Starting Tractors in Cold Weather

Good Battery and good connections. An isolation switch on the +ve wire to stop battery drain especially on older tractors which can often have a short or trickle drain. A battery that is getting drained or shorted won't last as long either

Don't waste money on those cheap unknown brand batteries they are a false economy. They just don't last and will fail after the second winter. They might be cheap but often they have low Cold Cranking amperage which is vital in cold weather.

As a safety switch it is better on the -ve.

Reason being if a +ve lead breaks you can isolate battery from chassis. And if a -ve breaks it's not as important to isolate the chassis as it is already -ve (assuming -ve earth)

I've seen the +ve break away from the starter and strike the engine block, being able to quickly isolate the chassis saved a fire. Even with a switch on the Positive damage to the positive between battery and switch can never be isolated, so if you absolutely need to isolate the +ve keep the lead between battery and switch short as possible.

If parasitic draw is an issue with the tractor, finding the source would be far better than depending on an isolator switch. Common fault is a breakdown of diodes in the alternator and is safe enough, but other partial shorts may sooner or later become proper shorts and potential fires.

If you need it on +ve, place switch as close as possible to battery with Shortest possible lead from battery to switch.

Shortest possible without snagging on anything obviously. Don't want vibrations to wear through it from rubbing on something else.

Ah the bullet proof 135's prob the best tractor every made, had one here for years & the father sold it...such a versatile machine from log splitter to power washer to fertiliser spreader, roller, hayturner & a miser on fuel to boot......as you can tell I miss it😁

I stuck it on the +ve for no other reason than it was easiest to do. The one I used is on the battery itself so I think it should be ok.

I think you are right, I should have put it on the -ve. Still it's working away and you know yourself there's two dozen other jobs to do before changing it

Wouldn't consider a 135 the best tractor ever made, they are a harmless wee thing not fit to do much🙂

Depending on your set up they are fit to do plenty

Will second that👍

A selectamatic DB 880 will lose and find most in this segment / era imo. Horse of a tractor for their size.

Alternator's and Radios are common culprits (or anything with diodes that may have broken down), but a minor short anywhere could be to blame. Disconnect different parts of the loom on different nights may help narrow it down. I don't imagine there is much electronics in your 885, A short in wiring will usually lead to fuses blowing unless it is completing a circuit and doing something like keeping something energized such as keeping a solenoid closed.

Well that's just the same range of tractors, obviously the more powerful models can do heavier work.

We've had a 165, 178 and 185 here in the past. The 135 is still my favorite for smaller jobs and is far more maneuverable than any of the above and uses a fraction of the fuel for similar work. I think I've shown the 135 is good for more than just log splitting.

I do wish we'd held onto the 185 though, it was in great order and a capable machine except for the lack of 4WD.

My 390 refused to start this morning. **** that I decided against the high speed starter earlier in the year.