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Heat Pumps - post here.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,497 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    You are logging the outdoor unit as this is where the vast majority of the energy is used. TBH I think the only thing the indoor unit/tank uses is when it goes into the legionalla cycle once a week it uses the emersion for about an hour, mine is 2kW for about an hour one a week.

    Otherwise a 50 amp CT is ok as it will only be drawing at MAX 4-5 kW

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users Posts: 118 ✭✭simpsimp


    Thanks - but in the summer months when the outdoor unit is not working much, if at all, is the indoor unit not heating the water tank?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk




  • Registered Users Posts: 118 ✭✭simpsimp


    That's what I had originally thought, but in summer, I see no electricity usage on the outdoor unit.... But maybe the Daikin data is hiding things from me! All the more reason to install the energy monitor, thanks.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,729 ✭✭✭deezell


    I agree with everything except the heat pumps. They're a bomb waiting to go off. Maintenance cost, running costs, and no grant to replace when it dies in ten years, like running an extra car. And the electricity they use is 80% generated from fossil fuels ffs. Just burn the gas in a small cheap efficient boiler in the home.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,958 ✭✭✭circadian


    It doesn't really matter if they're fuelled by fossil fuels. If the house is suitable for one then they're still more energy efficient than gas or oil, if you've got solar etc then it's almost a no brainier in the right scenario.


    Heat pumps have been in use foe decades in Canada and Scandinavia, they're a well understood system in general.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,729 ✭✭✭deezell


    One of the biggest lies. Ten Kw of gas turns into 9.7 Kw of heat and HW consistently in your simple inexpensive long lasting and small gas boiler.

    10Kw of gas burned in a gas turbine generator produces maybe 3kw of electricity, grid losses to your Heatpump and heat pump losses another 10-15% . You're left with maybe 2.6Kw into the compressor, with a Cop of three if its a warmish day, 2 and a bit on a cold one, so you get maybe 7.5kw out, maybe 6kw. This is low water temperature heat, very slow to warm a house, and unless you have a 12kw input heat pump, you won't have the level of output heat of even the smaller gas boilers to bring a typical Irish 80s house up to warmth quickly. Many people still only heat their homes in bursts, or a few rooms at a time. Heat pumps only work when your home is insulated to within an inch of its life, as in Scandinavia etc. Then its possible using a low kw input heat pump to gradually bring the entire home to a comfortable temperature and maintain it without going bankrupt. A 12kw heatpump costs €5 an hour to run at current daytime rates, and as much as €7/hr on some of the smart peak evening rates. Heatpumps require hugely insulated homes, and huge radiators or eye wateringly expensive UFH to even begin to make sense. Houses in Ireland are not insulated properly, and A rated new houses are an illusion, the rating gained by sleight of hand and statistics, while icy draughts whistle in your vents and down the back of you drywall.

    And no-one seems to factor in the huge overhead of standing charges on electricity. I only pay for my CH oil. If its unused during the summer. It costs nothing. If I burn a litre, I get almost 10kw of HW from my condenser boiler for €1.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    The standing charge on electric is irrelevant. You need it for your oil central heating.

    Most gas boilers aren't that efficient, usually oversized and not set up correctly, they work but usually not in condensing mode (return temperature too high).

    The same with oil, if your return temperature isn't low enough(zoned too tightly, not big enough radiators) it also doesn't get into condensing mode



    The COP of heatpumps is calculated after all losses 1kWh in, you get 3-5kWh of heat out.

    they are pushing 4-5 in the lower temperature ones, the high temperature ones(r290, propane as the working fluid) are getting 3 at 55c + now.

    But if someone was to ask me if they should get one, I would say to focus on the house first and make your current heating work to the best of its ability first.

    I have an 80's house, and can heat it all from a 12kW stove. Still plan on pumping the walls which should reduce the heat load even more. If I let it get cold it does take a while to get everything back up but easily can maintain it even in -4 conditions. I am also near the cost so even hitting -4 is super rare.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,958 ✭✭✭circadian


    Like I said, if the house is suitable. Anyone recommending a HP in an 80's build should not be trusted.



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    It just comes down to how much heat you need; you should already have an understanding of this based on your oil or gas usage. Then it just comes down to how cheep you can source the electricity to power the heat pump. In most cases it works out better financially in the long term to stick with the oil or gas at the moment.

    Most people would be better off spending money on increasing the insulation and or air tightness of their homes and sticking with oil or gas for now.

