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Fencing costs

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,284 ✭✭✭Gillespy


    Not stones or rock but have to deal with solid pencil when driving corner/strainer posts. Have hired out a mini digger with a post hole auger and that worked well. Another time they didn’t have an auger so dug the hole, filled it in again and drove the post in that spot. Solid as could be.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,089 ✭✭✭minerleague


    I'd be very slow to pipe an open drain, first the cost of pipes and it will take a lot more stone than you think, second it won't take surface water away as quick. I put a strand of electric on my neighbours side to stop cattle getting on to the ditch as they would be pushed through fence at my side from higher up on the bank ( plus the hedge was being destroyed ) 2 strands of electric at his side if he has sheep?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,162 ✭✭✭MIKEKC


    With the latest TAMS there is no need to have sheep to qualify. Previously you had to have 40 ewes



  • Registered Users Posts: 18 Newbie2023



    It's probably 6ft out from the ditch and not overly deep. Plan is to pipe it and fill with stone and use 8FT strainers. Done it before on a bit last year and seemed to work well.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,051 ✭✭✭gooner99


    Jumping on this thread if that is ok.

    Wondering what is the best long lasting option for fencing a piece of land approx 170m, no sheep, some cows around.

    Three/Four strands of barbed wire only or sheep wire with one strand barbed?

    Which type posts and wire (don't want to be replacing posts and wire constantly)?

    Any ideas for entrance gates to lane/house?

    What sort of price would I be looking at for materials for self erect Vs contractor material supply and erect. Pros/Cons of both options.

    Thanks.

    Post edited by gooner99 on


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭Good loser


    For 170 metres use concrete posts and 3" high tensile wire (Motto?). At each end use straining post with strut angled against, both set in concrete, about a wheelbarrow for each of 4 holes. Strain the wire through the strainer post and strut with those steel ratchet type strainers. If wire slackens over time it can be tightened readily. leave intermediate posts into ground - without concrete. Use 3 strands wire the lowest one foot from ground.

    For gate posts check with some guy that makes concrete posts etc.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,307 ✭✭✭visatorro


    Did a small stretch with clipex post. Wasn't 170m but was happy with them and would use them again. Still use timber strainer and at corners. No cheap way of doing it anymore



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,453 ✭✭✭limo_100


    Did you do a sheep wire fence? how much where the clipex posts?



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,307 ✭✭✭visatorro


    No 2 strand of electric. The were 5 ft post. Just like how they went in and the were solid enough. Posts were put on account tbh so don't know price but I will use them again.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,283 ✭✭✭Sami23


    Don't know if you have sheep or not but I find the sheep loosen the Clipex post rubbing against them.

    What are others opinions on this ?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,307 ✭✭✭visatorro




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,953 ✭✭✭50HX


    Same here I'm happy with the clipex

    V the price of timber ones now I think they are a great alternative + the longevity



  • Registered Users Posts: 888 ✭✭✭Aravo


    For a small stretch like that I think I'd go with sheep wire and 1 or 2 strands of barb on top. Would be using pdm stakes. If I could get a few old telephone posts as strainers Id go with that. Do see them advertised on done deal. For a nice gate how about depending where you are a nice gate from bo steel or fishpondiron.ie manor gate style.



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