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Simple Home Network Design

  • 20-11-2023 1:46pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,466 ✭✭✭


    Hey guys,

    I'm in the process of building a new house and as part of that we will be running Cat 6 to most rooms and I also want to run 2/3 Wifi Access Points. I dont have huge requirements and I'm far from a networking expert, so I want to keep the network as simple as possible. I will use the IP provided router, with Wifi turned off, for basic services (firewall, static IP etc), then plug that into 1-2 unmanaged switches and connect Cat6 endpoints and Wifi Access points back to those switches.


    Image below is a simple diagram of how I see this working. And here is the list of products I plan to get:

    Wifi Access Points: https://eu.store.ui.com/eu/en/pro/category/wifi-flagship/products/u6-lite

    UnManaged 5 Port POE Switch: https://www.cablemonkey.ie/switches/99616-netgear-gs305pv2-0606449151411.html

    UnManaged 24 Port Switch: https://www.elara.ie/productdetail.aspx?manufacturer=NETGEAR&mancode=GS324-200EUS

    My questions are:

    • Will this work ok or will I have any potential issues?
    • Will all devices connected via Wifi be able to communicated with devices connected via Cat6 ethernet connect ok?
    • Any issues using a variety of gear from different providers? e.g. Netgear and Unifi

    I know Unifi have a full suite of products I could use including Dream Machine / Cloud Key Gen2 Plus, but these are out of my budget and I would likely get very little use of their advanced features.

    So will my simple network design work? Appreciate any help or thoughts.

    Thanks


    Post edited by FastFullBack on


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,255 ✭✭✭smuggler.ie


    You done your homework well.

    One remark, minor. PoE switch can be plugged in to router directly releasing port on 24port switch and eliminating daisy-chain.

    While planing for WiFi points consider structures the signal will need to pass. Fine if you think 2/3 is enough, but perhaps worth lay another run or two for furthest/most obstructed areas.

    Eht run for workshop/shed ? more than often people underestimate need of network there. network can be expanded by another local switch there later should you need

    Have you planed for your security system - IP CCTV points, gates/keypads , etc ?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,466 ✭✭✭FastFullBack


    Thanks. Yeah currently with Starlink there is only one Ethernet out port so I'd need to connect the POE switch into the main switch.

    Yes planning to have Ethernet point point in garage and probably even one on outside wall by patio area for outdoor wifi access. For CCTV, I'll put a point in the attic so I can run it to CCTV camera in future if I want it. Hadn't though too much more about ethernet points at gates/keypads etc. Are they really nessecary for alarms nowadays?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,255 ✭✭✭smuggler.ie


    It might depend on what you intend to have.

    You know the saying: better look at it , than for it...



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,466 ✭✭✭FastFullBack


    Bump. Any more thoughts from anyone?

    Or does this forum not get much traffic



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,114 ✭✭✭ItHurtsWhenIP


    I'd agree with smuggler, you have a good design there.

    In respect of POE, you should be fine power wise. The APs run at 12w max and the POE switch can handle 63w. But do keep an eye on any power requirements for anything you might replace in future, if that may increase the demand.

    you asked:

    Will all devices connected via Wifi be able to communicated with devices connected via Cat6 ethernet connect ok?

    That should all work fine. I haven't used it in a while, but the UniFi controller software would be important to use to set up the APs, such that you can roam across them as you move around the house and also to keep them updated. Unfortunately it's a beast of an app (I believe it's some form of VM) and not the most user friendly. There is a lot of good help available online for it though.

    There is also their WiFiman app which can help you generate a heat map of your wifi coverage, which is very cool.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,466 ✭✭✭FastFullBack


    Thanks for the feedback.

    So on the "UniFi controller software would be important to use to set up the APs". Can the AP's be setup using their Android app or do I need to install the Unifi controller SW somewhere? I dont mind installing it once off on my laptop, but I dont wanna have to run it full time.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,877 ✭✭✭donspeekinglesh


    You can install it on Windows, and the turn it off, but it's not recommended: https://help.ui.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012282453-Self-Hosting-a-UniFi-Network-Server


    You could use the new Express as a controller: https://ui.com/eu/cloud-gateways/express



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,030 ✭✭✭zg3409


    For CCTV you need multiple cameras inside and out and a doorbell camera..you also need good lighting as cameras own night vision is not great.

