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  • Registered Users Posts: 65,316 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    In Ireland the required storage is actually very low, one of the lowest in the world. Presuming of course we get more wind and solar installed first. Tony Seba has shown the figures for several countries - of hours or days storage needed.

    Storage can take many different forms BTW. Chemical batteries is only one of them, but it is getting better and cheaper all the time. I believe it is now substantially cheaper to install than pumped hydro, or interconnectors



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,520 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    yeah, massive storage - but on the plus side, batteries have never been cheaper and the Sodium batteries are kicking into gear now which (on the surface) could even drive that further down! I'd be optimistic about things on a number of fronts.

    What I don't see though is "super cheap" night rates continuing, even if we currently have an abundance of generation at 3am. No data to support that only hunch - but if the market price is supply/demand based, and in a decade we have a million EV's charging into the grid at 2am to power up, there's your active customers soaking up all that power. I do think it'll be cheaper at night, but perhaps not negative or "super cheap" rates that you see with some providers.

    Time will tell I guess.



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 91,197 Mod ✭✭✭✭Capt'n Midnight


    The best CCGT on the grid can hit 60% efficiency. So technically speaking a heat pump with a Coefficient of Performance of over 1.7 would get more heat out of that gas. Just doesn't seem right.

    Gas is the "battery" for now. There's a few turbines on the grid now that can fire up from a cold start in 8 minutes.

    In future fuel from energy will be a backstop. It can do TWh of storage. The round-trip efficiency is low ~ 40% so you'd need to install more renewables but doing that also reduces the need for storage.

    One step change in batteries has been Lithium Iron Phosphate, they can take an awful lot more discharge cycles than Lithium Ion. This makes them a fraction of the cost to cycle on a daily basis.

    AI like Bitcoin is making things worse. It's not much adding much value compared to the energy costs. Garbage in, garbage out.



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,316 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    On the contrary. Prices for consumers will get even cheaper, even negative. But no, not at set times, you would have to opt in to a flexible tariff contract where you know the rates just one day up front. Then people with batteries will be very well rewarded for their investments. Not available in Ireland yet unfortunately but in a more forward looking market like the Netherlands, I think about 8 of the 12 or so utility providers offer it already and soon it will be mandatory for all of them to offer it



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,159 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    I see SSE Airtricity have announced another price cut today. Most significant is the fact that this cut also extends to their microgen rate.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 65,316 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    I got another refund from Pinergy a few days ago, over €800. That means I have paid them -/- €340 over 9 months with 4 more months FIT coming before the year is up. So I guess my estimate / wish came through: my total gas bill for the year + total electricity bill for the year (including fueling 2 EVs) is about zero now



  • Registered Users Posts: 27 ian123


    I hunted high and low for the microgenerate rate reduction, finally found it in their updated tariffs beginning July'24

    https://www.sseairtricity.com/assets/Tariffs/ROI/Future/1YR-ELEC-15-NightBoost.pdf

    here is a comparison of the previous and newest tarriffs from SSE (for NightBoost only)



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,240 ✭✭✭con747


    Around a 20% reduction in microgen tariff.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,520 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    I'm hoping your right, although I have my suspicions. It's your typical supply/demand model. Price is cheap when demand is low and there's a good supply. This has worked to Octopus's and others benifit over the last number of years as we've seen the usage low at 3am etc. and the famous negative prices, where they are paying YOU to use electricity. It seems like it shouldn't be true, but it is!

    Fast forward a couple of years and if we've say a million EV's soaking up power at 2am and the likes, the demand is there and while it's great to get a more stable load, I'm wondering if we'll continue to have these cheap zones.

    Again, hoping your right….



