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Wildlife pond

  • 28-04-2024 07:34PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,661 ✭✭✭✭


    I am mulling over the notion of making a wildlife pond in my garden. I have a suitable space and the size is only limited by the cost of the liner and underlay - I am anticipating approx 5m x 6m and a metre deep at the deepest. I've been reading up about it and watching diy pond videos on Youtube so I think I have an idea of how to go about it.

    However I don't see taking power to it for a pump being feasible, any thoughts on keeping a wildlife pond clean without a pump? I can put in plenty of rocks and pebbles as bacteria surfaces, add oxygenating plants and possibly have a small solar pump, but setting up something that requires more than plug and play is not an option. Any thoughts?



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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,009 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    That's a big pool if it turns into a green soup mess. I have built a few ponds & I have always relied on filtration especially after finding out that the barley straw didn't work. I am sure that it's possible to get it balanced but I have never tried mainly because the ponds have been near to the house & in view.

    You might be able to go the solar route but it won't be cheap especially as I use UV as a clarifier



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 52,153 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    I've two ponds, never had an issue with them despite no pumps. They're not nearly as big as that though.

    Only time I've ever seen people with that issue is when they've had fish in the pond.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,661 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    Its the green soup syndrome I want to avoid, the pond will be out of sight of the house at the end of the garden.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,661 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    That size doesn't seem too big in the space available, its a while since I measured it though and that might be the size of the liner, which has to be a good bit bigger than the hole. Would the size of it make any difference to the chance of it not staying clear though?

    There will not be fish, I would like to see frogs and dragonflies etc but otherwise I'm hoping it will attract wildlife, we are about a kilometre to any water, even drainage ditches, so it would be interesting to see what might take up residence.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,716 ✭✭✭macraignil


    I don't think a wildlife pond needs to be or should be as clear as a pond intended for keeping fish. I built one a bit smaller than what you are suggesting about five years ago and decided on no fish as I wanted the pond to host frog eggs and tadpoles which would be eaten by the fish. I have read that an annual removal of organic material to help keep the pond clear works to keep it tidy but did not bother doing any of that until just yesterday as for the the first few years the water was clear enough for my liking without doing anything.

    The build up of rotting leaves over a few years (as my pond does have more deciduous trees near it than I think are recommended) I think did lead to more nutrients in the water and a lot of growth in the pond this year and although it still had tadpoles in it earlier in the year the growth of vegetation was so thick I no longer could see the water beetles or other types of pond wildlife that I had in the pond after a few weeks of building it when I used a bucket of water from an existing natural pond nearby to seed the new pond with the life needed for a healthy pond ecosystem. Gardeners world on the BBC last Friday suggested pond clearing as a job for the weekend. Posted a video of the cleaned water here in a play list that includes the early appearance of the pond from a few years back. Hopefully I will be able to post a video of some of the pond based wildlife that I have got used to seeing coming back over the next few weeks.

    Happy gardening!



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,855 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Great comments in here already. From my perspective I have a small 1 cubic meter pond with 7 goldfish and it suffers badly from single-cell algae as well as filament (string) algae. Both algae are feeding off the waste nutrient from the fish, so the balance is difficult to keep in order... except that I have an oversized bio filter which does a very good job of breaking the nitrite and nitrates down, and a UV filter to keep the single-cell algae (pea soup) down.

    Anyway as pointed out above, if there aren't fish in the equation, then the system is easier to maintain in-balance but will need cleaning of leaves over the winter period. I also like to have a crop of pond weed that I can 'harvest', enabling me to pull out significant volumes of nutrients to try maintain the balance

    The natural establishment period for a pond is around 2 or 3 years; that is to move from being pristine to having a good bacteria base as well as bloodworms/tube worms and water fleas and snails, etc. That period can be shortened significantly by introducing a good sample of mud from a local pond and/or river after around 2 or three weeks.

    Having a good strong oxygenator in the center and masses of surface-area (coarse pond or river sand is good for that) as well as coverage from sunlight, is going to give you the best chance of achieving a clear pond.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,661 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    Great, thank you for all the suggestions and tips, it sounds as though I might be able to maintain a reasonable pond with a bit of care. Agreed, I am not expecting crystal clear water, but I don't want one of those solid green affairs either.

    I have to wait till the ground is dryer to dig it as it will mean taking a digger across the grass, but as soon as the opportunity arises I will make a start on it.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 52,153 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    is where the pond will be shaded? i believe that can make a difference.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,661 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    No, there are trees - mostly silver birch - around, and a large red maple off to one side but the path of the sun has pretty clear access to the area. It was overhung by three willows, but they were the last ones in the garden, all the others had died or fallen over, evidently the land is not suited to willows (its really not) but the last three all gave up last summer - one just died in full leaf over a few days, one fell down in a storm and one got a large wasp nest in the roots, resulting in it half collapsing, so now they are all gone. There is a lot of potential for leaves going into the pond but I will deal with that as necessary.

