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Solar for Beginners [ask your questions here]

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,520 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Just to clarify that for you Old Jim (incase you misinterpret it) .... no problem having different panels on different strings, but all panels on the same string have to be the same, or you'll drop to the lowest panel.

    e.g. if you have 8x450w on one string and 6x390 on another string, that's totally fine, but you can't mix and match different panels on the same string. So 4x450 + 2x390 on the same string would result in the 450watt panels behaving like 390's.



  • Registered Users Posts: 178 ✭✭Old Jim


    Thanks for this bullit_dodger. Just to expand a little on this

    I am getting 15 x 390W panels but want to leave possibility for future expansion, which is likely. If I understand correctly, the 15 panels will be too big for one string so some will have to go into the 2nd string. Just wondering can I add the future panels to the 2nd string (if the specs allow)? The future panels will have same orientation but different mounting angle. Or should I try to spec an inverter that can take all 15 panels on one string leaving the 2nd string available for expansion. Can you get an inverter with an 800V input voltage. The Solis I am looking at is 600V



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,449 ✭✭✭DC999


    If a future expansion is unlikely, set up now to leave it alone. So split the panels over 2 strings.

    But get the installer to put less on the string that could take a future expansion. So you have space.

    I have that setup of panels on 2 angles on the same string. Same orientation but different angle.

    Works fine with optimisers on one group at a different angle. My optimisers are on a flat roof so easy to replace if ever they die (which I'm not worried about). Optimisers are needed for me as they get different light levels so flat roof would drag the main roof down at times without optimisers. You don't need optimisers until you expand and only on the new panels on a different angle on the same string.

    I'd suggest get as many panels as you afford can now. Cost will be less than getting them out again for a small expansion in the future.



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,317 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    I've never heard of a modern inverter that can take 15 modern panels on one string. But you should check the VoC of the panels, if under 40V and your Solis can take 600V on an MPPT not total max DC voltage (are you sure about that?), then it's ok

    It is no problem to split the string up and later add further same orientation panels to the smaller second string, unless the angle is wildly different.



  • Registered Users Posts: 178 ✭✭Old Jim


    I checked the Voc of the panels (44.67V) and tried to take into account the temp coefficient based on my nearest weather station data to come up max 12 panels per string (600V/47.5 = 12.6 panels)

    If I should have used the Max MPPT voltage, then the max number of panels per string is 10. (520V/47.5 = 10.9)

    The angles are different alright - 15deg and 45deg approx. So is the best action to put 10 panels on one string, 5 on the other, then add the future panels to the string of 5. Match panel wattage for future panels and use optimizers when adding additional? Do I need to match panel wattage if using optimizers?

    Post edited by Old Jim on


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,015 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    Some inverters like a Fronius would easily take 15 panels on a string. But they are expensive so it would be probably be cheaper to add a second smaller inverter later if ever decided to upgrade.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,520 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    In the future, I don't think you'll need to use optimizers when adding new panels on the same string with the same orientation. If you have currently installed 400W panels and you come along later and add 420w panels, the new 420w panels will behave as 400w panels. And you shouldn't need optimizers on those ones.

    I would however try to maximise the panels now. I know.....it's hard to do that cost up front, but really if there is one regret that people have with solar is that they didn't max their panels at initial install time.



  • Registered Users Posts: 178 ✭✭Old Jim


    The reason I'm not doing it now is that I think it would be a nice DIY project to take on next year. The additional panels would be on a single story shed with the existing PV equipment installed inside the shed attic so no complicated cable runs etc. Going with 390W panels now for aesthetic reasons but the panels next year could well be 450W or whatever is available at the time



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,520 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    True - as long as your aware that those 450w (or whatever) you buy next year will behave as 390w because that's what you are going for today. There'll be no advantage in buying those 450w next year over getting more 390w's .... assuming of course that the 390w are still available and cheaper than the 450w.

    I did my own DIY installation (with micro-inverters). It's not hard, but I would advise a bit of caution. For me with micro-inverters I was dealing with single panel voltages of ~40vdc. Working on a string of 10-12 panels though, you could be dealing with 450-500vdc. Not crazy dangerous, but you'd want to make sure that your careful and properly cable up things. Only mentioning so you're aware.



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,317 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Good thinking and I'm all for the pleasure and satisfaction and massive money savings that DIY can bring, but you should enquire about the extra cost of the install now. It really adds very little labour to install a few more panels on a lower roof while the guys are at it. The install including panels and other materials is now also covered by zero VAT and if you buy the parts yourself, you will be paying 23% on top of full retail prices, whereas the installation company gets them at trade prices



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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭MacDanger


    Apologies, somewhat off topic here but is the zero VAT on panels being removed at some stage this year?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,015 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    Not if you are buying them for yourself, you would still pay the VAT. But an installer will charge you 0% soon if you go that route.



