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,941 ✭✭✭Marty Bird


    Thanks Mick what would you recommend in terms of survey to see were the problems are ?

    🌞6.02kWp⚡️3.01kWp South/East⚡️3.01kWp West



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,837 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    Get an independent heat loss survey done which covers not just your heat loss issues but also addresses appropriate ventilation. Make sure you're home during it so you see for yourself what's happening and get appropriate & realistic advice on how to address the various issues found. Independent in the sense that the surveyor is not affiliated to any other business selling insulation, ventilation systems, heat pumps etc.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,941 ✭✭✭Marty Bird


    🌞6.02kWp⚡️3.01kWp South/East⚡️3.01kWp West



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,049 ✭✭✭gooner99


    7+8 - I've not seen this done yet. So most contractors must be in this Delboy group. Have you experienced it being done properly?



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 1,059 ✭✭✭TimHorton


    @MicktheMan is always saying that EWI needs to start 600mm below the internal finished floor level and extend through the soffit and meet the attic insulation. I have seen several houses getting EWI done and ALL of them simply go from the path to the soffit, There is a vlogger on Youtube who uploads regularly EWI Installs and he simply goes from path to soffit https://www.youtube.com/@externalwallinsulationsyst8648/videos By only doing the bare minimum you would imagine a huge performance gap exists. On the other hand here is a guy in Waterford who runs insulation/airtightness courses showing what he expects. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7Jh9mnx4Ho&t=9s




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,049 ✭✭✭gooner99



    Thanks for the replies.

    So in reality at present there is somewhere between 1 and 10% chance of getting the job done below plinth and above soffit in a retrofit scenario, unless you do the work yourself?

    Assuming you've a) already filled the cavity (in my case loose white bead), b) the cavity is very narrow (in my case 50mm), c) were fully gutting the inside of the house anyway, d) could live with losing a few inches from the rooms. Would you be better to insulate on the inside instead of this "standard/poor" external approach?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,512 ✭✭✭hesker


    If you search through that vloggers videos you will find one where he insulates up to the wall plate. So you can’t be sure who made the decision.

    I wish the SEAI would insist on certain standards and inspect for adherence.


    Edit: I checked SEAI and they do issue a specification.


    I extracted this bit.


    So installers I gather must adhere to SEAI standards and specs. We can always waive this document at them at install time. Which parts are optional and which mandatory are possibly open to debate. The wording is uncomfortaby vague.

    Post edited by hesker on


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,059 ✭✭✭TimHorton


    One out of lots ! - Possibly/Probably a well-informed homeowner.



  • Registered Users Posts: 33,981 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Just me so. I did mine Wall plate to below ground and brought out all window opes into insulation layer.

    Window installers seemed confused. But when explained they were like ah I see.

    Its ireland,everything's bare minimum....



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,512 ✭✭✭hesker


    Were the windows installed before or after insulation was fitted. If before, how were they supported. Was it just using the straps tied back to wall surrounds. I see at least one company offering an insulated support that can be bolted to the wall for the window to sit on.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,837 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    And this is the problem with grants imo because the average Joe / Mary Homeowner will trust the SEAI REGISTERED contractor to do a correct job and not take short cuts. It takes the well informed homeowner to insist on the tb reducing detail and likely making the job of finding a good contractor more difficult. I remember back in 2010 when I was looking for the correct installer that it took me the guts of 4 years to find him and in that time I lost count of the many so called insulation experts I had look at the job.

    I think it's an utter disgrace that the SEAI are knowingly allowing this shoddy work be grant aided with my money.



  • Registered Users Posts: 33,981 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    After, I boxed the Opes out 100mm into the 200 mm insulation layer.

    Nice deep window internal sills now though :)



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,512 ✭✭✭hesker




  • Registered Users Posts: 33,981 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    18mm minimum Plywood marine grade. Never use OSB for this purpose. It has no business being used for this.OSB is great but not for structural use.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 1,512 ✭✭✭hesker


    And did you apply any kind of a seal between the ply and the wall in case any moisture might get in there



  • Registered Users Posts: 33,981 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    The ply was sealed with sika, but then has a bitumen wrapped tape applied all over it. Had to keep the tape a bit warmer on a rad as weather was cold . Abysmal to work with when cold.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,059 ✭✭✭TimHorton


    What chance have people got - Here is Anpost (State Owned)showcasing the wrong way to do it..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aptnRet7l-E




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,049 ✭✭✭gooner99


    When my mother got her house done last year as part of the seai scheme you had to take what was on offer. In the words of the guy that carried out the initial inspection "if you don't agree to any of the proposed works, then they will cancel all aspects of the upgrade". So I get the feeling that if you were to insist on them digging up footpaths and removing soffits, there would be a stop put on the works or the insistence that you shut up and put up. I had intended to either tackle them or ask them if I could organize the prep works (dig paths and remove soffits). But as my mum wasn't keeping well at that time, I just let it go to get them in and out as soon as possible to avoid too much stress for her. So alas I will never know if they would have played ball. But my gut felling would be that I would have been told to go away, as these guys flew through the work, never taking more than a 10 minute break. 5 days total to do a small 3 bed bungalow.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,049 ✭✭✭gooner99


    4 years to find an installer to do it properly. What chance has any of us got. You'd need to be very lucky and live close to the small number of contractors offering this. Throw in the seai wording which is really only outlining best practice and not any sort of rules.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,512 ✭✭✭hesker


    I had discussions with them all and got verbal agreement that if I dug up paths and removed soffitts they would insulate. Impossible to get this in writing though.

    So I have chosen someone and placed a sizeable deposit with the quote saying work is to be done to SEAI standards. I’m expecting a real fight when it comes down to it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,512 ✭✭✭hesker


    Thanks for all the answers. Now that I think of it your method is same as one I have used on a timber frame outdoor room with cladding and a ventilated cavity. Minus the EWI obviously but very similar otherwise.

    In my case the EWI installer is insisting on the windows being installed first so it doesn’t look easy for me to push the windows into the insulation layer.



  • Registered Users Posts: 33,981 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Yes I had installed windows first by window company . So they were on. But I was also the ewi installer too. So then wrapped after. I only got a plasterer to finish. As I've zero faith in my skills in that dark art.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,250 ✭✭✭monseiur


    This is a very interesting discussion. I was in the USA just before Christmas and by chance I watched a TV programme on different insulation's being used in dwelling houses. To cut a long story short one expert basically suggested that the current insulations being used will become the 'asbestos' of the future. As it ages & degrades over time it releases certain chemicals/gases ? that are very harmful to the human respiratory system. Various chemicals were mentioned especially isocyanatess (not sure of correct spelling) This may very well be just scaremongering by vested interests, but it was suggested that within 20 years all houses with these so called harmful insulations will have to ripped apart and all the insulation removed hence the reference to asbestos. If there's an iota of truth in it perhaps external insulation is the way to go ?



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 1,512 ✭✭✭hesker


    I would have gone the same route as you too but I’m caught with needing to do one gable from my neighbour’s property and couldn’t get insurance to cover me and eliminate risk of claim on them.



Advertisement