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Safest way to convert a EU plug into a UK plug?

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    #2
    sundodger5
    Registered Users Posts: 1,173 ✭✭✭sundodger5


    I would chop off the eu plug and rewire to the one you have highlighted. Make sure the fuse rating is the same though.

    On a side note i thought that appliances had to be supplied with the correct plug by law?



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    #3
    Tails142
    Registered Users Posts: 2,117 ✭✭✭Tails142


    You can get things like this that covers the 2 pin euro plug but it's only 5a so probably not suitable for a microwave. Your mucked would have an earth also?

    Probably best to cut off the existing plug and use what you have linked, yes

    Mr. Gadget Solution® 2 Pole Euro Europe EU Plug to 3 Pin UK Plug Fused Converter Mains Socket Adapter 5A - BLACK https://amzn.eu/d/3veJ9tN



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    #4
    Explosive_Cornflake
    Registered Users Posts: 2,125 ✭✭✭Explosive_Cornflake


    It's 10amp fuse in the device from the specs.

    image.png


    As @sundodger5 said, do change it out, you can get a pack of 10amps fuses whilst you're picking up the plug

    And, yes, legally if it was bought here, you should have received a UK plug on it, but it's honestly no big deal. It's a 5 minute job to change a plug.



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    #5
    Shoog
    Registered Users Posts: 5,412 ✭✭✭Shoog


    Isnt the issue here that an EU appliance will not have an earth lead since there are only two connected wires in the plug. I could be wrong on this. In the EU they individually fuse each socket at the fuse board and each socket is a spur and this is how they get away without using fused plugs. As such they are not directly interchangable.

    First thing you need to do is identify if there is an earth wire. If there is then it's a simple plug swap.



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    #6
    rathfarnhamlad
    Registered Users Posts: 329 ✭✭rathfarnhamlad


    Cut off the existing EU plug and wire up a BS1363 plug. If you don't know how to do this yourself then ask someone who does. It should take them a couple of minutes tops.

    Don't bother with the "one-size-fits-nothing" adapters. Even though the appliance will work, there'll more than likely be a shock hazard present due to the lack of earth continuity.



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    #7
    alinois
    Registered Users Posts: 43 ✭alinois


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122107864#Comment_122107864

    Here is a picture of the cable in the microwave today. Does this plug still meet these standards?

    PXL_20240507_160408917.PORTRAIT.jpg
    PXL_20240507_160433823.jpg



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    #8
    L1011
    Registered Users Posts: 69,006 ✭✭✭✭L1011


    That's an earthed plug, it only has two pins but the recess would earth it on a French socket, and the metal in the recesses on the top/bottom would earth it in a German socket.

    You can cut that off and replace with an Irish plug. I would not use an adapter as many are either unearthed or really unsuited for use with high amperages.



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    #9
    alinois
    Registered Users Posts: 43 ✭alinois


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122108138#Comment_122108138

    Right, but the plug says 16A and I can only find 13A UK plugs. Any recommendations?



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    #10
    L1011
    Registered Users Posts: 69,006 ✭✭✭✭L1011


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122108166#Comment_122108166

    The device is 10A as per its documentation quoted up-thread; so can work with a conventional plug, preferably swapped to a 10A fuse.

    There are no domestic plugs rated >10A in the system we use here; but as that device doesn't need one anyway it isn't important. All plugs of the type it has are rated 16A even if the device doesn't need it.



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    #11
    alinois
    Registered Users Posts: 43 ✭alinois


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122108172#Comment_122108172

    Great! Thanks for the help!



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    #12
    alinois
    Registered Users Posts: 43 ✭alinois


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122108172#Comment_122108172

    Another question. Why wouldn't a socket of 13A work? Why is the recommendation to swap the fuse for a 10A?



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    #13
    L1011
    Registered Users Posts: 69,006 ✭✭✭✭L1011


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122108191#Comment_122108191

    Because the fuse in the plug wouldn't pop in certain overload conditions. The device is rated for 10A so anything above 10A is an overload; but the 13A fuse won't blow.



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    #14
    alinois
    Registered Users Posts: 43 ✭alinois


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122108195#Comment_122108195

    Got it! Thank you!



