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Moving rad using pex piping

  • 22-08-2024 12:44pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,542 ✭✭✭


    1st time poster here so go easy on me 😊

    Am moving a rad across a room and watched all the usual YouTube stuff so feeling grand with how to do it in practice. Never worked on a rad before. What width pex piping do I need in mm? Looks like a standard rad is 15mm, so 15mm pex is used for that.

    2) Anyone who has moved a rad or replaced the copper with pex on it want to step through how they went about it? I plan to ‘bung’ the expansion tank in the attic to keep a vacuum so whole system won’t drain and save eme having to clear air for every rad (one old rad at least has has a stuck air vent, so air won't come out of that)

    3) I think I’ve an vented cylinder / open-vented / gravity-fed systems. I’ve the expansion tank in the attic. Weirdly I’ve also an expansion tank - thought they were only used with unvented systems. So that has me confused



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,479 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    What your YouTube videos won't tell you is that in Ireland we (mostly) use imperial fittings so thats 1/2 inch pex not 15mm, but might be 15mm pex ;-)

    So make sure you know which you have and get fittings accordingly. They are interchangeable to a point but ideally you need different olives on the compression fittings otherwise make sure you have the correct fitting for tectite etc.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Should be straight forward enough job. Amateur myself but have changed rads and moved rads etc. Get the right tools and the right fittings and you should be sound.

    Even When bunging the tank, prepare for lots of water. I did that once and whether it didn't quite seal or whatever, but alot of water escaped.

    There is a big difference between doing these jobs in a finished room or a room that's a building site. If you are not worried about abit of water getting on the floor, you cant really go wrong.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,073 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Yes, agree with mickdw here, I've done lots of small jobs on my heating over the years and I can do it fine without a full drain-down… but there are tricks to it.

    Firstly, often the valve from the cold water tank in the attic sticks open and can't be sealed off fully. You may need to play with that to get it to close off enough to start.

    Second is that I always have a Vax nearby just in case it floods more than I expected.

    Third is that you can often temporally cap-off a half-inch pipe using a stop end applied loosely (as long as there isn't any water pressure). Have one handy, link below.

    Fourthly, lookup how to apply PTFE tape properly.

    Fifthly, make sure you have a good adjustable wrench as a standard pipe pliers will damage the fittings and wreak your head.

    Sixth, use a marker on each joint to mark when you have installed an insert, then an olive and then tightened it fully.

    Seven, add in inhibitor to the rad before refilling (it can be a real b1tch to get in on some rads). Then refill it slowly while venting the new rad.

    Lastly, expect weeps on the joints and make sure to check them after an hour, a day a week…

    https://www.plumbingproducts.ie/compression-nuts-ireland/396-compression-stop-end-351-3-4.html

    Good luck



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,542 ✭✭✭DC999


    Thanks all. Appreciate the help



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,421 ✭✭✭✭rob316


    Best of luck, but I'd drain the system, it doesn't take long.Absolute last thing you want is alot of water and panicking doing a DIY job.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,974 ✭✭✭whizbang


    Turn off both ends of all rads first, its surprising how little water will be left in the system to drain down then, and will much reduce the need to bleed.

    Do not use PTFE Tape on any fittings in your case.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 815 ✭✭✭jsd1004


    Good tip, Draining down a system though is always a recipe for problems when you fill it. Usually big problems. Should be easy but never is.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,073 ✭✭✭10-10-20




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,542 ✭✭✭DC999


    Well, it's drained down now :) What problems bar air locks can I expect?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,073 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Be fine. Just adding a bit of time to it.

    Airlock troubleshooting ———> that'a way.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,886 ✭✭✭drury..


    I'm a spark bit my understanding was they're not needed



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,479 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Totally correct but there are some reasons to use PTFE tape provided you put it in the right place.

    Firstly on olives it only goes on the mating faces ie the the face of the olive that goes into the pipe, its worse than useless on the thread of a compression fitting.

    One reason for using PTFE tape is that modern fittings aren't always as good as they should be and the machining of the fittings can be a bit rough PTFE saves any issues with that.

    The down side of PTFE tape particularly for armature use is that its a lubricant and allows the fittings to be done up much tighter. An over tight fitting can deform the pipe and not seal properly. Just starting to tighten plus no more than one turn is all you need on a compression fitting, I'd go with a third to half a turn after you start to feel resistance with the spanner.

    If PTFE tape is not used some plumbers still use some form of sealant on the olive.

    Hands up I'm not a plumber either :-)

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,886 ✭✭✭drury..


    Good to see we're agreeing at last 😁

    All I know about plumbing is back in the day we'd change the immersion heaters but then there was too many problems with leaks

    After that it became a job for the plumber



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,542 ✭✭✭DC999


    Skillbuilder on YouTube also recommend that: 'Firstly on olives it only goes on the mating faces ie the the face of the olive that goes into the pipe.'

    Says it's the way he learned as an apprentice and has never had a leak doing that. But he says it's horses for courses as others don't agree with it



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,073 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Basically if you look at an olive, it's symmetrical, but the only part which actually makes a seal is the face which goes into the connection under the threads. The face at the nut end is only there to allow the olive be compressed into the joint, making a seal with the surrounding metal as well as forming itself around the pipe.

    So by rights, as you said, the only face that actually needs PTFE to make a seal is on that half of the olive, but in practical terms ots not possible to only dress half the olive, so it ends up bring applied over the whole olive.

    There are pastes which can also be applied, but again they are applied all over the olive and then the joint tightened up as normal.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,974 ✭✭✭whizbang


    Not a plumber either, but this is the stuff I love for pipe sealing of any description:



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