Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Heat Pumps - post here.

Options
1108109111113114119

Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Heat Vacuums!

    From the DEAP manual


    If a stove, with good seals its not so bad.

    If its an open fire, you can get a chimney balloon to block it, and reduce the heat loss



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    I have one chimney with a pillow in a bag (can be even better than a balloon for getting tight to surface area), figure i should do the other one too. Nerd in me wanted to do the math.

    Also see some cold bridging at front door - tiles are ice cold at front door (with UFH in the area!) - not sure how to resolve that!

    Of course if my heat pump is "the right size" and not remotely oversized, then these things combined are problematic.

    😎



  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭ColemanY2K


    regarding cold bridging....do you know if your insulation is above or below the structural floor slab? if its like the detail below which is similar to how i detailed my threshold, then with a thermal imaging camera you could map the location of the UFH pipes. in theory it wouldn't be too difficult to saw cut the screed, remove the tiles and concrete and then insulate with say 100 to 150mm of PIR insulation between the edge of the slab and threshold.

    in the detail below 90mm is used but that is only because quinnlite thermal blocks and XPS are also used to minimise heat losses.

    while it won't be as good as building from scratch the retrofitting of insulation in this fashion would certainly improve heat losses at these junctions.


    🌞 7.79kWp PV System. Comprised of 4.92kWp Tilting Ground Mount + 2.87kWp @ 27°, azimuth 180°, West Waterford 🌞



  • Registered Users Posts: 248 ✭✭Sponsorgate



    Hi All,

    I have 12kw Samsung heat pump using joule thermostat in each room. Underfloor throughout.

    Since the cold snap , we find the water is not hot enough for showers. My wife would go for a shower around 6:30pm and would not be hot enough. I believe the water is heated during the night on night rate . I'm not sure though. hot water temp was set to 48. i have upped to 50c now & this evening I will try press the DHW mode 30 min or so before she has her shower to see if this will improve it

    Over the New Years , we had guests also & was conscious of them having hot showers. I checked the temp in the morning and the temp of water to be 53c. I was delighted as i have never seen it at the temp & also surprised as the highest its set to is 50c? Can I set it higher than 50 & if so how do I do it?

    Should i schedule it to come on at 5:30pm everyday or is it better to press DHW mode 30 min before showers?

    Any advice appreciated



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭Nelbert


    You can set it higher but at least for my unit once it goes above 55 it will use the immersion heater. Mines set to 50. Which heats to 52 to allow for circulation in the tank.

    200L at 50 is enough for a few hot showers and it'll reheat as we use it once it drops below 40. It may be more of a schedule issue rather than a heat output issue if it's only heating the water at night (it'll work quite hard on that at the moment but will get there). Mine is set to heat the water with no limitations on time as we've 2 kids so need the hot water when they need it rather than our predictable first thing in the morning showers.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 248 ✭✭Sponsorgate


    For example, just now the hot water was 47c . So to see if I could get it up to 50c as a matter of interest, i put on DHW on . Went back about 20 min later, it was at 45C . Its a bit of head wrecker :)



  • Registered Users Posts: 248 ✭✭Sponsorgate


    I can't set it higher than 50c on the keypad. Not sure else I can set it?



  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Social & Fun Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 60,096 Mod ✭✭✭✭Tar.Aldarion


    I've noticed randomly that my UFH gauges are at 0 for pressure, and have never gone near this stuff. House is still heating, but wanted to see could I improve it. What do I need to do with this? Does the pressure just drop over the year and need to be topped up? What value should these be?




  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    Most heat pumps have a priority mode, where it only allows DHW for say 45 minutes then it switches back to heating for a certain period, then back to DHW if the required temperature wasn't reached the first time. Not sure if it could be this, as during cold it may not get up to the requirement temp within the allotted time.

    Also, if you're heating on night rate only, the water will still cool throughout the day (and more it there a DHW demand) - no matter how well insulated the tank. It is 10.5 hours from night rate to 6.30pm.



  • Registered Users Posts: 248 ✭✭Sponsorgate


    Thanks @johndoe11 . I guess I'm not 100% sure when my water heats so I need to find that out. I have been watching a lot of youtube videos. Going to try schedule hot water to come on at 5:30pm this evening & see if that helps . the priority mode you have mentioned doesnt appear to be activated



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 1,736 ✭✭✭hexosan


    You can hook a garden hose up to the manifold and fill them back up with mains pressure.

    plenty of videos on YouTube to show you how to do it.

    the garden hose connects to the hose bib under the red & blue vavles on your manifold in the picture.



  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    There will be a fill valve on your system. It will generally be a tee onto the underfloor flow line, before the manifold. It will come from your mains. Might look like the silver one below connected to the hose.


    Don't use a garden hose as may let air into the system. Only need to open up manifold to flush it out.

