The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

It's worth a punt, (or even some €), on dry weather it's perfect, it forces the clippings down for a better finish.

You aren't going to get rid of that line of dry clippings with the cow horn (deflector). Ideally to mulch as deezell says you need mulching blades which lift and cut the grass at the edges then chop the grass a bit more as it gets forced down by the reverse action of the blade further in. This explains it

another

Hi guys,

The petrol cap on my Husqvarna ride on came loose and I managed to reverse over it and obliterate it, does anyone know where I can get a replacement from?

I have googled and looked on more sites but cannot find anything referring to my model which is a Husqvarna YTH23V48, I don't know if these are fairly standard on husky riders or if mine is an unusual model but am getting nowhere, the filler hole is about 3 inches in diameter.

Thanks in advance

Denis

This part no. is used in earlier (2010) models of YTH 2348, 23V48.

584248702

This no. gets some hits this side of the pond, such as;

https://newgardenstore.eu/en/tank-caps/52158-Tank-cap-for-lawn-tractor-compatible-HUSQVARNA-584248702.html

Thanks, I finally got to test and the engine turned, any idea what or where the solenoid is on the Viking 5112z :-)

Just got back to my mower as I've been away for a few weeks. Opened up the hood and was checking all electrical connections when I noticed some evidence of fuel leakage. On closer examination I found the hose in this picture (off the bottom of the carb air inlet hose) was disconnected. Not electrical, but do you think that could have been the source of my issues.

EDIT: Just fired her up & cut the grass with no issues, so something sorted the electrical problem. Whether it was this or just tightening up all the connections I don't know. However I must have had this hose disconnected for some time as the mower has been a bitch to get started this year - often having to turn her over for 30 seconds or so before she'd catch, but, once I fixed the hose, she started first time with no problem

Hi folks.

Has anyone had any great success in getting parts for the woodies pro lawn branded mowers?

My self drive has stopped working, sounds like the cogs have worn out as it's just makes a grinding noise when uou engage the drive.

I adjusted the cable but this didnt help

I noticed it struggling a bit lately on slight inclines so was probably on its way out.

I'm pretty sure the pro lawn models are just some Chinese generic model which is probably identical to some others.

I will take a few pics of the mower and remove the drive cogs later to see if there is any salvage possible.

Some pics

It might be the pinion gears inside the wheels rather than the transfer gears in the drive shaft gearbox. These rarely wear, the cable operated friction clutch inside is more likely to wear out after considerable use. The pinions in the rear wheels have a sliding pin ratchet mechanism to allow different wheel speed when turning. These can stick, or the ratchet cams inside the pinions can get worn causing the pins to slip. Take off the rear wheel cover, unbolt the wheel and slide off. All will be revealed. Remove the pinion circlip, the the pinion and pin. Clean thoroughly. The pin should move freely. Don't grease or oil, this will attract dust and make the pins stick. Inspect the inside of the pinion, there are three curved cams. The face of these should be straight. Typically they look like this, left and right handed.

Thanks for that, I'll have a look later today.

Any easy/quick way to sell a tractor lawnmower or just stick it on donedeal? do any companies offer trade in without buying a new one? I guess probably not

Thats it, I got it at end of year sale for 200 quid a few years back, it does the job but one blade with only one side if you know what I mean so not great

Will end up buying a bigger one soon

The strimmer is great

I read that the automowers are limited to a slope of 50%, thats how Husqvarna measure the angle, which is a slope of 26.6°, 1 in 2. A 45° slope is 100% by that reckoning. The 353 4 wheel drive claims 35°, 70%, or 7 up in 10 horizontal forward, (TAN 35°, to bring you back to school maths). I don't know if there's any thing other than the tracked robotic things I've seen being used on road embankments than might best these, but 45° would require an extraordinary low center of gravity not to tip over, especially given that the rotating mass of the motor and blade might be inclined to flip the mower on a certain perpendicular turn, like a gyro, if you were using it left to right. You'd definitely need 4 wheel drive if you mowed up and down a 45° slope, and I think you'd need tracks, it would probably just slide down on damp grass. Any chance you could get a demo? Husky info below.

https://www.husqvarna.com/ie/support/husqvarna-self-service/how-to-optimise-an-automower-robotic-lawn-mower-installation-for-steep-slopes-ka-01431/

Great if you have the time to wizz around a site on a regular bases. Often no collection and not mulchers so needs regular cutting before the grass gets too long but fast cutting makes that easy. I'd love one on my odd shaped site but I'd have to cut every week and maybe occasionally more often to keep it looking really good. Con is price for a good one is a more than a similar sized bagging ride on.

