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Flooring attic for storage/home office

  • 08-08-2024 10:58am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭


    Looking for some advice have a 4 bed detached bungalow with hipped roof. Had toyed with the idea for years of doing an attic conversion with 2 rooms and proper stairs up into it but have gone away from the idea due to costs, the fact that i would be losing one room downstairs to put in the stairs and so only gaining 1 room in effect.

    What i am thinking of doing now is just putting in a stira and getting someone to floor out the attic, put in 2 velux windows and slabbing if off so its one big space. Would just be using it more or less for storage as it is at the minute, but also as a home office when needed, when the kids are older need a quiet place to do homework study, playroom etc.

    A few questions firstly around insulation, at the minute i have the attic insulated with the rock wool both between and rolled out on top of the joists and very happy with it, obviously that will have to come up if flooring it. What are my options then for insulation, is it between the rafters? Also if i am going to be spending sometime up there working what are my options for heating, and is there a need for ventilation. What sort of cost would be involved to do the whole job in and around, the floor area of the house downstairs is 125 sq. metres. thanks in advance.



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,042 ✭✭✭✭NIMAN


    You have asked a lot of questions I'm unqualified to answer, but also consider if you need to apply to planning permission if the attic space is to be converted for home office, extra sleeping space.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,661 ✭✭✭drury..


    Wouldnt make sense to use a stira there

    Either it's occasional use or not



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,413 ✭✭✭✭salmocab


    depending on the original build not sure just flooring it out is enough, there may be too much give for constantly walking about which might cause issues on the ceiling below. You might need to reinforce the flooring and at that stage you are only a staircase away from the original idea.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,321 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    Should be exempt providing its no more than 40 m2, house hasn't been previously extended and Velux are kept to the rear of the roof.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,321 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    Ignore this.

    Edit: for some reason or other I couldn't quote but it is post no. 3 I'm referring to.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,661 ✭✭✭drury..


    If it's my post you'll have to do better than that

    Ignore this means nothing



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,321 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    Yes, joists will need to be checked for load bearing capacity. If there are collar ties there they need to go and roof strengthened accordingly. Studding to be fixed, insulation and air right membrane applied, plumbing and electrics should be handy enough. No idea as to cost as it varies around the country.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,321 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    I have seen your posts in other threads and they aren't to be taken seriously.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,661 ✭✭✭drury..


    Again

    You're saying nothing meaningful regarding the thread

    Just you don't like me as a poster or something

    Maybe it's you who's not to be taken seriously



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39,615 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    If its part of the house then yes it need st obe insulated, ventilated, etc. But there is not much point insulation the walls, and and roofline, and then having to heat the space if it's for storage. Storage can be unheated.
    If its not storage (and sounds like its not) then a stira is not really appropriate. If you don't have room for a stairs, then you you probably haven't the room to have a stira that is opened for large parts of the day.

    If you're going to do it, do it properly and plan the stairs properly



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 722 ✭✭✭Sixtoes


    Can you draw a rough sketch of the first floor? There’s usually a couple of options for stair locations that won’t leave you minis one full room. Done my own recently and lost approximately 1000mm x 2300 from a room.



  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭k mac


    Sorry when i say storage i mean the stuff thats up there now xmas decorations etc. will still be stored up there still.. and it would be used occasionally . To give context i work from home some days and set up the laptop in the kitchen or sitting room which is fine most of the time but not ideal on occasion such as when the kids are off school so i suppose the idea is that i could go up into the attic on some of those occasions so obviously would need some heat ventilation. again when the kids are older and studying for exams doing homework etc. not enough room for a desk in there bedrooms so they could use it for that again just for a few hours on occasion.

    I suppose what i am getting at is i don't want to spend huge money and go for the whole attic conversion for something that might not be utilised alot.