    Post edited by johndoe11 on


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭Nelbert


    It would only heat if it needs to... If your hot water is set to 50 it likely has an offset of around 10... So heats up to 50 but only starts a heating cycle / call for heat when it hits 40. You wouldn't want it constantly topping it up to 50 from the mid to high 40s, the startup of the heat pump would kill efficiency in that scenario.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,736 ✭✭✭hexosan


    Run the hose before connecting and shouldn’t be any issue with air.

    you can also just open the bleed valve the following day to bleed off any air that may get trapped plus on the pics he has an auto bleed valve the hot side above the red shut off.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    well john, what kind of consumption on these cold days, mine has gone up quite a bit, 25kwh a day in this weather would be quite good. Is it 21 your house at?



  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    At 21 yes. It was 34kwh yesterday, didn't get above zero here all day. I happy enough with that, considering the day. Will probably be under 30 today, but not by much.

    .



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    yeah 34kwh to keep big house at21 in them conditions is very good. Im waiting on esb data as didn't record from hp meter but reckon sunday will be close to 40.



  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    Looking at it again, I'd say I was a bit higher yesterday. Maybe 38kwh, it's hard on mine to figure out what goes to DHW.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    was very cold day though so still reasonable, that would be 38 just for heating so, excluding dhw?



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    I’ve noticed that the lack of wind has made a huge difference. I don’t know about your guys houses; but mine is a long way from airtight. Dormer bungalow with unfilled cavity’s and old leaky double glazed windows.

    Im still a long way off a heat pump; but I have my oil boilers stat turned down to the minimum; which is 50C flow. Usually this would not be sufficient to keep the largest room (the kitchen) at 20-21c; but over the last 3-4 days the kitchen has been lovely and warm. I’m in Tullamore; so it’s been -1 to -3 at nights.

    In these conditions I have been using about 100kwh of heat per day. So if I got a COP of 3.5 that would be about 28kwh of electricity. Which would be about 9 euro at 33 cent per unit, and kerosene is about 1.10 per L; so even with a really poorly insulated house it seems it would be slightly Cheeper with the heat pump. Now is it reasonable to get a COP of 3.5 at a 50C flow; prob not.

    If I could get a 20kwh dedicated battery for the ASHP and charge it at cheep rate; it would only cost 3 euro a day.

    Think I need to keep ploughing money into improving the insulation and air tightness…..



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    Your doing pretty well if only using 28kwh of electric in these conditions and keeping house @21 constantly . Heat pump wouldn't be any cheaper i don't think. Cop approx 3 for hp during the day in these conditions, defrosts are a killer for it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    That’s IF I was supplying the energy via a heat pump (with a 3.5COP) as opposed to the oil boiler which is currently using 10L (about 100kwh).

    so would you guys be happy with 300 euro a month on heating in Dec and Jan? Or is that too much?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    OH sorry, misread your post. My nov/dec bill was 440 so was happy enough with that with current prices. 290 after credit. In these cold cold conditions, hp do get quite expensive but it all balances out throughout the year i would think.



  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭ColemanY2K


    You're making me feel a bit better lads.

    My 193m2 bungalow has used between January 1st to 4th an average of 38kWh per day. I got 70 rolls of mineral wool insulation delivered just before Christmas in the hope of taking the pressure off the heat pump but of course I pulled a muscle in my back with only 8 rolled out.

    It currently sounds like there's a Cessna readying for take off outside my back door.

    🌞 7.79kWp PV System. Comprised of 4.92kWp Tilting Ground Mount + 2.87kWp @ 27°, azimuth 180°, West Waterford 🌞



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    the forbidden candy floss.

    I dare say if you get your thermal camera out, the ceiling will be cold! For sure there's a lot of heat being lost out the ceiling. But rest up that back. You only get one. a few days of high use you'll just have to put up with.

    House is still drying out/warming up too. (as for the HP you might be able to set a night time reduction in fan speed)



  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    Yeah, that's just heating. 33kwh for heating yesterday.



  • Registered Users Posts: 788 ✭✭✭staples7


    So far this month averaging 16.3kwh daily usage for UF heating and hot water. A2 house 260m2. (2017 Mitsubishi Ecodan)

    Run only by night @ 14c. Pretty consistent each year at circa 2500KWH. However hot water is on demand so can be higher at 33c. All in all Hot water and heating coming at E400 for 2023




  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    Is that 14c flow temp? And only on between 23:00 - 08:00?

    Thats very impressive. The house is clearly very well built. Do you have solar?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,454 ✭✭✭DC999




  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 9,200 ✭✭✭Red Silurian


    So it was running at an average of about 1.4kW, and yesterday was a cold one

    I pay 33c on my day rate so even if all of that was on the day rate (which it wouldn't be) that's a tenner for a days heat. Not auful at all



Advertisement