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Heat Pumps - post here.

16768697072

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,506 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    Just saw in the news today good to see that someone has noticed the need for HP service engineers…

    https://www.rte.ie/news/regional/2024/0624/1456330-heat-pumps/

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 392 ✭✭andyd12


    Has anyone carried out a heat loss calculation recently for a new build?

    What air change ratio are you using?

    What ratio are companies like Grant using when sizing heat pumps?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,622 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    These are the recommendations going by the SEAI Heat Loss calculator.

    * Due allowance to be made where mechanical extract ventilation is present



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,825 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Hi folks,

    After getting triple glazing done our hli is 1.93. the only thing left we could do is external insulation, semi detached hollow block. We have lots of windows and doors so wondering if it's even worth while. Gas heating for at least 5 years more id say.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 79 ✭✭AidanD12


    Hi everyone,

    I'm getting a 12kW HP installed this week along with 6.9kW solar PV. My usage is relatively low at 3800 kW/year. Will be getting a EV in the next year. I'm trying to decide whether it makes financial sense to include a battery or not. Been reading forums for ages and feeling overloaded in information now but still can't decide whether to go with one or just wait and see how my usage/costs pans out. Are people generally advised to go with a battery or not? I know it's definitely not a staight forward forward question with lots of "it depends" but would still like peoples opinions.

    Thanks in advance



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,200 ✭✭✭championc


    Is that Heat Pump sized correctly ? 12kW unit is huge, and if oversized could cost an absolute fortune to run.

    Certainly a 12kW unit will eat up the storage of a battery, no doubt about it.

    Heat pumps are not like gas boilers. You cannot just go big just to not be too small. Has a proper Heatloss calculation for the house been done ?

    You must be using loads of oil or gas

    To answer your question directly, a battery only makes financial sense if bought for half nothing, based on current FIT rates



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,325 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    It could be like my 12kW it can go as low as 3kW output. Not too alarm the OP there.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 241 ✭✭curioustony


    Pick the correct plan, and a battery works. Wrong plan, then it's other factors that make the decision: The price of the battery; backup power; FIT rate; getting ready for dynamic pricing (but that's back to the plan -- I hope)

    🌞4.55 kWp, azimuth 136°, slope 24°, 5kW, 🛢️10.9kWh, Roscommon



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 79 ✭✭AidanD12


    Thanks for the reply championc. HLI is just under 2, house is 220m2 and oil use to around 1500 l/Yr so not that high. The quotes I got were all in around that HP size so hopefully not too big or small. I've the same feeling re battery just not sure. Am going with hybrid inverter to allow battery later if FIT rates change.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 79 ✭✭AidanD12


    Thanks for reply curiostony. Could you elaborate a bit what you think the correct plan is to make battery work. I downloaded my usage for the last year and I use about 25% elect at night (11pm to 8am), 15% peak (5 tp 7pm) and 60% during day (8am to 11pm ex peak)



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,608 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Correct but 12 still looks like a big number, especially iff the OP ever has to use the elec backup.

    OP what is your domestic MIC?

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,294 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    the way i thought about a battery was my HP in the winter can consume up to 20kwh in a day, in that context a small battery isnt really worth the hassle, if i could get a 15-20kwh battery and use night rate energy to charge it then yes but your highest HP usage will be in winter, solar production will be lowest and your battery depending on size may only be able to provide 25-50% of your HP usage on colder days.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 26 paddy236


    If you have a smartmeter then ESBN will have your historical usage. You can download the Eco Power Optimiser from Play store, connect your ESBN data and then add inverter and different size batteries/solar to get predicted yearly costs. It can also suggest which electricity provider would give you the best savings.

    https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tfcode.comparetout



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,608 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 79 ✭✭AidanD12




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 408 ✭✭munsterfan2


    When people say a 12KW heatpump, I assume they are referring to the output power. My Ecotouch 5008.5 has the following specs, and when heating never goes above 1.6kw power input ( close to 8kw output with a COP of 5 ). COP is lower in summer as when it heats the water power usage can go up to 2.2kw.

    https://www.waterkotte.eu/heat-pumps/ecotouch-ai1-geo-geo-heat-pump-6-18kw



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,608 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Thanks so maybe worth looking at possible HP 12kw

    Cooking 2

    other 1

    Car 6.4.. charger should have load mngt on it

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,200 ✭✭✭championc


    If the heat pump was pulling 2kW, then a 5kWh battery would barely last 2 hours. Maybe someone with a 12kW (or similar) could guide you on the potential usage in kWh per day.