    For some rooms you may need multiple network points such as main TV + sky box + streaming box + WiFi ap for main sitting room.

    You probably want wired points where you will use work laptop for meetings such as couch, kitchen table, office, desk in bedroom etc. More and more things need wired or WiFi think home automation, alarm system, solar panel control systems etc .

    In some ways it's better to have ducting or pipes so for example you can pull fibre in instead of a phone line. A pipe or duct from house to the road could help.

    Many things may need power also so consider power in attic or at CCTV cameras.

    Consider electric vehicle charger power and data such as wires for load sensing, ducting may be better between charger location and fuse board. Usually extra wires are needed for load sensing.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,114 ✭✭✭ItHurtsWhenIP


    I'll be honest, I've never used the Android App for configuring the APs I had set up in the past. It's been a few years since I've done it, and perhaps the App wasn't available then. If it works for you, great and it would probably be a lot more easy than the beastly controller software.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,466 ✭✭✭FastFullBack


    Thanks, that new Unifi Express looks good and is a decent price point for my needs.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 262 ✭✭Tabby McTat


    Hi there. I’m in a similar situation to OP. In the middle of a new build and electrician will be doing 1st fix in a month or so.

    I am planning the same for my home network and a couple of questions;

    1. Is there a need to have a patch panel as well as the switch?
    2. I see you have a separate switch for POE and non-POE. Is this a cost thing?
    3. Currently I have a Nest Doorbell and Camera in a babies room. And can view everything on my Google Home. If I go with, say, Ubiquit POE cameras, can I view them on my Google Home, or do I need a separate screen?

    Thanks a million!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,466 ✭✭✭FastFullBack


    My thoughts on your questions:


    1. Patch panels, I think are a more nice to have, they seem to help really organize the cable management within a rack. I wont be having these initially. In fact I probably wont have a proper rack initially
    2. POE switch vs non-POE switch is just a cost thing. POE switches with 24 ports total are fairly costly.
    3. I think viewing Unifi camera's on Google Home is probably possible via HomeAssistant, but maybe not straight forward. Here's on example of it; https://www.reddit.com/r/Ubiquiti/comments/11c6g5q/google_home_hub_show_protect_cameras_as_devices/. Doesnt look like it has out of the box integration; https://community.ui.com/questions/Google-Home-Hub-Support/e0892d60-ece1-4193-8ad5-8b4640aea730?page=6


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,466 ✭✭✭FastFullBack


    Just an update. After lots more research I think I'm going to land on this simple network design initially, using all Unifi products. I'm going to go with Unfi Dream Router. I'm not going to include a 24 port switch initially and instead just use the 4 ports from UDR and 8 from the POE switch. So all ethernet points won't be live. Once I need them in future I will add a bigger switch. Pic of network plan is below. I can also upgrade the UDR in future if I want more capabilities.

    Initial cost for this (excluding wiring), is pretty decent I think:

    • Unifi Dream Router x1 = €226.32
    • Unifi Lite 8 PoE x1 = €123.00
    • Unifi U6 Long-Range x1 = €202.95
    • Unifi U6 Lite x2 = €223.80

    Total = €549.75

    Only issue right now is that the UDR is never in stock, but I have 4-5 months before I need it, so I can wait.

    Here is where I am thinking to run the Ethernet cables:

    • Office x3
    • Living room TV x 2
    • Sitting Room TV x2
    • Master Bedroom x2
    • Kids Rooms x1 each
    • Spare bedroom x2
    • Downstairs Ceiling AP x2
    • Upstairs Ceiling AP x1
    • Attic x1
    • Plant Room x1
    • Garage x1
    • Front Gate x1
    • Main Fuse Board x1

    Any obvious ethernet cables runs I should add or any further thoughts from anyone.