    The extreme end of this is if you can install enough solar and battery storage (30KWh at least) that would be dedicated to powering your heatpump during the winter months. This is my goal; but it’s a long way off.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 55 ✭✭plasterman


    Got the technical assessment done, and I know it's a long time since it changed, relatively, but when I finally get quotes in and get the work done which was going to precede the installation of a new pump - I find the SEAI no longer provide the heat pump grant for houses which have an existing pump. They changed it in January I think. A 6k kick in the nuts is not a nice thing to receive first thing on a Monday. Only paid for the technical assessment based on the SEAI information, which checking the wayback machine changed without warning earlier this year.



  • Registered Users Posts: 191 ✭✭Curiousness99


    I wonder what the story is if you got the assessment done before the SEAI changed course, seems very unfair if one got the ball rolling before they changed the criteria to avail of the grant. Always try to avoid going the legal route but 6k is a lot of money.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    its ridiculous. Apparently some crowd in Kildare screwed up an estate with 100 pumps. Told the occupants after a year or so to apply for grant and the pumps were all pulled out and redone, rinsing the tax payer- regarded as a total abuse of the system by the organisation involved, and others in the industry are unimpressed. The result is SEAI slamming the door on genuine cases.

    the big issue with no grant for replacement is grants drive prices up, so replacement candidates are not playing in a free market, and government should have at least a partial payment as a result. People will start sticking in gas boilers to replace heat pumps if they are being asked to pay 10-15k, up to 20 odd for larger systems.

    😎



  • Registered Users Posts: 55 ✭✭plasterman


    Tbf it's taken me a long time but I've got an upgraded electricity supply, groundworks and some extra insulation installed pretty much based on the fact that grant was there waiting. Wouldn't mind if there was notice but seems to have happened overnight earlier this year.

    As the next poster says right now I'm calculating how much that 6500 will go vis a vis oil or gas.



  • Registered Users Posts: 191 ✭✭Curiousness99


    It’s actually 6750 in total as you get a contribution for the technical assessment too😫



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,231 ✭✭✭bullpost


    That's the elephant in the room.

    Nobody looking at a plan B for the large number of houses that this will not suit, and those who cannot afford or justify the investment.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,729 ✭✭✭deezell


    Research evidence in the UK suggest that COP of 3.5 is barely reached by super insulated almost passive homes, and well less than 3 for average homes. I smile when I see enthusiasts mentioning COP of 5. That's a nonsense figure, which would require the return flow to be virtually chilled before entering the condenser. Once homes feel cold people turn up the stat, causing the heatpump to churn away, adding extra heat to the flow almost exclusively from the energy of extra consumed electricity. Some heatpumps even have an immersion element for HW! Don't tell Des Bishop that.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,865 ✭✭✭hold my beer


    Heatpumps are class in a new build. That's all I have to add.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    This guy, runs openenergymonitor, knows his stuff, done a DIY of a heatpump in a Victorian end terrace. Cop of 4.9

    Over the last 365 days he's on a COP of 4.2,

    the key is being installed/configured properly. You can get away with bad installs with gas, they just turn up the flow temperature to compensate. When gas was cheap it didn't matter. Now, not so much. It's still at least 2x of what it used to be



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,454 ✭✭✭DC999


    I watched that guy after you sent on the link. He’s a legend and he’s really a ‘give anything a try DIY-er’. He’s not a trade professional. Ok, he’s much more capable than me but he shows how it can be done.

    His house is small, old and poorly insulated (same as ours) in UK and he gets a savagely good COP. He runs it’s at a very low temp. Which is why his COP is so high. He showed me they can work in old and cold houses, once there is a lot of understanding on how they work and some ‘adjustments’ people are willing to accept. He added 3 rads to his sitting room – which not everyone will want as looks ugly and takes up space. But in his world he favours a high COP and well heated home over style (of a traditional 1 rad in a living room).

    But I’d agree with people that adding a heatpump to a typical old and cold house would be bad if people treated it like a gas boiler. It would be very expensive to run and likely a very cold house. 

    Mod note (graememk), Tidied things up a bit.

    Post edited by DC999 on


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,776 ✭✭✭thomas 123


    Thoughts on the following heat pump for a 2000sqft bungalow - https://www.heatmerchants.ie/panasonic-aquarea-9kw-j-generation-high-performance-mono-bloc-unit-u27640


    Underfloor heating, well insulated to a2 standard.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,024 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    9kW should be more than enough in a well insulated house that size. Was the UFH designed for a particular heating source.

    It can also cool which is a nice option to have.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,776 ✭✭✭thomas 123


    Yes, the system has been designed together if that makes sense. Just wanted to run it by the well informed here to see was there any red flags or horror stories with this unit!



  • Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭rowantree18


    Lived in Finland in the late 80s, a bit in the 90s and for 2 years recently. I remember going in the 80s and being fascinated at how their houses were warm and dry ALL the time. Not shivering until after 6pm when it was put on for an hour and turned off just as you were beginning to thaw. The heat pump technology enthralled me.

