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Heat Pumps - post here.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 876 ✭✭✭keno-daytrader


    They had some crazy auto setting on that was optimized for rads, where as I have underfloor. (Even if I had rads this setting made flow temps way to high) This is the standard settings on the Ecodan 🤬.

    In the beginning my heat pump ate electricity, so I decided to learn my particular heat pump controls and general heat pump mechanics and ufh in general.

    After a few days of tweaking I couldn't believe the difference in electricity consumed.

    ☀️ 6.72kWp ⚡2.52kWp south, ⚡4.20kWp west



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,728 ✭✭✭deezell


    Once you bring the heat pump flow temperature up past anything approaching hand hot, your heatpump is little more than an immersion heater.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,169 ✭✭✭Padre_Pio


    My one was set up by the installer for a Swedish winter.

    The house was new build, so I presume it was to dry out the house.



  • Registered Users Posts: 876 ✭✭✭keno-daytrader


    My hot water is set to 48c and still gives a COP of 2.6, my underfloor heating flow temp is between 25-28c and gives a cop of 3.74.

    I understand you are a dead set against heat pumps for some unknown reason.

    I live in the real world and these are real world numbers from my house.

    A little bit of self education and knowledge goes a long way.

    Peace 😁

    ☀️ 6.72kWp ⚡2.52kWp south, ⚡4.20kWp west



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,454 ✭✭✭DC999


    Wow, nearly a COP of 4 - that's unreal. Appreciate you posting the stats. I don't have a heatpump but will in time. And I'm learning even old and cold houses (like ours) can use them, it's just about having that low flow temp. Gonna need more heating surface in a colder house, but can still work



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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,169 ✭✭✭Padre_Pio


    Mine is regularly above 4, even in winter.

    Total power consumption in Feb was about 230kW and delivered a little under 1000kW.

    March was 300 consumed and over 1200kW delivered.


    DHW is set to peak of 45C and flow temp is usually between 26 and 29 degrees, depending on the outside temperature.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Looking at the spec sheets of some heatpumps and the R32 heatpumps can get fantastic COP at lower temperatures but fall off badly at higher temperatures (and space heating is usually the biggest end of heat demand anyway) so perfect for underfloor etc.

    The R290 ones (propane) can't match the performance at the lower temperatures but do better at higher temperatures (getting a cop of 3+ with water at 55, air at 7)

    It's not even one size fits all for heatpump selection either.

    Hopefully others will look at what you done and even looked at the settings/consumption of the heatpump



  • Registered Users Posts: 876 ✭✭✭keno-daytrader


    Thats really good. I looked at mine for those months.

    Feb22 195 consumed, generated 763 3.91 cop

    March22 66 consumed, generated 252 3.82 cop

    Feb23 45 consumed, generated 190 4.22 cop

    March23 17 consumed, generated 70 4.12 cop

    I found this winter to be warm so didnt use near what we used in 2022.

    These numbers are for house set at 21.5c and doesnt include hot water.

    ☀️ 6.72kWp ⚡2.52kWp south, ⚡4.20kWp west



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    What was the before numbers? Do you have them? So curious



  • Registered Users Posts: 876 ✭✭✭keno-daytrader


    Yes, before I took the heatpump off "standard" settings, my ufh heating cop was 2.6's 😮 and kWh were almost double what they are now. So with tweaking, my cop rose to almost 4 and consumption of electricity halved.

    On the default settings my flow temp would be between 35c-45c. Just bizarre for underfloor heating.

    So I can understand some of the horror stories people have about heat pumps. One just has to be proactive and educate themselves a small bit. Or read Boards 😁

    ☀️ 6.72kWp ⚡2.52kWp south, ⚡4.20kWp west



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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,169 ✭✭✭Padre_Pio


    Bizarre for UFH in an A-rated home, but normal for a C rated home. That's what our gas boiler used to output.

    My COP includes DHW and it's crazy what an increase in just a few degrees will do to efficiency.


    A heat pump is far more complex than a boiler ran from a timer, and not a single person in my estate got any instruction how to use it. We moved in December 22 and they were raving about how fantastically warm their houses were, until they started getting bills...



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,876 ✭✭✭Borzoi


    The Ecodan is made by Mitsubishi Electric, who have an office and sizeable support team in Dublin, and have had for over 30 years.

    Samsung do not



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Did you have to do the same and change the settings?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    Are you running it constantly or on off ? Last winter, first winter in the house i ran it on off with stats with loads of zones in my bungalow. After researching im going to open all loops and run from say 5am-9pm with over night set back. I also lowered my flow temp on the weather compensation graph as regularly it was giving 40deg flow temp, had big bills so hoping this winter will be much better. Think my commissioner didn't give a **** about my bills.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,169 ✭✭✭Padre_Pio


    Yeah, I spent a few days tweaking the compensation curve back when we moved in.