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,644 ✭✭✭micks_address


    hi folks, i have an electrician wiring up a socket to my givenergy inverter eps at the weekend. The instructions from givenergy are to add a 10 amp breaker between the inverter and the socket to avoid overload and to make sure the socket is earthed. The instructions are sort of uk specific but mentioned adding a new earth rod etc.. we have that already for the house.. is it ok for the electrician to 'tap' into the earth running back to my main consumer board which then goes to the earth rod? He says should be fine.


    cheers,

    mick



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,025 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,736 ✭✭✭hexosan


    Can someone confirm for me that if I have two strings coming off the panels I need four 4sq dc cables to the inverter and I’ll need a 3 or 4 core 1.5mm flex and a 6sq Earth cable to the inverter. Is a fireman’s switch required at the panels in the attic space ??

    and two DC isolators one for each string and an AC isolator between the inverter and the CU

    consumer unit and inverter will be side by side but the DC cables to the panels will be 18m away.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,008 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    That earth rod thing may be UK specific with their specific supply-side distribution types, but the electrician is the one who needs to make the call on it.

    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120499554/#Comment_120499554



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,644 ✭✭✭micks_address


    EPs socket wired today..happy out. Inverter running in ups mode so I'm running the virgin media modem and my router through the socket. Kinda finishes the setup for me now I think. I'll be looking forward to power cuts to try it out 😁 after 5 in the last winter we probably won't have any again for years! Was a long run of cables to where I wanted the socket but the electrician did a tidy job with conduit..10 amp breaker fitted between the socket and inverter.




  • Registered Users Posts: 65,317 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    @micks_address - "I'll be looking forward to power cuts to try it out 😁"

    You can just create a power cut by flipping the switches in your consumer unit 😃



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,159 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    EPS socket is good to have. However, I wouldn't bet on the internet working if there is a power cut in your area. There are lots of amplifiers and other HFC components (all of which which require power) sitting between between your cable modem and the Virgin Media CMTS.



  • Registered Users Posts: 178 ✭✭Old Jim


    Question on underground cables - I am doing the groundworks for my ground-mount/gazebo PV system. I’m awaiting the installer to get back to me on what cables, ducts have to be run but wanted to doublecheck here also.

    What size/type cables from panels to inverter for a 40m distance underground per string?

    Are SWA cables required if they are inside a duct?

    One cable per duct or can you have multiple cables in a duct?

    SEAI guidelines just say cables should be installed in a suitable duct and safeelectric wiring guidelines are behind a paywall



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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,644 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Thanks as Jonathan says just curious if the internet will work with a powercut in the area. No guarantees. Still be useful to able to run a few lights and the TV and boil a low powered kettle if want to make a cup of tea, charge a mobile phone etc



  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭connesha


    We had 2 separate full-day scheduled power cuts in the past few months. Internet worked for the first 3 or 4 hours both times. Was guessing Eir have battery backup that lasted those first few hours.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,025 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    It really all depends on how you get your internet too. Its a big ol "its complicated"

    For instance me, my internet comes from literally the complete opposite direction to the way my power comes, Id be more worried that something would take out the fibre line off the poles.



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,159 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Out of interest are you on xDSL or fibre? I'd expect xDSL work for awhile anyway as POTS phone were powered from the exchange and used to work during a power cut. No idea about fibre, but is probably similar.

    Virgin Media's phone service is SIB/VOIP based so that won't work in an outage either.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,449 ✭✭✭DC999


    For work stuff you can hotspot of a mobile to get internet on that. So if / when the house internet drops in a power cut, then switch to the mobile hotspot.



  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭connesha




  • Registered Users Posts: 65,317 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    That's pretty brutal. I presume you're not in the Dublin area? In my experience in Dublin, a power cut of more than an hour is rare. Less than once a year.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,240 ✭✭✭con747


    Live in the sticks for a while and 2 power cuts would be a blessing 😂 7 last year and 3 so far this year ranging from 3 hours to the worst 11 hours. That's why I got the change over switch and told the lads to rip out the fireman switches when they fitted it.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,736 ✭✭✭hexosan


    Do you have to have a fireman’s switch installed for solar



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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,644 ✭✭✭micks_address


    The annoying thing is when we get a power cut it seems to knock out the cell towers as well so loose all phone reception in the area. North county Dublin and had 5 power cuts this winter. Few hours long each time



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