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    #15
    Shoog
    Registered Users Posts: 5,412 ✭✭✭Shoog


    The fault condition of a fuse is generally much higher than the rated ampage so fuses should always be considered a last resort fault which will hopefully prevent a fire. This is why old wire fuse boards are so dangerous. All the safety from shock is really provided by the fuse board trippers and their associated rcb.

    The actual draw on this appliance is around 6A so 10A is the next available standard fuse value.



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    #16
    kirving
    Registered Users Posts: 5,991 ✭✭✭kirving


    UK type sockets and plugs are rated to a maximum of 13A due to their design. The EU plugs are designed to handle up to 16A.

    You could in theory build a very high quality UK socket and plug which could safely handle much more current, but all of the other components in the chain in a UK/Irish house are designed to a cost, and are only guaranteed to safely handle 13A.

    The caveat here though is that the 13A rating is OK for a short time ONLY, like boiling a kettle, which is why you'll see 3000W kettles on the market, but a car charger sold for UK/Ireland will be a 2.3kW, 10Amp model. This is because at the full 13A, there might be a weak link in the chain, which would heat up over time and melt.

    3000W Kettle

    https://ninjakitchen.co.uk/product/ninja-black-perfect-temperature-kettle-rapid-boil-kt200uk-zidKT200UK

    2300W Car Charger

    https://ev-extras.com/collections/portable-chargers/products/type-2-ev-portable-charger



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    #17
    Layla Yummy Yard
    Posts: 0 ✭ Layla Yummy Yard


    European CEE 7/7 'Schuko' plugs can carry up to 16 amps. This does not mean that the appliance is actually rated 16 amps. It just means the plug can carry an absolute maximum of 16 amps.

    When used on the continent it would be plugged straight into a 16 amp circuit or even a 20 amp circuit. There is no local fuse protection used. It's all just based on the circuit breaker on the panel.

    The BS1363 / IS401 plugs (IS411 sockets) we use here are locally fused in the plug itself, and this is because we regularly (albeit less than the U.K.) use 32amp ring circuits, which absolutely require the plug to be locally fused to provide protection for the flex. It's not a case that they're particularly highly safer, rather we use a different wiring mythology (at least for ring circuits.) The fuse is absolutely necessary when ring circuits are in use.

    The spec for plug fuses now has been simplified to 3 or 13amps. The intermediate sizes aren't really sold anymore.

    You can safely connect that microwave with a 13amp fused plug.

    Do not use an adaptor - it's not a good idea as they're not intended for long term use.

    The CEE 7/7 European plug should simply be cut off. Strip back the flex and wire an Irish plug and fit with a 13 amp fuse. If you happen to have a 10 amp fuse, you can fit one of those, but 13 amp is fine.

    This is a very easy job, but if you're unfamiliar with it, get someone to do it who is competent to do so. You will need tools i.e. a proper screwdriver and a wire stripper or snippers that are suitable. A scissors will just cut the flex through.

    There is absolutely no difference whatsoever between a continental and Irish appliances, other than the plug top being a different type (which is also the case in Denmark, Italy and Switzerland).

    They meet exactly the same standards and are fully CE approved for the single EU market.

    3000W kettles are a bit of a marketing gimmick. They draw 3000W only at 240V when used in the UK, at least on older spec circuits. In Ireland they're on 220-230V and will draw:

    @220V 2521W and @230V 2755W.

    It's not that it runs at a short burst of 3000W, rather it will absolutely never exceed 13amps. 13 amps at 240V is 3120W. It's only 2990 at 230V and 2860W at 220V, but with a resistance load, the output of power will vary depending on the voltage.

    A car charger is not a resistive load, so will draw what's actually written on the label at 230V. So, they will tend to rate them lower than 2800W. They then go down a bit lower as the BS1363 sockets and plugs really aren't very good at handling sustained maxed out loads, and can run hot if the contacts are less than absolutely perfect - a slightly misaligned fuse or a loose spring in the socket will just get really hot and burn.

    Post edited by [Deleted User] on


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    #18
    Antenna
    Registered Users Posts: 2,315 ✭✭✭Antenna


    The reference to a 10A fuse is an internal fuse in the microwave itself on its incoming supply. It is fine to use the 13A fuse in the replacement plug rather than looking for a 10A one, considering the cable.

    If unsure of wiring a plug yes get someone else to do...the 3 individual wires should be cut to different length so that the Earth is not the first to get pulled loose if the plug's cable grip fails!



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