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,316 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Have a look at some of Tony Seba's predictions, going back over 10 years. Pretty much everything he said has come true. Some stuff even earlier than he predicted. Electricity will get extremely cheap anyway, pretty much as cheap as free in maybe 30-40 years time. You can see an early sign of that in the Netherlands, where pretty much every time the sun shines, the price goes negative.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,203 ✭✭✭Ubbquittious


    In theory I'd get away with it but I would have to be careful not to run it when other heavy appliances are in use



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,316 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    That applies to several appliances in the home, doesn't it? All of the following are at least 3kW typically:

    -kettle

    -oven

    -car charge point

    -electric shower

    -ceramic hub

    -heat pump

    Most of them can run at the same time, but on a 12kVA MIC or lower, you would need a load balancing device if you have car charge point and / or electric shower



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,520 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Yeah, I'm familiar with Tony Seba and his "s" curves. I do think that it will happen, but the timeline is hard to see happening in 10-20 years. But yeah, his point is always that once the "tipping point" has been reached, then adoption grows exponentially……

    We live in hope, but then you see articles from other countries with large solar penetration that have effectively zero FIT rates, as they've so much solar they don't want anymore being added. Negative pricing is cool, but if they take away the good FIT that may be net zero change - if you know what I mean.



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,316 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    FIT at a fixed price as we know it, will be gone. The only reason we have it is because we are behind. The price will be the price whether you take from the grid or feed in to it.

    So if the price is negative (as is the case often in the Netherlands), if you feed into the grid, you have to pay for doing so. In that situation in the Netherlands, you stop your inverters from producing PV and instead, you charge up your batteries, charge your car and in general, max out your consumption, while the price is negative. This can of course all be automated. In the Netherlands there are providers who install a battery in your house, you pay for the hardware, they supply the software that maximises profits and you get to keep 70% of the profit. All fully automated.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,659 ✭✭✭deezell


    Electric shower, 4 rings on hob, heatpump and car charger are much more likely to be 6 to 8 kwh. Decent Electric showers (i.e, actual warm water at a modest flow rate in winter), are voracious consumers, typically 8kwh. A practical installed car charger should provide 7kwh, even the tiddlers can pull 3.5. All rings on, on a quality large hob is close to 7kwh. Induction hobs are more efficient, but expensive and you need new pots'npans. If you want a heatpump to be able to heat and maintain house temperature in really cold weather, practically you'll need about 7-8kwh in and hope it COPs on to 2.5 to 3 times that output. Undersizing any of the above will frustrate you in the end, and an undersized HP will rob you unless your house is real insulation A rated.



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,316 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    A heatpump that takes 8kW input (so 24kW output or so) would be way oversized unless you have a very big house. As Graeme said, his one is about 3.5kW

    And the rest of your post - check mine. I stated about same consumption per appliance as you did 😂

    Even with a 12kVA connection, you can have all of those appliances no problem, but can't obviously run them all at the same time. The problem for most people would be the limited duration of the cheap night rate slot. If you have just 3 hours like I do, it is not enough to charge cars, charge a large home battery and use a heatpump.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,024 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    That's where the load balancing comes in, especially on the charge points ( and on some inverter driven heatpumps)

    That can throttle back on the rare occasion of all hobs on, oven on etc. (and you should be charging your car on night rate!)

    If you have a heatpump you wouldn't be running an instant electric shower, as it's much more efficient to heat your HW via the heat pump.

    If you House is A rated, your issue is likely oversizing than under sizing.

    (And it's kW not kWh for all the values you mentioned as it's power not energy)



  • Registered Users Posts: 699 ✭✭✭conor_mc


    80% of our housing stock is rated D2 or higher. My own is a bang-average C2 for a 1980's 4-bed detached with modern windows/doors and upgraded attic insulation, and I've calculated a continuous heat demand of about 8kW at -2C outside temps. Any properly designed and installed heat pump system (i.e. including properly sized emitters) at even modest COP of 2.5-3 will only draw 3-5kW of electricity for the average 3- or 4-bed home.

    Your 8kW input multiplied by COP of 2.5 would pump out 20kW of heat continuously. That's not a realistic demand level, that's more of a burst demand to add heat to chilly rooms. It's gas boiler thinking applied to heat pump systems, tbh.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,659 ✭✭✭deezell


    Without a doubt you'd be shuffling consumption. I'd read that people looking for two electric showers (and often the power shower variety, 10.5 kw), would have to settle for exclusive switched supply wiring, only one on at a time. Extend this to a heatpump and a 7.5 charger, and you could be in trouble. There are people in well built but not deep retrofit bungalows who would need an output of 25kw to bring the house up the heat in a modest time frame. I had my 22kw boiler serviced last winter, the chap said it was way too small for a 2000m² bungalow, true enough in the more extreme winter days, running almost constantly. He said 35kw should be used.

