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Home heating automation

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,459 ✭✭✭NewClareman


    It was a commercial decision not to make both systems compatible, as we both know. That they deliberately choose this approach leads me to believe that they are targeting more subscription income, as you suggest. As for continuing to support and improve the V3+ System, I'd take that with a grain of salt. Whatever about maintaining the cloud service, maintaining two different product lines, for essentially the same market segment, is unlikely to make commercial sense. Hoeever, for now there's V3 inventory to be sold…
    I learnt this lesson some years ago when Dimplex stopped manufacturing gas boilers and then pulled all support. I had a perfectly good boiler, only a few years old (< 5 yrs), with no spares available from the vendor. (I only found out because Bord Gais refused to renew my maintenance contract.) Thankfully this was before Brexit and I was able to source a set of spares from the UK. That is why I am suggesting that people stock up on V3 spares, now.



  • Registered Users Posts: 825 ✭✭✭WildCardDoW


    On the flip side, these new devices are only targetting heat pumps so far…

    Perhaps they wanted to separate the product lines instead of ending up with a confusing product line. Even in Europe gas boilers will be dominant long before many of us are looking to replace our systems so they will need to keep V3 running.

    It is silly to not maintain a level of connectivevity for the rad valves though. That lack of "open" connectivity is why I didn't go with Tado personally (plus I got Hive stats + receiver for dirt cheap, €75 all in for two).

    Think I'd go with Honeywell in any future upgrade.

    I have Hive anyway and messed around with it's Zigbee integration in HA so like yourself I am largely future proofed if they take down the cloud aspect. Only issue is that their implementation of Zigbee for thermostats isn't standard (they have additional criteria needed in the message if the stat is in certain modes to get it to the mode you need / want) so lots of messing and sending custom Zigbee commands instead of just using the set commands.

    I also haven't fully integrated the TRVs to call for heat in the Zigbee setup - simply that they close when heat exceeds a value.

    But it works, so it will do ha.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,646 ✭✭✭deezell


    I read some time ago that Honeywell Evohome had no further product development, and would remain as is for the foreseeable future, which admittedly is a comprehensive, but complex and expensive system, but perhaps that's a good thing. It's probably on the lower end of the third phase of product life cycle, so if it's not broken, don't fix it. It will no doubt decline slowly then rapidly as most systems do. I would be inclined to think the new Tado x is a European flavoured development. It could be quite a while before the missing V3 functionality, a wireless receiver, is introduced, and this no doubt is not a priority as they're looking to a future where their devices just talk wirelessly to whatever boiler or HP you have using the new protocols. If V3 goes dead in 5 years, I won't worry too much. Compared to the cost of HP conversion, or UHF upgrade, it's trivial.



  • Registered Users Posts: 313 ✭✭TheSunIsShining


    Yip. It's exactly one of those green foam covered ones. Any sense on whether it's better to use the metal probe or the temp/humidity sensor to strap on if doing it they way?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,646 ✭✭✭deezell


    The metal probe sensor would have the range to measure hot water which could be 65 degrees or higher. The air temperture and humidity sensor is for room and space measurment, not for vessel measument. Poke a hole into the greeen foam gently, use a biro tube or similar, nothing with a sharp point. Get right up to the cylinder metal, then slide in your probe.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,459 ✭✭✭NewClareman


    Resideo Evohome is still very much under active development; new features are being added, new accessories are being introduced and new commercial partnerships are still being pursued. Yes, it is expensive compared to some products, even more so when bought from Irish suppliers. For me, it has the advantage of working standalone, other than for remote access and weather related functionality. 
    Given the range of functionality that Evohome provides it can be complex to install and configure. However it is extremely easy to use on a daily basis, as Wifey would confirm. The complexity of installation depends on whether you are happy with the default settings. If you are it is no more difficult than systems such as Tado.  Bear in mind that with some other systems you don't have the configurable options to begin with. (For example, the default option with Evohome is for alkaline AA batteries to be used in the radiator controllers. A setting has to be changed if Lithium or NiMh batteries are to be used.)
    I don't know where Evohome is in its lifecycle but, for sure, it will be replaced eventually. I have already bought a number of spare radiator valves. (The cheaper ones with no local temperature control, for about €40 each.) At some stage I'll see the wall controller on offer and I'll buy a spare one of these and a boiler relay. Then if Honeywell stop support I'll still be ok.

    Look, different systems have different cost/benefits. It is up to everyone to do their own analysis as to what best suits their needs. Personally I dislike any system with an avoidable cloud dependency for basic functionality.  In my view it is an unnecessary hostage to fortune. The risks include a vendor going out of business, broadband being unavailable when heating/cooling needed urgently and subscriptions becoming ever more expensive. 



