Biochar and natural farming

Gypsum, gromax, foliar seaweed, fulvic acid, molasses, magnetic water - (now I've labelled myself a crank but I'm trying it for myself). Radiator with a lifting magnet and another the other side torn apart to be the opposite polarity. 6ton lifting force altogether. Was told by a mechanic of a magnetic setup that they saw on diesel cars that clamped on to the fuel line but with same polarity facing each other. Haven't a clue what I'm doing myself..

And today got a mortgage to buy crushed sea shell.

Basalt dust mixed in fym.

Compost mixed into slurry.

May start on the char again. Haven't spread any fert yet. But I'm back on grass volume on lads that have and are just on the point of being out full-time. But then I don't need to feed minerals like they do with silage as I'm putting the minerals on plant and soil and into the silage and grass that way.

Put in a homemade water quartz pebble in pipe thingy at the well water and looks to have helped the stock this year. Fat anyways and zero calving issues.

Never be knowledgeable anyways.

The turf itself would probably be a better fit for slurry. I was going to say it (ash) may actually give off more gas from the slurry being alkaline. But there's people praising adding cubicle lime to slurry and I'm seeing a difference adding humic/fulvic "acid" to the tank and it's alkaline. Try a bit anyway I can't see it harming.

The basalt dust solved mineral deficiencies I had in stock at the time. In that I had to bolus the breeding stock to get in calf and prevent cases of withheld cleanings at calving. It's a different animal than lime. In Brazil they mix lime and basalt together in whatever ratio as a complete fertiliser. In Australia they mix basalt and compost and biochar together. If from a dry area I'd only advise mixing with compost or fym before use due to the sodium. The result from plain landspreading could show as going to drought faster than your neighbours.

I got on well with the JMS. But you'd have to apply on damp ground and have it washed in. It'd be pointless spraying out in full sun on dry ground.

You're ahead of me by making LAB. I haven't gotten there yet. But there would be natural LAB anyway in the JMS.

I stuck on magnets just for the craic on the sprayer I have now on the outlet pipe. I can't use that now for biologicals as the magnets are supposed to kill bacteria. But I have another sprayer still.

But the rule for biologicals is damp ground, overcast day with rain on the way or even during rain.

Magnets on sprayer. Kind of an electro culture aspect I suppose. Just trying it out anyway.

There's no such thing as nitrogen fixing microbes. Bar it's stored away anaerobically in a plant.

Every organism poops and dies and that's the nitrogen claim. But to have organisms you need to feed organisms. If there's no food, there's no organisms, there's no nitrogen fixing.

What they'll feed on is carbon, carbohydrates, minerals, starch, sugars .....food.

For anyone look up jadam microbial solution. And spray that on during cloudy days or just before rain. All you need is seawater or sea salt, potatoes, deciduous forest soil. And spray less than 2 bar. If you do it correctly you'll get some response in growth and add carbon to the soil along with added minerals from the marine element. This time of year now the ground is damp and still warm is perfect for it.

Yea I saw that. Thanks.

That glass container with the tap on the bottom. Does that have a name for that implement or what is it commercially sold as?

It's spot on for that job.

Tom Stack is all on the Korean natural farming and LAB is the basis of most of it.

What's your plan for this or is it a starting point to get your eye in?

It's getting a bit technical now and I've no real experience of LAB bar it is in the Jadam solution I made. I know LAB lives in both aerobic and anaerobic conditions. In the jadam there was a disc of foam on top of the solution. When this started to disappear it meant the bacteria was starting to die and what use is dead bacteria bar fertiliser. May transfer to what you're doing there in the container.

I wouldn't use all of it in your slurry. Keep some and add it to your lawn or place in a field and see if there's a difference. It'll possibly be swamped in the slurry, you should see benefit, but you definitely should if you keep back a bit and use it diluted or straight on your test plot. Otherwise you may think after what's the point.

People use LAB for brewing solutions with everything imaginable including urea if one wanted. They use air lock valves on top of the brewing containers.

Good luck anyway. You're ahead of us all.