Charging.

I was using granny charger with 16A output for a time (a few months) before I've got 7kW charger and it was working fine. As stated before, the exact output depends on voltage which may fluctuate a bit, but still better than a standard 2.2kW granny charger. I did not have any problems with cable or socket overheating, still, it's prudent to make sure that your wiring and socket are in good condition.

Have still that portable charger available if you're interested; had it on Adverts but didn't get any interest back then.

Probably not.

UK and Irish granny cables are limited to 10 amps, about 2.2kW as UK and Irish 3 pin sockets are not designed to constantly supply higher power. Some kettles etc are 3kW but they only run for a few minutes not 8/10/12 hours like a granny cable.

On mainland Europe their sockets are intended for 16 amps. While adapters Europe to UK do exist they should have a 13 amp fuse fitted to prevent say a European kettle taking more than 13 amps.

If you constantly draw 16 amps from a 13 amp socket it's likely to overheat after a few hours or days or weeks and possibly burn the house down while you sleep. The wiring inside the wall may catch fire at any point up to the fuse board so even if using an outside socket the fire may start on the wiring inside. Even with the UK 10amp draw many people have had old worn sockets melt.

As said you can get seai 600 euro grant where you live, remove the charger when you leave and get the 600 euro grant again at the new house and refit the old charger. The grant is linked to the esb meter reference number and every address can get the grant even if same owner and a moved charger. When getting the charger fitted you can do a deal to remove it later by same person.

You must apply for grant before December 31st or it drops by 300 euro. You then have 6 months to install and claim money back. For new house it might be down to 300 euro by the time charger is actually in and you claim back. Online application takes 5 minutes.

Offer letter will be sent to your email automatically. You should get it within a few mins of applying.

Once you have submitted online before 31st Dec, you will get 600 and will get 6 months to claim grant from offer letter date.

I’d say you’ll be okay once they’ve acknowledged your application. Start getting quotes from a few providers and get permission from the property owner.

Price it both ways but make it clear you need grant paperwork. If you’re correct about the existing wiring, a local electrician could well be cheaper. If you need load balancing, a CT clamp will also need to be wired back to the consumer unit/meter. Local Electrician may also be able to source a charger at trade rates from a wholesaler. If you buy one yourself, you’re paying full vat on it.

I’d have a preference for tethered to save faffing about with cables in the rain. If however you’re changing cars in the near future, untethered might suit better. Your next EV will likely require a type 2 cable.

Yes, definitely needed. Isolator switches are not expensive.

We have an untethered 22kw charger in work (cars can only take 11kw but 2 cars can get full 11kw from it at same time) and a tethered 11kw charger.

The tethered charger is always used by 1st person to come in if it's free. The untethered is a pain in comparison but I think I'm going to buy a cable for it and rig it up like a tethered charger with some form of locking mechanism so it doesn't get borrowed or stolen.

You can say whatever you want, I'm only pointing out the facts. Carrying out restricted electrical works when you're not competent or insured is illegal.

Did you test to make sure the dc protection on the charge point is working? What about fault loop impedance or rcd tripping times? It's restricted for a reason, but no, random diyer on the Internet knows better and electricians are all robbing bastards.