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Heat Pumps - post here.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,397 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    I'm in the annoying position that I'll need to replace the cylinder when the heat pump goes because the controller and wiring centre are integrated into the cylinder

    Thanks Dimplex, you f**king idiots 🙄

    On the plus side I should have space to put a bigger cylinder in, so I won't get a cold shower after the missus gets the first shower

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,397 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    You got some deal there, looks like they're closer to €2k now

    Any idea what cost you'd be looking at if you'd had to add in a new oil tank and connection to the boiler?

    My general point is that if you have the infrastructure for one fuel type it's cheaper to stick with that fuel type than change to a different one

    This is why it's very uneconomical to switch to a heat pump at the moment (unless you've some other cost saving factor like solar PV)

    Similarly it's probably not economical to switch away from a heat pump if you already have one

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    Grant have a hybrid heatpump / oil boiler:



    don’t know anything about it other than it exists.



  • Registered Users Posts: 95 ✭✭Cyloncity


    I had a heat pump that the inverter went on last winter and went to a new 36kw grant condensing outside boiler. I had to get a tank and base put in too. Tank is 1000l double bunded. Overall cost 5k. Expensive ......BUT it is warm. We inherited the heat pump from when we moved in 3 yrs ago. It should not have been in the place. It never heated the house and we went though 18k units of electricity for the 2 years with it. Oil is expensive too but we are getting some comfort. I'd love to have a heatpump keep us cosy but it doesn't work given the age/type of house we have. Best I can hope for from a green view point is hvo I think.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    Do you have the heat loss calcs? Are all the rads sufficient size for the rooms? You should be able to turn the stat on the boiler all the way down.



  • Registered Users Posts: 95 ✭✭Cyloncity


    I don't off hand. Rads are over sized alright for the heat pump but they never got the place warm enough. Now stat is down low enough and we have heat when we need it. It is poor enough insulated bungalow about 200m2 . The heat pump was installed circa 07. Geothermal pipes. Not sorry to see the back of it to be honest.



  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭ColemanY2K


    There's a significant gap in understanding in what's required to have a HP installed and running efficiently in old housing stock. @Cyloncity illustrating my point perfectly with a house that was blatantly unsuitable at the time for a HP.

    Any existing homes built before 2008 (and potentially some since) would require significant upgrades to the fabric before they would be suitable for a HP. It sounds like the previous owners didn't take this fabric first approach and paid dearly in electricity bills as a result.

    However there's plenty of examples out there of housing stock built in the early or middle part of the previous century which have been upgraded to a standard where the HP is running efficiently (see link below)...so it can be done but for it to be done right on a wider scale the aforementioned knowledge gap the industry needs to be sorted.

    1920's house below

    https://passivehouseplus.ie/magazine/upgrade/breath-of-life

    🌞 7.79kWp PV System. Comprised of 4.92kWp Tilting Ground Mount + 2.87kWp @ 27°, azimuth 180°, West Waterford 🌞



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap




  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    People should be aware of the difference between efficiency and economical.

    It’s likely that the heat pump was operating quite efficiently (perhaps not to its full potential; but likely quite well)

    The problem is that the home is question still had a huge requirement for heat energy to keep it comfortably.

    If you were to take an A rated home with a heat pump; rip it out and install an oil boiler; you would only use a tiny amount of oil.

    I actually disagree with this “fabric first” approach. I think the first measure should always be to install a generator like PV. Max out the roof.

    Second should be fabric upgrades (including a bit of plumbing to make sure your rads are big enough) and keep the existing heat source (but turn the flow temp down to minimum and see what happens - this will give you an idea of what the house would feel like with a low temp heat pump); and then if you have any money left over consider a heat pump. But maybe wait till your existing boiler packs in (as you would be paying out for a replacment at this point that will offset the costs).



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  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭ColemanY2K


    i see both the PV and fabric first approach going somewhat hand in hand. however there are some initial quick wins when it comes to dealing with the fabric (e.g. adding mineral wool insulation to the attic) which are low in cost yet have a material effect on the performance of the building. windows and doors albeit at a higher cost can also have a significant impact on the energy performance of the house and take a mere day or so in most cases to install.

    personally my view is to tackle the energy sapping elements of the house first, make the house more energy efficient and with reduced heat loss look at things like PV followed by a heat pump when the existing systems end of life approaches.

    🌞 7.79kWp PV System. Comprised of 4.92kWp Tilting Ground Mount + 2.87kWp @ 27°, azimuth 180°, West Waterford 🌞



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,398 ✭✭✭randombar


    Hi folks, can anyone pm me some recommendations for installers that would service cork?

    the oil boiler has given up, was looking at putting in underfloor heating anyway so I’m think now might be a good time to invest.



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    No matter how well insulated your home; if you move to a heat pump; you’re gonna need as much electricity as you can get. So my thinking is you might as well install that first and start benefiting from it immediately; and allowing it to pay for itself.



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    Precision Heating Ltd - Domestic & Commercial Heating Systems Ireland

    (01) 809 1571

    Try these guys; they are a distributor of a lot of quality products. Ring them and ask them for the numbers of a couple of plumbers they recommend in Cork. Get lots of quotes.



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,397 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Get lots of quotes, make sure they do the heat loss calculations with existing insulation and pipework before they tell you to upgrade all your heating system

    If any installers don't bother doing the calculations (or can't show you the results) then don't go with them because they're a cowboy

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭ColemanY2K


    i recently ordered my heat pump, cylinder and UFH from paddy scriven at heat pumps ireland.

    i went for a thermia itec eco unit. paddy's number is 086 8350523, he should be able to advise you re plumbers in the area you are located.

    as the lads say get a number of quotes and in addition do your research into the unit recommended.

