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Chain waxing?

  • 30-08-2022 9:07pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,300 ✭✭✭


    Are many people waxing their chains? I was on a group ride a few weeks ago and was shocked when this came up and it seemed that more than half were on waxed chains.

    It sounds like a lot of faff to me, particularly in stripping the factory lube off first, and in needing to reapply the wax so often. I also thought that quick links were not reusable so in theory you'd need to change one each time? But they all spoke about how great it was for shifting and especially how clean it was.

    Anyone tried it?



«1

Comments

  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,890 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    have always intended trying. how often do they strip and reapply?

    i've seen wax lubes for sale in shops which state you must deep clean and reapply every 600km - which is more than i do with normal lube!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,741 ✭✭✭brownian


    I may be doing it wrong - I just cleaned the old lube off with a chain cleaner, then dribbled on the Squirt. Chain looks clean, runs fine; cassette looks nice and silvery. I do get waxy buiildup on the jockey wheels, which I take off with an old wooden spoon or similar, about once every month or so (when re-waxing). Maybe I'm killing my transmission...but it looks nice and clean, and is less messy on clothes, legs and hands than TF2 or (god forbid) 3in1.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,531 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I do it, once the first run is done well and you don't leave it to long till the next it's quite easy. Reused a Shimano quick link several times without issue, and several brands say they are reusable (not Shimano). A boardsie showed me that boiling water to clean before rewaxing and then just going straight to wax was really quick.

    I often forget to rewax on time but I've it down to a fine art in regards stripping and cleaning that I won't be going back to drip lube.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,879 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    Watched a few videos on this most recently Victor Campanaerts who thinks he’d get 1000km per wax less in wet weather. This would seem a lot of faff in Autumn/Winter for me as it would be a new wax every two weeks once new training restarts.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,890 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i'd be curious as to whether CantGetNoSleep's club mates were buying over the counter wax lube, or were doing it the old fashioned way.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,999 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    1:47 into the following podcast is an interesting discussion on it and a guide through how to do it best. Supersecret sauce seems to be a good option for waxing a chain, once the initial faff is done boiling water and then reapply, no need to break the chain again.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 338 ✭✭RunDMC


    I went over to wax earlier this year and I can't see me going back. I used paraffin wax from a hardware store and mixed 10% by weight of 1.6 micron PTFE powder from Aliexpress, just cos. It was a faff cleaning the factory grease off the new chain for the first round of waxing, but since then it has been a breeze. I have noticed that no matter how much I clean the chain before re-waxing, some dirt does come out and contaminate the melted wax but not too badly. After about 400km I rinse the chain in boiling water, dry it off and soak in molten was mixture for 5 minutes. I've found that if I wipe off the excess was with a paper towel before it hardens I get much less wax build-up on the chainring and pulleys. Clean, shiny and silent and it takes about 30 minutes.

    R



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 338 ✭✭RunDMC


    And before I forget...

    "How do you know when someone waxes their chain?"

    "They'll tell you in the first 2 minutes".


    R



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,890 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    once every 400km sounds like a lot - is that during dry weather too?

    i thought one of the main benefits of waxing was to reduce faff - during the summer i'd be doing 400km roughly every fortnight, having to do that every two weeks seems like a lot.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,879 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    Have any of the “waxers” gone through a winters training using this process?

    Has it increased chain life?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,300 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    That is exactly what I was thinking too - but they insist that the first time is the only hassle and reapplying is simple. Most were using proper wax, one guy was using the squirt wax



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,531 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I have no idea about chain life to be honest, not a metric I ever looked at in the past and probably won't in the future. When I notice its worn, it is worn. It's been about 6 months of commuting and racing, so probably not far off 6000km and the chain wear checker hasn't hit 0.75. Switching over to the winter bike after this week so hard to give you anymore info than that.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,999 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    I need to replace the chain on my gravel bike and was tempted to do this but not sure if it would be a massive benefit and how much more frequently it would need to be done? It does seem to be worth it on a road bike



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 980 ✭✭✭harmless


    Not really a good option for winter. Every 400 km or if it rains even once then the wax has to be reapplied.

    I did it over the summer and really liked how clean the bike was. Ideally you want 2 or 3 chains and then rotate them so you don't have to wax too frequently.

    Yes getting the chain really clean for first application is annoying but after that the only inconvenience is waiting for the wax to melt. In a slow cooker it takes about 1 hr for the wax to melt, once that is done it takes very little time to wax the chain and it dries fast too.

    For a reusable chain link I used a KMC missing link. Works perfectly on shimano chains too.

    I guess one thing to watch out for is a freshly waxed chain might not shift gears correctly for the first 10 km or so, don't re-index gears as it will come right as you cycle.

