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Home charge points (purchase/problems/questions) (See mod note post#1)

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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,729 ✭✭✭zg3409


    Did the REC not join it to the wifi and set your phone up? That's part of the standard service. For the zappi to join the wifi you need to put the Wi-Fi password into the zappi, there should be guides on YouTube and online.

    You need to set up a myenergi account and you may need to configure the phone app. It depends on your set up. Is the current clamp for the zappi connected to anything or not, is there a harvi etc. The app data is limited to what hardware was installed with zappi.

    You can telephone the myenergi helpline during office hours.

    In the short term just set charger to fast and use the timer in the car if you need to. Maybe start a new thread if you want a step by step guide.



  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 6,522 Mod ✭✭✭✭Irish Steve


    OK, charger is effectively alive, in that I can access the relevant menus but there is a piece of paper that describes the set up process to get it on line, which falls apart when I get to the second stage, I have a myenergi account set up, and then I'm supposed to go into the step 2. setting the location and adding the first device, which I get into , and it asks for the reg S/N and reg code from page 2 of thr zappi. but having gone to page 2, they are not there, and where they are supposed to be is blank, no information there at all, and I can't find out how to connect the thing to the WiFi, which it's supposed to have, and everything on Myenergi's lousy web site is implying it needs a hub, which in theory from other stuff I saw this thing is meant to have, but if I can't set it, then effectively, I'm blown out of the water. Going round in circles with this, and I have been around computers for a very long time, but I can't recall a site that's as unhelpful as the Zappi site, it bears zero relationship to the paperwork that was in the box with the charger, which is about as unprofessional as it's possible to be.

    I'm trying to get to the point where I know I'm safe to connect a Nissan Leaf to this thing, rather than pay ESB extornionate rates to charge at the only local public charger, before we run out of battery and I don't want to just throw the lead at it and hope, I'd like to have a slightly better idea of what's going on.

    Thanks

    Steve

    Shore, if it was easy, everybody would be doin it.😁



  • Registered Users Posts: 33,931 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Okay your very hyper based on paragraphs of information.

    So basically you need to setup your app to the zappi. In order to do that you need SN and the REG number.

    The reg number only becomes available if the zappi is connected to the Internet the first time. Then it appears on page 2 of information. Until then it remains blank.


    So your challenge is to setup the Internet in the unit. Actually quite simple.

    You have to go to WiFi settings take a photo of page on of WiFi config the one with the ssid and the password on it. Once you have that. You scan WiFi networks on your phone to find the zappi access network and throw in the password once connected go to the ip for the zappi in your phones browser. Then give it a new password. Then enter your home WiFi details and save. It then connects itself to your Internet and obtains it's REG code. You can then setup the zappi app using the SN and REG.


    Instructions here. In better detail than me above.


    https://support.myenergi.com/hc/en-gb/articles/5209609055377-Setting-up-WiFi-Resetting-WiFi-config
    


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 6,522 Mod ✭✭✭✭Irish Steve


    No, it was 18:00 by the time we'd sorted things out, and I suspect he was under pressure to get away, so we didn't get to putting the WiFi information in to it, and I can't see where that's done in the menus that are available to me, I am wondering if it was a part of the initial set up process that got skipped over, and now, it's no longer accessible,

    My big concern is that EVERYTHING on the myzappi web site seems to be out of date, and still talking about the version 1 of the zappi and there's no way I can find to get into the download area, if I could get the proper details, I might have half a chance, but with the two sheets I have here, I might as well use them as bog roll, for all the wrong information in them, I can have a look at Youtube, but I hate so called instructional videos on that site, a manual is so much easier to work with, but that's my age/generation, I need to see things like URL's, I can't remember them on a half second view on a video, that's not how my brain works.

    From a couple of things I have found, I suspect it's going to be a bit like some of the Shelly hardware, where it configures it's own hub, and then has to be logged into from a smartphone that's connected to it, in order to change the settings, and then it supposedly reboots and comes up, but there's zero mention of that in the stuff that was in the box.

    There is a current clamp on the relevant phase line, the suppy is 3 phase, and the house is on Phase V, so we've put the charger on phase U, which at the moment has less than 200 W of load before the charger, and there's no other Myenergi devices at the moment, we might get there eventually, with 3 phase power here due to having had high load computer hardware 30 years ago, we're in a better situation than most, but that's for the future, until the system comes up with a better option for pensioners, we're not going down the solar or heat pump roads, there was no point until we had better insulation etc in the house, but that's a subject for another time and place.

