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Add Panels on Steel Tech Shed

  • 14-04-2023 9:36am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 436 ✭✭


    Hi all,

    I have a Steel Tech Shed arriving at the end of the month and was thinking of extending my ground mount by installing a few panels on the south-facing roof of the SteelTech.

    Have any of you installed panels on a SteelTech? If so, are there special fixings? Anything to watch out for?

    Thanks



«1

Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,369 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Quick Google, it looks like it's the standard trapezoid steel roof?

    Rensol do a rail that directly attaches to the roof with self threading screws, metasol I think it's called.

    There's a k2 micro rail too, with the same idea.



  • Registered Users Posts: 687 ✭✭✭bunderoon


    Don't think the steeltech shed roofs are designed to be load bearing. Could also void your warranty with them.

    Each panel is ~20Kg or more



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,461 ✭✭✭Gerry


    ah, wouldnt worry.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 436 ✭✭jasgrif11


    The K2 micro rail looks to be the job. I'll wait until the shed is in and then see if I can get 2 or 3 panels on. Will update here



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,827 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    K2 micro rails are the easiest install ever. The self tapping screws have a built in rubber washer that ensures water proofing. This is also the cheapest possible way to mount panels. So not only DIY friendly, but also giving the shortest possible pay back time.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,461 ✭✭✭Gerry


    made a start on this today. van der valk fixings.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,715 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    A well timed thread. I was planning similar but didn't get as far as looking at rails, except I spotted this on watuneed.

    I presume that these shed based systems will be on microinverters?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 436 ✭✭jasgrif11


    I’m planning to extend my existing South facing string, so all going back to my grid tied inverter



  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭Plebian


    For sound proofing and some extra insulation against moisture, I put tecsound heavy insulation on the ceiling of my steeltech basic spec office shed and it's 7kg/m2. No issues with it since. ( https://www.soundinsulation.ie/product/tecsound-sy70-for-stud-walls/ )

    I was thinking about this too... and the skeletal structure looks fairly strong so I doubt it'd cause issue with the 20kg of the panel attached to that?What about the panels causing a racket and noise with the rain, or possible leaks?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,377 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    I just used the Van der valk standard rail and fixed it to the main frame of the shed with self tappers, fitted two 90 degree brackets to the gable ends of each panel for extra wind protection.

    Install done last August and no issues so far.

    Fitted four on a four port microinverter.


    ☀️



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  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,238 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Tell us more about that interesting looking structure to the left of that photo. Possibly interested in doing something similar.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,377 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    Just built a frame for another 6 panels with some metal sheeting underneath for shelter from sun/rain. Another 2 four port microinverters under those panels.


    ☀️



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,583 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,461 ✭✭✭Gerry


    Bit of finagling around with fixings and I've got a mounting system that I'm happy with. mixture of the wood screws and m10 threaded bar.

    new technology here.

    Need to do same on the ridge and sorted.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,583 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Good stuff. Make sure that there's no water ingress onto that wood. Last thing you want is over a few years for the wood to rot and then it becomes brittle and a good wind takes the lot away. Bolts are better (if that's an option)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,461 ✭✭✭Gerry


    nah theres no water getting in there. The fixings include a rubber seal. Also Ive drilled the lower part of the box section such that the screw is engaged in the steel. so its like an m9 self tapper. belt and braces. And finally that "nut" is hardwood.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,583 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Sounds like you got it covered. I was also paranoid with my own DIY installation for water egress. Like you my shed roof is very accessible and I don't mind popping up to check it, but at the same time want to get decades out of it.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,369 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    And my agri sheds an odd leak doesn't matter at all, there's an open ridge and the steel is "space sheeted" (no overlap and a screw thick space between the sheets)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,461 ✭✭✭Gerry


    I am as happens wondering if I should open more ventilation along with adding the panels. it seems the only current ventilation is at the eaves, some at the ridge would be better as its an oven in the summer. but probably best putting a vent in each gable end.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,583 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    If anything the panels will cool the shed as there'll be a few centimeters between the panel and the steel roof where previously the sun would have been beating down on the roof directly.

    I'd leave it and see how you get on.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,715 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    I hate to bring it up, but how are people dealing with earthing, or more precisely equipotential bonding, on sheds with micro-inverters? I'm not an electrician, but I'd be of the opinion that the shed needs to be bonded to the CPC/earth on the AC feed cable, but that there may be instances where the shed requires a local earth.

