Charging.

Probably not.

UK and Irish granny cables are limited to 10 amps, about 2.2kW as UK and Irish 3 pin sockets are not designed to constantly supply higher power. Some kettles etc are 3kW but they only run for a few minutes not 8/10/12 hours like a granny cable.

On mainland Europe their sockets are intended for 16 amps. While adapters Europe to UK do exist they should have a 13 amp fuse fitted to prevent say a European kettle taking more than 13 amps.

If you constantly draw 16 amps from a 13 amp socket it's likely to overheat after a few hours or days or weeks and possibly burn the house down while you sleep. The wiring inside the wall may catch fire at any point up to the fuse board so even if using an outside socket the fire may start on the wiring inside. Even with the UK 10amp draw many people have had old worn sockets melt.

As said you can get seai 600 euro grant where you live, remove the charger when you leave and get the 600 euro grant again at the new house and refit the old charger. The grant is linked to the esb meter reference number and every address can get the grant even if same owner and a moved charger. When getting the charger fitted you can do a deal to remove it later by same person.

You must apply for grant before December 31st or it drops by 300 euro. You then have 6 months to install and claim money back. For new house it might be down to 300 euro by the time charger is actually in and you claim back. Online application takes 5 minutes.

Capable, Yes.

Realistic, No.

If all the wiring is good and you have ideal conditions, you might get close to the 3.6, but I would guess the average speed to be closer to 2.8kW.

You really would be better getting a proper charge point installed. This can easily be taken with you when you move, or you could just wait til you move.

Is it possible to apply using the new house details?

Personally I didn't bother with the grant. Absolute rip off from most electricians hoovering up the free money and saving the consumer nothing.

You're looking at around 500 for the HV depending on cable length (5, 7.5 or 10M). Send an email for an ex-VAT quote, delivered to Ireland.

You can select any unit and then submit the receipts etc later. Doesn't have to be same unit installed.

I’d say you’ll be okay once they’ve acknowledged your application. Start getting quotes from a few providers and get permission from the property owner.

Price it both ways but make it clear you need grant paperwork. If you’re correct about the existing wiring, a local electrician could well be cheaper. If you need load balancing, a CT clamp will also need to be wired back to the consumer unit/meter. Local Electrician may also be able to source a charger at trade rates from a wholesaler. If you buy one yourself, you’re paying full vat on it.

I’d have a preference for tethered to save faffing about with cables in the rain. If however you’re changing cars in the near future, untethered might suit better. Your next EV will likely require a type 2 cable.

Any good charge point will cost around 500. The VAT saving on the hypervolt and the quality of product and service is why I picked them. You can buy cheaper, but cheaper won't be better.

You might find a decent electrician. My experience was not great. I already had a charger previously installed before grants were available. I contacted several companies for quotes and told them all the wiring was already in place. They literally only needed to install an isolator switch and then a new charger. They all still wanted north of 1000 quid. I ordered and installed the hypervolt myself. It was basically the same as replacing an outdoor socket.

The regs require it. But as I simply replaced one charge point for another, it was grand. An electrician would have had to install an isolator to meet the regs and also for the grant.

Yes, definitely needed. Isolator switches are not expensive.

Tethered every day of the week. The only reasons for untethered were:

1. Tidier look (assuming you don't leave a cable in it when not charging.

2. You have vehicles which are type 1 and type 2 for charging, so you use the cables from the cars.

3. You have a type 1 vehicle and will change to a type 2 soon.

2 and 3 are null, because you can buy adapters to switch between type 1 and 2. I use an adapter to charge the Leaf. My Hypervolt is type 2. Most chargers are type 2.

We have an untethered 22kw charger in work (cars can only take 11kw but 2 cars can get full 11kw from it at same time) and a tethered 11kw charger.

The tethered charger is always used by 1st person to come in if it's free. The untethered is a pain in comparison but I think I'm going to buy a cable for it and rig it up like a tethered charger with some form of locking mechanism so it doesn't get borrowed or stolen.

You can say whatever you want, I'm only pointing out the facts. Carrying out restricted electrical works when you're not competent or insured is illegal.

Did you test to make sure the dc protection on the charge point is working? What about fault loop impedance or rcd tripping times? It's restricted for a reason, but no, random diyer on the Internet knows better and electricians are all robbing bastards.