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New A2 House Is Freezing!

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13

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  • Registered Users Posts: 23,348 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Ive seen a very good result on a fairly tricky one off house I'm certifying. it's a double house with flat roof section' block build - needs care but the owner has been watching everything and doing anything he could to prevent issues.

    He got a result of Just under 0.6

    Best I'd seen before was around 0.9



  • Registered Users Posts: 4 Nessys


    Hi @frankiekk, I was curious if you ever got your house sorted and what the issue turned out to be? Buying an A2 house and heard some of the people who moved in late last year got an electric bill of over €900 for 2 months this winter, so thinking I may better check that out.



  • Registered Users Posts: 719 ✭✭✭gandalfio


    Hi. I just bought an A2 rated new build (3 bed semi D, corner house, 113sqm, high wind exposure) and having similar issues to OP.

    Our ATT result is 4.51. The house has central extract mechanical ventilation. I know that 4.51 is an atrocious result. I've highlighted this to the builder and asked for another test to identify where the leaks are, and I've requested a thermal imaging camera survey. The builder replied today to say no to both requests and that as 4.51 is below the maximum of 5, it has therfore passed the test/legal requirements.

    Is there any other avenue we can go down to get the builder to improve the air tightness or is that it? Losing the energy to keep battling them over this...



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,833 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    Your builder is correct; 4.51 is less than 5 so that box gets ticked. He has complied with the b.regs and that is his viewpoint. Not any good to you I know but that's the b.regs for you.

    May I suggest you are wasting your time chasing the builder on this.

    If you are interested in understanding what / where are the issues and how to address then an independent survey is your only real option (and bare in mind your new neighbours are also likely having similar issues).



  • Registered Users Posts: 392 ✭✭grimeire


    thats probably due to Air to water its whats heating the house and uses electricity. Not sure how big the house is but thats normal for most Air to water houses.

    I have friends with A2 rated houses(independently checked) and have bills of over 250 per month with just the heating on 17 degrees for 2 months. no one living in the house or anything. Others have told me that are living in their houses saying bills of over €600 per month. Note these are big house at over 2500 Sq feet.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 33,895 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Is this central mechanical ventilation system reliant on open vents for air supply to it ? I've seen various new builds with central mechanical extract but open vents in key rooms for the air supply. Extract is from wet rooms and centralised single unit with single extract out. Ridiculous system in my view but I'm sure cheap as chips.



  • Registered Users Posts: 719 ✭✭✭gandalfio


    Extract vents connected to the system are in the kitchen, utility room and bathrooms.

    There are open vents in the kitchen, living room and 3 bedrooms. They're not connected/hooked up to the mechanical ventilation system itself. I really don't understand these systems at all. But something isn't right, I suspect now it's inadequate insulation.

    The living room (14.5sqm) for example lost nearly 4 degress of heat overnight from 10.30pm to 8am (19.8 degrees down to 16.2). Left the downstairs thermostat at 16 as a one off just to see what the results would be.



  • Registered Users Posts: 24 igord


    @gandalfio , how did you get that ATT result? Was it a test you arranged after moving in or you got the report from the builder? I'm looking at my A2 BER report and the HLI is 0.992 which is absolutely unbelievable when the house heating used 750 m3 of gas to heat since September to keep close to 20deg C during day.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,127 ✭✭✭Padre_Pio


    My January electricity bill was e250, for two people in an A2 rated 120 sqm house with the heat pump keeping a temperature of approx 21 degrees constantly.

    About half of this was the heatpump.

    I have a wifi energy monitor that shows how the heat pump consumption changes on cold days, so I expect this to go down significantly as the weather improves.

    It pulls about 15kW on a coldest January day and 8kW on the most recent warm days. It takes about 3kW to heat the water tank.

    Buuut.. I don't get oil or gas bills, I don't buy coal or sticks. The house temperature doesn't move from 21. I'm looking at a small solar setup to cover the base load of the house and hopefully knock this bill in half.



  • Registered Users Posts: 719 ✭✭✭gandalfio


    I requested it from the builder after moving in. The test itself was done a couple of weeks before we got the keys.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 392 ✭✭grimeire


    Great insight. Yeah yours is about half the size of my friends house so that could explain the reduced cost but they could be on a high unit price also.

    Can you let me know how many KW units you used for January instead of cost? at my current unit rate i would expect around 1200 units for that price.

    First i heard of this wifi energy monitor. Is it built into the air to water unit or is this a separate device?

