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Solar for Beginners [ask your questions here]

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  • Registered Users Posts: 298 ✭✭JayBee66


    For about a year, all I got was grid consumption data (after the NC6 was actioned by the ESB,) until the smart meter was "activated" by switching from SSE's 24hr to smart meter tariff.

    I don't know if that was coincidence or not.

    Have you an "activated" smart meter tarrif?



  • Registered Users Posts: 51 ✭✭Sligobuck


    Very well built and reliable in my experience so generally there is a little premium on the cost.

    I have a Solax X1 Hybrid 5 running for over 3 years in the attic with some high summer temps for 2 years (insulated now) and its been flawless.

    Its only accepts high voltage 120v battery packs from Solax but maybe later models are more flexible. I would have added more Solax Inverters & batteries in parallel last year but the difficulty in getting additional batteries pushed me to switch to Sofar Hybrid Inverters, plus self build 48v batteries to expand the system.

    The Solax Hybrid works fine along side the Sofar Hybrid inverter.

    🌞 8.60kWp PV System. Comprised of 6.2kWp @ 235° azimuth + 2.4kWp @ 145° azimuth, roof angle @ 35°, North Sligo 🌞



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,317 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    That in itself is a huge problem. A lot of people get a system but then want to upgrade. If you get something proprietary like Solax, you will lose a fortune on it, having to sell it to upgrade. Or waste even more money upgrading within that ecosystem.

    You'd be better off with a more regular inverter to start with...



  • Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,654 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hellrazer


    On the advice here I didnt activate a smart tariff.



  • Registered Users Posts: 676 ✭✭✭bunderoon


    Looking at a DIY route to start off with. I got prices from Kellihers for the cheapest 410W panels (Peimar) and Growatt 3.6Kw dual MPPT inverter.

    Panels are 183e each (inc VAT) and the inverter is coming in at 511e (inc VAT). Then the standard Fireman's switch, DC and AC isolators aswell.

    On my shed roof, I can fit 6 on and on the shed face, I can fit 4 more. Shed facing south/south west.

    I see a second hand Solax 3.6Kw dual MPPT online. Which is why I was asking about what they are like.

    I'll handle the setup of the panels etc on the DC side and my local RECI will do the AC side to the board.

    That plan is to start small for a year and see how it goes. And then expand from there, I have plenty of outdoor space for DIY ground mounts, using the shed as the power hub before going to the house.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 65,317 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Sound plans @bunderoon and those parts prices are pretty decent too. I would advise to go max on your inverter though, it costs very little extra and will cater for future expansion better.



  • Registered Users Posts: 298 ✭✭JayBee66


    In that case, I'm pretty sure you won't see your feed-in data on ESB Networks until you do get a smart tariff and your electricity provider "activates" the meter. The meter is working but your provider has not yet told ESB that you are officially a smart meter user and won't until you go on a smart tariff.

    Someone will undoubtedly correct me, if I'm wrong.

    Edited - To avoid export/import as some use the terms interchangeably.

    Post edited by JayBee66 on


  • Registered Users Posts: 228 ✭✭bootser


    Don't know if you're right or not but my experience is that after requesting a smart meter (post solar install), once it was installed then about a week later i was able to see my exports on the ESB networks site, no imports as yet. You can sign up for a ESB network account to see this data but EI have a smart portal which probably requires a smart tariff?

    I'm not on a smart tariff but only signed up to a new supplier at the end of April (Flogas) so haven't gotten a bill from them yet so cant say if they are using my export data yet.



  • Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,654 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hellrazer


    I can see my export data which is updated daily but no meter readings after March.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,932 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    If you are not going for the grant then no need to spend money on fireman’s switch

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

    Public Profile active ads for slave1 (adverts.ie)



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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,008 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Yeah, that's fine, but where are you planning on putting your excess if there is no mention of a battery or a hot-water diverter and you're not going down the NC6 route (presumably)? I presume that that the initial plan is to assess and then decide on storage? I can already tell you that the loss of even 1kWh to the grid is painful to look at - I just lost my first yesterday. 😂



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,043 ✭✭✭TaurenDruid



    Do not activate a smart meter tariff unless you've carefully done the maths for your own situation. If you go to a smart meter tariff, you can never go back to an ordinary flat-rate tariff.

