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Seplos BMS

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  • Registered Users Posts: 514 ✭✭✭The devils


    No problem


    Not at all sold on about 6 days. I was nearly sorry this morning though 🙈🙈

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  • Registered Users Posts: 169 ✭✭olympicweights


    Order placed for 16* 305Ah cells & battery cable pack (NKON) and Seplos Mason Kit (Fogstar).

    No going back now......

    Happy St. Patrick's Day!



  • Registered Users Posts: 751 ✭✭✭buzz11


    So they added a plate to the base of the case, very obviously needed... luckily offgridgarage called them out on it



  • Registered Users Posts: 448 ✭✭zoom_cool


    I have a Seplos BMS V3.0 with Active balance Board but when I switch on the Active Balance board a blue light comes on the active switch for about 30 seconds and switches off and I don't see any balancing happening in DEV Studio. The cell difference from Max to Min Cell Voltage is about 150mV.

    Can somebody explain what is suppose to happen should I see the Active balancer working in DEV Studio?



  • Registered Users Posts: 290 ✭✭Eleusis


    No help from seplos via documentation yet and no videos online by anyone on the way the v.3.0 active balancer works.

    Mine stays on for longer than 30 seconds though. I think it's meant to stay on for 24 hours. My deviation is max 8mv in each of 4 batteries. It's mostly around 4mv. Until I find out more info myself, this is the way I'm using it.

    Turn on when batteries are floating. Leave on for as long as I can until solar gone and then start to drain again. Then manually turn it off(hold button in for 5-6 seconds). I believe from my limited knowledge so far that if the balancer is on when it is not floating or close to full it will actually imbalance them.



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,041 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    At what voltage (either cell or pack) are you trying to balance at?

    You should only be trying to balance when cells are above 3.4v



  • Registered Users Posts: 448 ✭✭zoom_cool


    Pack is at 55v



  • Registered Users Posts: 448 ✭✭zoom_cool


    My understanding is it won't do balancing till difference is above 50mV it's a bit crazy that you need to be watching the batteries going into float as the Active Balancer is connected to BMS so should be automatic it seems to be badly implemented.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,456 ✭✭✭Evd-Burner


    Does anybody know where to install the 4 x temperature sensors while using a 16s2p setup?

    Do these need to be extended or will they screw with their resistance?

    Also should the tops be crimped onto a ring?



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,965 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    I have that setup and just placed them between two cells equidistant, I did not connect to terminals, I just used a bit of thermal paste and good tape, all good over a year later

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

    Public Profile active ads for slave1 (adverts.ie)



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  • Registered Users Posts: 57 ✭✭dermotx


    I know this question has probably been asked many times before but unfortunately it doesn't seem possible to do a search of a whole topic in Boards. I have a Seplos version 3 and a Solis hybrid inverter with 16 Lifepo4 batteries.

    Everything is fine but I'd like to limit the amount of charge to my batteries. At the moment my pack voltage is 54.7v for the pack which seems to equate to 99% charge. For battery longevity I'd like to charge the batteries to about 90% or around 53.6v. What's the easiest way to do this please?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,041 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    It's LFP, you can't charge to a voltage limit that low.

    Charging to 54.7 is only 3.41v and I bet once you stop charging they settle straight back to 3.3x

    They'll last for a v long time like that



  • Registered Users Posts: 57 ✭✭dermotx


    Great stuff. Thanks very much for that advice.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,572 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    That guide would have been very handy. Did you manage to put one together? I have bits and pieces of video I might put up online when mine is fully set up. It's currently just resting in my kitchen.

    One thing I have noticed is that the active balancer button does nothing when I press it. I believe it should light up blue, but nothing happens. To get the balancer board LED flashing, I have to press and hold the reset button for a few seconds. Can anyone confirm if the balancer button should light up at this stage, or if the battery needs to be fully charged for it to light up? I am assuming it should light up right away, so I might take another look at the connections.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,572 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    I picked up a used laptop last night so I can connect to the battery. I was going to connect it and noticed that when I turned on the battery, the LCD screen flickered a couple of times. First thought was the cable needs to be re-seated, but I was too tired to open it back up and retired to bed.

    This morning I was showing the battery to my Brother. Turned it on. LEDs turn on. No LCD!! Turned the battery off. Removed all the screws and took the door off. re-seated the LCD connector and turned it on again. Still nothing. I removed the connectors and inspected the pins. I noticed one of the J1 solder points was less than half done and was barely holding onto pin 4. It fell off when I placed the door on the counter-top to take a photo. Thought to myself maybe I did it when connecting the cable, but the unused J4 connection is also missing the solder joint on pin 2. Pin 1 on the LED board is also missing solder, but pin 1 is unused anyway. Pin 8 is corroded.

    Here's the LCD board.

    I decided to check the other boards and from what I could see, it's all fine except for the connector seats are sitting at different heights, rather than on the surface of the board. I only spotted it when I was re-seating the cables to also try resolve the blue light issue I mentioned above. See what I mean below.

