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Loader Bale Handling

  • 13-12-2023 4:23pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭


    Hi Folks

    Looking for some implements for handling bales in both seasons and was think it was getting just a plain bale spike and then a soft hands bale lifter just wondering what people have and use. I was thinking off going quickie as there the best made i'v seen but there also the most expensive.


    What do lads think of either of these types would the 2spikes be the better for lifting bales or would the 3spikes give more control? I will be spiking the bales in there sides as its a double passage way. The felming type is roughly 400 and the quickie is 450? any any experience with either type?

    For the soft hands I was thinking of either of the quickie ones

    There is only 200 euros between the different types with the uni grip 1550 and flexigrip 1750 roughly? Any one got these I was leading towards the flexigrip as you can lock one of the sides? What do others have or does anyone have these ones and have any feedback?



«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,327 ✭✭✭✭Donald Trump


    You might as well look at the bale slices for feeding out. You can get 60% under TAMS but the reference cost is relatively low. Some of the lighter looking ones are around the reference cost though.


    IFJ has a list of makes and prices


    If you are looking to handle wrapped bales during the summer, JM Agri's TR3 is very good. Will be a good bit more expensive than the soft hands though


    The main advantage of the old roller types is that you can take the pipes off for handling straw or hay. The price difference between them wouldn't be enough on it's own to convince me to get one over the likes of the TR3. Have no experience of the soft hands types.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭limo_100


    I would be interested in a bale slice but not this year I just want something nice and handy for this year to get me out as I have enough spend this year 🤣 🤣

    on the tr3 handler this kind of handler would not suit me for stacking bales of hay into a shed.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,416 ✭✭✭emaherx


    The main advantage of the old roller types is that you can take the pipes off for handling straw or hay. The price difference between them wouldn't be enough on it's own to convince me to get one over the likes of the TR3. Have no experience of the soft hands types.

    I have one of the pipe type and don't really like it for spiking bales, I find the tines too long, probably because my canopy's over the feed barriers are a bit low. I use a simple home made spike for feeding it's lighter and can usually just be left on the tractor doing most other jobs without being in the way.

    I find the pipe type OK for handling bales during the summer but would prefer either of the soft hands or elephant trunk as I could fit a few more bales on the trailer.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,327 ✭✭✭✭Donald Trump



    Might depend on the make. The roller type one here is fairly old but the spikes underneath the rollers are quite short. I wouldn't be using it to handle bales of silage in the winter as I think they might be likely to fall off the end (or else go in bits if handling them with net only after the plastic is cut off)

    Trunk is a better job though. I don't know how the soft hands works as regards packing tightly side-to-side on a trailer but never had an issue getting the trunk back down down the centre between the bales. There would always be enough of a gap in behind them no matter how tight you thought you had them.


    You would want to be confident (and justifiably so) before making up anything to handle silage bales. Especially if you are going to be out walking around them cutting plastic or net off them. I'm sure you are yourself, but I wouldn't be recommending it in general to the average punter.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,416 ✭✭✭emaherx


    I use a soft hands too, belonging to the in-laws, no issue packing trailer tight with it but I don't have a high back or front rack an the trailer so end bales can be grabbed at a slight angle (not perpendicular to the trailer) and work back to front or vice versa when loading / unloading. I've never used the trunk type but believe its the business.

    Wasn't really advising on making one, but that's what it is and has handles 10's of thousands of bales without issue and made of stronger stuff than the one's pictured above. I'd never walk under a raised bale of silage full stop regardless of who made the implement!



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,424 ✭✭✭Grueller


    I bought a tr3 from jm agri last summer. €1950 inc vat direct from jm agri. I love it. I haven't even dreamt of taking out the roller since.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,047 ✭✭✭mr.stonewall


    Snap on that, it's super. Loaded bales for a chap that was buying a few wraps and he was delighted with no spike holes. Handy to work with odd shaped bales. Anyone who has a trunk handler I know would not go back to anything else



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭limo_100


    They look great alright but only issue is stacking bales into the shed 3 high Id get it caught in the roof and would have to stack it 2 high only



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,424 ✭✭✭Grueller


    You won’t be stacking wrapped bales in the shed. Use the bale spike for the hay and straw.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,047 ✭✭✭mr.stonewall


    Stacking bales of hay or straw in the shed I just use the old tine grab. Just do a quick tot on how many wraps you handle a year and you won't be long making your mind up. See if any neighbours have one and ask to see it in action



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 103 ✭✭Mr..


