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Clearing rushes

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,520 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Get a 2L jug put water in the tank set it up turn it on and measure the output of one nozzle for 60 seconds. 3 bar woukd be high IMO

    Count the number of nozzles and multiply by amount of water. You now have the amount of spray the sprayer put out in 60 seconds.

    You then find out your tractor speed in KM at the difference gears. Usually most lads aim for 80-100L/acre.......200-250/HA.

    If you are travelling at 5km/hour with a 10M boom you travel 83M in a minutes and. cover 830sqM. A hectare ( 2.5 acres approx) is 10000 sqM . At that speed it takes about 12 minutes to cover a HA. You want the sprayer to deliver 250-300 L in that time frame.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,770 ✭✭✭Jb1989


    Right away. It's well absorbed in now



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 695 ✭✭✭Silverdream


    About 600ml aka about a bit more than a pint, add about an egg cup of fairy. If you go any stronger with the mortone you'll start to burn the grass too or badly stunt the grass.

    Mortone is slower acting and really only works well on weak rush that has been topped earlier in the year. Spray August/September and leave them over the winter (don't cut them) to die off



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,179 ✭✭✭limo_100


    That's two light you need more chemical I find 100l does an acre and with Mortone I use 2l to 100l / 1acre. I find Mortone is better for killing rushes that agroxon as the slower kill works much better for long term. Always found the agroxon kills it too fast to get to the roots



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,150 ✭✭✭mr.stonewall


    Blue nozzles at 3 bar pressure and travelling at 6km/h will deliver 240 litres per ha or 100 litres per acre. Use that as your guide to set up and you won't go to far wrong. Only fails if the nozzles are worn out and over time they will as the nozzle hole will get bigger.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 999 ✭✭✭Aravo


    Was fencing a rushy area recently. The ground was wet a few months back so left it till now. It was really hard to drive the stakes after a foot. Have weed kicked this area previously which killed the rushes but they came back. Would a subsoiler be any good to bust the hard pan. I think I would prefer to try this first. Maybe mulch down the line. Any one have good or bad views on subsoiling and how it worked out



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,819 ✭✭✭50HX


    If you want a permanent fix then you have to drain the water away otherwise all you will do is control rather than eradicate rushes...its a costly job but you'll do it once

    After that you need to work on ph & soil fertility & rush will disappear.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,819 ✭✭✭50HX


    Spot on....nice kill on them



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,480 ✭✭✭older by the day


    Half the 10l drum of agritox, to 400l, have the tractor a bit higher than ticking over. And go as fast as you can in the rough ground.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 266 ✭✭Omallep2


    Great kill. What chemical did you use and at what rate - just so I can learn from you.....



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,520 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    We are under pressure to hold onto MCPA as an agri chemical. It a great weedkiller. However the amount of chemical on the foil that seals the drum of MCPA if it gets into a stream traces can be detected 20KM down stream.

    We are under pressure with it being detected in streams and rivers adjacent to wet land. If you want to hold onto it as a spray for rushes and for other weeds be f@@king careful how, when and where you use it.

    You will miss it when it's gone

    Post edited by Bass Reeves on

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 724 ✭✭✭PoorFarmer


    Dead right. I would be as well off to let the place go wild here if MCPA is removed from the shelves. Application rates and only applying in suitable weather and land conditions are vitally important if we are to hang onto it. Water system around here is already one of the hotspots in the country for MCPA when tested.

    Firing out higher doses of the chemical won't make the rushes any more dead than the recommended rate and that is before you even look at the extra cost.

    Stopped spraying for most neighbours a few years back because the amount of lads that wanted to spray right up to watercourses or put on double the recommended dose of chemical was driving me nuts. Trying to explain that there is a maximum rate allowed was like talking to the wall.

    I find for rough ground that if you max out water: chemical ratio that you can travel a bit slower to get the application rate right. 2.7 litres in 400 litres and you are still ok usually.

    I always use maximum water rate here as I would have patches of rough ground that I wouldn't be able to get to every year due to ground conditions. You would want to be covering almost 5 acres with your set-up above to be applying at the correct rate.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,934 ✭✭✭White Clover


    Best practise when spraying needs to be promoted.

    I spray at 120 litres of water per acre. 1 litre MCPA per acre. Using standard blue nozzles, I drive at 8KPH at 3 bar pressure. One 420 litre sprayer covers 3.5 acres.

    Post edited by White Clover on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,819 ✭✭✭50HX


    At that psi & speed are you not are at 97litres per hectare?

    Assuming the psi is correct @3bar & the 6kph on the speedometer is checked.

    For mcpa I think the extra 20litres of water is beneficial.

    You are correct tho, best practise when spraying needs to be promoted more.

    Neighbour has a field right nxt to me & I've to close the windows of the house when he's spraying for docks...place is like a car wash🙄



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,934 ✭✭✭White Clover




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,520 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    8 kph is quite fast when spraying. When spreading fertlizer I trave @7kph. Spraying down around 3.5 to 4kph.

    Try to keep spray pressure down to below 2 bar.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,584 ✭✭✭DBK1


    You must be a patient man or are you thinking in miles per hour? 3.5kph is a lot slower than walking pace. With a 12 metre sprayer at that speed and allowing for headland turns you’d be only covering 8-9 acres per hour. I’d fall asleep in the tractor at that pace!

    13 kph spreading fert here with a 24 metre spreader and I find it a good speed in smaller fields but in bigger flat fields it’s still a bit slow but it’s the speed where I know all the rates 100% accurate so I stick with it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,520 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Sorry mph. 7mph is about 11kph and 3.8mph is about 6kph.

    My sprayer is 10 neter and on my spreader i use the 10meter spreading settings.

    Rushes are usuall on rough ground If I was spraying them I would be back probably below the 6kph.

    I actually calibrated my spray so I have setting for about 2.5mph in a book.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,584 ✭✭✭DBK1




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,770 ✭✭✭Jb1989




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,770 ✭✭✭Jb1989




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,770 ✭✭✭Jb1989


    I'd Poor enough results this year spraying on the country. Dunno if it was the weather being hit and miss afterwards. Or has spray got a lot weaker this year.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 113 ✭✭manno


    Once you get them killed, I find Urea is great stuff to keep them gone, provided the field isn't waterlogged half the year, in that case proper drainage is the only long term solution.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 925 ✭✭✭Sacrolyte


    what’s the procedure for turning a heavily rush infested field back to good quality ryegrass. How have you guys tilled the ground and is there a special mix that’s suitable for marshy type land. Would the fact that all rush roots ect being eliminated make it more prone to poaching?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 113 ✭✭manno


    I reseeded a few very wet fields10 or 12 years ago. It's right next to the bog. There is a special seed mix for poor land but I didn't like it. I found the normal grass seed better. I would have always sown rape the first year and by the time you are tilling the following summer, the roots of the rushes would be gone. The land is still super wet because i didn't think it was worth spending thousands on drainage., but the rushes never came back. I think the reason is that I give it plenty fert. Sometimes it could be 1st June before I get to spread but it would get a bag of urea and then 2 bags of compound later in the summer.

    The man next door is always remarking on how I have no rushes. He bought a weed licker and it gets plenty use!



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