  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭k mac


    Apologies i am not much of an architect as you can see from the drawing, its not really to scale the hall is fairly narrow so would not get a stairs in there like most people would have. The only option i ever thought of would be just inside the door opening in bedroom 4 putting a L shaped stairs in there, with the main part going up in line with the rough line in the picture, by doing that i would left with a really small boxroom in place of bedroom 4



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,808 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Would you consider going up from the dining or sitting room?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 195 ✭✭Mo Ghile Mear


    Neighbour of mine with v similar layout and needs put an external timber stairs rising to a sturdy platform at the gable end of his house, and a door from that into the attic. His gable wasn't facing the road so he didn't apply for planning permission as it wasn't visible. It seems to work well for them and it opens into the widest part of the attic. It looks well too.



  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭k mac


    Would not be possible from the dining room or sitting room. Again not possible as suggested with external stairs on the gable as the roof is hipped



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,894 ✭✭✭standardg60


    Two options I see are to widen the hall by moving the wall of bedroom 4 in. Or from the utility back up through the hot press.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,821 ✭✭✭Hooked


    I did similar in my last house. Was mid-terrace so had the full span of the attic. I put the stira in the box room at the end of the house. Floored, plastered and 1 velux. No planning needed as it was simply "storage". No issues when I sold the house 2 years ago… Think I got out of the job for 2000… as we did everything ourselves (except the Velux and plastering).



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 722 ✭✭✭Sixtoes


    you always want to come into the attic at a high point, close to a gable wall. I think below options would work if you could slice 1000mm off the main bedroom or Bedroom 2.



  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭k mac


    thanks, only thing is close to the gable wall would not be the high point as its a hipped roof



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 722 ✭✭✭Sixtoes


    Ah I missed that.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,321 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    What width is your hall and the bedroom beside it?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 460 ✭✭com1


    Spiral Staircase?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 195 ✭✭Mo Ghile Mear


    A chat with an architect or architectural technician might be worth looking into. Not for detailed architectural drawings but just for an opinion and advice. They just have an eye for options that the rest of us don’t see. A consultation just to visit the house and give an opinion might be worth the fee.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,877 ✭✭✭mrslancaster


    Could the new stairs go where the hot press is - straight up into the attic. (Needs a safety wall or banisters around the opening in the attic). Stairs behind door in the hall. Part of the ceiling in the utility room would be slanted (don't know correct builders terminology, sorry). Move the hot press into one of the bedrooms in a fitted wardrobe - maybe the boxroom.

    Edit: Didn't explain what I mean clearly so found this image - something like this.

    Safety wall something like in the first picture:

    https://www.thisoldhouse.com/attics/21018914/read-this-before-you-finish-your-attic

    Post edited by mrslancaster on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39,615 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    Those are the sort of items I was thinking of. By bringing the storage space inside the thermal envelope, you will be heating this space. Seems a bit of a waste keeping your Xmas tree comfortable and warm.

    Best option is 180deg stairs at the end of the corridor. will lose some of bedroom 2, but not the whole room.



  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭k mac


    The widest part of the hall inside the front door is 56 inches, while the bit down the hall corridor is 3 foot wide. The bedroom beside it (as in bedroom 4) is 9ft 8 in length and 11 ft wide.

    Another option that could be possible is the wall between bedroom 3 and bedroom 4 is divided halfway so there is built in wardrobe in each room. Maybe the stairs could go where the built in wardrobe in bedroom 4 is, closest to the outer front wall



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,359 ✭✭✭Padre_Pio


    You don't need planning to convert an attic.

    You may need planning to add Velux windows to the front of your house.

    OP your best bet is to go upstairs and take a few pictures. There's a hundred things that may need to be considered. A lot wil depend on the roof pitch and frame, you may get very little usable height.

    At a minimum you'll need to floor the space, add Velux windows, insulate between the rafters, build stud walls, wire, ventilate, slab, plaster and paint. All these become more difficult if you just have a stira access.

    Personally I'd leave the rockwool between the downstairs and upstairs to keep the main house warm and soundproof the office.



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