    I have a myenergi account up and running on the phone, and have gone in on the laptop and got the location as set up as far as I can, but the app is rejecting the serial number, but there's no clear indication if the serial is just the numeric part of the thing, or if it needs the letters (SUW) that are part of the serial on the paperwork that was with it, and it keeps talking about hubs, which as far as I can see, I don't have as such, this is a 2.1 Zappi, which in theory has it's own hub, on verion 5.416 firmware, manufacture date is 08/11/23

    Shore, if it was easy, everybody would be doin it.😁



  • Registered Users Posts: 33,931 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    I've given you full information above on how to solve this problem. While slightly cumbersome it's a simple 20 minute fix.



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  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 6,522 Mod ✭✭✭✭Irish Steve


    Many thanks that's what's needed and unfortunately, there was no way to find that online on the myenergi site, which was what got me well wound, but I think that will solve it, it's the same concept as the way Shelly do their devices, so I've been there and done that without problems.

    Shore, if it was easy, everybody would be doin it.😁



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,119 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    as the charger is on one phase of a 3 phase supply, and the house is on a different phase.

    Others are helping you with the setup... i have a different question.... if you have 3 phase why didnt you buy the 3 phase version? It would give you faster charging in the long term even if your current car isnt capable of more than 7kW?



  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 6,522 Mod ✭✭✭✭Irish Steve


    For now, we're better avoiding the clash of loads during the night off peak charging, and there were supply issues with an untethered unit, and no availability of a tethered unit with a type 1 lead, which our Leaf needs, so it was simpler for now to go with the untethered single phase unit,as the cable we have will work with that, and if we need a higher charge capabilty, with the way things are looking, that's some way down the road, the leaf is a local use vehicle, my diesel 7 seat Picasso gets to go on long runs at times, and I'm very much aware of the issues around finding working and available chargers, both here and also on motorways in the UK, so a change to an EV to replace that is some way out.

    Shore, if it was easy, everybody would be doin it.😁



  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 6,522 Mod ✭✭✭✭Irish Steve


    Thanks, I went out about 15 minutes before the night saver rate kicked in, and it's now sorted, I had to go into the full WiFi reset to get the access page unlocked, and then it worked out OK, and we're charging OK, now all I have to do is find a decent OBD dongle that will work with Leaf Spy, the cheap and cheerful supposedly ELM237 unit I picked up a number of years ago that sort of worked with older cars seems to be struggling with the leaf, so I'll have to see if I can find a genuine one that will work, which could be a challenge, given the number of rip off clones that seem to be everywhere now.

    Next test tomorrow will be to make sure that the 'Granny charger' lead that I got is working, and find a wall mount for the type 1 plug, I think I saw one here locally, and it will make it less likely to get damaged.

    At some stage, we'll get there, the number of places that don't have stock of even basic items at the moment is only unreal.

    Shore, if it was easy, everybody would be doin it.😁



  • Registered Users Posts: 10 JorgeL


    Pardon the ignorance but is this 'smart' charger different to the EV charging points in this thread?

    I've the same issue as many where I need new 16mm2 cables, new fuse board bla bla bla and takes the installation to well over E2,500 solve ran out of options.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,604 ✭✭✭obi604


    hi. this is the current setup I have in my house, the other end of this goes to an external 3 pin socket.

    This has been charging my Nissan leaf perfectly for the last 4 years via the 3 pin granny cable.

    the house is rented and the landlord wants minimal changes, which is fair enough.

    If I am to forget about the grant etc, can I in theory install a non smart 3.6kw EV charger on this fuse and wiring?

    and no need to think about isolator switches or 6mm square cabling etc i.e just use the existing cabling and no need for isolator switches etc?

    Post edited by obi604 on


  • Registered Users Posts: 129 ✭✭dr.dundrum


    Is there any platform that home ev charger owners sell/rent their electricity?


    I live in an apartment which provides a charger with .45 kwh which I believe is a little bit high. I would like to see if my neighbors who has a charging facility would like to sell their electricity with lower rate.



  • Registered Users Posts: 71 ✭✭davidivad


    I was listening to newstalk in the mornings with Shane Coleman and Ciara Kelly, and this week they interviewed a woman (not sure on the day, between 8 and 9) about how she is setting up a company to do this. Basically you have a website and you can charge your car in someone's home charger and they will make money off it as you buy the electricity off them. Maybe you would find the information on the newstalk radio podcast.



  • Registered Users Posts: 730 ✭✭✭CivilEx




  • Registered Users Posts: 5,604 ✭✭✭obi604


    Would one of these be essentially equivalent to the older type 3.6kw non smart chargers?

    https://amzn.eu/d/hD60Syp

    Post edited by obi604 on


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,143 ✭✭✭BobMc


    Hey All, been posting on another thread about our Wallbox charger problems, mines already been replaced within a couple months of installation due to some fake over voltage error, now just constant failed scheduled charging etc. Wallbox keep giving same speel to trouble shoot and no improvement

    Installed with grant so just looking for a straight swop of unit, so whats the best small form as its on a side wall tight to a down pipe and

    and whats a local sparky gonna charge to swop unit, were still gonna be looking at another 7 or 800 euro I'm guessing?


