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Labour Saving and General Guntering

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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,188 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey




  • Registered Users Posts: 157 ✭✭dubbrin




  • Registered Users Posts: 11,207 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    1Very much in the "guntering" tradition, fix it now-no matter how it looks....



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,188 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    @Nekarsulm sets the craic with the car in the background?

    We have a wagtail vicon and the bushes are worn in it. You can hear it two parishes away. Sounds like a machine gun. Must get it fixed as there is no value in a new one for all we spread.



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,207 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Funky Monkey,

    The bottom of the Kuhn spreader is a separate unit, spot welded to the hopper.

    it rusted through and dropped, allowing the spreading vanes smash into the pair of nylon guides that directs the fertilizer onto the spinning plates.

    The lower plate is seriously hard, Tek-Screws had no effect on it.

    I bought three 3mm drill bits, and even they only bored one hole each before blunting.

    The car is a 3.0 Trooper I bought for parts.

    Non-runner, and a few lads had been at it, so the wiring was "interesting" to say the least.

    Put the Tech2 on it, and it came up " immobiliser no signal"

    Tried it with a spare ECU/Immobiliser/Key set from a known good one, and it started right up.

    Chassis is probably beyond saving.



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  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,659 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    I see the 3cx is marking it's territory Neks!

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,057 ✭✭✭bogman_bass


    thats why I got 70L compressor and not something bigger. I can fill it with air and throw it on the boot of the car and have enough air to get a machine home a lot of the time



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Lime Tree Farm


    @Nekarsulm, they're able to peep around corners here

    Post edited by Lime Tree Farm on


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,207 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Needs both main lift rams of the front loader resealed, plus one jack ram.

    At €60~ a drum for hydraulic, it's become a priority.



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,659 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    I burst a hose during the week, I reckon the oil that leaked out cost more than the new hose. 200L drum is the way to go. Have a leaking jack too. Going to be on the long finger until a few more jobs get done.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,406 ✭✭✭have2flushtwice


    The Jack rams aren't too bad to remove, did one before, if I remember I let it down a bit onto some timber and open the bottom nuts with airgun. Top was handy enough



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 3,148 Mod ✭✭✭✭K.G.


    Would there be any issue with running a cable 125 metres long to a float switch to run a pump?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,150 ✭✭✭green daries


    You need to size the cable accordingly it will need to be fairly heavy for ghat run what hp is the pump



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 3,148 Mod ✭✭✭✭K.G.


    1.5 hp i was thinking myself that I'd put the switch on the negative but maybe that's wrong thing to do



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,087 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Avoid a large load on that line using a relay or contactor to control motor and float switch to just control coil voltage.


    Or wireless controls, but might need some extra planing to fail safe.



  • Registered Users Posts: 18,544 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    Probably think about using the float switch to trip a contactor.. This reduces the pump being strained running the power all the way to the float switch and back down to the pump.. The pump is fed direct from the contactor beside it, the contactor would be far less susceptable to damage from voltage drop over such a run.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,150 ✭✭✭green daries


    Your probably talking about a 4square swa cable run through an rcd for the run length your talking about and the size of pump is it temporary or permanent set up your looking for .



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,188 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Never seen silage wrap being gathered up like this. Fairly neat way of doing it, but there mustn't be the smell of his stuff that there is of ours. We tend to keep as much distance as possible!




  • Registered Users Posts: 18,446 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Its the dry weather, it's haulage and the concrete is clean. Bring them into a farmyard in Ireland during the winter

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,178 ✭✭✭DBK1


    Cutting net with a knife, especially on bales that are still perfectly in shape like that, has to be the slowest and stupidest way of taking it off. Catch the end of the net and walk around the bale unwinding the net is much easier and faster and no net is ever left behind on the bale that way.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,087 ✭✭✭emaherx


    I see there is plenty of support for this opinion, but I disagree, a good sharp knife can slice through the whole net in a single stroke and save all the walking around in circles, the knife is already in hand from cutting the plastic anyway. Your man in the video is making a mess of it as his knife is obviously blunt.

    or just intentionally struggling with the net as he wants to demonstrate the film as being easier (which it probably is anyway).