    The risks of getting this wrong and having a cable fault and short to the shed or to the mounting hardware far outweigh the gains, hence I'm asking.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,583 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    I used the AC earth. Not 100% it's right/wrong. I did look and was not able to find a definitive answer. I even asked one of the sparks who was back working on my main installation and he was unsure if it needed a seperate earth.

    I mean earth is earth, in theory it shouldn't matter if you sink a DC earthing rod into the ground or go back via the CU to the house's AC earth. What I was a little unsure about is if there was potentially (for example) some earth leakage detection going on, would this cause an issue....but it's beyond my knowledge. I'm relatively comfortable with using the house's AC, but if anyone knows better I'd very much like to know too.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,245 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    FYI there are slips available that you can attach to the "gaps" between the panels which eliminate the need for a sub structure as the panels themselves are now a full shelter. I have not used them myself but seen on YT



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,377 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    Thanks, didn't know that, Mrs wanted all the cables and bits hidden, so might not have gone that way had I known.

    ☀️



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,377 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    I ran 6 sq swa cable out to the microinverters, used that to earth the frame of the shed. Between the swa and the 6 sq earth it should be more than adequate. Having a low enough earth loop impedance is the critical factor here so your overcurrent device will trip in the required time in the event of a fault. Each panel is bonded, as is the metal sheeting under the timber frame. The mounting rails should also be connected.

    ☀️



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,461 ✭✭✭Gerry


    sorry but I've not quite made sense of this. so the shed frame is earthed to what then.. to a separate grounding rod, or to the house?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,715 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Well, this is part of my question, specifically for microinverters.

    I think that the metal of the shed is considered to be an extraneous-conductive-part and needs to be earthed (ie, parts of it connected with 10mm2 earthing cable), but that the metal support frame for the solar panels, where the microinverters are installed to and the AC cable clipped to, would need to be bonded back to the SWA and CPC.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,461 ✭✭✭Gerry


    So then the metal frame for the panels by being mounted to the shed is bonded to a separate shed earth AND to the SWA. I guess this is back to your point about equipotential bonding.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,461 ✭✭✭Gerry


    I had a look at the specific microinverters I am using (enphase m215). They don't have a dedicated ground attachment, and their product sheet says they have integrated ground.. so do not need separate grounding. They've ground fault protection also. They do say that by code, the panels and rails should still be grounded, I think the same applies whether microinverters are used or not. So, I'll stick with the earth in the ac cable for the inverters , and add a separate ground for the shed frame.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,583 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    The one thing that did occur to me when installing my own panels with micro-inverters was if one of the panels got hit by lightening (unlikely, but you have to think of these things I guess) is that I could then be feeding that lighting energy into my consumer unit as I used the regular AC earth, with all the goodness that entails. But this isn't any different from the grounding that was done on the main installation's panels on the main roof if that was hit by lightening that would go the same route.

    I read a lot on it, and was more confused by some of the explanations given. For me each micro-inverter has an earth going into it from the AC side, and at least on the Hoymiles microinverters there's an earth screw in externally on the micro-inverter case which I used to connect to the panels frame. (are others the same?)

    I wasn't using rails as they were connected to wood, but I guess the frame itself could get energised hence why I earthed it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,989 ✭✭✭✭banie01


    Following this one with interest as part of my own plan for my panels is splitting my panels across 2 south facing roofs. 1 on the house and the other the south aspect of a Steeltech shed. The consumer unit in the shed is earthed via 10sq back to the main house. I'd never considered a 2nd earth rod for the shed might be needed 🤔



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,715 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    To be honest, I don't think that an additional earth-rod is needed, I was just mentioning that it was a possibility. It's all to do with the fault path - the path which mains voltage would take in the event of a short to the shed or the solar mountings. This fault path needs to be directly from the shed and along the CPC/earth in the supply cable and then directly through to the neutralising link at the meter (or so I understand). Any other path could compromise the RCD protection to the shed and microinverters, creating a voltage hazard. Let me create a question on the electrical forum and refer it back to this conversation and see where we go with this.

    At the end of the day we all want our microinverter circuits to be as safe as we can possibly make them, but earthing and bonding are massive elements which we can't afford to overlook.

