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Heat Pumps - post here.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 21,990 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    I wont mind at all, I'll likely be fiddling away with batteries and off grid systems anyway so another wont hurt!



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,402 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Ugh, I think I'd rather burn the house down and start again

    I guess that's the reality of retrofitting the heating system, you either live with visible pipework or you're ripping up floors and walls

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 191 ✭✭Curiousness99


    So i should be getting a ,'new geothermal pump unit fitted, it's a 12kw nibe unit with inbuilt cylinder. €16k ish installed, don't strictly need to replace the unit but given other works needed (and grant availability, increased efficiency) it kinda makes sense)



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,414 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    A2A is far cheaper and less intrusive than A2W for retrofit and can cool very well too. It can't heat DHW, but don't be fooled by that drawback as heating a home costs a multiple of heating DHW. Even for a family like mine with me and 4 women 😂



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    If considering ac what about mhrv with ac. It’s especially good if you’ve really sealed your house. It’ll supply warm fresh air in winter and the ac can then provide the cool fresh air in summer.

    your heatpump will really only work to cool with ufh pipes not rads. Might we well worth looking at the advisory that came with your ber to see what was recommended in term of airtighness of the house itself before looking at heat pumps. The heatpump works great when specced properly and in the right building ( insulation and airtight) otherwise they can be ineffective and very expensive, however integrated with solar Pv as I am I think they’re great.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,402 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    This is what I'm considering too, but it's a big enough job to retrofit, not exactly a simple installation

    I think that kind of stuff works well when you're doing a lot of work on the house and can bundle the jobs together

    For my own case, I might be doing some major works in around 5 years so I'll probably upgrade the heat pump, replace the downstairs rads with UFH and upstairs with MHRV and fan coils for heating and cooling

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    Hi All, did anyone DIY their own heat pump? I’ve an apartment in Portmarnock (close to the sea) is this an issue? I have a contact in Daikin who can prob get me trade rate and bit of discount.

    I can do the heat loss calcs myself and figure out what heat output I need. Or reverse engineer it as I know my flow temp on the old boiler and the sizes of the existing rads.

    I believe I’m a B3 BER. I’m on the top floor; so two units under me which basically gives a lot of free heat apart from on the coldest days.

    I have a full TADO setup in this property with smart valves and temp sensors in each room. I would like to keep this.

    The existing hot water tank is in fine condition would not want to touch that.

    im a regular on the solar PV side of things on this forum and DIYd my own solar install (and as such didn’t get a grant). Is it the same story with the grants here? Can do it Cheeper yourself without the grant?



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,402 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    It's been done, here's a video of a guy in the UK doing it

    I'd say the hardest job probably isn't the heat pump, it's resizing pipes and radiators as needed

    I imagine you can kiss any grants goodbye doing a DIY, but depending on the level of pipework that needs changing it could be cheaper overall

    Personally I'd probably go ahead and do the heat loss calculation, see what radiators and pipes need work and what heat pump models will suit

    That should give you a good starting point from where you can get some quotes and compare to doing it DIY

    As far as a coastal location goes, I believe Daikin have some guidelines on it. IIRC, if the heat pump is directly exposed to sea breezes that could carry saltwater spray then it's recommended to put a small fence in front of the heat pump to act as a wind breaker. The easiest solution might be to put the heat pump on the land facing side of possible

    EDIT: Since you have solar PV, I'd recommend looking into a heat pump that does cooling as well in summer. Daikin heat pumps can be used as a diverter for excess solar, it might be a handy way to deal with those summer heat waves.

    It does add a lot of cost since you have to install fan assisted radiators, but it's worth considering IMO

    Also if you go ahead with the DIY route let us know how you get on. I might be going the same route for my house in a few years, we have a heat pump already but considering an extension which will require moving and possibly upgrading the heat pump. I'm quite interested in a Daikin heat pump myself, they seem a bit more competent than the Dimplex sh!theap I currently have

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,398 ✭✭✭randombar


    Doing a bit of work myself at the moment which means replacing floor in about 1/3 of existing build. Was talking to different people about UFH mats that sit on the (well insulated) concrete. The majority of the companies say however that it's pretty much all or nothing i.e. you've to do all rooms downstairs rather than one at a time. Now looking at milling into the concrete. Got a quote of 9k all in. Would mean I'd be lifting and replacing 3 rooms of engineered timber flooring but I think ir would be good long term when I need to put in the A2W



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,990 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    So I have a quote of about 7k all in including standard install for a 17kW heat pump. Is that good? I really am clueless on heat pumps compared to EVs and PV etc



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,606 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    Is that price after grant, I assume so? I have been trying to get prices for a retrofit ourselves without much luck so would be interested if you could pm me the details, thanks.

    I have got a couple of quotes for supply only of a 11kW heat pump and 220l tank of between €5600 and €8500 if that gives you some idea on pricing.