    I have my solar setup install but not running yet so cant really comment on it. Its well worth doing especially with the grant but you may not see much of a difference in your winter bills as we get max like 10 hours of sunlight and you know yourself it more bright than sunny. In the summer you will probably more than cover the cost of the air to water but will be sending some or most back to the grid. I think i seen in one of my qoutes that with my setup with 16 panel(6.6KW) system that it will generate 1800 units. I'm not sure is this a generous or conservative amount though.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4 Nessys


    Really helpful thanks! Yes, I believe the new builds now occupied in the estate are about 2x this size, so perhaps the EUR 900 is as reasonable as it can be with these prices currently. Those moving in in Nov/Dec probably also weren't able to lock in to a lower unit rate since electricity providers don't offer the 30% discount anymore. We hope to add solar panels at some point, but realistically, that may need to wait a few years.



  • Registered Users Posts: 746 ✭✭✭Thegalwayman


    I had a retrofit done on a C3 rated house now apparently A2 rated no solar PV but has triple glazed windows and new doors and chimney sealed. Had original cavity bead filled prior to me purchasing it. For the ventilation Superhomes used aereco EHT2 vents DCV which seem very poor to me. I await a first harsh winter but I suspect it’ll be expensive to heat.


    the AirTightness test was done when the house was missing 2 window panes that had broken on installation but I have a report with the “Energy consultants” van photographed at the front of my house. Otherwise to be honest I wouldn’t have trusted it was done as I was at the house at 10am and a tiler I had seperately was there at 930am on the morning that the blower test was done and it was apparently all done prior to that?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,274 ✭✭✭homingbird


    Make a start on filling those holes as no point in having tripple glazing windows & a 9 inch hole alongside them a can of spray foam plaster & cement put back covers over the hole & you should see results.



  • Registered Users Posts: 33,895 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Do not do this unless you've got controlled ventilation.

    Terrible advice.



  • Registered Users Posts: 23,348 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    A2 without mechanical ventilation doesn't compute for me. I'm not saying that the figures don't work because these houses appear to comply but overall it makes no sense as your ventilation will be massively over performing on cold windy days, the exact opposite of what you would like it to do.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,127 ✭✭✭Padre_Pio


    Do not do this. You need to have air moving in your house to keep the humidity down.

    Have a look for Smart Vents, they fit into the hole in the wall and automatically open and blow air into and out of the house based on a thermostat and humidity sensor.



  • Subscribers Posts: 41,477 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    you should see results.

    You will.....


    mould on the walls.

    smells remaining in rooms.

    chest infections.

    asthma.

    possibly carbon dioxide poisoning if in a room with a combustible source, and of course.... possibly death.



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,318 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Those are new to me. Any link to them by any chance?



  • Registered Users Posts: 33,895 ✭✭✭✭listermint




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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,274 ✭✭✭homingbird


    I got the walls of my 1990 house pumped last year & they put those 8 inch holes in the wall in most rooms & i had a constant draught around the house untill i filled them i can leave the windows on the latch if there isnt enough air around it.A LITTLE plactic vent door isnt going to keep the chill out when temp drop.



  • Subscribers Posts: 41,477 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    you had fresh air coming into your house.

    now you have a house which only gets fresh air when you open a window, equating to a very inefficient ventilation method and totally against building regulations.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,274 ✭✭✭homingbird


    How many houses alongside you have these holes in the wall.



  • Registered Users Posts: 23,348 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    You will likely get away with it in a 90s house as there will be uncontrolled drafts from all sorts of places but please put a wall vent in any room with fire or oil burner for your own safety.

    You might say it's been fine for the last 30 years BUT the wall pumping might just reduce drafts from cavity enough to now make your house dangerous for carbon monoxide. Get a carbon monoxide alarm today if you don't have one.



  • Subscribers Posts: 41,477 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    ive no idea why you think that has anything to do with anything.

    are you suggesting every house in the country has filled their ventilation holes with expanding foam?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,274 ✭✭✭homingbird


    To finish this argument take a look at grand design program on channel 4 & tell me how many holes you can spot in there Houses.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,127 ✭✭✭Padre_Pio


    They have proper ventilation.

    I don't like the holes in the wall, it's a cheap method of ventilation I see all too often in newer homes, and it passes air tightness because they're "functional".

    As mentioned, you have a 1990's house, full of air gaps, which is why blocking your vents isn't disasterous. I lived in one for ages and you could feel the drafts coming in the window frame on a windy day.

    My house is new and has mechanical ventilation. I (accidentally) turned it off and the house got very stuffy over the course of a day.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,274 ✭✭✭homingbird


    Just after fitting new windows in my house i am alongside a new housing estate That the houses cost 925 thousand each & are fitted with senator windows that my fitter said are pure muck they come in from eastern europe & fall apart after 2 years so new houses arent built as well as you think.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,274 ✭✭✭homingbird


    To follow up & answer the question your goig to ask me is how does he know this the answer is he used to work for them & used to meet the truck on the way to a job to unload windows as they unloaded windows they used to pull of the stickers off them & put on there own for customers to see.



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