    I did find an agreement cert for the Solartricity systems (string inverters and microinverters. There is mention of earthing the metallic parts of the solar system in accordance with IS 10101, but this does not specifically refer to microinverters and then also says "In general, where there are no adjacent metallic elements of the building (e.g. structural steel or piping) that are connected to the building earth, no additional equipotential bonding or connections to building earth are required.". A shed, would, in my mind be a adjacent metallic element.

    Let's see what we find out.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,583 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    I'm of the same opinion 10-10-20 (love the name btw). Earth is earth, so routing back via your consumer's (house AC earth) should be the same. That said, if there was something that I'm missing for example some ELCB vulnerability where you could get "trips" from some leakage from the DC side, I'd like to know that. The documentation/information I've seen on the topic seems misleading/confusing. So appreciate the question being asked here.

    However, I think the main thing is to make sure that the rails & panels are earthed in some fashion. House's AC earth or it's own DC earth for the shed. That's the main thing

    I am a little different from you though. I don't have rails. My panels are screwed onto 2x4's for me, which in turn are affixed to wooden mountings, and they are connected to wooden rafters inside the dual layer perspex roof, on a cement shed. So I wouldn't have the same path to earth as you would. That said, I wouldn't want a 50v charge on the panels either, should I ever go up on the roof to check something and get zapped :-)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,377 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    The panels are bonded using the 6 sq, from the house and the shed then needs to be brought to the same potential as the panels. So all connected to the 6 sq and the steel wire armour. It's essentially connected anyway through the bonding on the mounting rails.

    ☀️



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,377 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    Ya the same thought crossed my mind, and from the reading I did on this, I came to the the conclusion that the panels are no more likely to be hit by lightning than any other part of the house. A type 1 surge protector would help but a direct strike would probably destroy everything. It should protect against an indirect strike. I would like to speak with a lightning protection expert on this, as it wouldn't cost much to add a lightning rod and a bit of tape.

    ☀️



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,377 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    You definitely shouldn't be adding a second separate earth rod on a tncs system, I assume all of this second earth rod confusion comes from Uk forums etc, as they often have TT systems. We have some, but they are rare now.

    ☀️



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,461 ✭✭✭Gerry


    Everything I'm reading including 10 10 20s posts here and in electrical forum is suggesting that separate earth for shed just isn't done in Ireland. Ive 3 core swa out to the shed, the inverters are actually an earlier revision, they do need grounding. They suggest ground via separate swa or direct to racking and I have the washers so the latter is what I will do, then bond panels and racking to ground via existing swa/cpc .



  • Registered Users Posts: 20 dmboards


    Hi guys,

    A little late to this one but have a question - what roof pitch do any of you guys that have installed on a shed have?

    I'm building a shed at the moment and the pitch will be around 20 deg and I know this is not ideal. Just wondering if anyone has experience or comments - one solar company told me that the panels would go on the roof without additional mounting to increase the pitch

    Thanks

    DM



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,052 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    I have panels East/West on a steel roof. It's about 15 degrees.

    Fitted without changing the panel angle with some of the short rails screwed to the sheeting.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,827 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    It really makes very little difference. The only issue is if the angle is less than about 10-15 degrees, then the panels don't "self clean" as well anymore



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,369 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Mines on something like a 12 degree pitch, fantastic in summer, not great on the sunny winter days though



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,369 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Haven't been near them since jan21. Look clean from afar



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,715 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Mine are at 15 degrees on a Steeltech shed. Haven't noticed any dirt other than a few leaves which have come off quickly enough.

    I notice though that the shed has slightly less generation in Nov and Dec than the roof panels at 35 degrees, but it has been very mixed in terms of generation during Winter anyway.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,910 ✭✭✭daheff


    how are you guys connecting the panels to the consumer unit? just run a cable under the garden and then along the outside of your house?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,715 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Microinverter into a socket as the shed is already wired for mains. It's only a 700w microinverter in my case, not a mini-power-plant like graememk. 😁



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,369 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Only 8kWp on that roof.

    Mine, comes off roof, into fireman, goes onto 6mm² 5 core SWA, 50m to barn where the consumer unit it, inverter beside consumer unit.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,349 ✭✭✭✭SteelyDanJalapeno


    I went under garden into the garage and then along the eaves to the consumer unit




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,910 ✭✭✭daheff


    yeah theres no way the wife will let me do this!!!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,910 ✭✭✭daheff




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,715 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Nah, that's mixing lighting and generation. Best off a socket circuit.



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