Hub Controller options

Thanks again.

You mean the picture you posted on the 1st of December on post? https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119945516/#Comment_119945516

That picture is what I took as reference on my reply above.

What I have is as in the picture attached, when handle is down it heats water and heating, with handle is up only heats waters. Hope that's clearer now?

Thanks

Thanks for all the help, that part looks harder, too much foe my DIY skills, I will get a professional to do it when I decide to upgrade, for now I just wanted to swap the hub Controller with something else.

Thanks

Most zoned CH and HW systems would have an electromechanical stat on the cylinder to turn off the HW zone when the set cylinder temperature is reached. If such an installation is upgraded to Tado or other Smart system, only the timing of HW events is controlled by the Tado (or Nest, Hive, Drayton etc). The temperature will still be capped if a tank stat was already installed. If no Tank stat was part of the pre Tado system, one can be installed and used to interrupt the timed live from the Tado to the HW independent zone valve. I say independent, as if the original system was a gravity system, where the cylinder heats during HW or CH timed events, then a stat cylinder will only interrupt HW heating during a HW timed event, but not during a CH event. It is however, unlikely that HW would exceed desired temperature during a CH event as the heating flow will be cooler due to the load from the radiators. Mechanical cylinder stats are simple and inexpensive passive devices. If you desired actual app control of the setting of this temperature, then you are into more complexity, and most smart brands don't offer online control of the HW tank max temperature, there's little point. The Internet equipped EPH Ember controller has a remote thermostat for HW, and the high end Evohome system also but HW max temperature is set and forget, not something you'd need to fiddle with remotely or set on a smart schedule.

You have a Myson valve in your hot press I recall. You have a Tado stat. Do you have the extension kit with timing for hot water? Does this open and close the Myson in the hot press.

Then you can insert a stat into the live from the Tado HW relay to the HW Myson valve. I'm assuming you have a two zone valved system with HW only and CH only. If your cylinder is a foam insulated one, you can use a contact stat like this in a cutout in the foam.

If your tank is a metal enclosed one, you can use a probe insert stat like this in one of the provided probe cavities

V3 single zone will replace the HC, the Hive stat is wirelessly connected to the Hive receiver, which is wired in place of the HC. There needs to be mains Live and Neutral at the site of the HC, in order to power the Hive receiver, as the HC is capable of operating in a passive mode where no Neutrak wire is present, using parasitic power feed from the HC switched live terminals.

The HC does not have control of HW timing, you may need to consider how this is currently implemented. The HIve V3 has a two channel model for CH and HW, if your current system has these as separate zones.

It may be more convenient to site the receiver of the Hive beside the zone valves, if you system has these, or next to the boiler if its wired straight to it. Check the wiring behind the HC, see if it has L and N in.

Also see if your system has zone valves and establish how HW is controlled. Do you have a HW cylinder, or HW direct from the boiler. Does it heat with CH? Can you have HW only in the summer?

A Tado wired directly in place of the HC, or a Hive mini wireless receiver, with it's Hive wireless stat located where you like. Either are DIY tasks with care.

Later you could get the lever valve replaced with a motorised one for CH or two for independent HE and CH. If you opt for Tado wired, you can later add the wireless receiver next to the new motorised valve(s), to turn off the CH and still have HW only from the App. There will be some wiring involved in this. If you opt for a wireless Hive or other, you can get the one with a CH and HW receiver, which gives you the option to automate HW only at a later date, which would likely involve relocating the receiver beside the motorised valve(s).

... Increase by 36%... What a load of b****x. How does it work when the Internet is down? I'm guessing it has the same schedules. Actually, try this. Disconnect your router from the WAN, if its over an ordinary phone line or TV cable. See if the app still connects locally peer to peer over the WiFi. Even if it doesn't, see if the schedule is maintained. Try this also. Go into the hub settings and disconnect from the WiFi . See how it works, does it run to schedule, can you make changes via the screen etc. You can leave it disconnected if you suspect they may use the Internet connection to meddle with it post subscription expiry I'd be curious also as to how it would work if you reconnected its WiFi to a hotspot on your phone, it might maintain a peer to peer connection if the app still had some functionality after the deadline.

Here's the sketch which implements gravity control.

Neutral blue to N

Live brown goes to L, CH COM, and HW NO.

CH NO goes to the valve or pump, and loops to HW NC.

HW COM goes to the boiler SL.

For HW only timer, the boiler fires

For CH only timer, the pump/valve is powered, and the Boiler fires via CH NO to HW NC to HW COM.

For both timers, HW COM fires the boiler. CH NO powers the pump

NO means Normally open. When the relay is off, Com or common is connected to NC, Normally closed. When the zone switches on, the relay flips, Com is now connected to NO, and NC is disconnected from Com. I devised the diagram above originally for the Nest Receiver which also has two zones with Single pole double throw (SPDT) relays, in order to mimic gravity mode. Gravity mode is available in many dual zone controllers by means of a dip switch or jumpers, or in software configuration, such as the Hive two zone, or the original tado Extension kit receiver. The new Tado extension kit is a volt free double throw receiver, I'm not aware that it can be soft configured to gravity mode, but this simple wiring plan does the same.

This is the better drawn version for Nest