    🌞 7.79kWp PV System. Comprised of 4.92kWp Tilting Ground Mount + 2.87kWp @ 27°, azimuth 180°, West Waterford 🌞



  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭ColemanY2K


    i'm not disagreeing with you necessarily. it comes down to budget and where best to target the funds should the budget be limited lets say.

    🌞 7.79kWp PV System. Comprised of 4.92kWp Tilting Ground Mount + 2.87kWp @ 27°, azimuth 180°, West Waterford 🌞



  • Registered Users Posts: 95 ✭✭Cyloncity


    Was a d1 with the pump. Looked it up there. 230kWh/m2/yr. Worse now I'm sure🤷‍♂️

    I'd agree with all of this. My own feelings are heat pumps are more efficient and economical IF the fabric is right. Our house was/is not right for them and making it so would not be economically feasible. PV is something I will do but not at the moment.



  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭ColemanY2K


    is the 230 figure the heating demand or does it take into account other things?

    for reference the heating demand for my 193m2 bungalow (new build) is 11.8kWh/m2/yr. i have packed it with insulation and made it as airtight as possible with the intention of putting as little demand on the HP as possible.

    🌞 7.79kWp PV System. Comprised of 4.92kWp Tilting Ground Mount + 2.87kWp @ 27°, azimuth 180°, West Waterford 🌞



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,398 ✭✭✭randombar


    Thanks for recommendations folks, my understanding is they are suppliers. Is there any recommendations for someone to measure your existing heat efficiency and provide best solutions? Maybe the suppliers will do that and I’m asking a stupid question.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 95 ✭✭Cyloncity


    I actually don't know. That's the figure on the ber cert we got when we bought the place so I guess that's everything? It says building energy rating. It's not poorly insulated apparent from one extension where the windows are double glazed but older wooden frame in style. From a vague recollection the guy that put boiler in guestimated a figure of 20 for something that was probably heat loss. Im guessing that might be heat loss? Wasn't too concerned at the time I just wanted the pump out and some actual heat😂



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,837 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    Perhaps you are looking for a 'heat loss survey' that will test your house, pinpoint the primary heat loss mechanisms and offer various options to address.



  • Registered Users Posts: 897 ✭✭✭Busman Paddy Lasty


    Check your BER advisory report, it might have some more information on your house particularly HLI - heat loss indicator. This should be a low number compared to the BER score, the unit is W/k/m2. A HLI of less than 2 is required for a heat pump grant FYI.

    There could be an easy cheap insulation upgrade that could make the place warmer which could have been spotted during BER and detailed in the Advisory Report.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,398 ✭✭✭randombar


    That’s it all right ideally they would recommend size and type of a2w and how to run it. Any recommendations?



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    You want a Technical Assessment & SR50 Heat Loss Calculations:


    - a complete survey of the existing dwelling to SEAI requirements,

    - guidance for your apartment to comply with the HLI Requirements for building fabric so as to be viable for a Heat Pump Grant to SEAI requirements,

    - calculation of U-Values of existing elements of the dwelling,

    - consultation with you in relation to fabric upgrades which may be required to achieve compliance with HLI Requirements,

    - a Dwelling Details Report that will allow the heatingcompany to correctly size the proposed heat pump based on our BER file,

    - a Technical Assessment Advisory Report which can be easily followed by yourself and all subcontractors working on the house,

    - a Technical Assessment Form showing compliance with HLI Requirements for building fabric for the proposed renovations including extension to be submitted to SEAI as part of the Heat Pump Grant application,

    - a SR50 room by room heat loss calculation to allow the heating company to accurately calculate their heatingsystem design (underfloor heating / radiators sizing),


    Look up the SEAI list of technical assessors and find one area and ask for a quote for the above. It should cost about 600 euro.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,497 ✭✭✭John.G


    The Heat Loss Indicator (HLI) is normally now used, to quote, "The HLI is based on the total of the fabric and ventilation loss for the dwelling divided by the total floor area. It is calculated by the DEAP software based on a DEAP assessment accurately reflecting the dwelling at the time of the Technical Assessment." I have seen that this indicator should be less than 2 before considering a HP.

    I have included a S.sheet based on my yearly oil consumption and converted this to a HLI number, if my house was to achieve your fantastic energy consumption of, in my case, 125*11.8), 1475 kw/annum then my HLI would need to be as low as 0.274.





  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭ColemanY2K


    That's really interesting, thanks for sharing.

    🌞 7.79kWp PV System. Comprised of 4.92kWp Tilting Ground Mount + 2.87kWp @ 27°, azimuth 180°, West Waterford 🌞



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,726 ✭✭✭micks_address


    hi folks, have a plumbing question re heat pumps. Having gunbarrel replaced upstairs this week - one rad has microbore copper running to it (bathroom), very short run maybe 2 foot, rest will have larger copper.. the bathroom one would require a bit more ripping.. im wondering about just leaving the microbore to that one rad.. and if we ever go for a heatpump (we are talking a few years at least) maybe replace the microbore then? Or could the rad work fine with microbore to it for a heatpump? every other rad in the house would be larger pipes. I should clarify its microbore to the rad off larger pipework



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,253 ✭✭✭jusmeig


    Can anyone recommend an SEAI registered Heat Pump installer in Dublin?

    Thanks



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  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap



    It depends on the heat loss of the room and the design temp of a heat pump system that you might install.


    have a read here:

    https://www.heatgeek.com/does-my-pipework-need-upgrading-for-a-heat-pump-with-cheat-sheet/



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