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Heat Pumps - post here.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    So i found the setting for fixed temp, on mine it is based off the "fixed return temp". I set 30 for now, will see what happens, I think this might be too high, as to get a return of 30 it would need to be delivering flow temps at start of around 38 to 40.

    Johndoe, I followed a process similar to what you describe when setting with weather comp. trying to set curve end point between 28 and 32 at a typical outside temp, then adjusting when that temp changed. i.e setting 30 degrees when its 12 degrees outside, if house holds same temp at zero then the curve i regarded as correct, if the temp the house was holding was too high i then moved the curve "down". I cant set the bottom of my curve.

    😎



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    That link to the varmepumpsforum post -that post is fantastic, a must read!

    😎



  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    My IVT uses the return temp to calculate the heating setpoint on the curve as well. I believe most other uses supply temperature and degree-minutes. I'd say your return is high at 30, here is my current figures at less than zero outside. Once my underfloor "radiator forward" temp meets the setpoint the compressor slows and maintains it in or around that.




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    JD is yours fixed or weather comping?

    😎



  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    Weather compensating. The heating setpoint moves up and down with the weather or if you change the room temperature on the heat pump.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭newhouse87




  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    I'm on night rate so I setback by 1 degree during the day. The setback offsets the whole curve so even 1 degree drops my setpoint by 2 degrees. Depending on the weather it could be more or less.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    but is your heat pump on24/7 as in compressor running and flow running or does lowering setpoint by 1deg switch it off for most of the day?



  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    It can run 24 hrs, i havent disabled it. It depends on the weather.

    Lowering it by 1 degree today won't turn it off as it is cold and not expected to get above 4 all day. It does lower the compressor speed though. It really depends on the weather. Lowering it by 2 probably would turn it off.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    Guesswork sounds like the worst thing you could be doing here.

    What was the system design temperature ?

    If you don't know, maybe work backwards, and calculate the heatloss for your hose, and discover your correct flow temp.

    See heatpunk.co.uk

    In addition, that Delta T seems high. All doc's point towards needing around 5°c



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    Weird...i had found that website 5 minutes before you posted! Will take a look.

    I know my heat loss is 1.98w/m, basically need 14.1KW pump. Design temps i dont know (didnt live here when installed). But are they not all more or less 35?!

    😎



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Just getting more of a bigger picture, does your hp heat a buffer, then from the buffer does the house pull from the buffer and send it around the house



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    Buffer is at the end of the line ! Research tells me they can go either end. Personally intuition says it's illogical to have it at the end in a large house !?

    😎



  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    Don't think this is the case, optimum delta T is 7-8 for heat pumps. And always between 5 and 10.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    do you have "components tab" on heatpunk? (as per their videos?) cant seem to see this tab to add UFH

    😎



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    As I understand it, Normally a buffer would be between the heatpump and the rest of the heating system.

    Heatpump has its pump and circulates to the buffer, house has its own pump and circulates to the house, taking heat from the buffer.

    If it's at the end?(define end?) It could just be a volumiser, that added extra water to the total system volume.

    As your ground source you don't have a frosting issue either.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    I define at the end as the colder pipe out of it enters the heat pump! So yes a volumiser, typically used for pumps that might be oversized to prevent cycling! Mine is anything but oversized!

    😎



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Ah, Still building a picture of the system, so the tank, really only has 2 pipes on it, the return from the house and then a pipe from the tank to the cold side of the HP. I can understand how it would prevent cycling, as it allows to have more water in the system.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    Yes and the buffer has an immersion on it too which should kick in if the pump is struggling down at minus 2 or 3 outside air temp.


    One option I have considered is joining the two pipes into the buffer, to setup a buffer. On paper the pump is just about the right size for house, buffer tank could be pushing it over the edge. This still doesn't really explain high KW usage on mild days though, I think.

    😎



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    What controls when this immersion comes on? the heat pump? Or some external unit? Are you 100% they there are only 2 pipes into this vessel not 4? Is there a pump near this?

    Are you suggesting to bypass this tank by joining the pipes?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,419 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,776 ✭✭✭thomas 123


    Is this saying direct is the best way go go if possible - ie no buffer tank and go with test 3?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    V good article

    And I've been saying this all along too but says it better 😂

    "Contrary to popular belief, the property that is to be heated has little to do with the performance of the heat pump. A property is essentially a box that must be heated and as it loses heat to the atmosphere, to maintain a constant temperature within, the heat must be replaced. "

    People get too focused on heat loss and air tightness.



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    It’s all about the installers not wanting call backs or wanting to do follow up visits to get the system running as efficiently as it can. Same reasons plumbers turn gas boilers up to 80C flow after an install or service; people feel hot rads and think they did a great job; no issues until they get a bill and the installer is long gone never to return.

    Do SEAI specify any minimum SCOP? Problem is this number isn’t known for an install for 12 months of running; they should have a review process.



  • Registered Users Posts: 290 ✭✭Eleusis


    IMO if you have to use an immersion something is wrong. once immersion kicks in you are getting a cop of 1:1 and makes having a heat pump pointless. I dont even know why they exist on heat pumps.

    When I first got my heat pump the immertsion was coming on for my heating (not hot water) due to a setting. Basiucally it was panicking it wasnt heating fast enough so it kicks the immersion in, when in fact it just needed more time because underfloor pipes take longer to heat up.

    Id investigate the conditions of when the immersion kicks in for you and adjust it. that should give you a massive increase in COP.



  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    The additional heaters exist because below -7, COP is getting close to 2 and if it is at this level for a sustained period of time you likely won't be a able to heat your house properly. Winter 2010 comes to mind, but as well they are designed to operate in many cold climates besides ireland. In ireland, the additional heater should rarely have to run if the system is sized correctly and the settings are correct.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    I suppose running a gas boiler at 80, you'll only lose 20% of total efficiency, but with a heatpump, the difference between a COP of 2 and 4 is either double the heat output or a quarter of the running cost.

    Mine doesnt have additional heaters, but theres an output that can enable one.. or it could be for an immersion, I'll have to look at the manual again. Although thats not an issue for me, I still have a stove, and 2 immersions in my buffer tank.



  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    Thats interesting, I thought they also were needed if, for example, you lost power during a cold spell they would be needed to defrost initially as hot gas isn't available.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    Slight tangent; I wonder how many KW per day are lost up an open chimney (no fire ever put on in it)

    😎



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  • Registered Users Posts: 290 ✭✭Eleusis


    Quite a lot



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