  • Registered Users Posts: 313 ✭✭TheSunIsShining


    Technically, I could save up to 20 cent a day - if I could get 9kw of electricity into the tank, and it's 2.5c a kw cheaper? But I suspect the immersion element wouldn't get the full 9kw in as it might only be heating 2/3 of the tank, which is 120l so it wouldn't quite need 9kw to get that volume upto 60 degrees.

    Still, as you say, there is an element of fun with some of this too. I enjoyed figuring out the S-plan wiring next to the cylinder to allow me to wire in the TH16!



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,646 ✭✭✭deezell


    Ah, the clue is in 'Resideo' The evohome is 14 years out, and its a long time ago that I read on some blog the worries of users that it had plateaued. Turns out Honeywell had 'spun it off' to Resideo in 2018 or thereabouts, and they've obviously decided to breath new life into it. The TRVs are a bit vintage looking though.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,646 ✭✭✭deezell


    Yes, 9kwh would raise 120l of water from 10° to a scalding 77.5°, if the 120l was still as warm as 30°, it probably cut off at after 4 or 5kwh input, 60 to 67.5°



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,459 ✭✭✭NewClareman


    In fairness Resideo have updated the room thermostats through the years, while maintaining full backwards compatibility. The new DT4R Thermostats are really nice. I'm not worried about the aesthetics of the TRV's, only their reliability. They have a five year guarantee and exercise the water valve at least every 2 weeks to prevent sticking. Hopefully both will last for many years!

    Anyway, the evohome TRV's with a display are complete overkill. In practice we either use a room wall thermostat, or the wall controller, to adjust room temperatures. The HR91EE units are far cheaper and also have an open window contact. This can be used with a window sendor to turn off heating as an alternative to detecting sudden room temperature drops. I wish I had known about them before I bought the HR92's



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,459 ✭✭✭NewClareman


    Time was I would have enjoyed messing around like this. In any case the relative openness of Zigbee is a big plus and your approach should serve you well.



  • Registered Users Posts: 825 ✭✭✭WildCardDoW


    I've got it working well enough to turn the system on in a schedule and override that schedule (set temp higher than current set value) and then turn it off from HA and Google Home which is 99% of what I actually need. Could talk all day about it ha.

    I can always move back to Hive's own integration, app etc. when I need to.

    This was to prove when the internet is down or they scrap it I can still keep some control and it's been fine so I never bothered reverting back.

    I wouldn't reccomend it for 99% of people haha.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,885 ✭✭✭bittihuduga


    not sure if this is the right thread or other HA thread for my question…

    i have gas heating at home but also have the RED switch to heat water using electricity which is very rarely used.

    but the switch is in such a place that kids and sometimes adults turn it on and forget to turn off.

    is there any way to automate the red switch?

    i have used shelly behind my light switches.

    can any shelly be used behind this RED hot water switch please?

    i want to automate this so that i know when someone turns it on or i should be able to turn it off via HA



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,646 ✭✭✭deezell


    A 16A shelly plus should be sufficient for an immersion rated up to 3kw, 3.5 tops



  • Registered Users Posts: 313 ✭✭TheSunIsShining


    Sonoff POWR3 is rated up to 25A, if you want the extra reassurance. You'll need a junction box or as well to put it into as the connection screws are exposed if not boxed in



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,885 ✭✭✭bittihuduga


    thanks both. have used few shelly but never used sonoff. will check both and buy.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,042 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    Lads how easy it is to install Tado V3 hot water and heating wireless controls ?

    I have been quoted labour of 820 to install the thermostat and 550 to install 8 Smart TRVs. Total cost of parts 880. All excluding Vat.


    You do get 750 grant so just exploring options.

    Thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 313 ✭✭TheSunIsShining


    It really depends on what is there already? For example you might need new TRV valves on your rads to take the Tados? Is there an existing thermostat in place?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,646 ✭✭✭deezell


    Is that a total of €2250? Have you already got mechanical TRV valves on the radiators? €880 for to install the thermostat with HW receiver is bizarre, if you already have some kind of timer/switching to control CH and HW separately. A sparks would wire in the extension kit in an hour. The thermostat is wireless and just needs to be paired to the extension kit, then stuck on any suitable wall.

    The wireless stat with receiver/HW relay is €117 in Screwfix. 8 TRVs €534. Thats with 23% retail vat. And installer only pays 13.5% Is there plumbing and motorised valves required, or changes to the radiator valve bodies? Post a pic or three of what you've already got. Timers, stats, radiator valves.

    The €550 to install the TRVs might be good value if it includes changing a tap style radiator valve body to a TRV pin type, as @TheSunIsShining says, €69 per rad would be ok all told. If the rads already have mechanical TRVs, its a one minute job to swap the heads, a few minutes to add each to the app and test.