    Or what has your installer suggested will be the consumption per day during the winter ? Surely they have given some level of guidance over consumption, as to what to expect ?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,608 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    the 12 in my view is symptomatic of the oil/gas boiler plumber brigade: go big or go home

    1500 litres by OP is 15,000 kWh's, old which X is hot water

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 241 ✭✭curioustony


    🌞4.55 kWp, azimuth 136°, slope 24°, 5kW, 🛢️10.9kWh, Roscommon



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 79 ✭✭AidanD12


    Thanks Cyrus - that was my thought too, which is the argument in favour of the battery usage but would like to be able to the maths on it to determine how long the payback would be. Presumably charging when there is excess during day and when elec is cheap at night. Not the easiest to figure out tbh



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,589 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    The inverter compressor will leave it modulate down to a much lower output, it will be rare you would be running at max output. 242sqm and 11kw heat pump i have.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 79 ✭✭AidanD12


    Thanks Paddy. Cool idea and thanks to @curioustony for developing. I tried that there but app didn't seem to be able to fetch the data



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 79 ✭✭AidanD12


    Thanks again championc.

    Installer didn't get into that level of detail in terms of consumption. They basically sized the pump by using

    Area House (220) * HLI (2) * 24 = 10.6kW .. their closest HP is 12kW.

    Their advice re battery was to wait and see what my specific usage is and after a time (12 month) I can choose to add a battery based of this or not



  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,411 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    Where do the get the HLI figure from? The Technical assessment you need to do for the grant or do they do a separate assessment themselves?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,200 ✭✭✭championc


    So a HLI of 2 but for that size of house, you only use 1500 litres of oil per year, and that includes water heating 🤔

    Is the house modern / well insulated ?

    Suppose it was 1.8, then you only need a 10kW unit, so you could be oversizing by 20%



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 79 ✭✭AidanD12


    From a technical assessment I got done prior to getting any quotes. Think I can get some of the cost back through the grant. Installer did their own assessment for the quote but didn't include a HLI afaik



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 79 ✭✭AidanD12


    House is 20 years old. Had to replace 2 external doors and 2 windows to get it down below 2. Walls are pumped and generally house is well insulated. Still have to increase insulation in one part of the attic from 150 to 300mm. To get HLI down any further will involve a lot more expense. Oil usage is accurate.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,608 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Just for clarity

    The TA works as follows:

    Opening BER say HLI is 3

    TA includes all the upgrades required to get it back to below 2

    These calcs are done in the BER software and the HLI comes from what is in effect a pre-works, unpublished BER

    This will include a specific HP, OP you need to ensure that the one used in the TA work is the actual one they install.

    There is no wriggle room.

    The SEAI grants graveyard is littered with applications where the actual HP, due to say supply issues, was not the one in the TA and it failed the HLI test done in the post works published BER.

    This scenario is not pretty as HO is out the grant mula paid to installer

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 79 ✭✭AidanD12


    Thanks so much Clkahonda52 for all that feedback and advice.

    The TA doesn't mention a specific HP in any of the reports. Like you say there is a list of upgrades to get HLI below 2 but no detail on HP specifics. It did include a published BER. Hopefully this is not an oversight by the TA and doesn't impact the SEAI grant application. I can't see any place in the TA Form where this information should be either. I'll get onto him to ask about this.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,825 ✭✭✭micks_address


    hi folks,

    might be the wrong thread to ask - we currently have a gas boiler and will have for next 5 years id say - we want to change our hot water clyinder - its 120 litre and on the small side as we are running a shower from it.

    What I'm wondering is could i it a 'heatpump' cylinder like this one

    https://www.tanks.ie/aerocyl-210l-heat-pump-hot-water-cylinder/p2057?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw3P-2BhAEEiwA3yPhwJCe1QTJQPLGSxrun1M7-wQTjLJ9zJrikW1oO9xlQZ2lClW0FFs33hoCrEsQAvD_BwE

    and run it off my gas boiler?

    Cheers,

    Mick



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,608 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    I do this work, the HP is in the BER calculations, not explicit in the TA, but you need to be sure that what's in the BER is what you get, or get the BER run with whatever is available.

    Mitsubishi ABC will not be the same as the XYZ version, have seen many cases where plumber had one in the van, when other was not available. in one case I had, the unit was available but plumber had been stuck with the unit in the van so shafted the homeowner: we got it sorted as we were able to prove that the correct unit was in stock.

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 241 ✭✭curioustony


    Feel free to pm me if you are stuck.

    ESBN changed the API a few months ago. The latest version allows you to load a file you have manually downloaded from the menu, beside the help. I do not have the bandwidth to keep chasing an non-supported API

    I have asked ESBN for an API, but not holding my breath. Maybe if others do this too...