Blade belts should be SPA profile (13wx10d) on ride ons, (SPZ or SPZX (cogged) are extensively used on walk behind wheel drive belts). SPA are better tgan standard A due to the clutching when blade engaging, either by electric or jockey wheel. They're an extra 2mm deeper than standard A Vee of 13x8. The clutching can twist the shallower belt, or pull a chunk from it if its not a wrapped belt. It will wear quicker too, slip under load and wear the pulleys.

Fully wrapped SPA can be expensive as a genuine part, but reputable engineering suppliers like Fox engineering or Reliance will have SPA in the exact size for your machine. Some of these are rare, slightly off standard, such as the SPA1507 used in the Stihl/Viking/Alko 48" synchronous decks. These belts are often priced at €60+ as a genuine part. A standard Vee belt might be a tenth of that but won't last. I paid €15 in Fox for an exact SPA1507 match to the original part no. belt. Mower manufacturer use part nos. and odd sizes to obfuscate and make it difficult to get fair priced equivalents. Try finding the actual size of the Stihl 61707042150 belt. It's never printed on the old one. (Its technically 1507 by 12.7mm wedge)

Probably someone stuck on a cheap A profile belt. You'd get away with it, but heavy loading would eat it, and clutch starts would bite a lump out of it. I've literally just replaced my blade belt with a proper wrapped equivalent, I previously replaced it with an Internet one which was SPA profile but not wrapped (bare rubber visible on the sides between the top and inner cord plys). It lost it's mojo fairly rapidly after a season, couldn't keep it up in heavy cutting and would slip. There was a barely attached chunk on the inner hanging off, so time to change. I was dropping the deck anyway to replace the steering rack and pinion. My own fault, I neglected to grease it, the grease I could see on it was actually congealed with dust and not lubricating the teeth. The pinion teeth on Stihl/Viking/Alko/MTD and some others is helical cut, its sliding vertically past the rack teeth when you steer, so a dry pinion will eat the rack. Check out the old ones, all chewed up.

I've checked out the manual, it's as simple as you say, hold it down. Out of curiosity, check if it disables other blade cutout actions, such as standing up off the seat, lifting the bag etc. Regardless of these, you might be better off to replace it with a switch. I've checked the parts, it a simple single pole push switch, I'm not sure if it's push to make (close contacts) or push to break (open). It appears to be just push fitted in. If you prise it out and measure the cutout hole, then replace it with an ordinary toggle or rocker switch or perhaps a push to make push to break toggle. Here the spares image of your reverse switch, (£42!)

You could replace it with a push fit rocker switch from an autopart shop, something like this one from The Range,

Looking for self propelled lawnmower for a fairly large garden with a budget of €400.

Would anyone have any recommendations?

It is Amazon Prime day and they have this on offer.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/WORX-WG779E-2-Cordless-battery-Batteries/dp/B075FYDHF8/ref%3Dsr_1_5?crid=32X5RQH3VK7AO&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.mdPj1_KvpcQ_gZSNuLi-B35OiiAhGqUjhAxqF109fbsJzR0-5EYpP6AEteBXeBSlzcjI96dWk4PrRw-gqiJtUmtqmScw_PigglibNHPUrqdDULxwOu91qR2qzm4DlKiLRamU5ghc5-bk5lRhNULPiRovVpz2-sBZoaKArjb95Gtcy4pb_fxbHHzfO5tf5d1_UPhgNapmrHwizOOkHW-KYldhpQXk0H0IiCbQHVg5U_g.TVCv2YnHv8lxcCWj19AkBQTr7P-skK4XUwsZjqQZsBc&dib_tag=se&keywords=cordless+lawnmower&qid=1721220281&sprefix=cordless+lawn%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-5

Are Worx cordless lawnmowers any good?

Alternatively, Screwfix has the following Titan cordless.
https://www.screwfix.ie/p/titan-tti836lwm-18v-1-x-5-0ah-li-ion-txp-brushless-cordless-34cm-lawnmower/326vx

These brands are new to me.

I've no experience of blower mowers, but all mowers use the blades as a fan to blow the grass into the bag. The mower in that (American?) ad you tagged is nothing special, aside from the side blower and the extra width of the deck at 58", the mower itself is a basic ride on frame, 23 hp engine and rear wheel drive

The 50" Stihl 6127 or Alko with same size engine would be a more affordable option at €6500 . Around 10-11 grand here for the 48" JD, the bigger 54" deck would surely add an extra 500, and the powered side bagger €2-2.5K. The wider cut does not have a larger engine, so will cut at roughly the same max rate.

Its a domestic mower, you'll get some commercial quality for a spend of €12-13 grand. You'd get two of the 50" Stihl 6127zl for that, with massive build quality, but not a lot of Kubota