  • Registered Users Posts: 313 ✭✭TheSunIsShining


    By the way. If you do already have a thermostat in place, then, to be blunt, you might as well bend over and be done with it in terms of being screwed with the quote. With deezel here - he is the go to man on these things by the way! - but a straight swop of thermostats is a 10 minute DIY job....



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,646 ✭✭✭deezell


    Sounds painful, especially as we don't know if it's a plumber or a sparks who quoted, and what tool he'll use!



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,042 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas




  • Registered Users Posts: 4,042 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    Thanks deezell

    The quote is 2580 total ! Includes installation and wiring of V3+ HW and heating controls and thermostat(on screwfix for 116 rite now)/tado 8 smart TRVs(Manual TrVs already installed)/ wiring of motor valves which control HW and Radiator water flow into tado system.

    Dont have zones capability as plumbing is dated.

    Attached are the pictures of TRVs, timer control for boiler and new motor valve in Hotpress two stories above from boiler. I am also told it has to be wired for HP to kitchen. All this (valve and TRVs)was done as part of boiler upgrade(WB condense 4700) done recently.

    Post edited by Roberto_gas on


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,646 ✭✭✭deezell


    So you can buy the kit from Screwfix for €651, not €880. The only electrical installation required is to connect the receiver box in place of whatever controller or timers you currently have, a job for a sparks or competent DIY. Post a picture of your existing controller/timer.

    No wiring for the stat, it's wireless and pairs to the receiver. No plumbing or wiring for the TRVs, the old ones handscrew off, the smart ones screw on and are paired to the system. For Internet connection, the small Internet Bridge device, the third part of the wireless stat with HW starter kit, is plugged in with a short supplied ethernet cable to your router. It's powered by a supplied phone charger style plug and cable. Again, no plumber or sparks required.

    Download Tado app to phone and scan all the parts QR in. You'll he able to see each TRV appear on the app and become active after it's powered up and paired to the Bridge. Name it and give a room, then screw down it's base in place of the mechanical TRV, and click the head part onto the base. Once you figure one, it won't take a week or €550 to add the other 7.

    The system was designed for diy install. €1350 in labour, and a margin of €300 with his lower vat on the materials seems very expensive to me. Two weeks pay for a few hours, but that's the way it is with everything these days, I was quoted €1200 for maybe an hours work with a microdigger to scratch a narrow cut across 80m of grass to sink a cable, about the same time and equipment value that I use to mow my grass.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,646 ✭✭✭deezell


    I posted before I seen your reply. You have two new zone valves fitted, left unwired. The Tado receiver needs to be installed here, wired to switch the HW and CH valves. The relays in the valves then combine in a little junction box to supply a single live wire to the boiler (in the kitchen) to fire it for either zone. That's what you get for the €820. This is a two zone system once it's wired up correctly using the little €20 junction box.

    You could add the TRVs later once you have the app and are familiar with the seperate HW/CH control. I honestly don't know if there is €750 still available for heating controls, grants like these turned wiring jobs of a few €hundred in €thousands Imo.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,042 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    Thanks ! That's what i was wondering….just get the controls done(i have got both quotes separately so i can always say TRVs later and install the Tado TRVs on my own).

    Hope €820 is fair for that wiring to kitchen?

    https://www.screwfix.ie/p/tado-white-smart-trv-head-4-pack/793pg

    In terms of the 750 grant even if i do not install the smart TRVs i can still get it ? I have it already approved. Since we have got HW/CH zoned/TRVs fitted(not smart)/Thermostat installed/separated pipework for space heating and hot water(the valves should meet this ?) See the checklist for 6 items required below.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,646 ✭✭✭deezell


    .

    That will do it, I see 6 ticks. I still think €820 exorbitant for plugging in the extension kit, hooking it to the two valves, and running a light twin cable down to the boiler. The last bit can be a pain though, drilling holes through walls etc. This EPH transmitter/receiver kit is well worth the €80 or thereabouts, it will wirelessly link the zone valve relays to the boiler, no wiring in between. This is it here.

    https://www.heatmerchants.ie/tr1-tr2-rf-transceiver-pack-u16492



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,042 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    Thanks so that switch negates the need of any wiring ? That would be great. Lastly for grant i need a SEAI certified contractor so will try to shop around. Cheers

    Also last question. Would any wiring be required in the boiler/opening of the boiler ? Or the existing timer switch just connects to the cable/RF receiver from HP to boiler ? Thanks.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,646 ✭✭✭deezell


    Correct, if someone gets sniffy about the electrical connection into the boiler and starts going all RGI about it, you can site the TR in place of the timer. Any electrician can connect the electrics to a boiler though, there's no gasworks involved, but these days...



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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,042 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    super thanks. so its not a DIY😃 job to fit wires into boiler



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