Tubeless road - it actually works

Correct. Mine went from about 80psi down to maybe 55 over the course of 6 days or so. I pumped them up to about 70-75psi before a long spin yesterday and they don't appear to have gone down much (at least according to the highly scientific squeeze of the thumb test). As soon as they're seated initially, you shouldn't need anything other that a normal track pump. I managed to seat mine using just a pump - I didn't need to resort to a compressor

I ended up getting a pair Hutchinson Fusions in a bundle from Sigma Sports in July 2021. Only fit one as the original front tyre still had (has) some life in it. June/July of this year I started noticing strange bubbles on the tread:

I contacted Sigma Sports who told me to send it back for assessment. They decided it was a defect and refunded me the price of the tyre.

The bubbles stayed inflated even when I took the tyre off, but had deflated fully by the next morning. I'll have to wait see if the second tyre develops a similar issue.

Pleased with the Sigma Sports customer support, but I think I'll try a different tyre next time 🙂

Is it really from over pressure? That’s interesting!

We’ve discussed it in a previous thread ( I think we both bought the same Mavic Ksyrium bundle). I had the same issue with a couple of different Mavic tyres, always on the back wheel. But it never happened with any other brand of tyre.

Any suggestions for tubeless repair kits?

I'm on dynaplug. used twice, seem to work.

Anyway recently rejoined the tubeless road club. panaracer slick tlc 38. with tanwall for bonus points. serious battle fitting em, but worth it now that they are fully sealed. Fantastic ride quality. running 45 psi front, 50 rear. Ill report back when I get a proper dry spin in.

I'm not sure if I could recommend the panaracer for that, as the amount of tread seems small. But I'm careful to not lockup, and I've had to do 2 emergency stops on these already. In a really hard stop you need to use more front due to weight transfer. I think I generally use more front than a lot of road cyclists.

I think it would be better to look at braking technique as the only tyres hard enough to tolerate much skidding are likely to have hard compound and not much grip.

When you're off the front you don't usually need to brake 😁

The last binned tyre was the finish of the first stage in Charleville last September. Hard braking followed by release and pull to right to avoid bodies on the ground. Stayed upright but it cost the tyre.

The 5000 TR has great grip. The main reason for racing with tubeless wouldn't be watt savings but reducing punctures. Guys generally don't call potholes in races and pinch flats when running tubes can be a regular enough occurrence

Apologies as I'm sure this has probably been discussed already in the thread, but trying to find out with the now useless search tool on here, and I'm not going to reread 20 pages!

What are the thoughts re topping up sealant vs. taking the tyres off and cleaning out all the gunk first? I presume strictly speaking the latter is the best way to go, but I've not done it since going tubeless last April, just topped up the sealant. My thinking is I'll probably do it in a few months time when I'd be due the next top up, them maybe settle into once a year, or when the tyre needs changed.

The tubeless setup has worked very well. Tempting fate, but I've had no flats in the past 9 months. That said, I have been on the road less than I would have been in previous years from being in the office a fair bit less, and family stuff meaning I've spent a fair amount on the turbo instead over the past few months, but still, happy with it.

I just top up every six months - the tire either wears out or you get a puncture that doesn't seal and it needs replacing that way before you will have topped up 3 or 4 times

No I get a few thousand km out of them but the sealant does dry up. Rather than removing the tire, cleaning and removing dried sealant, reseating etc every 6 months, I just add in more sealant and then when the time does come to replace the tire, I do a proper clean

I'm looking at taking the plunge and going tubeless. Can someone who runs them honestly tell me. Have you ever been stranded? Puncture that just wouldn't seal etc...

Anyone have much experience with using any of the repair kits for a hole which won't seal?

Local shop has dynaplug and stans dart. Lad in the shop wasn't sure if the stans dart would only work well with stans sealant or if it is ok to use with others.

They don't have the muc-off one

I'd give the sealant a try

Tried a different valve but it went down even quicker. Went back to the original valve , refitted and this time it held pressure overnight.

So good to go now adding sealant through the valves. I reckon if you can get a good seal to start with then you're less likely to have to be pumping before each cycle and the sealant you put in will be more likely to be sloshing around rather than plugging installation gaps