    🌞4.55 kWp, azimuth 136°, slope 24°, 5kW, 🛢️10.9kWh, Roscommon



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2 LookinRoundACorner


    Hey folks, i have a Waterkotte heat pump, about 15 yrs old now. I have hot water for heating but domestic hot water is not working. have checked settings and such and want to try new fuse as logical next step. Opened it up and cannot for the life of me find it. Any help would be great and save what little hair I have left from being pulled out.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,325 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    No clue on that heatpump but possibly it could be the 3 way value that switches from heating to hot water?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2 LookinRoundACorner


    Possibly, I will have a look. Gave it a rest let things settle. Thanks



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭hexosan


    I second this one, have you a pic of the the 3 way valve. You should be able to take the top off the valve and turn it with a pliers.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,200 ✭✭✭championc


    DIY Install - up and running 😃



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,491 ✭✭✭DC999


    Brill, the new Dublin 'Urban Plumber'. Tell us more!



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,200 ✭✭✭championc


    I will post something more detailed in the plumbing section in the near future.

    A big take from this is that it's a great setup for those with rads, provided you don't install a buffer tank.

    You could also run this like a gas boiler, and the rads hear only marginally slower than gas, but you wouldn't want to be going over 50 deg like this.

    But the biggest advice I can give to anyone is

    Get access to the controller and discover / find out / understand what ALL parameters mean.

    And, if you have any way of getting the data into Home Assistant - then do it.

    If you want to save money - know and understand as to what it is doing, and judge the consequences of changing any parameters

    I bought an ebusd.de dongle



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,002 ✭✭✭Busman Paddy Lasty


    Will try keep an eye out for it. Gas boiler at home but run rads at either 50 or 55 degrees C.

    Could swap in future if we can get comfortable at 50 degrees rad temp.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,825 ✭✭✭micks_address


    I've seen few designs in UK on YouTube with 35 degrees flow temp.. what flow are you running at?



  • Registered Users Posts: 184 ✭✭A cup of te


    Brand new to air to water heat pumps. The builder has left mine on to dry out the floors. Can I just ask is it normal for the fan thing in the outdoor unit to be constantly on/spinning? I thought when it got to a certain temperature it'd stop running/making noise. It is 33 degrees on the main indoor unit, says that's what the water is at. The plumber still has to give me a tutorial on this. I don't have stats in rooms yet. It's certainly heating the place inside. It's way too warm right now inside but why would it be constantly running especially since it was warm outside today. Is this normal when it's switched on for the first time? I'm terrified of getting a huge esb bill. I am going to learn more when the plumber comes back. Grateful for any info on what could be happening in the meantime! Thank you. It's a Hisense.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,589 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    Its been left on to dry out floors so when its running the fans outside will also be running. In these warm temps the fans wont make much noise at all though, only when it gets much colder it gets noisy at the fans. Usally there is drying out program built into the system that the plumber activates for few days.



  • Registered Users Posts: 184 ✭✭A cup of te


    Thank you for taking the time to respond. That puts my mind at ease a bit. It's in the night when you'd want to sleep that I notice the noise. I'll learn more about it as I go on. I'll keep following this forum and threads.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,200 ✭✭✭championc


    Don't think you should really be hearing it though. I would only expect to hear it if it was running at full whack.

    Consider buying a Shelly EM to monitor the power being used by the heat pump, unless you can get data from it.

    It is the single most important thing (in my opinion) to have full visibility of what is happening, especially when a single wrong setting can cost you a fortune in running costs.

    Download the manual and educate yourself. Look at videos online.

    In my opinion, plumbers should physically install heat pumps, but they should mainly be commissioned by heating engineers.

    Does the plumbers even have a heat pump in his own home 🤔



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,325 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Floor dying is a specific mode to set the floor.

    In normal operation it will only come on when the house needs heat



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 454 ✭✭zoom_cool


    Was it hard to get the Valliant heat pump are they sold in Ireland yet? Did you also get the Valliant cyclinder?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 316 ✭✭Eleusis


    33 indoor temp and a drying house. If you have mhrv make sure it's also on dryout mode. If you don't, then open the windows to let the moisture out



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,200 ✭✭✭championc


    Obviously, the temperature will change with the outside temperature, but yes, currently it ramps up to low 30's when it kicks in for maybe 30 mins in the evenings. But the more important part is that that is at around 500w

    No problem getting it in the UK, and getting it shipped over. €200 for a pallette.

    Since I have solar tubes and have a low demand for hot water, and have 5c night rate, and solar batteries to Topup with grid shifting of needed, I chose to leave the DHW completely separate.

    I have / had a Combi boiler, but had stopped using it for DHW since last November to prove that I could get all the hot water we needed from the tubes and night rate



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