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Tiling repair

  • 14-11-2023 11:23am
    #1
    Nigzcurran
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭


    Hi I've just removed the old tiles and the wall is in a bad way, what's the easiest/cheapest way to tidy the wall up before I put up the new tiles? And what should I do with that old unused socket that was hidden behind the tiles? Thanks.



Comments

  • #2
    Nigzcurran
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭Nigzcurran


    1699961325492830640315069575302.jpg

    Sorry some pics attached

    20231114_112028.jpg
    20231114_112016.jpg




  • #3
    10-10-20
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,073 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Kitchen area, right?



  • #4
    10-10-20
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,073 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    If you can knock-back the adhesive until it's sound and then tile over it, then that's your answer. Otherwise I'd be looking at replacing that plasterboard so that you have a flat surface to work off and a good key.

    That socket needs to be taken care of (as does the lower one too), it's an electrical junction at the end of the day so it's not supposed to be hidden behind a tile. You could look at getting it rewired to remove the junction or you could look at replacing the screw-connections (connection block) with an maintenance-free junction instead, or you could put a blanking plate over it so that at least you can still get access to it if needed. One of the electrical guys can advise whether you can tile over a maintenance-free junction.



  • #5
    Nigzcurran
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭Nigzcurran


    Sorry yep kitchen area, the bottom socket was used by an electrician to connect an outside socket to, it's usually hidden at the back of the oven. Could I use a thin sheet of ply/ hardboard to cover the existing plasterboard and tile direct onto that?



  • #6
    10-10-20
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,073 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Thin ply/hardboard will warp over time if it's not very well adhered. It will also affect your levels, which may or may-not be an issue for you. If levels aren't an issue then the other option is a 4mm tile backer board...

    https://www.goodwins.ie/products/Botament-Tile-Backer-Board-4mm-1.2-x-0.6mtr.html?filter_set%5B%5D=5160,6321

    This would need to be secured too, but not as much as wood based product.



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  • #7
    Nigzcurran
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭Nigzcurran


    Cheers they look like a great idea, it's only a 2qm splash back area diy job so levels aren't too important, I just need a fairly flat smooth surface to tile to as my tiling wouldn't be great! I'll do a bit of research into seeing if a blanking plate is possible for that old socket



  • #8
    rob316
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,420 ✭✭✭✭rob316


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121366580#Comment_121366580

    An wall out of plumb or level for tiling will make the job inherently more difficult I guarantee you. I'd be boarding up that wall to make sure its plumb and straight.

    Get some plasterboard, wet the back lightly, then spray with expanding foam and flattening it out with your level. Rock hard in about 30 mins ready to tile.



  • #9
    10-10-20
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,073 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121366880#Comment_121366880

    Brave. 😀 I've seen the unwanted effects of expanding foam like that. If I was going down that route I'd still be securing the board with screws, otherwise the foam will keep expanding for around 30 mins.



  • #10
    awec
    Administrators Posts: 54,424 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    Maybe this is me being silly but would it not be just as easy to do the job right and rip that old board out and re-slab that small bit of wall?



  • #11
    10-10-20
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,073 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121367086#Comment_121367086

    On the basis of the stated contractual clause of "easiest/cheapest", I went with that as being the second/non-preferred option! ;)



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  • #12
    Nigzcurran
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭Nigzcurran


    Yeah I'd love to do it right but I'm terrified if I rip the old board off I'll end up in a worse predicament. I've got 2 working sockets on the other wall so I'd like to avoid disturbing those if at all possible so those tile backer boards look the easiest job for my skill levels. I'm definitely not even touching expanding foam!



  • #13
    embracingLife
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 410 ✭✭embracingLife


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121366965#Comment_121366965

    Are you not aware of the special type of foam called "plasterboard adhesive"? It's readily available mostly in building providers and is specific for this exact job. It only can be used with the separate applicator gun. Follow the instructions on the can by spraying the foam onto the plasterboard but then wait 5 minutes to allow the air to escape from the foam, then attach the board to the wall. Only need to hold the board in place for a minute or so and then it's permanently stuck.

    I used this type of foam countless times in numerous jobs including bathrooms and to this day these sheets including the tiles that are on it have never moved. I've used it in my own bathroom and several years later the tiles are still perfect.

    Obviously the jobs you have seen didn't use the correct foam.



  • #14
    10-10-20
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,073 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121383870#Comment_121383870

    Waffle! Plasterboard adhesive expands beyond the 5 mins and I have seen it continue to expand up to 30. Multiple brands used. The only way to be sure that it doesn't knock the plasterboard out of alignment is to secure it afterwards using mushroom nails or plasterboard screws.



  • #15
    10-10-20
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,073 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058322538/tiling-repair

    How did it pan-out in the end anyway OP?



  • #16
    Nigzcurran
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭Nigzcurran


    Sorry it's still a work in progress! I got those backing boards in Goodwin's and a blanking plate for that unused socket, stuck 6mm tile trims on with the backing boards but was a terrible idea so they got pulled back off and replaced with 12mm trims, still not right but ill hopefully be able to hide all my mistakes a bit with the grout

    20231115_134621.jpg
    20231116_183603.jpg
    20231117_155541.jpg




  • #17
    Nigzcurran
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭Nigzcurran


    No idea why the pics are uploading sideways



  • #18
    10-10-20
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,073 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Lookin' good!



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