    That one on the left is pretty high from the board and is probably why the balance switch wasn't getting power.

    The good news is the balance switch is now lighting up, but the LCD is not working. I would solder it myself, but have contacted Fogstar about it to ask for LCD and LED board replacements. This messing around is why I was opting to get a pre-built battery, like the WECO 5.3kWh, but you know what…I'm glad I went this route despite the problems experienced to date. The fun continues 🤣

    Stay Free



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,965 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Great learning experience, you could sell that setup and go pure raw cells with BMS now you know your way around

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

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  • Registered Users Posts: 448 ✭✭zoom_cool


    I have a spare LCD LED board for the Seplos BMS if you are stuck and they don't give you replacements let me know



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,572 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Thanks for that. Might just save me a couple of weeks waiting.

    Where are you based?

    Is it the same board as below? (E345969)

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users Posts: 448 ✭✭zoom_cool




  • Registered Users Posts: 3,572 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Spoke with Fogstar on Friday. Becky said they will send replacement LED and LCD boards and thanked me for the feedback. Nice crowd so far. I'll check in on Tuesday with them if I don't hear anything tomorrow.

    The used Laptop I picked up last week turned out to be a dud. Dark screen in one corner about 20% failed back-light made it unusable. My own fault for not checking when I picked it up, but no problem returning it. Picked up a new ASUS on Amazon. Delivered today. Can't connect to the battery because I don't know I needed a special rj45 to USB!!!

    I had picked up a cat6 lan cable and usb to lan adapter. Opened the seplos software and couldn't select a port. Back to Amazon for an rj45 crimp tool and usb connector.

    I've also placed my second order with NKON for another 16 cells today.

    Stay Free



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,041 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    It's not a usb lan adapter.

    It's a usb to rs485 that uses a rj45 connection



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,572 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    T'was a long day and my semi-literate levels of IT were stretched.

    I found something about needing to connect only 3 pins to A+B+GND. I've had to buy so many extras, I might just have to start a small business selling and installing these things 😂

    Stay Free



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,965 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

    Public Profile active ads for slave1 (adverts.ie)



  • Registered Users Posts: 169 ✭✭olympicweights


    I have a bit of time to spare atm so I'm going to start building my Seplos Mason Kit. Any guides or info in relation to the 280L with V3 bms would be much appreciated. Complete novice here.

    Have people reused their 25mm cable from existing battery setup on 15kwh setups?

    I have a Projoy Battery Isolator 160V 125A DC MCB - given my existing battery and inverter are close together can I cut the existing battery cables in half and connect cut ends to isolator? Is there a particular tool to cut the cable and do I need a connector or can I just insert cut end into MCB? Thanks.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,572 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    I believe I have mine wired up correctly. If you have any questions on that, feel free to ask. I took a couple of videos for myself.

    I'll be using an isolator too and bought large ferrules and crimping set. You could just insert them in raw, but I wanted to be a bit more refined with the setup. I intend to use the cable that came with the inverter. I didn't receive cables with the battery to connect to the inverter.

    I'll be adding bus bars, because I will have at least 2 batteries by end of August.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,572 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    For anyone with the V3 BMS, you need to connect pins 1,2 & 5 (or 8,7 & 5) for B, A, GND on the USB to UART Bridge. I got this nugget from the DIY Solar Forum. Hopefully this saves a few headaches. The dongle I used is pictured below and available on Amazon.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users Posts: 169 ✭✭olympicweights


    Would you have a picture of where you connected the on/off switch and the balance button? There appears to be a couple of possibilities! Also there are ,3 connectors on the front cover but I only have 2 cables to connect - is this correct?



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,572 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Yes. Only 2 cables go to front cover.

    For the other cables you asked about:

    I will get back to you

    Post edited by ...Ghost... on

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users Posts: 169 ✭✭olympicweights


    Thanks for that. Is your balancer not connected to the LCD/screen connection per the instructions? Or am I misreading it?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,572 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    You know you might be right on that one. I'm not 100% sure yet. The BMS has a 9 line cable on the bottom right with pins 2 and 3 off shooting and connecting to the balancer. The other 7 lines are terminated into a 9 pin plug which connect to the LED board.

    I've to open it back up when I get the LCD and LED boards from Fogstar and I wanted to check if I had connected the balancer button to the wrong seat on the BMS. I cobbled mine together from the shítty instructions and some online videos. I'll probably get a chance this weekend to take another look. What makes me believe it is wired correctly is the balancer button lights up (it hadn't before when in the wrong seat) and I have connected the battery to my PC and retrieved cell and BMS data.

    If you want, PM your number, I can send you a video I took from last week when I was finished with the wiring. It might help confirm you have done it right, or wrong, or you might spot a mistake I made.

    EDITED:

    I found a couple of cables in the wrong place. It was incorrect thanks to one of the install videos I watched. I will put a video together to help people with this wiring portion.

    Post edited by ...Ghost... on

    Stay Free



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