The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

just took out the carb.

The (outlet? thinner) air hose was dripping fuel when I disconnected it. Then when I unscrewed the bowl, it was full of fuel. Is that normal or is that a problem?

Sorry for dumb questions, I'm learnign this as I go

The bowl should be full of fuel and it should carry on running from the float valve unless you lift the float up. If lifting the float doesn't stop the flow thats another issue. One common issue is the valve thats attached to the float getting stuck.

Needle is definitely in. Toook it all apart & put it back together again & it still has same effect.

I did turn the engine over with the plug out - nothing came shooting out the plug socket (that I have seen before)

Is it, at this stage, worth me taking the carb off again & taking it to a mower mechanic to try & sort it, or will he need the full mower to fix? As I said before I havent got a hitch at the moment, so cant get the mower to the shop :(

EDIT: After I typed above I realised I had forgotten to reconnect the solenoid wire this last time I put the carb back. Put it back on & the engine started :) Happy days I think.

Woudl that have made a difference? Have I just got lucky this tiem & may have an ongoing problem?

PS - I also checked the oil and it seems OK (at least no smell fo petrol in it)

Thanks

I'm hoping that when I first stripped the carb maybe I didnt put the needle back in properly, and this time perhapsI sorted that. I did clean it with wire through the various holes & plenty of carb cleaner.

Anyway, its started at least once, so I'll try it this weekend and if it is temperamental I'll take the carb to the mower guy

Hot starting with the choke sounds like fuel mix too lean, jet still not clear, or the crankcase vent tube loose or split. If you can pick up a gasket set, by all means. The seal from carb to manifold should be good, air in here would affect idling, but unless the carb wasn't tightened down its not a massive running issue. Motorcyclists love/hate their carbs. Thank the stars for fuel injection in cars.

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Re: my above question - never mind, found it finally. :-P

Roller mowers are for billard table lawns, 19" cut assumes a modest size immaculate laid lawn. If there is any deviation from this, hollows, coarse growth, roots lumps, moss, generally your average unmanicured front lawn, then cut height becomes important, and the Weibang at 67mm has a small but important height cut advantage over the Hayter, at only 60mm. You may need this extra though tiny clearance if your lawn overgrows even by a few days. Otherwise they're seemingly identical.

The Hayter claims to have an automatic variable pitch device for longer grass, and it has an aluminium deck, important enough as this class of mower is designed for very long life, I'd expect it to last 20 years plus of pristine lawn care. Weibang is steel deck, has the extra 7mm cut and a B&S engine. Over to you.

I'd normally agree, but the Hayter engine wouldn't be Chinese cheese. Price is about €140 over UK when you add exchange and extra 3% vat, but stock seems an issue, so I wouldn't expect bargains, but check this earlier version in Newry with B&S engine for £995, €1130. This ad may be out of date though.

https://www.esaleslocal.com/Hayter-lawnmowers.htm

Based on it being in good condition I’d guess between 2200 and 2500.

If you post the exact model number it should be possible to find the diagrams showing belt tensioner arrangement. Is this a hydrostatic drive machine? The drive to the hydro gearbox would not be particularly tight, as it takes modest power from the engine, and the hydro input pulley is often generously sized, so slippage is unlikely with modest torque.

The second belt is a mystery, or maybe not, as some countax models have a PTO, a Power Take Off pulley under the seat behind a cover, to which rear mounted powered accessories can be attached, by an additional small removable belt fed through. This would be driven by this extra engine to underseat belt, which would be slack until PTO is engaged by a jockey wheel tensioner I'm guessing. Here's a pic of a Countax with the rear pto pulley, and the link belt to an attachment at the back.

It looks like that underseat pulley is the PTO, according to the manual for the D18/50. Powered accessories are connected by looping a small belt over that pulley and out through a slot to the accessory. Is that pulley a double with a spare V belt space? It does look more like the hydro drive. Have a look at this manual, and see how it corresponds to your machine. Its very hard to tell from the images which belt is which. Do you have a PTO engage lever on the floor.

If still available be interested

Thanks 🙏

Hi Guys!

Looking to move away from my Weibang push mower and get a ride on.

Neighbour has a Craftsman T3000 for sale. (5 years old). Purchased from a great local dealer and serviced by the dealer each year.

(Next service due now).

Went for a look today.

41" cutting deck, no marks/rust on the bodywork or deck, tyres looks good, running perfect. Seems a solid piece of kit.

Asking for €2,000.

How does that sound to ye?