    To use a lower heat input source would require a Deep retrofit, almost a demolition, to line inner walls, (the outside is brick), dig up floors for UFH and deeper insulation, replace all the large double glaze, with the superior stuff, heat exchange ventilation and sealed increased attic insulation. I doubt even €100k would do all that, especially all the kitchen/bedroom/bathroom exterior wall fitments, tiling, plaster cornice and cabinets that would need to come down. In that context the current insulation spec has limited scope for improvement. The idea that a 3.5kw input heatpump could heat, or reheat after a days absence, a common house like this is ludicrous. Might as well demolish and rebuild an A+. I'll probably top up the attic, original 10" has settled substantially since the previous owner had it pumped in, circa 1999.

    I do know the difference between kw and kwh, the autofill likes to correct and add the h.



  • Registered Users Posts: 866 ✭✭✭Busman Paddy Lasty


    So what are you saying here? Heat pumps don't work because your house isn't insulated properly?

    Look for a thread by @Conor20, If my memory is correct. Did most of the retrofit work you mentioned and detailed the whole thing, costs and all.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 699 ✭✭✭conor_mc


    Heat pump efficiency is not as widely effected by insulation as is made out. They've been used to heat marquee tents after all!

    What impacts efficiency most is the flow temperature, which can be reduced by sizing the heat emitters and piping correctly. This is the single-most important factor in designing an efficient heat pump-driven heating system, not building insulation.



  • Registered Users Posts: 866 ✭✭✭Busman Paddy Lasty


    I didn't mention efficiency or flow temps so I really don't know why you have mentioned these.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,293 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Anyone here that can send me a copy of their nc6 done for a sunsynk 5.5kw hybrid, trying to help a friend out.

    Needs to be the new form, when I did mine it was a one pager but they changed since, asking for more info now.



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,159 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    The wired fire alarms in the hall/landing were due for replacement so replaced them with alarms with wireless interlinks. Have added additional wireless alarms in the utility room (washer/dryer), hotpress (immersion) and attic (inverter) for additional piece of mind.



  • Registered Users Posts: 433 ✭✭jasgrif11


    Which ones did you buy and do they have any HA integration?



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,159 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Fireangel Pro. They run their own 868Mhz mesh.

    There is a way of integrating with HA but it requires an extra radio module and a custom PCB. Not really a priority for me at the moment. Fireangel have their own gateway device + cloud service but no API as far as I can see.

    Main priority for me was something that was fail-safe in the event of an issue with HA.



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,225 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Did you use a heat alarm or smoke alarm in the attic? The guide says heat alarm, same as a kitchen. I assume it's because the attic is prone to dust which would cause false alarms

    Not sure if they thought about an inverter and battery, hopefully I never find out either way

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,159 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Heat alarm in utility room, kitchen and attic.



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,225 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Does anyone find they've been put off using gas in the past few years?

    Maybe it's just me, but the idea of pumping poisonous and explosive gas into people's houses to cook chicken nuggets seems outlandish in 2024

    I'm in a holiday home at the moment and it's gas water heating and cooking. I've found I've had to get used to checking the flame on everything as well as the stink of gas fumes whenever the boiler lights

    As for the boiler, it looks like something from Dealz. Proper cheapest of the cheap, doesn't even have a cover over the ignition window so there just a naked pilot light. It even pushes the cabinet doors out slightly when it lights, real confidence inspiring stuff 😬

    I get that for a lot of older homes there's no real choice other than a very expensive retrofit, but how can people realistically think this is the best option for heating?

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,011 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    I'm slowly moving my home away from gas to all electric. Getting an air to air heat pump for downstairs and using a large storage heater in the landing for upstairs. Might need to supplement with ir heaters for bedrooms. I'm hoping this winter is the last with gas boiler. We have a stove which hasn't been used in a while, hate the thing. Burning things indoors is not good for your health, who would've thought🤷

    ☀️



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