    If you and/or your partner WFH a lot, you'll be using more of the expensive day rate. And for many people, being in a situation where your "cheap" night-rate only kicks in between 11pm and 7am makes no sense. It's just not a great idea to be running heavy-use electrical appliances when you're asleep.

    (Source: friend whose house burnt down to due to a faulty dishwasher).



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,317 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    This is the renewables forum. A lot of us use batteries that get charged with night rate so we can use the cheap electricity during the day.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,520 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    This one comes up every now and then. I think every single one of us can state someone who's house burnt down by x or y. These things stand out, and yet, statistically your more likely to get a fire from your fridge/freezer than your dishwasher, but people sleep soundly with the fridge freezer plugged in. Why is that?

    Which appliances cause the most fires at home? (electricaldirect.co.uk)

    Each to their own I guess, but if you are worried about running a dishwasher at night, you really should be plugging out your fridge. That's not to say that I'm making fun of fires, I'm not. But really a well maintained piece of equipment along with (ideally more than one) smoke alarm is what you need here. Fires can also start during the day too, they don't know what time it is.

    Grendfell fire cause by a fridge/freezer by the way.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,449 ✭✭✭DC999


    A dishwasher uses 1-2kWh a cycle. That’s not a huge % of overall consumption for houses with EVs, electric heating, electric cooking…So for people that have safety concerns and don’t have a battery, they could run it during the day just not on the peak rate smart tariff. And the extra cost is the difference of 1-2kWh usage between the day and night rate.

    I run mine overnight. And in winter use as a heater for the kitchen. I time it so it’s finished a little before we get up so it’s pumping out heat.

    I’d agree it’s important to run the maths on it. But load shifting as much as possible is how you benefit from a smart meter. Plus it helps balance the grid which helps the emissions from the grid. I looked at my folks moving to a smart tariff and there was only €50 savings. That was based on the existing smart meter data.  They are in their 70s and don’t want the inconvenience of load shifting and had concerns with electrical fires – which is fair at their age in terms of speed to get awake and out in the worst case. They don’t have an EV so really only have the dishwasher and washing machine to load shift.

    I’m WFH 4 days a week and in summer I use 100watts extra (work laptop and monitor). Ok, I boil the kettle a few times and make my lunch (but don't pay €5 to buy a sandwich). And in winter I’ve an electric heater that is low wattage (intentionally) so the solar pretty much feeds it.

    I’ve solar but no house battery (but have an EV). 



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,317 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    The most dangerous device in your house is your mobile phone. Yet people sleep with it right beside their head with it charging.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,574 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    I have 14 panels with an east, west split (5.4 kWp connected to a 6 kW Solis inverter, no battery).

    Regarding the 7 west facing panels: The configuration is 3 above 4. At around 16:30 yesterday I could see that shading from the roof of the house next door was just about to cross onto the lower panels. Once this happened I could see a dramatic drop off in the power being produced.

    Questions for the people here that are far more expert in this area than me:

    • Google tells me that optimizers would help with my shading issues. Agree?
    • Do I need to install optimizers on all 7 west facing panels?
    • As the east facing string does not have shading issues I presume that optimizers would be a waste of money for these. Agree?


    I have lost faith in the advice of my installer following a few blunders! Thanks in advance.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,008 ✭✭✭10-10-20



    If the shading is linear across all 4 then optimising the lower 4 would only benefit the upper 3. ie - you would lose the energy from the lower 4 when they become shaded and only gain from the upper. But if the shading is non-linear across the lower 4 then you would gain more as you're not losing all 4 at the same time. Whether there is sufficient financial benefit in just running off three, I don't know.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,574 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    @10-10-20 Thanks for the speedy response!

    As can be seen in the photo above taken at 16:30 yesterday, a “pointed” shadow is just about to hit the lower panels. So the lower 4 will not be hit by a shadow at the same time.

    What would you advise?

