Heat Pumps - post here.

2ish years ago but I got an 11kW ecodan and it's internal unit with cylinder along with UFH on ground floor and new rads upstairs with 8 zones and full replumb of the whole house included for less than that quoted price. Even with inflation that's a poor price.

Weather compensation and energy monitoring should be standard not selling points too.

Commissioning is part of install too.

Reads like the installer took the recent uplift in the SEAI as an invitation to charge the uplift.

Shop around and I'd be shocked if you don't find cheaper.

Just sent.

Pm'd

I have a NIBE unit but I set the DHW schedule to only heat at night rate hours. It is very simple on these units.

It should be in your schedule/timer settings. I'm not familiar with the Samsung unit you have but it should be similar on most brands.

Do you set at 20/21 degrees for the 24 hours?

I can see their point of view. But is the house occupied all of the time?

I set mine at one temp for the evenings during the week as it is not occupied during the days and no one is up during the night. So I set it lower for these times.

But I have solar PV/battery so it doesn't use any day rate by setting it this way for me.

He's not far wrong to be honest.

I do have 2 adjustments/timers on mine though, to soften the blow a little. In the 2hrs leading up to the start of night rate I cut the temp back so that it doesn't run until night rate kicks in and towards the end of night rate I get it to boost a small bit so it doesn't run for 1-2 hours after night rate.... its a small but regular saving each day in the depths of winter.

For the remainder of the day the heat pump does whatever it needs to.

And I do all my hot water heating during night rate via the timers. Thats a no brainer.

it very much depends on how well insulated and airtight the house is. i feel installers don't take this into account and just give broad brush advice no matter which house they are in.

in my case i have a new build, moving in next month. my plumber last week said that besides DHW the heat pump will only come on every 10 days or so in the summer to get rid of the risk of legionella. in the winter the house will have such a low heat demand that the HP will only need to come every few days to give the floor slab a boost which will lift the indoor temps. for DHW it will come on during night rate hours to heat the tank for showers etc. in the morning. if the tank needs a boost later in the day then hopefully i'll be able to automate the HP to come on with the aid of solar (but that's a personal project for another day).

having the HP ticking over in my case would be a complete waste of electricity, money and totally unnecessary from a comfort standpoint.

No i will turn off at 11pm so throughout the night it will prob drift down to 18/19. Can sleep in 21 as its 23 in rooms these nights. Just a waste to not have room loop open when all other living area loops open.

Misread that originally. I thought you meant 21 degrees constantly, as in 24 hours a day.

Personally I wouldn't sleep very well in 21 or 23 degrees. But the temps do creep up this time of the year.

I actually think the opposite and use stats in all of the bedroom/non living areas. I find it is the most efficient way cost wise for me.

Well to be fair unless temps are low mine shouldn't come on either, thermostats are at 20. 5 downstairs and 19 upstairs, if the ambient temp is above that it won't come on, if it drops below it will, I can't see how your situation will be any different? Only coming on every few days in the winter sounds fanciful? Unless it's a passive house!

out of interest do you know what the u-values for the floor, wall and ceiling/roof are? while a house can have excellent airtightness if there's the bare minimum insulation to cover the building regs it may not be sufficient to keep the house warm for a number of days in a row. there's other factors such as solar gain or lack of which also play a part in the heating of the house but the point i'm trying to make is that every house is different yet the advice given so often is broad brush.

Trial and error is probably the best way to find what works best for you and your house.

Because the weather varies so much here it can be difficult to compare usage from one period to the next.

ah your house is passive , thats different, have ber cert somewhere for u values. 150mm insulation in walls, xtratherm, heat recovery etc just your general new house i suppose. Warm house but def needs ufh on during winter.

its a different story in terms of how much heat you need from the heat pump, i still think the plumber is optimistic but youll find out in a few months!

i have the same insulation in the walls, your u-value will be in or around 0.136 depending on the rest of the makeup of the wall which is excellent. i have 170mm PIR insulation below the screed (u-value 0.116) and 340mm mineral wool between the joists (u-value 0.115). it has had airtightness materials applied to an inch of its life. that's the big difference between A1 and passive. attention to detail at the airtightness stage is crucial. the passive requirement far exceeds the building regs which is where most heat losses occur and will in turn have a big effect on the performance of the heat pump.