    Live in a new build here, house always warm, dry, comfy. I pay one bill (electricity obviously) bimonthly - usually 180e, 200e/year for maintenance and am happy out. I want to be warm at home, not wearing feckin aran jumpers. Watching TV in my knickers is more me.

    It's the constance of the temperature and the comfort more than whether it's economical which suits me.

    I also think we Irish are stingy about heat as if they feel its something you shouldn't need to pay for. They'll spend 200e on a night out and live in a freezer.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,729 ✭✭✭deezell


    I originally brought up heatpumps in this forum to alert readers that they are primarily powered by fossil fuels, at great infrastructure cost at either end of the chain. The other reason which should be self evident is the notion beloved of eco greens that it is somehow viable to operate a heat pump from domestic stored solar. You might easily consume 60 to 100kwh of gas or oil daily in the winter months, which would translate into 20 to 33 kwh of live/stored solar energy to a heatpump per day, IF a cop of 3 is achieved. For this you'll need probably €60,000 worth of solar plant, and 150m2 of panels. It's just not possible unless you have a very large garden, and a big wallet.

    This is a more realistic assessment of COP than a single experimental tale. https://housingevidence.ac.uk/the-great-heat-pump-mystery-wheres-the-cop/#:~:text=values%20experienced%20in%20real%2Dworld,number%20%E2%80%93%20based%20on%20laboratory%20tests.

    I agree that Heat pump discussion here is of no relevance to domestic solar. Solar is absent when heat pump demand is greatest, in the winter, at night. They're almost mutually exclusive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    Any heat source would be class in a new build as long as it’s built well and airtight.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,062 ✭✭✭afatbollix


    Looking at buying a place with a very old gas system that will need to be ripped out. I'm looking at heat pumps to replace. I will get some solar panels in the near future but in the winter that's not going to work.

    For the winter I'd rather use the nighttime rate, For 6 hours I get it cheap enough.

    Would a heat pump be able to heat a tank over night which it could release during the day for the radiators? Even if I was able to use it for 8 hours would help.

    I would also heat a different hot water tank during this time for showers/hot taps.

    Also can they be connected to an air-con system for use in the summer?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Parking the sizing and insulation etc aside

    if you have the space and how handy you are.. and willing to spend the time to configure it yourself, as it would be a non standard install.

    Also depends on how hot the heatpump can go and willing to make the trade off in efficiency, how low can you cycle that tank down to.

    Talking reasonable hp temperatures, possibly max of 60,

    If you could cycle a 500L tank from 60c to 30c is about 17kwh of heat. Which possibly only used 5-7kwh to heat. So to run a house for a full day, you'd need 1000? 1500?

    Don't get me wrong, It's very doable and with the right configuration and control it possibly could work very well. Looking into something along the lines myself.

    If trying to run on night rate, if you had ufh is pre heat tha higher in the early morning and then back off a bit on the stat for the rest of the day.

    Then go all in on battery storage to run on night rate.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,729 ✭✭✭deezell


    What you're talking about is a buffer tank. You can get them with heat exchanger built in, or even an internal direct hot water cylinder, which seperates the sealed heating circuit water from the tap hot water. The only issue would be the maximum temperature output from a heat pump, it wouldn't make for thd highest volume of energy storage.

    A fairly large 1500l tank would not store a huge deal of heat either. A 1500 litre tank heated from 20° to 55° stores 1500x35x4180 Joules, which is just under 61Kwh, so depending on what your home requires as input to maintain a comfortable temperature after the night rate, 61kwh should be good for three or more hours. It would be important to circulate it slowly from top to bottom, so that the maximum temperature fluid rises in the tank, replaced by the fully cooled return underneath, helping to to keep the hot flow temperature as high as possible for a steady heating performance until the heat pump kicks in.

    Flow rate of 8.5 l/minute would move the entire tank through the system in three hours. Buffer tanks are 0 not commonly used here domestically, more likely in commercial plant where heat recovery from waste water and other sources is used to resupply HW and CH. Some big hotels also use the principle. Design and integration of such a tank requires a good bit of heating knowledge, but you could Google some domestic designs.

    Stashing away 60kwh of hot water from a COP3 heatpump using 20kwh electricity input at night rate, of say 20c/kwh will cost €4, which is about €2 less than 60kwh ffrom an oil boiler.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,024 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    I think you would be better off to buy some batteries and an inverter. Charge these at night rate and let the heat pump run during the day when needed. But do your DHW at night.

    The size of buffer tanks being mentioned are very large and probably expensive.

    Plus the batteries will save on your other day rate consumption also.



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