    Post edited by FastFullBack on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,114 ✭✭✭ItHurtsWhenIP


    Just circling back on the CCTV topic. Since this is a new build and all, now would be a great time to at least have something put in for it.

    I know you mentioned having the point in the attic, but that's not likely where the camera is going to be. It would probably be down on the eaves, at a corner of the building.

    So maybe have the builder, at the very least, run ducting from the ethernet point in the attic to a front corner and a rear corner of the building. Perhaps even all four corners to have a complete view of the perimeter of the building. Fit the ducts with a pull string, so it makes feeding cable easy.

    That way, in the future, if you do want to put in cameras you can drop a 5 port POE switch in the attic, to serve all the cameras.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,971 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    @FastFullBack

    I'm not going to include a 24 port switch initially and instead just use the 4 ports from UDR and 8 from the POE switch. So all ethernet points won't be live. Once I need them in future I will add a bigger switch.

    Clever. :-)

    And obviously, whatever brand switch you're gonna choose - no difference, as they're transparent so no setup is necessary.

    Initial cost for this (excluding wiring), is pretty decent I think:


    -Unifi Dream Router x1 = €226.32

    -Unifi Lite 8 PoE x1 = €123.00

    -Unifi U6 Long-Range x1 = €202.95

    -Unifi U6 Lite x2 = €223.80


    Total = €549.75

    Are you sure? My calculator says it's 999.87. :-P

    Here is where I am thinking to run the Ethernet cables [...]

    If I was you, I would add +1 to each location, it's always better to have 10 too many than one short. One may call it overkill, I'd rather call it future-proofing. ;-)

    And I personally regret I didn't put SFP+ fibre between busiest switches in my home network. :-(

    Lucky you, you're building a house - I moved into a newly built house on 2008 and had no single ethernet cable in there. It was real struggle to have things done decent way. Still not perfect (see SFP+ thingy), but acceptable now.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,466 ✭✭✭FastFullBack


    Yup thanks for the ideas. Here is my thinking right now for CCTV.


    • Unifi door bell covering front door
    • Unifi flex covering back door, setup under overhang
    • Unifi flex covering lower driveway setup under overhang
    • Unifi Bullet covering entrance gate setup on garage

    I won't have these all connected straight off but I will put cables in place. I think that will give me pretty comprehensive coverage.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,466 ✭✭✭FastFullBack


    Yes my calculations got messed up by a bad excel formula. Total cost for that gear is €776.


    In terms of running extra Cat6 cable to each location, ya definitely running 2 to each main TV and 2-3 to office. For all others I feel 1 is enough. If needed I can also add a small switch. Maybe I should be thinking the other way around and just running as much cable as possible...



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 79 ✭✭lukeod


    Hi. Very interested in this thread although my situation is slightly different. I've just renovated an old house and had the electrician add cat 6 cables around the house but it's literally just the cables running from the attic to walls around the house. No wall outlets - just blue cables sitting there beside electrical sockets - and no switch or anything in the attic. Happily, I got the broadband provider to bring the cable through a vent and into the attic though, so I think (hope) I have something to work with. My plan is this:

    - Put my broadband supplier's router in the attic and plug it in to incoming broadband cable

    - Add a switch and run the router to it

    - Add ethernet plugs to cat6 cables and plug all the cat6 cables into the switch

    - at the other end of the cat6 cables I'd like neat/discrete wall units that have an ethernet socket (say for work pc/TV etc) but also act as a WiFi access point. I'm look at something like this, although they're a bit more pricey than I hoped/expected.


    Just looking for any thoughts on whether this seems like a decent approach. I want good WiFi with no bottlenecks throughout the house.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,971 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    I don't know how determined you are in terms of access points being discrete vs. their price and capabilities, but guessing your budget is tight (who's budget is not? ;-) ), if I was you, I'd go less discreet, but much better performance (AX3000) and half the price (50ish each).

    Not as discrete as the ones you mentioned, can be wall-mounted though. :-)



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