    Post edited by 2011 on


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,008 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    There's still gain to be made after 16:30. Plus it's probably more of an issue in the winter time when the sun is lower. So I'd say yes, there is benefit in optimisation of the lower 4.

    BUT I also know that @unkel would say that there is also enough room there for at least two more panels. So address that too while we're here and before you have to explain yourself to him. ;)

    Get the optimisers fitted at the same time as the additional panels. Sorted!

    Post edited by 2011 on


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,043 ✭✭✭TaurenDruid



    Agreed. However, deep sleeper as I am, I would like to think I would wake from the heat/flames next to me, not to mention the smell of melting plastic, as opposed to a fire downstairs that would be generating carbon monoxide. But absolutely, smoke and carbon monoxide alarm is the way to go!



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,043 ✭✭✭TaurenDruid


    Yup, and I appreciate that. If you've a battery, it'd start making more sense. Still, absolutely no harm in doing the maths before making an irreversible turn.



  • Registered Users Posts: 676 ✭✭✭bunderoon


    Oh I have a plan for that aswell, just didn't want to spam the thread. : )

    Basically (and I know it's been said here many many times already) but I will get an EDDI installed. I have bought one second hand. I was looking at solar tubes but the quotes I was getting were insane. The orientation of the house roof meant 60 Tubes for my 250Ltr triple coil stainless steel cylinder. I already have a condensing boiler (3 zones, heating controls etc) and Boiler stove feeding it. The immersion element is 2/3s down the tank, so ~170Ltr of water at and above it. Calculations to heat 170ltr from 20C to 55C is ~7Kwh.

    If I divert 1Kw most of the day into the hot water, I'll be happy with that from March to Sept. I use oil to heat the water at the moment and then stove in winter. We also have an electric shower in the ensuite when needed. If I need quick boost with oil, I will. I have a smart meter and I am still on the 24hr tariff incase people are wondering about boosting it from 2am to 4am.

    I will get RECI to send in NC6 so its registered.

    I have a question on that actually. If I send in NC6, should I send it in for 5.5Kw? Because if the above works out well then within the next two years I'd go with a 5.5kw hybrid dual MPPT, ~7.2Kw of panels (east/southeast & west - 2 strings) and then a diy battery to load shift the home usage.

    I estimate that the overall diy 2 string (10 x 410W total) 3.6kw with EDDI setup will cost me about 3200e. My labour is free, so no point including that.


    If someone has a better way of doing the above, I'm all ears. The Renewable Energies section here is a god send for people like me.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,574 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Funny you should say that:

    The agreement was that the installer would install as many as they could fit. Unfortunately the installer arrived with only 14 panels (5.4 kWp) which they connected to a 3.6 kW Solis inverter (supposed to be a 6 kW unit). I spotted the error on the app. There was a bit of back and forth with the installer but eventually they conceded and swapped out the inverter for a 6 kW unit and agreed to return to install more panels.

    This is happening tomorrow, so I will get the optimizers installed on the lower panels then as well.

    Thanks for the reply.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,008 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    In case it comes up tomorrow - depending on the brand, not all panels need to be fitted with optimisers.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,008 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Has anyone fitted Vario 2 pantile hooks to a concrete tile roof and had an issue where the arm is riding too high over the lower tile even when adjusted down as much as possible? See that 2cm gap all along the arm:


    The Vario 1 pantile is lower by 5mm, but I'm not sure that's going to be enough.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,008 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Correction - As pointed out by @idc, not all panels need to be fitted with optimisers if the panels are in a different orientation.

    https://support.tigoenergy.com/hc/en-us/articles/209345667-Different-Orientations



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,489 ✭✭✭Ginger83


    I was wondering how to go about adjusting the house insurance to cover the solar investment.

    Is it part of the rebuild or contents value?

    Would it be possible to do online or do they look for paperwork?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,449 ✭✭✭DC999


    I just told them I had 12k of solar installed. No additional cost to policy. No paperwork needed.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,489 ✭✭✭Ginger83


    And did they adjust your policy? Contents or building?

    Who are you with btw?

    Post edited by Ginger83 on


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