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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 14,889 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    yeah I'm in Greystones but I work in the CC a couple of days a week.

    I've put an old 28mm on for now, but it looks tiny on the wheel, I'm not sure it's a great idea (though it seems solid, maybe it just looks small because of the larger tyre on the front).



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,397 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    25mm is the biggest i'd have spare anyway.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,625 ✭✭✭traco


    Lads, thinking about a bit of slow touring using an old Felt QX65. I want to get some sort of rear rack for it. It has the mounting points. Had a look in Decathlon and online. Many seem to use the lower mounts but then clamp to the seat post. I'd prefer to use the origiinal farme mounts.

    Also would like something that I could add panniers down the road if I wanted. Don't need something for bikepacking the world but something solid and funtional. Where should I look? LBS, online.

    Sorry for the basic question but when I search online there are so many options I just give up.

    Pic of similar bike from internet for ref.

    Ta!




  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,397 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder




  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    Sorry, can't see a way to get them to you. If you're passing through south Kildare, let me know



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,625 ✭✭✭traco


    Cheers - I see they have one in staock at the moment but they can be hit and miss with their levels. Only had the other type when I was in about 3 weeks ago.



  • Registered Users Posts: 14,889 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,212 ✭✭✭JMcL


    Those ones are handy in that they can take the clip-on basket which is handy to carry shopping etc. You should be able to order it either for delivery, or I guess collect in store

    Regarding panniers, if you're talking about rear panniers the Ortlieb and the like clip on easily to racks and are very adjustable. I think there are a lot of similar style panniers by I can heartily recommend the Ortliebs - they're bombproof, Well, waterproof at least but that's a good start for a pannier :-)



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,397 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    I bought a rack in Halfords a few years ago, if you've one near you.



  • Registered Users Posts: 17,929 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    Is it the done thing to pull off old bar tape thats gone a bit loose/got gaps after its been on the bike for a few weeks and rewrap it or is it fecked the minute you open it and I should just order fresh stuff online?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    It depends. Would you like new bartape?😀


    I've found over the years when I start looking at things thinking they need to be replaced, it's mostly because I want a new thing. Otherwise, I'll just fix it up without even thinking about it



  • Registered Users Posts: 17,929 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    So it is reusable is what Im asking though, Im just worried it will be all slimy or slack or something when I unwrap it?



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    Honestly, depends on the tape. I've unwrapped up as far as the hood, and then rewrapped, it was fine.


    It's definitely worth a shot



  • Registered Users Posts: 17,929 ✭✭✭✭Thargor




  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,397 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i have unwrapped bar tape and rewrapped it to recable a bike when the tape has been on several years - and that was several years ago...



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,772 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I never use the sticky stuff underneath for the very reason I can do this if it does slip. Yes it is more likely to slip but it cane be re wrapped sort of OK a few times.



  • Registered Users Posts: 407 ✭✭ofthelord


    Hi Loyatemu - I've a few used tyres in the shed you can have your pick of if you are still looking? Different sizes from about 35 up to 45. All should be in decent enough condition. I can take a pic of them and add later. Based in Rathnew so if you are Greystones not too far between us.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,772 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    11 speed Shimano Crankset on a 12 speed bike. i presume it will be absolutely fine?



  • Registered Users Posts: 14,889 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    cheers, I'm away on hols this week, but I'll come back to you when I get back if that's ok.



  • Registered Users Posts: 407 ✭✭ofthelord


    hi - yes no problem. See attached pic of a few of the tyres showing their sizes, you are free to have some of them if they are what you are looking for.




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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    Good morning, folks. I've just picked up my new wheels, which I'll be running tubeless.

    Question is, are all tubeless valves made equal, or in other words, can I just buy a random no name set from Amazon, or are there particular valves that people would recommend.


    As an aside, my eye has been caught by a pair of Muc-Off valves, primarily because they are orange



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,242 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    Would it be a bad thing to regularly adjust tyre pressure? The 2.6" on my MTB are too wide for my riding, there's a considerable difference in climbing at 25psi Vs 30psi, it feels like a flat tyre but on the way down the higher pressure pings off rocks and the back wheel is prone to slipping off rocks which is uncomfortable and just ruins the flow of climbing.

    Have my eye on a digital suspension/tyre pump. Was thinking if it's safe to regularly fiddle with the valves I could adjust it once at the top of the trails and air back up before my next ride. Once these tyres are worn out I'll be swapping to smaller more appropriate tyres.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    There's no issue that I'm aware of from regularly adjusting tyre pressure



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,772 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I know the answer is no but just in case, is there a GRX shifter that accommodates wired brakes, rather than hydraulic.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus




  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,772 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I thought so, have to get a new leftie (old one snapped in what would have been an awesome YouTube short narrated by Lanterne Rouge) and I just thought, I really like my CX bike levers, maybe I'll just replace both. Damn you Shimano.



  • Moderators, Politics Moderators Posts: 39,560 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    The front gears tend to dictate your overall speed in my opinion. If you will be going slow then a smaller front cog might be better. If you plan on going fast then a larger cog at the front will help.

    Then the rear cogs will allow you to almost fine tune the speed. The smaller rear cogs provide for greater speed while the larger ones provide for a slower speed.

    If you were wanting to cycle alongside someone walking than you'd find that the large cog on the front (probably regardless of whatever rear you're in) is just too fast so jumping to the smaller front would be easier.

    Due to this, you'll find going up hills easier if you are in a smaller cog at the front whereas when heading down that hill, you might want to be in the larger front cog so that your pedalling will match your speed.

    There is an overlap at some point where being in a certain small front and a larger rear combination is the same as a large front and smaller rear. However, the smaller front might be easier to pedal at that speed.

    Lastly, the following link describes the concept of cross chaining which you should avoid (the logic being that you want to keep your chain as straight as possible between front and rear):

    Avoid ‘cross-chaining’: Cross-chaining is when you have a little/little or big/big combination. This puts stress on the drivetrain and can cause premature wear of the components. It’s OK if you occasionally find yourself cross-chained – say for a short, steep climb – but it is something you’ll generally want to avoid. The rule of thumb to follow is that when on the big ring, only use the smaller two-thirds of the cassette. When on the inner (or middle) ring, only use the inner two-thirds. When in ‘granny gear’ limit yourself to the largest two or three cogs.




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,212 ✭✭✭JMcL


    I've the Muc Off valves and they're grand. They are at the pricier end of the spectrum though. While I've never tried any no-name brand, with the multi branded Chinese stuff on Amazon, I'd say quality could be a lottery



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,986 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    I’ve a pair of fulcrum racing 3 that are pretty much dead due to my poor servicing of the hubs. Front hub is all but seized and rear hub is very grindy. Open bearings mean that the hub is pitted. I’ve salvaged the relit belt low mileage gp5000s and the tubeless valves off them as well. Do I just put them in the bin or is there somewhere that can get some use out of them? I was thinking maybe the spikes could be worth it for someone for spares or maybe someone wants to practice wheelbullding or something?

    Seperately I have an old bike with Shimano rx100 brakes, any particular brake shoes and blocks I should be looking for? They are wearing thin on the front.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 21,648 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Someone might take the front for a turbo spare?

    For the brakes, any Shimano shoe and pad should be fine, I think you can get 105 ones pretty cheap with pads on Amazon for like 9 quid a pair



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