    EDIT: Those are ex. vat



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,025 ✭✭✭Mr Q




  • Registered Users Posts: 8,726 ✭✭✭micks_address


    im really thinking longer term i want to go air to air heating / cooling. The cooling is nearly as nice to have as the heating in the house! i had a chat with an installer who put in some lg mini split units for someone but to be honest they while they do a good job didnt fill me with confidence. I don't want to put in 2 mini split units for cooling that can heat but not have an plan for the overall house.. there is a daikin multi plus system that will actually heat a hot water cylinder as well. From what ive heard mitsubishi are the best units / hardware in general to go for. Id love to be able to build up the system.. start with a heatpump and maybe a couple of indoor units and add more to the rooms as we go and live with it for a year or two and see if we could remove rads at some point.. the other challenge we have is we have gun barrel pipes under concrete downstairs and wooden floors upstairs.. i dont want to spend 5k upgrading piping... when that would nearly pay for half an air to air system!



  • Registered Users Posts: 897 ✭✭✭Busman Paddy Lasty


    Do you both know your house HLI, and have it calculated by a qualified assessor? @ELM327 and @THE ALM

    I bottled going for a heat pump because house was E2 and an absolute ice box before we started other works.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,606 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    HLI of 1.78, air tightness of 1.37 with a BER of A2



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,990 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    Not including the grant, no. It's including VAT but its an ex display model from a local plumber so there's only one and its not online. I dont think

    It's a BORC 17kW, that was all I could see.



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,990 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    No idea, I'm sure there's a junk figure written when I had to get a BER for the PV grant but as they dont test anything it's meaningless.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,025 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    2.9k they have those listed for as ex display. 4.1k for install seems massively over the odds to me, it only has a flow and return plus power.

    Personally I wouldn't touch that but someone else here might be familiar with the brand. I assume it is just a Chinese rebranded unit.

    Did they say it would work with your current DHW tank and rads?



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    I have solar at a different property. Unlikely we can get solar at the apartment due to the management company owning the roof (I’m actually one of the directors so I’m going to see about this - not just for me but for other residents that might want PV)


    I already have a quote from my Daikin contact for that multi plus air to air with the water tank. It’s coming in at about 5800 for the outdoor unit, 3 indoor units and the 150L water tank. That price is subject to a bit of discount if I twist his arm; but it totally excludes all other materials like copper piping / conduit and also the RGas certified person that I would need to charge the system with refrigerant. But this system is for the house with the PV not the apartment.

    there is a significant grant to be had if you can do you whole house with air2air and also a bonus if you achieve a B2 using heatpump but it needs to be done via the “one stop shop” option.


    the heat pump for the apartment would likely not need any upgrades to pipes / rads. And if it did I’d just get a high temp unit rather than a low temp one. But I already run the gas boiler at the lowest setting and it’s grand.



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    What do you get for the 9k the heatpump and the UFH? Does that include the work to cut into the existing concrete floors?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,726 ✭✭✭micks_address


    our heatloss is 2.1 and a2 (ber is no indicator of heatloss i guess), which i believe is too high to qualify for the grant, you need to be 2 or lower on heatloss. You are only grant eligible if you remove your gas/oil heating at the same time which we wouldn't do - we'd want to live with air to air for maybe a year or two before switching completely.. ideally id love to be able to do it bit by bit.. add the heat pump and maybe 2 multi split units for cooling in the summer and a bit of heating, and add on multi splits then as we go to each room as required for heating



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,398 ✭✭✭randombar


    9k is just for the milling into the floor and UFH heating system. No HP as part of that price.

    Lively I know.



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,402 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    I'm having similar thoughts particularly given the summer heat waves are going to be getting worse before they get better

    I'm in France at the moment near Paris and the heat is pretty unbearable in the middle of the day, particularly in a cottage without air conditioning

    The important thing to remember is there's no one universal solution for every house, so make sure whatever you get suits you

    For me, I'll probably stick with Air to Water for a few reasons

    First off, we don't get hot summers in Ireland, we get heat waves for several days. And the thinking seems to be that they'll get worse rather than a constantly hot summer.

    So it'll be a case of using the cooling for maybe 2-3 months while the heating will be used for 6 or more months.

    To me, this means whatever I use should be a heating system primarily with the ability to cool, which generally suits A2W better

    This does mean I'd need fan assisted radiators or an equivalent but they seem like a good investment anyway to help heat the room quickly

    The other side of the job is a bit simpler, I already have an A2W heat pump so it's likely that most of the pipework will be useable already

    I don't really buy the idea that A2A is less intrusive. If using mini splits then fair enough but they only work on one room. If going for a whole house then you'll need to run refrigerant lines everywhere, which doesn't seem any better than changing heating pipes tbh

    I'm also a bit unsure about what happens if the refrigerant lines leak. There's probably enough gas in the lines to cause much harm but I'm not sure I'd want my kids to be breathing in a roomful of the stuff. Then you need to get someone out to repressurise the system for it to work again.

