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12v halogen spots not working

  • 31-08-2024 6:39pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,220 ✭✭✭


    Hi Folks

    JJust moved into a new house, the TV room has 9 spots none work with switched on.

    I have done some troubleshooting with a voltage detector and this confirms power is getting into and out of the lightswitch, but no power getting to the lampholder. I checked this at the lampholder and also just before the transformer at the junction box so not a transformer issue either.

    Does this mean I'll have to open up walls/ceilings to get to the issue?Really hoping not!

    Thanks.



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,899 ✭✭✭drury..


    Connection issue probably somewhere

    Halogen is old school now ,.might be time to upgrade



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,220 ✭✭✭cojomo2


    Thanks drury.

    Yes agree.. plan is to whip out the transformers and wire in new GU10 lampholders and go with LEDs.

    However, this is not got yo work if at present, there is no power going into the transformers.

    i don't fully get it, the switched live from the switch has power (confirmed by voltage tester ) but no power at the transformer side .

    How are multiple 12v spots usually wired to a dimer switch, do they all go into a big junction box which then goes back to the switch,?

    TThanks



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,899 ✭✭✭drury..


    Usually they're daisy chained

    If they're all on a dimmer that would be a possible cause of the problem . You may not be checking voltage reliably

    You could consider new fittings if going the GU10 route .

    Fit proper enclosures (joints) for the wiring and consider fire-rated to reinstate the ceiling fire barrier if 2 storey building



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,220 ✭✭✭cojomo2


    Thanks..but the main grey wire (containing the blue, brown and earth) in the ceiling is showing as dead with the voltage detector. This is the wire that goes into a junction box which connects to the transformer then connects to lampholder. Does this mean its more serious..and I will have to open up walls/ceilings? Thanks.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,899 ✭✭✭drury..


    Not usually. The joins are normally accessible in the ceiling void

    Easy to bypass dimmer to check that

    Can also be something loose at a joint

    Needless to say you need a 2-wire tester to check voltage , preferably with dimmer bypassed



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,641 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Exactly, many "voltage detectors" are unreliable. Also the issue could be a lack of a neutral.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,220 ✭✭✭cojomo2


    Thanks all. Problem sorted. Faulty dimmer switch. 9 hlx 50w halogens working off it which was 50w over its rated capacity. Switch replaced and all mr16s replaced with GU10 connectors.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,899 ✭✭✭drury..


    Ya there was a 1000w dimmer back in the day , used it a bit for that scenario

    They'd never last on the 400



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