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New Acres scheme

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  • Registered Users Posts: 21,435 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Along with studying all the options yourself, you need a good independent advisor IWT. I'm organic and ANC so had to tailor what I could do with that. The only compromise I did was put 2 ha into riprarian zone. That loses me the organic payment on those 2 ha. From above posts it looks like I'll lose ANC on it as well. Did that because the riprarian payment was high. All other tasks were only ones that would not impact other payments. I'll have a good bit of work with trees, hedging and fencing, but at least no scorecard.



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,729 ✭✭✭Birdnuts


    As I mentioned, scoring should be done in late Spring, which would avoid alot of the issues you mention.



  • Registered Users Posts: 310 ✭✭RockOrBog




  • Registered Users Posts: 3,295 ✭✭✭kollegeknight


    My scoring submitted by my planner.

    mixed to ok grades with one place getting no score as I’d it topped about 6 weeks before.

    because of all my land in the cp zone, planner said I’d get close to the €7000 with the €3500 option.

    so fingers crossed as it would be needed to keep things going.

    atrached is the scores but I haven’t gotten a full breakdown off him yet.





  • Registered Users Posts: 3,018 ✭✭✭TCDStudent1


    Did your planner send you this? Or could you access it somewhere else?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,295 ✭✭✭kollegeknight


    I got it in the post from the planner along with my bill with more information to follow regarding the extra €3500 and probably what I can do to improve some scores.

    so applying for the scheme, calling out and scoring was €800



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,904 ✭✭✭amacca


    There would want to be some acknowledgement going forward if the scoring is done late that has an impact on what is present .


    + when topping is done etc



  • Registered Users Posts: 333 ✭✭Robwindstorm


    Agree with you totally. My fields and surrounding farms have not been scored to date and the fields look dirty and scrub like. My fields in May and June were flourishing with wild flowers. As someone mentioned scoring could be done in late spring to the end of June allowing farmers cut their meadows and do topping from July 1st. I always topped after this date with GLAS etc and it freshens up both the grass and wildflowers.



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,980 ✭✭✭893bet


    I was in the reap last year. No topinf and scoring in August. Over run with weeds now in certain fields. Never again.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,656 ✭✭✭Western Pomise


    My planner hoping to get out to score my ground and a few neighbours farms early next week. I'm in CP zone,some of my ground has Whins (Gorse) on it.Would have sprayed them with Grazon 90 a few times over the years to keep their spread and growth limited.Missed doing anything with them this year.

    Just wondering if Whins are on ground in ACRES are you allowed spray them or cut them down?......or are they one of the 'weeds' you are almost encouraged to have?

    I wasn't able to attend an information meeting in our area on ACRES but a neighbour was at it and was surprised to hear that it was ok to have certain types of thistles and rushes on your ground.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,271 ✭✭✭✭Base price


    We didn't choose a scoring option in our application but from reading through the little flower booklet that came after our application was accepted there are two types of gorse. One is Western Gorse (Ulex gallii) which it is a positive indicator whilst the other is European Gorse (Ulex europaeus) which is a negative indicator. See page 59 for Western gorse and 72 for European gorse in the link which may help you identify which you have.

    Edit, the link didn't work. Click on this one and see point 14.


    Post edited by Base price on


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,027 ✭✭✭Hard Knocks


    With CP they appear to be pushing no spraying and little fertilizer. Even liming could be an issue as some of the flowers prefer more acidic soil



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,074 ✭✭✭minerleague


    Have gorze/furze myself and asked at info walk because type I have is negative indicator in booklet but was told its only a negative on peatlands ( as it tends to dry out ground) As long as its not growing wild out the fields shouldn't be a problem elsewhere



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Have to do the compulsory and mandatory day course for ACRES soon, what's involved in it, I know there's a farm visit.



  • Registered Users Posts: 310 ✭✭RockOrBog


    Is it compulsory I've never done it



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,904 ✭✭✭amacca


    I'd imagine it might vary a bit but mostly just info, a rundown of all the actions, probably what sections you are signed up for, points that may have been misunderstood, deadlines and farm visit for seeing what actions look like on the ground etc etc



  • Registered Users Posts: 588 ✭✭✭jd06


    Hi all

    I haven't read up much on the avres scheme yet but I was wondering when do all the actions have to be done by.

    Iv owl boxes ,hedges to lay, fencing along streams wall maintaining and such.

    Do they all have to be done now or by the end of this year



  • Registered Users Posts: 552 ✭✭✭Young95


    Most of them have to be done by now … but yet again your fine as long as you don’t get an inspection



  • Registered Users Posts: 18,566 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    There is different dates for actions. I think most hedging work ( laying/ planting)has to be done this winter.

    If you look up.thr documentation the Dept send you the dates for tasks are on it.

    If not check with Teagasc or your advisor.

    Owl boxes should have been complete by July 31st.

    Fencing complete by mid May I think.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,435 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    I think trees and hedging is the 31st March 2024.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 877 ✭✭✭grange mac


    I had march 24 in my head also. Talking to hedging guy and says going to be fun getting all those plants this year as nursery's weren't told in advance about it. And hedges have to be certified so not any hedging will do.



  • Registered Users Posts: 588 ✭✭✭jd06


    Hi has anyone ever seen a YouTube video on how to actually lay a hedge or any info on it at all. Thanks



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I was told I had to do it anyway, get paid for the day - not enough for it imo.



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,435 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Every day is a learning day. Maybe only pick up one thing. I'm going on a farm walk tomorrow evening, same one as I did last year, but might learn something or meet someone with a few tips.



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,435 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Search for Catherine Kenna, Teagasc, she's the expert.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]




  • Registered Users Posts: 18,566 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    It really depends on the hedge and how mature it is. Technically they want you to cut 2/3 of the way through the stem about 6-12'' from the ground and push it over so that the rest will not break off and provide life to the layed tree. Very hard to do with a really mature hedge. I did it last time and a land with a track machine layed them however I was lucky I did not get an inspection. If you do that you will fill an inspection for two years afterwards, but in my case it was the only real practical way of doing it

    You have to interplant any gap's

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 564 ✭✭✭PoorFarmer


    I did some for GLAS. Was mostly whitethorn with the trunks around 3-4 inch diameter. I cut at a downward angle for about half to 2/3rds way though with the chainsaw and lean them over. Don't be afraid to take out excess branches that might be stopping it from leaning over. If there are multiple stems you might only need to lay one or two so will be cutting out excess there too depending on the state of the trees. You will break a few but after a bit you will get the hang of it. It's not an easy job but in fairness there is no other hedge on the farm that comes near it now after a few years.

    I would often lay a branch or two now to fill a gap in other hedges and after a few years it will be closed.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,074 ✭✭✭minerleague


    As you say learn by doing is the best. A lot of videos on youtube are overcomplicated (competition ), especially the English ones with their different styles for different parts of the country. Lay thorn ( white & black) bushes and coppice fast growing species (hazel/alder etc) and whitethorns gone too big to lay.

    Cut as close to ground as possible and try to have to have finished stem slightly above horizontal. If you need to lay a bigger stem to fill a gap you can tie twine ( white electric cord best) just above cut ( plenty times around) to stop it " barberchairing" ( splitting vertically up the middle).

    Fair play to anyone doing some but I have to say If father heard of laying with saw he wouldn't be a happy man 🤣 Always made out cut with axe or briarhook gives best chance of bush remaining alive. ( but I do it sometimes myself in confined space or a bigger stem )



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  • Registered Users Posts: 481 ✭✭anthony500_1


    Are you sure we as farmers get paid for it??? I was under the impression that we the farmer had to pay for the privilege of sitting in for the day ???



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