First thing I'd recommend is to bore scope the barrel. Make sure there is pitting and also check the chamber for damage, fire cracking, pitting, etc. also have your crown checked.

No point in jumping into rebarrel territory when it may not be the cause. In short, identify a problem before moving forward.

Next and a close second to the first thing, is to check it's the gun and not you. Firing a couple of shots at a target at an unknown distance, off sticks or some other unstable shooting position will tell you nothing. You need a stable platform, and above all else repeatability.

This recent thread goes into a lot of detail that may be helpful.

Things you can do before going and getting the gun checked by a Smith include:

• Strip it down. I mean right down. Scope, rings, suppressor, bolt, etc. and clean everything thoroughly. I've a detailed guide on cleaning here.
• Reassemble the rifle, scope, etc. Take your time with the reassembly and torque all screws in the correct order and correct torque setting.
• Check your scope is correctly set up. Parallax is a huge cause of problems and most don't think to check for it. I've done this myself, forgot to check for it, and ended up chasing non existent problems. You can check parallax by reading this post. No harm to check for mechanical centring.
• Have a stable, usually prone, shooting position with steady front and rear rest. No bipods, or holding the butt of the stock by hand.
• Test fire the rifle without the suppressor on. Always do this to eliminate the suppressor as a cause. You can mount the suppressor when the checks are complete and if the rifle is firing fine.

If you do all this and have problems then move onto going to a competent smith to have it bore scoped, and checked. Then you'll know how best to proceed. Might only need a top and tail. Such repair work, and even a rebarrel.should be cheaper than buying a donor rifle and still having to pay for the work to change the barrels plus the donor rifle will be an unknown in terms of shots fired, condition, history, etc.

Wow, times have changed. My last barrel cost €725 all in, and that was a 32" fluted Bartlein. Granted I didn't blue it as I prefer stainless barrels for ease of cleaning and resistance to elements.

To be honest you'd pick up a decent second hand rifle for the same money. Might be time to consider a change of gun.

You could claim a little back by stripping the Tikka and parting off. Or use it as a trade.

Long ago. Long, long ago. So no longer there.

Stainless is also a little nicer, appearance wise.

Same as importing a firearm, get the licence with the right caliber, apply for an import permit from the DoJ with a front and back of your licence, wait 1-2 weeks and you get your import permit in the post.

Send that to the exporter of the barrel, they will get an export permit on their side, and send you the barrel with copies of the import and export permit enclosed when the export is approved.