    With a water based system, if you get a leak then you'll hopefully catch it before it causes any damp mould and once the leak is fixed (could be an easy DIY job) then you just top the system up with water

    The last thing which pushes me towards A2W is the DHW. Daikin have a system for that but it looks like a fairly small water tank, and most A2A systems don't do any hot water it seems

    So you end up needing another heating system for water. You can either go cheap and get an immersion heater, use a fossil fuel boiler, or get a small heat pump that only does hot water. Seems like a lot of extra expense with not much benefit

    There's the argument that solar PV+immersion is the best bang for buck since the hot water is free most of the year, but I've a little counter argument to that

    Let's say it takes 4kWh to heat the water with an immersion, or 1kWh to heat it when a heat pump. The hot water is "free" for more of the year with the heat pump because even in mouldy winter sunlight you can probably squeeze enough juice out to heat the tank

    In summer, with the immersion you'll be heating the water for free, but with a heat pump you'll heat the water for free and either throw another 3kWh into a house battery, or an EV, or chuck it to the grid and get 72c for the trouble (remember, we'll all be on smart meters at some point, so it'll be metered export eventually)

    My biggest issue with A2W is the prices that installers are charging, plus the issues with installation that a lot of people are seeing. Personally I think the only route that's financially feasible is to do as much of the work yourself DIY and probably get the heat pump itself installed for the grant, or self install and skip the grant

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,402 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    To add to the above, there's a great series on Heat Geeks about cooling from last summer

    If you Google Heat Geeks cooling you'll find the videos

    The main lesson seems to be that the A2W heat pump with cooling has plenty of cooling power, but it doesn't have the emitters setup for cooling. You basically need the fan assisted radiators which brings extra expense

    They had some other good thoughts, like how changing habits is almost more important than an actual cooling system.

    If you have a lot of south facing windows then the solar gains are going to be huge, and often that sun is shining on a concrete slab floor which effectively acts as a giant storage heater in summer. Which is how you end up with a 26C house after an 18C night

    So putting something like an awning that you can roll out on sunny days to stop those gains is very important and can reduce any cooling load on your heat pump

    Anywhere in southern Europe you'll see shutters on all the windows so they can block the sun and allow ventilation, we're probably going to start having the same stuff in Ireland soon

    A lot of people say closing the curtains helps but I find that the blackout curtains I have seem to absorb and release heat pretty well, almost as bad as direct sunlight 😬

    The general idea is to stop the house heating up in the first place, so you don't need to spend energy to cool it down

    The other thing I learned from the videos is that there doesn't seem to be an equivalent calculator to the heat loss calculation you can find online. There seems to be some tribal knowledge among air conditioning companies that your standard heating engineer probably doesn't know

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 897 ✭✭✭Busman Paddy Lasty


    Our heatloss is 1.68 and B1 rating, went big on insulation on purpose. Will see how much gas we use this winter. Hopefully next to nothing.

    You might be able get grant if between 2 and 2.3 HLI and meet other criteria but not sure if that scenario is still available.



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,402 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    I don't really buy that but I guess it's probably the most optimal solution to do the whole downstairs at the same time

    Did you consider the mats with precut grooves that sit on top of concrete and you can put engineered flooring on top?

    Saw a crowd in the UK selling a UFH kit for around £3k that looks like it'll do a whole ground floor of 120m2

    The interesting thing is you probably have enough space on the manifold to do a few rooms, then do the others later. Might be handy if there's something blocking you ripping up the flooring in those rooms or if you run out of time before winter kicks in and need heating

    Obviously there's a lot of extra hassle that way because you'll have radiators in some rooms and UFH in others so you'll eventually end up with some weird redundant loop in your heating I guess

    Other issue with the mats is that they raise the floor by several centimeters, so all your furnishings need to be removed and put back afterwards raised up. Might cause issues of you have some extra high cabinets, or for a kitchen as your splashback will need to be raised too

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 897 ✭✭✭Busman Paddy Lasty


    You'll know yourself if the house is warm enough anyway. No test was done for ours it's based on insulation levels afaik. All recently done so we had records etc.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,398 ✭✭✭randombar


    The mats was my first idea all right but the companies I was onto were saying the same thing about doing all or nothing. I was hoping to tap into the existing radiator pipework and running from there but nowhere seemed to do that for some reason, could have tipped away at it myself.

    The other thing is you are losing the concrete floor storage heater with that system, I think that's a bad thing but I haven't thought it out yet fully.

    There were low profile mats out there all right but I'd be wary of the pumps being under more pressure trying to pass the required energy through them.

    Milling is definitely a lot more expensive all right but is it worth doing right if you're doing it at all.

    Also going to move from tile and engineered wood to laminate, that way I can take it back up again. Time to get rid of my "real wood" snobbishness.



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    With heat pumps and air tight houses that most are achieving or trying to achieve perhaps it’s worth considering mhrv. This can be combined with AC to provide cooling when required all through the same ducting.

    Once you have a good level of air tightness the hrv is going to become almost essential.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Mirror curtains!

    But yeah, after that blast of good weather, when out at night I could feel the heat radiating off the south west wall of the house.

    Huge solar gain in my house, living room has a large window SE and a large window SW, great in the winter, in summer that room can get v warm.

    Blinds help a lot though... And Aircon



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