    Have a soft hands here and its handy for putting bales in a round feeder, take net and plastic off in yard and then no getting out at feeder.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭limo_100


    I have never seen one of them around our area at all its all soft hands at the moment



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭limo_100


    Would the bale not fall apart while carrying it over to the feeder?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 226 ✭✭farmerphil135


    I did have one yes. Good job but hard to explain till you’ve used it. Johnstons we’re selling them for 1250 the week of Black Friday don’t know what they are now



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,271 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,047 ✭✭✭mr.stonewall


    Have used them all. Have an old Rossmore roller type which should be on done deal sooner, borrowed the soft hands of a neighbour and will only used the trunk type handling bales and stacking now. When feeding them, it's just the tine grab and take the hassle of hopping up and down opening them in the passageway. I have no round feeders but what some guys locally do is cut the plastic of the end of the bale and drop it in then pull it up over the bale. One chap even flicks the plastic off with the tines of the grab



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,327 ✭✭✭✭Donald Trump



    Some say you can damage the soft drives on the loaders by having it turned on when carrying a heavy load.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 103 ✭✭Mr..


    @limo_100 forgot to mention theyre not chopped.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,416 ✭✭✭emaherx


    But who are some to say?

    I leave it on all the time, probably more likely to break something the more you use it alright, but what's the worst that could happen? Burst accumulator? I'd take the chances with that if it's saving some wear and tear on me the operator.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,327 ✭✭✭✭Donald Trump



    The accumulator can burst......but more likely is that the pressure in them just goes and they become useless anyway.

    Some loader manufacturers tell you explicitly to turn it off when under load, and others appear to advertise along the lines of "makes your travel smoother even when under heavy load" or similar.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,416 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Either way it would take a lot to kill one and cost about €60 - €150 euro for the replacement part. So I'd just leave it on.

    If it has just lost pressure then re-pressurize it.

    Post edited by emaherx on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,327 ✭✭✭✭Donald Trump


    Can you re-pressurize them yourself? We have one here that I'd say would need to be done. I can't see us getting any part for 60-150 Euro ............ had to replace the headstock on it a year or two ago and it cost about 1500 or something!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,416 ✭✭✭emaherx


    You can in theory, you'd need the pre-charge kit and a bottle of nitrogen and know the right pre -charge for the vessels and the risks involved in working with pressurized gas.

    But for one it's probably safer and more cost effective to get someone who services hydraulic systems to do it.

    Here's a new one for €124 from an Irish supplier, cheaper ones could be got if you are willing to wait but there's always the quality concerns with them. I'm sure genuine from the loader manufacturers will be more.

    No idea if that would suit your machine, typically they have a volume and pressure rating. Bigger machines may have larger vessels which could cost more but are probably also less likely to fail from carrying a bale or 2.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭limo_100


    Just checking in is anyone in the market for a soft hands I am gonna buy one in the next week or so. Had a look at a few of them Fleming, nugent, rossmore, inter tech them seem ok maybe a shade light and are on the cheaper side of the scale at 1200-1400.

    Then looked at quickie unigrip, mchales and Cashels there is not a lot between the the mchales and Cashels would go with the Cashels as there bale handling equipment is very good I find it excellent. I need to have a look at the hustlers one but I'm now down to hustler, Cashels and quickie flexigrip. Any one any experience of any of these 3 or have I excluded any better ones?

    Just to note I did seriously consider the elephant trunks Cashels and tr3 and are very impressive machines but I have low roofs and the hands would just work better for me.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 651 ✭✭✭Fine Day


    I have a Nugent here for the last 6 or 7 years. I find it the finest. I use it for feeding too so it so it's on a good bit.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭limo_100


    Will do no problem. what are you leaning towards at the moment?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭limo_100


    That's good to know I must take another look at that so. does it even nick a bale on ya? I heard the older flemings use to nick bales but I'm sure that's resolved now



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,084 ✭✭✭kevthegaff


    I had a soft hands, gona go with a tr3. Who's the best to make them



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭limo_100


    Yeah it looks great in fairness just doesn't suit what I want to do with it low roofs and stacking bales on there end in the yard the lack of turning the bale through 90degrees would slow me down



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,528 ✭✭✭Dunedin


    how much is the nugent one these days?

