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Abbey Slurry Tank - Front ball valve assembly not allowing suction? (See Photos)

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  • Registered Users Posts: 26 Dan Gibbons


    Oh ok. That makes sense. I thought that the ball was going up and down the metal tube depending on whether the pump was sucking or blowing. From what i understand you are saying, the ball would stay at the bottom of the assembly at all times except in an emergency when slurry accidentally got sucked into the assembly and only then would the ball rise as the slurry rose inside the metal tube to where it would stop at the top of the assembly unit and cut off the slurry from going any further, in other words into the pump itself.

    When i opened the bottom cover of the ball valve assembly unit, the ball seemed quite tight in there. It took me a while to lever the ball down and out of the assembly. Is it supposed to be that tight?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,427 ✭✭✭hopeso


    No, the ball shouldn’t be so tight. It should move freely. Perhaps that’s your issue. You should reassemble the trap without the ball as a temporary measure, just to see if everything works. Don’t go at slurry without the ball.

    Is it a buildup of rust and crud that’s making the ball tight?



  • Registered Users Posts: 26 Dan Gibbons


    I dont think its rust. There is a bit of crud but not enough to make the ball tight.

    Is it possible the ball has swelled? The ball is squishy to feel, as though it is full of air, and after pressing it in about 5mm all around i can feel the hard inner core, but the rubber outing pushes back out again. Just like you would squish a balloon and after you let it go the balloon pushes back out again. So the ball seems to be a sealed unit that is undamaged since it left the factory.

    I had to push a long screwdriver up to lever the ball down the tube and even this took me several attempts. The outside of the rubber ball is making contact, all the way around, with the inner surface of the metal tubing of the assembly.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,427 ✭✭✭hopeso


    Yes, it sounds like the ball has swelled. It should have a solid feel to it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 26 Dan Gibbons


    That's interesting. I must take it to my dealer. I have no experience with what these balls should feel like.

    Though its puzzling me as to why the tank is able to blow air out the back fine, but wont suck air in at all.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,427 ✭✭✭hopeso


    Hard to say, but blowing is pressurised air, while sucking is a vacuum. The defective ball probably reacts differently to each. As I said, reassemble the trap without the ball to make sure it’s the ball at fault.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,258 ✭✭✭green daries


    Like other posters have said take out the ball re assemble the trap a see have you got suction in your tanker it sounds like the problem is that the ball has swelled try that first before the hassle of going to the dealer



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,427 ✭✭✭hopeso


    Just to something to add….. If you’re testing the tanker for blowing and sucking, make sure that you have one of the filling points open at all times. It’s something that you could easily forget to do, and end up much worse than when you started!



  • Registered Users Posts: 26 Dan Gibbons


    UPDATE

    So i managed to fix the slurry spreader. It turns out the problem was indeed the ball inside the ball valve assembly unit directly over the pump. It had swelled to 110mm in diameter and had become squishy. One dealer did not know if a squishy ball was normal, the other one told me it was not and had seen balls become like that before. He gave me a new one, which is solid to feel and 100mm in diameter. Cost €25. So i put the new ball in, gave the inside of the ball valve assembly unit a clean while i had it open (a dirty job as the cover is at the bottom which means all the crud will run down your arm when you stick your arm up there with a rag and some diesel to clean it). Took the spreader for a test run and was sucking and blowing fine.

    Many thanks to all the posters you posted here. Hopefully others will find this info helpful at a later date if they find their slurry tank will blow but not suck.

    On a side note. When storing the slurry spreader for the winter, should i keep the central back hatch opened or closed? This is the hydraulic hatch which is raised and lowered by the hydraulic oil hose. Does it matter? Or does one setting (raised or lowered) put more pressure on the hydraulic hose for the winter?



  • Registered Users Posts: 844 ✭✭✭dohc turbo2


    Put in netural ,( middle ) for storage



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  • Registered Users Posts: 26 Dan Gibbons


    So the back hatch would be half open?

    I wasn't sure which position (opened or closed) was putting the most pressure on the hydraulic line. So half opened (or half closed depending on which way you look at it) would be best?



  • Registered Users Posts: 844 ✭✭✭dohc turbo2


    Sorry read too fast last one, it was the pump I taught u were on about, Leave it closed, open the manual one wouldn't make any difference once u give tank wash out when finished be most important with the painted tanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,135 ✭✭✭zetecescort


    leave it closed and you have no pressure in the hydraulics so its easier to disconnect and re-connect to the tractor



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,245 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Glad you got it sorted Dan.



  • Registered Users Posts: 81 ✭✭Katie 2018


    Have an 1100 abbey doing a bit of rattling in the pump when filling an spreading.seems to only start after first couple of loads.it working fine apart from the noise.any idea what could be?vanes?



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,245 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Hi @Katie 2018 first thing to suspect would be sticking vanes. They are usually the prime suspect when the is a noise from pump. Could be just one or two of them stuck that causes the noise and the others working able it to preform as expected.

    Get a jug of diesel (maybe just under a litre) , put the pump on spread. Put the jug of diesel up to the pump exhaust and it will suck the diesel into the pump.

    Leave it for a few minutes at 540rpm. This will help clean inside of the pump. Put the pump then into fill. This will blow out the diesel. Repeat it and see if it makes any difference.

    On previous page there is a link to this in the Abbey manual that I posted.

    Ensure you are running the pump at around 540rpm as too low will have an effect on the vanes.

    Also check the oil dropper is set at approx 1 drop per second to keep it lubricated.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,258 ✭✭✭green daries


    Just to add when finished with the diesel cycle suck in 300 ml of vacuum oil or similar into the pump.p in the same way as occasionally a vein can snap after the diesel bit



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