    thanks in advance



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,651 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    No. The domestic plug with 13A fuse should be the give away. This will charge at around 2kW. It might initially spike to as high as 3.3, but I think not if it’s been built properly.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,651 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    The EO mini is about as small as you’ll get, but I’d be pressing wallbox to change it again. Otherwise you’ll definitely be looking at 7-800. I’d be looking for a refund for the wallbox if it’s costing you for install every time. You might need to have the circuit looked at though if the same issue has shown on a second unit. You’ll need to rule that out. Best person for that is the electrician who installed it.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,143 ✭✭✭BobMc


    its appearing as a different issue this time it looks like, last time it was worse nothing could get it to charge and they could see this faulty over voltage error which apparently was an issue across the range, this time its charging fine for few days then just refuses till rebooted, restarted etc. and obviously its most annoying when missing nightime scheduled charges, halo is correct colour so it gives no warning it wont charge



  • Registered Users Posts: 33,931 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Arguably there's an issue with your ct connection here or the rcd. I wouldn't rule out your consumer unit brining problems. The ct itself could be crap, could be poorly installed could have a poor quality or broken cat 5 cable or electrical interference from **** cable. Or your rcd is acting up itself.

    I'd be starting there than the ev supply boxes tbh.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,604 ✭✭✭obi604


    I know I may have older posts on this, but I want to put this all in one post as the posts are scattered about 😐️

    I live in a rented house and 4 years ago an electrician did an install for me. He installed a new 20 amp fuse in the fuse board and then ran a fresh dedicated cable out to an external 3 pin socket. Short enough run, he just had to drill through one wall to the outdoor socket. This has been charging my Nissan leaf via the 3 pin granny cable perfectly for the last 4 years without fail. All good. 

    Its a fairly tidy setup, short fresh cable run, external socket, no isolator switches or anything else installed etc

    Pictures are below, fuse in fuse board, general fuse board, thickness of the dedicated cable, outside setup.

    The landlord kindly agreed to this at the time but wanted to keep it tidy with just an external socket.

    I now would like to install a simple non smart 3.6kw EV car charger.

    Can I use the existing cabling to simply swap out the external 3 pin scenario with a 3.6kw charger?


    P.S. Yes, I know I can get grants and install a 7.2kw smart charger and new cabling etc etc but I am not going down this path





  • Registered Users Posts: 33,931 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    High draw long period items should be on higher rated cable. E.g a shower minimum is around 6.5kw plus. So should be on 6sq minimum cable with 32A RCD protection.

    We can't tell what cable was used here, best get a RECI to install and test new unit as its required for such works. 3.6 is a low enough draw but when it's continuous over hours is where it can cause potential issues.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,604 ✭✭✭obi604


    Thanks, can you judge by these picture on the type of cable. pencil is obviously for scale :)




  • Registered Users Posts: 33,931 ✭✭✭✭listermint




  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,023 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    2.5sq I'd say, most cable had size imprinted on it

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

    Public Profile active ads for slave1 (adverts.ie)



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,604 ✭✭✭obi604




  • Registered Users Posts: 5,604 ✭✭✭obi604


    so lets say it is 2.5sq cabling, can this run a 3.6kw charger? or do I definitely need the 6sq cabling?



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,651 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    There is usually little or no price difference between a 3.6 and a 7.2kW charger. You will need an electrician to come out anyway to do the work, as you don't know what cable size was used. 4mm^2 was the size used in installations on the older grant which ended a couple years ago for chargers limited to 3.6kW.

    If I were you, I would just get a fresh install done. All the electrician need to do is upgrade a short run of cable to 6mm^2 and put in a 32A RCBO along with mounting a new charge point. You could keep it really small and neat by going for an EO mini, or the Ohme, which are about the size of that socket, but better looking. There is a need to install an isolator switch too, which is about the same size as the charger. They are ugly with a big red dial on it. They come in darker colours, so maybe go with that option.

    Here's one I found online. The isolator can go flush with the charger afaik.

    If you want a tethered unit, the Hypervolt is what I would personally recommend. They come in Black, or White options and are slim with the cable wrapping around the unit for storage. UK order only....unless you do grant here and find a supplier. If ordering yourself, ask for VAT free quote.

    Stay Free



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,023 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    I think 2.5 is 20a so no more than say 18a continuous which means it can handle 16a charge no bother.

    I am not an electrician

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

    Public Profile active ads for slave1 (adverts.ie)



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  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,169 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    2.5mm2 is rated for 20A (3.6kW is only 16A). The limitation is the BS1363 socket. Is is generally accepted that these are not rated for 13A continuous load. Most appliances/heaters these days are only 10A.

    On the face of it, I don't see a reason why a RECI couldn't install a dumb 3.6kW charger.



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