    I have a nugent one and it’s getting a bit shook but it has served me well.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭limo_100


    Think that without the brackets for the hustler not sure how much the brackets would be after that. seen the nugent at 1350. Cashels and quickie are roughly 1800



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭limo_100


    How long do you have them and how much did they cost back then? things are gone too expensive



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,528 ✭✭✭Dunedin


    have it about 14 years. It was 6 months old when I got it and bought it off a contact I knew so price was reasonable.

    I gave €850 and the new price was around €1200 then I think.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭limo_100


    That was a fair price in fairness and FairPlay to nugget they haven't increased the prices to the extreme



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 543 ✭✭✭SodiumCooled


    It may put some extra wear on it but equally you are putting extra wear on other components if it's off as you are bouncing around more. You would have to travel slower too which is a pain on a long draw. We have both front suspension and soft ride, the soft ride has never been turned off in about 12 years we have the loader, the front suspension I sometimes turn off if doing fairly static work like loading dung into a spreader or very heavy lifting but anything you can travel at a reasonable speed with e.g. drawing bales its on as its far rougher to drive with it off even on fairly good surfaces. We draw bales with a softhands too so I find keeping things smoother is better.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 651 ✭✭✭Fine Day


    No, no issue nicking bales. The odd one maybe but that's normally down to the operator🤫. I have no complaints anyways.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,588 ✭✭✭FintanMcluskey


    The ram nearest the swivel leg (Scully) prevent loosing grip of the bale when travelling but sacrifices the manoverability of the design with the ram further away (JM).

    JM most popular at home



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭limo_100


    The Cashels version of it looks very good as well that's the one I would go to for. It and the JM look neater



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭limo_100


    got a few prices last few days

    Quicke flexigrip 1800

    Mchales 1850

    Cashels 1950

    Rossmore 1650

    Hustler 1800

    Nugent 1350

    Just some prices for anyone looking not sure which I'll go with but will buy next week



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,084 ✭✭✭kevthegaff




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭limo_100


    Yeah that's for soft hands

    I did get some trunks prices

    Jm agri 2025 in tirlan thats a good price

    Cashel's 2100 direct off cashel's



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7 dan2345


    have used a scully trunk before loading trailer and stacking bales, get used to it in 10 mins and never want to use rollers again



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 648 ✭✭✭Conversations 3


    A bit off topic but relevant, what weight would you want on the back of the tractor when feeding bales/pitt silage?

    New Holland TS100A



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭limo_100


    Get urself a concrete block on and off in a few secs 750kg would do you but I think they can be got 900kg also



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭limo_100


    I went with the hustler in the end in seems like a great piece of kit haven’t got to use it yet but hopefully next week. Quick question this is the first implement I need the third function for. Tractor originally had a two male connections. The implement when I looked at at had one of each male and female but the one I got delivered has also two males. Which is the correct or best way to set up these connections. Is there a standard or is it just personal preference?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,480 ✭✭✭DBK1


    Just personal preference. Some people like a male and a female as it means the hoses will always be connected the same way.

    Personally I prefer 2 females on the implement with 2 males on the tractor. The reason for this is to keep the fittings clean. If there’s a female on the tractor it will be facing the sky and when using a bucket or spike that won’t have hoses connected the female fittings will fill up with dirt. With males on the tractor it’s easy wipe any dirt off them with your hand before connecting a hose and with females on the implement the hoses when disconnected can be left hanging on the implement with the fittings facing the ground and no dirt will get into them like that.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,047 ✭✭✭mr.stonewall


    Same as DBK1 2 male fittings on the loader. 2 females on the implements. Handy tip is to put a cable tie on one of the hoses to mark it. Most folks get used of using a grab or handler one way on a joystick. It's saves time.

    Keep 1 or 2 spares of a male and female on the shelf in case of emergency



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,480 ✭✭✭DBK1


    Also if it’s your first implement with third service, just so you know, make sure you let the pressure off your hydraulics before connecting or disconnecting hoses.

    To do this switch off the tractor, turn the key back on without starting the tractor, press the button on the joystick and move it left and right as if you are trying to open and close the grab. This lets the pressure off the hoses and you’ll pop them on and off no problem. Do the same with the tractor before you try connect the hoses and well.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭limo_100


    Perfect lads got it set up had to get two females for the handler got them all connected up and she's now working perfectly looking forward to a few bales now next week 🤣

    Just thought it was better build and also the equaliser bar keeps the arms opening and closing evenly and there a 5year warranty which really helped



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,154 ✭✭✭minerleague


    Good advice there, just to add notice if you take off hydraulic implement in cold weather but put it back on in summer when it's hotter the oil in ram can expand a little making it hard to reconnect.



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