    As it stands I had to tweak it twice so far, once at the start of summer to turn ithe heat down (almost off entirely) and again this month turn turn it back up.

    As it stands it's set to heat to 29 at -5 outside, and 24 at 20 outside. My cop for the year so far is 4.2.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    29 at minus 5 is very very good, Dont think i would get near that. My original wcc was 44 at -3. Just wondering do you have a lot of short loops in your house. Was thinking maybe my loops are longer,but doubt in a highly insulated new 242sqm bungalow i would get near that flow temp. Is house heating to 21deg?



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,169 ✭✭✭Padre_Pio


    120sqm semi d, so half the size of your house.

    UFH on ground floor and rads on second floor.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    Yeah maybe the longer loops require more floe temperature so, waiting to trial my new curve when weather gets colder, think i have it 38 at -5, hope that will get house to 21.



  • Registered Users Posts: 876 ✭✭✭keno-daytrader


    Our house is 210sqm and there are a few long loops, and 28c is the highest flow temp we need. I think you can do much better than 38c. Fingers crossed 😁

    ☀️ 6.72kWp ⚡2.52kWp south, ⚡4.20kWp west



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,419 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Pipe spacing in the loops is a key factor

    What are yours: not just Keno but others

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    yeah waiting for next cold day to try curve. Its 38 at -5 so 33 or less above freezing. Just think my plumber should have put in more loops. Have 17 but got design spec and it had 26 but plumber said it was over speeced and too many short loops and waste of pipe. Rather he stuck to unitherms designs as shorter loops heat better. Do you leave pump on all day man?


    Calahonda, 150mm spacing.



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    Plumber definitely knew better than the person designing the system from the manufacturer…

    Just making the job simpler for him. Less loops; less terminations in the manifold; less places to leak…

    Did you agree to let him cut corners?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    only found out 6 months after installation when i went to manufacturer for commissiong cert and they showed me loop plan with 26 ports, wasnt happy but nothing icould do. Im just thinking its why i need higher flow temp which will cost me money extra money forever thats pissing off.



  • Registered Users Posts: 876 ✭✭✭keno-daytrader


    always on ,but set back at 7pm, on again at 9am. House will lose .5c overnight on a very cold night. I tried it both ways but found set back was the best method (most economical) for our house. 1st winter was trial and error until we found the right balance.

    Spacing is 150mm and all loops fully open downstairs. No heating on upstairs, so 1 zone.

    ☀️ 6.72kWp ⚡2.52kWp south, ⚡4.20kWp west



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    There must be some consequences for him not installing per the plans. You paid for something you didn’t get.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    At the end of the day, the heating is working, im not going to be tearing up floors to add loops and not going getting into a long court battle or something over it. More important things to care about i suppose. I havent tried always on method yet with overnight setback so im going to try this my 2nd winter and see how all goes.



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap



    It works; but not as designed. Which will result in your spending a lot more money to run the system over its lifetime. I’d definitely get my solicitor onto him; he should be accountable for his actions.

    I hope you manage to get the system optimized.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,497 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    All this talk about COPs it got me thinking and I was a bit board so I hit up Grafana and downloaded my Heat pump power usage for the last year and a bit and see could I plot the COP of my heat pump sucessfully. Anyway this is what I came up with and if its correct its very interesting in that the COP of the unit is lower during the summer months that the winter.....🤔

    My initial toughts are that the HP is during the summer its heating the DHW and it has to work harder to reach the higher temps but during the cold months most of the work id space heating (eg underfloor) which is a lot lower than the DHW.

    The chart below is the average daily COP but its based of 5 min data (excel was giving out with 1min data..) i discounted any 5 min data points with power input below 3000w as this was the unit ramping up and if I didnt do this then I was getting crazy COPs. My unit is a 12kW output Samsung Joule unit.

    Just a qucik check with you people, to calculate the COP its bascially the power output/power input and you assume the unit when on is outputting 12 kW in my case. Just to make sure my sums are right??

    The red line is the moving 7 day average just to smooth out the up and downs.

    Winter COP 3.0 to 3.4 nearly and summer around 2.9

    Thoughts


    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,497 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    For added context here is my daily moving 7 day average consumption for the HP over the same period

    I live in an A1 rated house with 4 adults.


    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



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  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    What temp do you have your hot water set to?


    your heat pump prob breaks down the COP by heating and DHW. The average of the two should result in the number from your calcs.



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