The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

The GMan · 16-02-2023 12:54pm

Found this for a manual for a “Seco AJ-102”, which looks very similar to my AMA SG 12-102H

That spring to the tensioner arm has definitely got to come off.

But I’m still back where I started, i.e. HOW do I get it off.

With limited access have no way to get enough leverage on it to shift it. 😢😢

deezell · 16-02-2023 1:42pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120248052#Comment_120248052

The deck belt tensioner spring? Apologies, I've been barking up the wrong tree, I thought you were trying to remove that big deck counterbalance spring in the picture. First question, is this an electric clutch machine, or is it a manual lever engaged deck? If it's manual, there should be little tension on that spring until you pull he lever. If its electric, then the opposite end of that spring should be hooked into an adjustable tensioning bolt, which should be visible once you remove the grass chute. In a manual clutch the other end of the spring would be connected to a bowden cable at the chute entry on the deck. Loosening this or the retaining adjuster in the case of an electric clutch should allow the spring to be slackened, and gripped and unhooked. It sometimes helps to prop the front wheels in order to maximise the deck drop and get a clearer look in. Also, if you uncouple the deck from its mountings, this should be sufficient to slacken the belt and peel it off the front pulley, whether it's manual or electric clutch driven. Levering the tension pulley forward also to allow the belt free from the left blade pulley and the tensioner pulley will allow the tensioner spring to retract fully, and make it easier to unhook. Skint knuckle time!

mrmeindl · 16-02-2023 5:50pm

Thoughts on this 2014 viking 42'' with new deck for 2600? It'll come with some sort of 6 month warranty, it's local to me so convenient in terms of service etc?

The GMan · 16-02-2023 5:59pm

There is a switch beside the steering wheel to engage the blades, which I assume makes it an "electric clutch".

However, the belt tensioner spring is attached from a metal hole the tensioner arm to a metal hole in the lifter cross member, no adjusting mech, no cables.

I have the deck propped up and I'll see if I can free the deck belt from the tensioner pulley easily to reduce the spring tension further, but I'd prefer not to do too much messing with the deck if I don't have to.

I'll probably get a spring puller of some sort and try again Sat morning ... my weekend project 😐️ 😀

deezell · 16-02-2023 8:57pm

You only need to rotate the belt tensioner pulley away from the belt, use a vice grips on the pulley arm, or attach a piece of wire or rope, then lift the slack belt off the pulley. When you release the pulley from whatever used to turn it, it will go right back without the belt to restrain it, and the spring will be slack and easily unhooked. You won't remove the spring until you pull the belt off one of the pulleys.

deezell · 16-02-2023 9:48pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120249458#Comment_120249458

Price seems excessive for a 9 year old machine, 9 year residual would be 35% of new with normal wear and tear, and if it used up a deck, then it wasn't sitting in a garage doing nothing for nine years. €2600 is the kind of money I'd expect pay for a €7500 machine at 9 years. I'd see the new deck not as a bonus, but as an admission that the rest of the machine was worked or exposed to the same extent that the deck was past repair.This machine was probably less than €4k new, worth €1400, maybe €1600 with the warranty.

Here's a practically new 2022 Stihl version from last year that done 5 cuts for €4000, that's a drop of 20% of list new price for a fraction of a season. https://www.donedeal.ie/gardenequipment-for-sale/stihl-ride-on-/32018752 First full year depreciation is generally 20% off new, so this is actually a good deal. Its certainly worth more than the the €1400 difference asked for the 9 year old.

Edit. Heres the same machine only 5 years old, immaculate, in Tyrone. €2250. https://www.donedeal.ie/gardenequipment-for-sale/ride-on-lawn-mower/33328578

Needles73 · 16-02-2023 10:25pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120249458#Comment_120249458

They were around €3600 new in 2014/5. So yeah a bit expensive.

mrmeindl · 17-02-2023 10:29am

Thanks deezell & needles I think I'll keep looking!

deezell · 17-02-2023 11:00am

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120251731#Comment_120251731

I would drive to Tyrone for this one, it's a beauty.

eyJidWNrZXQiOiJkb25lZGVhbC5pZS1waG90b3MiLCJlZGl0cyI6eyJ0b0Zvcm1hdCI6ImpwZWciLCJyZXNpemUiOnsiZml0IjoiaW5zaWRlIiwid2lkdGgiOjEyMDAsImhlaWdodCI6MTIwMH19LCJrZXkiOiJwaG90b18yNDcyMjE1NzgifQ==.jpeg

Hire a transit van and bring it back, Offer them the 2000 in €. It would still cost you less than the 9 year old. I drove from Kildare to Listowel for a 49" 6127. Hired a low trailer in Limerick.