    In the coming months I'll see how long I can continue to get away with waxing. In the winter I usually spend a lot of time cleaning the whole drive train over and over, so I will try to figure out which of the two is less time consuming.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,503 ✭✭✭secman


    Any anti waxers out there ? Interested on hearing your views.

    On a club spin last weekend one of the lads drivechain definitely looked waxed...super shine on chain and block. But he said it wasn't wax but plain old fashion oil lube. Said he cleans chain and block after every ride but spends no more than 5 min doing it 😃



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,556 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    I hadn't really considered it, as what I'd heard (on podcasts) it was a very marginal watt gain. I wasn't paying that much attention but it was discussed a few years ago on the TrainerRoad podcast - iirc they were using an ultrasonic jewellery cleaner to clean the chain.

    Seems a lot of faff to me, given I normally clean the bike post ride anyway, but maybe I'll reconsider for next year!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 533 ✭✭✭Mr. Cats




  • Posts: 15,661 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I heard sugaring is even better 😂



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,310 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Picked this up the other day…looking forward to giving it a try….




  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,890 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    seems to be for dry conditions - the selling point for wax was its water shedding properties, i thought?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,310 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    No i always assumed chain wax was more efficient (less friction/saved watts) than chain lube. it also helps keep you chain cleaner by not attracting dirt.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,531 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Only benefit for me is it doesn't attract as much dirt. A randomer on the train complemented how clean my drivetrain was. This was enough to validate my choices.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,131 ✭✭✭Bambaata


    Just bringing this back up, anybody change process/product etc? Just looking at Zero Friction Cycling youtube channel the last few days and considering the plunge to a hot wax treatment with reapplication of the wax lube jobs



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,300 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Oddly I remembered this thread the other day. I'm actually just waiting for the wife to finish a big jar of dried peppers in the fridge to start the process of cleaning a new chain to get ready. My plan is to do two or three new chains at the same time



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,531 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I have two new chains that I am going to strip and wax tomorrow after work. I had planned not too and just go back to my old ways but the racing season is started and I have been struck by a need to do anything to make up for the extra kilos of blubber and the zero hours of training When I have them done I am going to strip my current chains in Xylene and then wax them for my commuter.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,131 ✭✭✭Bambaata


    Sure while you're at it throw in 2 for me :P

    I am probably going to go this route considering my main goal this year is a TT and every gain there is worth it!


    How'd the winter go for those riding it through wet weather etc?



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,531 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    It was grand for me but then I got lazy as I do it after work in the lab and so I just started topping off with squirt lube.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 248 ✭✭vintcerf


    do you know if squirt can be sourced locally in ireland/dublin?



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,531 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I bought a half litre from either bike components or bike discount a few years ago. Never seen it in a LBS.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,310 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Anyone made their own wax?


    https://youtu.be/XY7QI3xfa_4



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 338 ✭✭RunDMC


    Yes, paragon wax from the hardware store, and PTFE powder from AliExpress.


    R



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,856 Mod ✭✭✭✭eeeee


    PTFE is atrocious for the environment.

    Chain waxing only lasts a few 100k doesn't it? Are there many extra watts you get for the bother?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,131 ✭✭✭Bambaata


    For those that hot wax, do you leave the wax in the slow cooker and reheat and reuse the same wax each time (after strippig the dirty chain etc)? Seems pricey if you had to use fresh wax every time!


    Also anyone using the Silica Secret Chain stuff https://silcavelo.eu/products/secret-chain-wax-blend

    And if so where are you getting it?

    Actually on that front people care to share the products they are using and where getting from? Cleaner/Degreaser, hot wax or drip wax



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,531 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Don't use PTFE, not worth the extra faff (@eeeee never knew about the environmental impact, so I can feel more smug about that now).

    @Bambaata I reuse it but if you don't fully clean the chain its ruined very quickly. I leave it in a tray. Once you remember to do it regularly, the quickest way is a quick wipe and then pour boiling water over it. If you've left it to long, its boiling water, followed by Xylene or whatever you use, maybe 2 or 3 washes, then dry and into wax.

    I use lab grade paraffin wax, reasonably cheap and does the job.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,300 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Wife has finally finished that jar of peppers so I am going to give a start on this tomorrow.

    What do I need from the hardware store? Just white spirits and alcohol?

    Then I will clean cassette, chainrings and jockey wheels with degreaser & a brush.

    Anything I am forgetting?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 248 ✭✭vintcerf


    I've just cleaned my chain with white spirits and methylated spirit from screwfix. Bottled it at the last minute to wax and instead used squirt.


    Here is the Zero Friction Guide



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,890 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i once had what came close to an argument with a sales assistant in a bike shop (who i'd previously complained to the owner about) who started accusing me of having poor chain hygiene when i questioned the instructions on a bottle of liquid wax lube; it stated you needed to completely strip your chain bare and reapply after 600km, which i pointed out was less than once a month for me during summer, that the supposed selling point of wax lube was that it lasts really long.

    that's the long way of me asking what that bottle states is the longevity, i guess!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 248 ✭✭vintcerf


    How often should I re-lube?