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,178 ✭✭✭DBK1


    The film definitely would be easier no matter how you take off the net but the net is not as big an issue as is being made out in the video.

    Around 2 and a half rounds of net is what would be on silage bales so it’s not that many circles and will always be easier than trying to cut it, no matter how sharp the knife is. Also on the last round you shake the net in your hand as you are pulling it off and any silage stuck to the net will fall off and leave the net clean.

    Also, depending on how far the baler driver stayed driving after the buzzer for tying went off, you can get a small layer of silage covering the start of the first layer of net on the bale. Then, depending on where you cut the net with a knife, this bit of net can be hidden in the bale. Not too much of a problem in silage as it’ll be seen in the feed passage and picked up, but as someone that spreads dung, it’s a lot of hassle when these bits are in the dung from the straw bales and get caught in the beaters of the spreader. That’ll never happen if lads just walk around the bale to take off the net!



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,087 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Each to their own, one slice saves 2 and a half trips around the bale, never found I'd any issue with net not being clean when pulled away from the bale this way.... But perhaps that depends on the baler/operator? If there is a small bit of silage between the layers?

    I find it easiest to cut plastic first, peel it back and place bale beside feed barrier before taking net off so it doesn't fall apart before being placed, one slice of a sharp knife and net is off. If I'd a bad knife on me I might do the rounds of the bale but I'd be going between the heads of the cattle and the bale.



  • Registered Users Posts: 18,446 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Net and silage will blunt any knife very fast. With dry bales like that whether it's on the ground as is or is on spikes the bale will not fall apart.

    If bales are low DM then it's harder to unwrap net and slicing it underneath is probably the easiest solution.

    I would tend to unwrap the net as much as possible

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,397 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    Kind of labour saving but mostly hardship making.

    Had the bales always on hardcore here. And with the change of wind and the opportunity of a near empty pad where the bales go. I took the chance and put down a concrete slab with run off to a tank.

    However this between wanting a good cure and when it was done pushed back the date of silage making. So I'm now only cutting first cut now. It got no fert but it's the time of year and between grass and docks I'll have dying stock eating it.

    So I may go with molasses on the cut swarth.

    Cue thinking hats on.

    So I plumbed up a connection for the ibc tank. It'll be on pallet forks on the back of the tractor. I cut a slit underneath the pipe with the angle grinder and I may judge the application rate by the tank. Aiming for 100 litres per acre. (It's going to be a heavy crop). I can speed up or slow down depending on how it's going or wrap tape over the slit to slow it down.




  • Registered Users Posts: 11,397 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    I should have really made that attachment to go out to the side of the ibc and be able to drive alongside the swarth. Contractor here rakes ahead of the baler and the swarths are that bit more higher. Plus there's room then to drive alongside the swarth.

    Anyway did it.

    Field did 14 bales/acre. Fertiliser was 50kg kieserite and three quarters of Field got slurry.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,944 ✭✭✭cute geoge


    How did you figure out the flow rate in the end ,what adjustments will you make to get attachment to flow out side of ibc cause I will be doing a similar job here my self and trying to make it up as you go along .

    Great ideas by you!!!

    Meas Mór



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,397 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    The attachment to the side will be the ibc turned sideways and just a straight pipe out from the tap with one those blocking joiner ends on for the end of the pipe and I'll drill holes this time in the pipe underneath. I have a fair idea by looking now after today what type of flow rate I want.

    I only used a third of what I wanted to put out today. That was because the slit wasn't enough and then I was taking a knife to make a hole on each side on the slits. But it is what it is. What's gone out today was better than none.

    The pipe is 1 inch normal gauge and that was because the screw on joiner for the ibc was 1 inch in the co-op. But it does flow perfectly in 1 inch.

    And the bucket will be left on the loader to put the pipe in to and from the field. That ain't going in the cab of the tractor. 😆



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,659 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    Could you just make the pipe longer and pull it up to stop molasses flowing out?

    Good return on the bales anyway.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,397 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    You could but there's a tap anyway on ibc tanks. All you have to do is turn it off.

    You're risking damaging the pipe that way. And you do have to get to and from the field.



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