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Domestic Solar PV Quotes 2022 - No PM requests - See Mod note post #1

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 26 pyor


    I really don't think there is anything dodgy or underhand about the supplier. I just think someone just made a mistake.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    ....delete

    😎



  • Registered Users Posts: 114 ✭✭poker2k9


    Got a quote of €11k before grant for:

    *10x 430w Jinko JKM430N 4.3kW Panels*

    *1x Solis Inverter 5kW*

    *1x 5kWh-Battery (Puredrive Energy)*


    Thoughts?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,412 ✭✭✭con747


    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 313 ✭✭lotusm


    Has anyone put solar panels on a clay tile (Snowdon) roof which has every row nailed and clipped . Today we were supposed to have our 13 Solar panels installed on our south facing roof. However, the Roofer said he could not do it because the tiles would be too hard to remove and would likely break. Even though we told him we had plenty spare new tiles he said it would be too big of a job. The ridge tiles would have to come off and the roof stripped he said

    Has anyone come across a similar situation or has anyone not had this problem with all tiles nailed and clipped. To make matters worse he told us that no company would be able to put solar panels on our roof (yet, we have a panel for the last 7 years supplying hot water and this was not an issue 7 years ago when it was installed)... we are finding this situation very frustrating and would appreciate any feedback or suggestions. Ground mounted is not an option for us.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    The tiles are indeed more fragile than concrete tiles. But it’s not impossible. If he’s just sub contracted in by the solar PV firm; he doesn't really care; he’s got easier jobs around the corner; so it’s no problem to him to say no. And the solar PV firm are prob so busy that even though he’s letting them / you down with this refusal it prob won’t even impact his standing with the PV firm.

    just look for more quotes; don’t make a big deal about the roof; don’t mention the fact the last company choose not to do your install. Just try again and it will work out.

    you could consider an “in-roof” system like this: http://www.windandsun.co.uk/products/PV-Mounting-Structures/GSE-Integration-Roof-Integrated

    maybe this is what the roofer was suggesting.



  • Registered Users Posts: 313 ✭✭lotusm


    Thanks ,,, Really appreciate your opinion , He even said that no other company would do it . He did say he never saw this type of tile before so not sure had he the competence to do the job in first place... I can sleep a lot better tonight knowing it can be done .



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    Post a photo of your tiles if you don’t mind.



  • Registered Users Posts: 313 ✭✭lotusm


    Front and back of clay tile ... existing 7 year thermodynamic panel for heating hot water...



  • Registered Users Posts: 276 ✭✭c1979


    Can anybody give advice on batteries in terms of dept of discharge?

    A few reps have told me the huawei batteries have the best depth of discharge. they are expensive, I'm not sure if it's within my budget/has an effective ROI

    Also I'm being upfront with all vendors telling them I'm using the david hunt calculator, seems to be an annoying to them.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,412 ✭✭✭con747


    I have Puredrive and they are warrantied to use as low as 10%, but I keep some excess in them for power cuts so set the discharge levels in winter and summer differently. Let them be annoyed, it calls out the gougers!

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,040 ✭✭✭jones


    Do Huawei batteries have better depth of discharge than Solaredge? I thought Solaredge were one of the best here.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Givenergy for instance have a 100% depth of discharge. It's a 8kwh battery.

    It's actually a 10kwh battery under the hood.

    Take depth of discharge with a pinch of salt. If you really want to compare them vs just going for the "best"

    Work out the cost per kwh of useable power.

    Most people go somewhere from 10-20%



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,719 ✭✭✭deezell


    I suspect the manufacturing cost of adding an extra undeclared Kwh+ to a battery in order to market it as '100% DoD' is more that covered by the premium purchasers will pay for whats now perceived as a superior product. Clever strategy



  • Registered Users Posts: 61 ✭✭Shane119


    Hi all,

    Below are three quotes I received in the last week. Would appreciate opinions / advise. TIA.

    Quote 1:

    Size: 6.64 kWp: 16 x 415W panels 5,581kWh p.a

    16 x JKM415N-54HL4-B 415 Watt Panels (Jinko)

    1 x LUNA2000-5-S0 (Huawei Technologies Co., Ltd.)

    1 x Eddi, 1 x DDSU666-H

    Pre-grant: €15,750; post grant: €13,350

     

    No battery:

    Pre-grant: €11,400; post grant: €9,000

     

    Quote 2:

    16 x 420W Jinko N-Type panel + hybrid inverter + 5.12Kwh CFE battery + Eddi:

    Pre-grant: €13,235

    Post-grant: €10,835

     

    No battery:

    Pre-grant: €11,635; post-grant: €9,235

     

    Quote 3:

    Size: 6.72kWp: 16 x 420W panels; 4,751kWH p.a.