    It depends on riding conditions. In general, when you start hearing a dry chain noise, re-application is already due. In wet, muddy conditions it will not last as long as in dry-dust free conditions. In general, from 30 to 300 miles on one application – the chain will stay clean. If you expect riding in wet conditions, lube your chain the day before if possible.


    That's from their website. Been using it on the trainer and noticed it's quieter than the finishline Ceramic Wax Lube I've been using. It could just be in my head though haha



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,300 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    I have three cleaned chains hanging in the garage ready to be waxed. I did two mins shake in white spirits, then wipe down and into new white spirits and leave overnight, then finally wipe down again and two mins in alcohol and wipe with a clean rag. Chain was spotless after that and wasn't too difficult.

    How strict do you need to be on cleaning the drivetrain before using the waxed chain? I'm using a new cassette (assuming there is no factory grease on a cassette like there is on a chain?) so planning on spraying a bit of degreaser on the jockey wheels and chainrings and just wiping down with a cloth - is this enough?



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,531 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I gave a deep clean the first time, scraped off all the crud but its never really built back up. All I do know is a wipe with a garage cloth, sin e.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,131 ✭✭✭Bambaata


    What fancy contraptions are people using for heating the wax and do you pay attention to the temperature? Seems a low melting point for longer lasting (around 70C) and a hotter melthing point if its pure performance thats wanted (about 90C). Thinking of getting a cheap infrared gun and using a pressure cooker but just before i buy anyone doing anything simpler! Can get tht setup for about €50 from amazon so not bad anyway.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,531 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I'd never heard this (although I want to hear the reasoning which I am sure there is), my understanding was to keep it not far above melting point (I am using lab grade paraffin wax) so about 70 degrees as otherwise it doesn't last at all (no proof, just what I was told). In regards performance, once its clean and not worn, I am not sure there is much more to eek out of it



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,131 ✭✭✭Bambaata


    From videos ive seen basically more wax stays on if applied at lower point and less at the higher (as it is drips away more). So performance but not long lasting = higher point and visa versa.

    cant remember which videos but ive watched some with Silca, Victor Campenaerts etc



  • Moderators, Politics Moderators Posts: 41,235 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    Do you break the chain at the quick link (and replace) or do you manage to reopen & close the link when re-waxing the chain?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,300 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    I also saw that part on higher vs lower temperatures (I think it was on Victor Campenaerts' YouTube channel) - he said if you have a race tomorrow then go to the higher range (90 or 95 degrees+), lower if you just want it to last for longer.

    I use a slow cooker and pizza oven IR thermometer. First time I did it, I just put the chain in the wax on a hook, turned the slow cooker onto low setting and left it for an hour (this is close to what is recommended by Molten Speed Wax). I might leave it a bit less time next time round.

    For the quick link - some are reusable, some say they are single use. I've ordered a few spares so I don't plan to reuse too many times in any case.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,531 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I don't replace it, I have spares and will if I am not happy with it clicking in but I have reused quickly is multiple times without issue.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,503 ✭✭✭secman


    Can the left over wax be used in anyway for applying to legs and removing one's leg hair 😅



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,531 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Does it not run out quick if you lift it out quick at 70? I thought that was the reason you left it in until the wax started to solidify? I'd also love to spout out some chemistry bullsh1t about braking up hydrocarbon chains in the wax and in effect make it more slippery but I would be lying (it could be true though). I really thought based on lab experience that overheating the wax, as well as being more of a fire risk, in our line of work made it harder to use and the wax effectively breaks down for want of a better word, maybe deteriorates is the right word.

    Not saying it does or doesn't make a difference but like a lot of things with chains, the biggest affect in efficiency is having a clean chain followed by s straight chain, everything after that is so marginal it is not detectable for most of us.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,131 ✭✭✭Bambaata


    Well i managed to get 3 chains all waxed up and ready to go for GOrey, did a ride today on one of them and immediately noticed how much quieter it was! I could hear the chain moving in the big ring when using the Rock n Roll Gold lube. Barely noticed a noise with the wax. How long do those that have been waxing a while think it takes to "break" the chain in, ie its very stiff to try rotate by hand to start and i came across a figure of 20mins riding sorts it? After the hour it was good anyway but just curious if i need to change chain before a stage in Gorey and how ling of a warmup to do etc!



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,531 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I typically roll it over a door handle so it loosens any kinks, stiffness is gone after a few minutes but make sure you have ridden it as it will jump for a few minute until it loosens. If your planning on swapping after each main stage, the warm up alone shoudl be enough but one chain will last the weekend in my opinion (but I take no responsibility if you chose to and it doesn't).



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