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Bentone burner not firing.

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  • 10-09-2023 10:16pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 6


    Hi,

    We have an old Bentone burner (1989 B11C I think), we started it up a few weeks ago to see if there were any problems before the winter and after pressing the reset switch once the flame lit. After about 5 minutes the flame sounded like it got smaller and weaker before it extinguished. I’ve not been able to get it to relight since this.


    I’ve taken a closer look, the blower is running and there is a mist of oil coming from the nozzle and the spark looks good. But I haven’t been able to get a flame even outside the boiler. The eye seems to be working correctly controlling the spark when it should be. The only thing I’ve not been able to check is the pressure but this hasn’t been changed in years and I’m not sure how to go about checking this.


    Does anyone have any ideas on what might be worth checking or is there anything we can do?

    Thanks



Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,406 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    Firstly be careful that the mist of oil doesn’t suddenly ignite! Attempting to operate the burner outside the boiler is usually not a good idea. The photocell will usually inhibit operation in this case also.

    Back to your question - not firing at all, with a visible mist of oil and operating electrode would raise a question as to the fuel. It would be worth drawing off a sample from the vent point on the pump into a glass any see is there any evidence of water contamination.

    After that, the performance of the pump would need to be checked with a pressure gauge, together with replacing the nozzle.



  • Registered Users Posts: 684 ✭✭✭blackvalley


    That makes sense. Over time condensation in the oil tank may have risen above the outlet pipe and the mist cone you are seeing is water.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6 Cushenst


    Thanks for getting back. Yes it’s probably not the safest thing but it’s away from everything flammable and we can turn it on remotely.

    I was thinking water contamination but I drained about 2 to 3l and cleaned the filter and it seemed like it was oil. It doesn’t seem to have separated in a bottle over the last week or so either so I doubt it’s water. Although I wouldn’t rule out bad oil. 2 fills ago they put kerosene instead of diesel by accident and then we put diesel in the last fill. I doubt that is the problem but I tried a kerosene nozzle but still no different.


    Is there any easy way to check the pressure without the gauges. Would it be that sensitive to incorrect pressure.


    Thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 684 ✭✭✭blackvalley


    Are you sure that the spark is firing into the fuel injection cone / mist . Over time the spark terminals erode and while still supplying a strong spark it may not be inside the cone and may need adjusting



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,495 ✭✭✭John.G


    If the fuel is uncontaminated, if the electrode positioning and gap is correct and sparking, then not much left only the oil pump pressure.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6 Cushenst


    I tried to position the spark over the mist of oil. It seems like it should ignite where its positioned, although I can't pull the electrodes out any further from the nozzle. I could try repositioning the them again and see if it makes a difference, Since they haven't been moved for many years I find it hard to believe that it would be the only problems.

    The spark also doesn't explain why it went out in the first place, since as far as I understand the spark isn't active when the flame there.

    I might have to call someone and get them to check the pressure and service the burner, it seems.



  • Registered Users Posts: 684 ✭✭✭blackvalley


    Ok sorry can’t be any more help. Let me know how you get on.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6 Cushenst


    Thanks for all your help. We had a person out to check the burner and it turns out there is water in the oil. There is a small hole in the top of the oil tank and I guess with the heavy rain this summer, enough water entered the tank for it to become a problem.

    Looks like we will have to get a new tank, but hopefully the burner hasn't been damaged from the water going though it. Initial estimates are going to be €1500 for a 900L tank. Open to suggestions if there is anything to do myself to get the water out to hold us over for a few weeks.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,406 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    Water is heavier than kerosene and sinks to the bottom of the tank. It is possible to put a tube to the bottom and siphon or pump out the water.

    €1500 is the cost to replace the tank complete with labour? That’s probably a bunded tank - a good job, although much more expensive than a standard single skin tank. A good quality one might be €400. 900 litres may be a little small, 1000-1200 litres might be better.

    Water running through the burners oil pump will have done it no good - you may get away with it, but might be best to replace the oil pump and nozzle. Circa €150 in parts.



  • Registered Users Posts: 684 ✭✭✭blackvalley


    Unless it’s an old steel oil tank and badly corroded I find it hard to believe that it’s not repairable.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,406 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    Repair the tank? I wouldn’t advise that as a solution. - if it’s degraded to the point that a hole exists somewhere that is letting water in it is likely that the rest of it isn’t far behind.



  • Registered Users Posts: 684 ✭✭✭blackvalley


    You do see where I remarked that “ unless it’s an old steel tank and badly corroded “



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,275 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    I wouldn't advise repairing a plastic tank either.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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