    16 x STP420S-C54/Nshm 420 Watt Panels (Suntech)

    1 x SUN2000-5KTL-L1 (Huawei Technologies Co., Ltd.)

    1 x LUNA2000-5-S0 (Huawei Technologies Co., Ltd.)

    1 x EDDI

    Pre-grant: €14,200; post-grant: €11,800

    No battery:

    Pre-grant: €10,250; post-grant: €7,850



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,412 ✭✭✭con747


    Some here like Huawei stuff but it is expensive and restrictive when adding batteries down the road. Put your quotes into the quote calculator to see what it say's. http://davidhunt.ie/solar/

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    Quote 3 is decent. Drop the EDDI for now; exploit the high FIT and export as much as you can. Get a smart plan and heat your water on the cheap rate between 2-4am instead.

    You can add additional 5kWh battery modules later for 2200 each inc Vat. It’s likely you will find that 5kWh isn’t enough.

    Just make sure you leave some additional headroom above where you install the battery for expansion.



  • Registered Users Posts: 833 ✭✭✭WildCardDoW


    If you have gas heating for water (combi) I assume you don't need to worry about the heating rate? Sorry for the dumb question.



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    Correct; gas is flat rate no matter what time you use it. And when you turn on the tap it uses gas in demand to heat the water in real time.

    one tip for people with a combi boiler is to turn down the hot water temp to a low temperature like 40-45C.

    a lot of people have it set much higher; like 60C; which is pointless as they just mix it with cold water at the tap to make it an acceptable temp for hand washing etc…

    only exception here is if you don’t have a dishwasher and need to use the hot water to wash your dishes; in which case 40-45 might not be hot enough to get rid of the grease. But most people have a dishwasher.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,956 ✭✭✭circadian


    The hot water tank needs to be heated above 60 to prevent legionnaires, this is terrible advice.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,719 ✭✭✭deezell




  • Registered Users Posts: 6,719 ✭✭✭deezell


    Having said that, the residiual water in the boiler heat exchanger, expansion and HW pipes would be better served with a flush at 60° during a HW demand. There's no great saving to setting the HW temperature low, as you'll cool it at the basin end with cold, so you'll draw less, but hotter water from the boiler. Filling a bath might be quicker also if you can run both hot and cold taps together.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    It doesn't need to be.

    But it's a big fat "it depends"

    it all comes down to how much HW is used, if you have a high hot water demand and use most of the tank a day, you can run a lower temperature etc.

    Heat geek explain it much better though



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,719 ✭✭✭deezell


    You're missing the point, there's no HW tank with on demand HW from a combi boiler, so legionella is not an issue.



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    They don’t have a tank. And even if they did it’s still good advice to turn down the temp. Depending on the turnover of the water in the tank; and if there are any high risk people (elderly or newborns) it may not be necessary to bring the temps up that high ever.



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    You’re way off here. Heating water to 60C only to cool it down to 40C at the tap is a complete waste of energy.

    Both the hot and cold taps are depending on the mains pressure in a combi setup; opening the cold tap takes pressure / flow rate away from the hot tap. It’s going to fill at the same speed no matter what.



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    Exactly this. Watch this. I can’t explain it better than this.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,956 ✭✭✭circadian


    I stand corrected.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,719 ✭✭✭deezell


    Not true, if your requirement is water at 40°, you can either heat it at the boiler by modulating the firing, so the the energy transferred will on average heat the water to 40° or you can heat a lesser amount to 60°, and blend with the cooler cold tap at the basin. The laws of physics and thermodynamics are immutable, if you heat a ten litre basin of water from 10° at the incoming main to 40° at the basin, it doesn't matter how the energy was transferred. If the basin is 40° at the end, by either method, the same amount of energy is consumed, with trivial difference in the losses due to the different temperatures of the brief flow of heated water through the system, and any residual in the pipes.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,719 ✭✭✭deezell


    It is also not true that the flow rate of a single tap will be the same as the sum of both taps, as the pressure applied to the individual hot and cold circuits, especially in an unvented system, will be controlled by the pressure regulating valve prior to supply to the individual circuits. This is standard practice in sealed systems, so opening both taps should not reduce the flow of either, unless the mains pressure is insufficiently greater than the pressure regulator. Even a properly plumbed open attic tank vented supply will present the same head pressure to hot and cold taps, assuming a sufficiently large bore was used for the supply before teeing off to H and C, , or preferably two independent cold feeds to the H and C circuits directly from the base of the tank. I've seen plenty of inadequate pipe runs in diy and even trade installed plumbing, half inch hydrodare split into H and C just at the base of the HW cylinder. In this case you'll get a noticeable but not 50% drop in flow when both taps are open.



This discussion has been closed.
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