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Kerosene smell in Hotpress

  • 16-01-2024 12:22pm
    #1
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,043 ✭✭✭


    Morning folks. Oil boiler is outside, but the last few days there's a smell of kerosene in the Hotpress.

    Had a fill a week ago, tank never went dry, can't see any obvious signs of leak in the hotpress itself.


    Any ideas or suggestions?



Comments

  • #2
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,302 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Was there any overflow when filling? Look around the tank and tank connection.

    Does oil pipe go beneath the house to reach the boiler.

    Be sure you're not confusing it with an electrical smell from over heating wires.

    Empty the hot press and have a good look.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • #3
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,043 ✭✭✭cletus


    Thanks for the response

    Hard to see if there was an overspill, everything is wet outside, but there's nothing obvious.

    This seems to have kerosene on the outside, either it spilled on it, or it's weeping

    IMG_20240116_135519.jpg


    The tank is at the bottom of the garden, the boiler is halfway way up, so no oil pipes near the house, really


    I've emptied the hotpress, it's really a kerosene smell.

    Could the fumes be coming in along the ducting taking the pipes into the house, if there's a leak at the boiler?

    IMG-20240116-WA0010.jpeg




  • #4
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,302 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    It could get into the ducting carrying the heating pipes from the boiler. That should be investigated.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • #5
    mickdw
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,435 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Seeing as no oil near the house, it could only be some kerosene getting on the hot pipes at burner and possibly coming in that way.

    You should see a leak at the burner if that is the case.

    Whatever you do, don't get the smart idea of putting in an insurance claim to rectify as they are duty bound to remove any or all contaminated soil and if that extended to neighbour, they will have to dig there too.



  • #6
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,043 ✭✭✭cletus


    Right, I've found my leak. This valve is weeping

    IMG_20240117_104558.jpg

    Tightening down the thumbscrew does not stop the weep



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  • #7
    mickdw
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,435 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Just swap it out



  • #8
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,043 ✭✭✭cletus


    Further to the above, I noticed that tightening it down actually lifted the threaded part.

    Removed the thumb screw, screwed the threaded piece down, currently no leak



  • #9
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,302 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Was it leaking enough to make its way along the heating pipes.

    It's a fire valve. Cheap enough.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • #10
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,043 ✭✭✭cletus


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121628054#Comment_121628054

    Is it as simple as shutting off the valve from the tank and disconnecting, or is this one of those times you'd recommend calling someone out



  • #11
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,043 ✭✭✭cletus


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121628126#Comment_121628126

    Constant drip, for who knows how long, so I'd say so



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  • #12
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,302 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121628130#Comment_121628130

    Don't take this wrong, but I'd guess you haven't done much of this type of work, so considering the huge implications of getting it wrong, I'd give my service guy a call. Tell him your wheel type fire valve is leaking so that he'll have what he need. Most of us carry those anyway.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • #13
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,043 ✭✭✭cletus


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121628276#Comment_121628276

    Not taking it the wrong way at all. I've done plenty of DIY stuff, car stuff, some electrical, some plumbing, but whenever you're faced with a new job, it's nice to find out the things you don't know that you don't know.

    Looks like like a straight forward valve replacement, but I'd prefer not to be elbow deep in the job and have someone say "you mean you didn't do [insert x here] first?"



  • #14
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,302 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    The biggest problem is knowing how much to tighten those fittings. That is soft copper and can easily be overtightened.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • #15
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,085 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    The valves are between fiver and a tener. If your comfortable doing other plumbing work you'll be fine with this.

    Shutoff obviously. Use a tray catch. Tighten but not over tighten. When done clean up and sensible thing is throw something under it like a mini painters tray for a few days and heating cycles to check for leaks and visual / paper towel check for leaks. And then done.



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