The Continental Op · 18-02-2023 10:39pm

This isn't strictly about mowers but is a nice comparison of Honda V B&S V Cheap Chinese engines.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtUtORbNLsA

The featured Honda GX200 and its copies is a very common engine small power equipment. I have a very cheap clone on a wood chipper and the genuine item on a 2 inch water pump. Needless to say there is a cheap chinese version of nearly every honda engine.

redseat1 · 22-02-2023 10:53am

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120222585#Comment_120222585

Thanks for all that, I messaged the DoneDeal sellers so will see what happens...

The Continental Op · 22-02-2023 1:23pm

If anyone needs one Lidl have their powered push mower back in €200. I've found them perfectly good and easy to start. Not for a huge garden although without the box I've cut over an acre with one. I use one mainly to get the bits that I can't get with a ride on.

https://www.lidl.ie/p/gorgeous-gardens/petrol-lawnmower/p24351

tombrown · 25-02-2023 11:34am

Seems i return to this thread, every year, about this time to get advice as I try to get my ride on mower (Castelgarden TCR102 Hydro 2005) up & running for the year.

Due to soem issues I had last year I stripped & cleaned the carburetor last week, and that seemed to be OK. I also took out the petrol tank to clear out a few bits of debris that I suspected were occasionally blocking the fuel outlet - to get ti out I had to unplug a couple of the connectors on the circuit board just above it, but it was relatively simple.

Anyway, last nigth i charged up the battery, put it back in this morning, and when I tried to star the engine, just got a load of clicks coming from the circuit board area and a few of the LEDs comoning on & off (no mechanical movement at all). I've double checked all the connections and it seems OK. I can get a replacement circuit board, but before I spend €80 on it I wanted to see if anyone on hear thinks that is the right path to go?

To make matters worse, I got a new car at the end of last year and am still waiting for a hitch to be fitted, so I have no easy way of gettignthe mower to a repair shop, so ideally need to sort this at home

Thanks, in advance, for any advice

The Continental Op · 25-02-2023 12:40pm

I think I'd take a look at the starter motor itself first? I've had them stuck so you get a relay click but nothing happens at the starter motor. If you can remove it and check it moves OK.

Another issue can be the starter motor cog stuck on the cog ring on the engine. Taking off as much housing as needed and turning the engine with a socket on the flywheel nut sorts that. Thats unlikely as you hear a lot more noise if its stuck at that point.

If there is a solenoid (sometimes built into the starter) then you can risk shorting it out (its just a relay switching a high current to the starter motor) then you can see if it works. More safely you can test it with a meter :-)

deezell · 25-02-2023 1:25pm

It's starter not getting enough power, bad connection or the battery is knackered. If the voltage drops sufficiently under the starter load so that it extinguishes the panel lamps, then either the battery is bad, you didn't reconnect it fully, or one of the battery cables has a poor joint. Check Live from battery to it first terminal, where smaller live cables are tapped off for the circuit board. This live can go directly to the solenoid if it one. Check the negative line to the mower chassis. A multimeter is your friend, to see where the battery 12v is disappearing.

tombrown · 25-02-2023 4:03pm

Thanks, I'll try those suggestions.

If it is a bad battery then it should jump start, right?

deezell · 25-02-2023 4:07pm

Yes, but double check the terminals on the battery, if they're a flat plate terminal it has to be clean metal tight to the lead terminal.

tombrown · 25-02-2023 4:33pm

Right - I took out the battery, tested it (13v with no load), cleaned up the terminals and then reconnected. Had the battery sitting out of its a compartment while I tried it out, as it is a pain to get in & out.

Anyway, tried it this time & sure enough the engine started to turn over, however the battery terminals immediately went red hot & the plastic on the wires started smoking. So I stopped

Any suggestions for next steps ? :)

deezell · 25-02-2023 5:18pm

Try recrimping where the wire enters the terminal. There's corrosion inside the crimp on the copper and the inside of the terminal. Ideally you need to cut back the cable to clean wire and crimp on new terminals. If you have solder and a strong iron you could try to get some inside the crimp, but once battery terminal verdigris gets inside the terminal crimp you'll keep getting bad contact until you strip back and crimp new terminals. Plenty of time to get a pair from nearest autoparts.

tombrown · 25-02-2023 6:21pm

Excellent - thanks. The battery terminals are fairly corroded - i'll clean them up at the same time.

To crimp the terminals, is that something I can do with pliers, or will I need to get them soldered?

deezell · 25-02-2023 6:29pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120287908#Comment_120287908

You could use a pliers, it might do enough, the problem will be the stripped ends of the cables inside the crimp, they're likely all black and coated, so no amount of crimping will give a clean metal to metal contact. Same with solder, it won't stick to black coated copper. Check the slack on the cables, there may not be enough to cut back too much and crimp. Bad battery terminal crimps are a curse, they'll drop 4 or 5 volts, get hot, leave little for the starter.

tombrown · 25-02-2023 6:46pm

Plenty of slack in the cables - I'll strip them back. So long as I can crimp the terminals using pliers, and not have to solder them I'll be fine. I am useless with solder :)

tombrown · 28-02-2023 8:04pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120287648#Comment_120287648

So I stripped back the wires, crimped on new connectors and tried to start. No red hot terminals now, so thats a positive step, engine starting to turnover - another good one. But it only turns over slowly, not enough to start. I've put the battery back on the charger and will try again tomorrow.

At least am heading in the right direction

tombrown · 01-03-2023 7:18pm

Help needed again, I'm afraid

The battery issue is sorted - the engine turns over nicely now when I try to start it. But it turns & turns & turns and just doesn't catch. It'll keep turning for 2-3 minutes, then the turnover slows and I need to charge the battery again. I've tried two different spark plugs (both brand new).

Remember I took out & cleaned the carburetor - is it possible I have screwed something up when I did that? Any idea what or if there is something else I need to look at?

deezell · 01-03-2023 7:37pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120302489#Comment_120302489

Did you reconnect throttle and choke cables on the carb. Did you properly install the float valve in the carburettor if you opened this. Is fuel getting through the fuel line up to the carb. Did you open the fuel valve from the tank if fitted. Did you check for a spark at the plug gaps (connect a spare plug and press it to the cylinder to ground. You should have a visible spark when turning over.

tombrown · 01-03-2023 8:33pm

Thanks - I'll try your suggestions. I am pretty sure I reconnected all the appropriate cables to the carb and fuel lines are OK, but will check it all again.

One thing - not sure what you mean by "connect a spare plug and press it to the cylinder to ground" - can you clarify for the uneducated? :)

deezell · 01-03-2023 8:40pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120302738#Comment_120302738

To check that there is a spark in the plug when you turnover an engine, you remove the lead from one of the spark plugs in the engine, and plug it onto a spare plug. Place this in contact with the cylinder head or any convenient metal part of the engine. Turn the engine over while looking at the gap end of the plug, the bit that's normally inside in the engine, and you should see a clearly visible spark jump the gap.

tombrown · 02-03-2023 6:35pm

Plug sparks fine (tested as you suggested)

Fuel line to carb is OK (disconnected from carb, opened in line tap & fuel flowed)

Throttle & choke cables seem OK - see 3 photos (2 - slow throttle, 1 - full throttle, 3 - choke open)

So it looks like I need to take the carb off again & make sure I didn't make any mistakes when I put it back together last time (float etc).

Anything else I should be looking at?

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

The Continental Op · 02-03-2023 6:45pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120306505#Comment_120306505

Anything else I should be looking at?

Why you posted three of the same jpegs?

Try seeing if there is any fuel in the float chamber. Just undo the bolt at the bottom of it and it should come off and be full of fuel and then drip (pour) fuel from the needle valve. Then take the float off, side out the pin in the hinge (normally?) the needle should come out fixed to the float, then clean the tip of the float needle and I use a interspace dental brush or similar to very carefully clean the seating.

tombrown · 02-03-2023 7:01pm

Thanks - I'll try that

They weren't the same JPEG, they were 3 different positions of throttle & choke, which was what I was trying to show

The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

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