    The area is on a slight slope, so I will have to account for that but I reckon dug out soil can be used to raise the lower side.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,045 ✭✭✭blackbox


    Expect the pond to get loads of algae in spring and don't worry about it. If you have plenty of waterlilies and oxygenating plants to provide surface shade it will go clear in the summer.

    Preventing too many leaves from going in is also a help.

    If you don't have any fish, you might get plagued with midges in late summer.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,855 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    If you don't have any fish, you might get plagued with midges in late summer.

    Good point, I hadn't thought of that. Then the trade-off with fish is the need to be fed, but also protected from freezing-over during colder periods. Maybe it's far enough away from the garden/house that it won't be an issue.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 52,153 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i must be lucky - i only ever had to take maybe two handfuls of blanket weed out of the pond in the i think nine years it's been there.

    currently dealing with an issue in the small pond in the front garden which clearly has a minor leak but which i simply cannot locate. rigid liner, which was a bit of a pain to install compared to the flexible liner.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 83 ✭✭stringed theory


    I built a similar sized Wildlife pond a few years old using butyl rubber with overlay as well as underlay, all covered in a layer of earth so it looks natural. The first year the water was green due to suspended algae, but the oxygenating plants dealt with that. Nowadays, a green scum grows on top. This is "blanket weed" (another, self-adhering, form of algae) which is easily removed using a fisherman's net on a pole. The water itself is clear.

    If you go the route of lining it with earth there will be lush vegetation around the edge so water will soak out in summer and you need to have a source to top it up. There are frogs which are rarely seen except when they congregate and lay spawn, maybe one day a year, and of course some biting insects counterbalanced by colourful dragonflies.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 52,153 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    you mean a green scum like you used to see in the canals?

    i get plenty of duckweed in mine. easily skimmed off.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,045 ✭✭✭blackbox


    Duckweed blocks the light from algae. Helps keep water clear.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,661 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    Yes, the site is a good distance from the house, we already have mozzies - daughter got bitten yesterday!

    Thanks for all the helpful comments, I am looking forward to doing it, this year's project.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,855 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Yes, duckweed is the one that you want to encourage as it will keep the algae's (single-cell and string/filament) at bay by sucking up the available nutrients.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 52,153 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    you could go the whole hog and make an outdoor swimming pool!



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 52,153 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i always try to keep some of the pond surface clear, just for a bit of variation.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,661 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    Er, no, there was a swimming pool (in manky condition) which has now been replaced by a sunken garden! Haven't missed the pool at all.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 453 ✭✭slystallone


    Is there any good battery powered filters out there?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,855 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    I've never seen a battery powered pond pump/filter. Motors don't tend to work well with batteries due to their power demands.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,009 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    There are low voltage pumps but they are expensive. You can get solar powered fountain pumps but they are low flow rate. Lidl had a battery powered water pump.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,661 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    So the Great Pond Project started last week. Last year's start never happened due to weather and a bad back, all is good now though and after a week of dry weather I decided to make a start. I was very fortunate to get a man with a digger (relative of a friend in a small community, lot to be said for it even if I am a blow-in 😁) to come on Saturday, the last dry day of the 'summer'. Huge back-hoe digger that was delicately moved between young trees and shrubs with no damage to them or the grass.

    I had a plan, which was regarded with some amusement, and cribs about it being in metric, so I changed it, it was actually helpful in spite of the muttering, and all went well. The smaller bog garden shape was dug out and the soil dumped on the grass, the liner (cheapish one from a garden centre) and sub-liner put in place and the soil replaced. The main area was then dug out with allowance made for the slope in the ground and shelves and a deep section. It doesn't look much in the picture but its exactly what I needed and tidying can be done with a shovel over the summer. Its 4m x 6m to accommodate the size of a liner - approx 6.2 x 8.

    A mini-digger might have been able to do more precise digging, but it would have taken a couple of days and would not really have had the reach, whereas the big digger just stood in one spot and did it all, in two hours. Staggering how much soil comes out of a hole in the ground.

    I thought I would have loads of spoil in big heaps but he spread it behind the hole (buried some of the sub soil) and once it has been tidied up I will be able to put grass seed on it. There was way more top soil than I anticipated so it should grow grass no problem. I have kept a pile of subsoil to put into the pond, but it is more stones than soil so it will have to be sifted to get subsoil to put on the shelves. I may have made a problem for myself there. I could level it a bit and transfer some of the top soil if its not working to produce subsoil.

    The main problem with the hole is that the bottom of the deep bit is just shale/stones, raking it is not going to solve that, and the sides are stoney too. Sand will probably sort the bottom, once I have levelled out the stones but I think I will have to use something like sheets of cardboard against the sides, under the sub-liner. Carpet would be great but I don't have any, maybe something will turn up before I get to that stage.

    Anyway I want to finish tidying the bog garden area, then levelling the spoil before it all gets sodden/turns into a solid lump. It will all take a good while as I am not as young as I was, but no problem, I am looking forward to doing it. Ultimately I am getting lining from Lining Services in Waterford, its about the best there is, very expensive - I recon it will cost me about 1500, but all the rest of the job is a waste of time if I just use cheap liner.

    pond-digger.JPG pond - just dug.jpg

    Looks like a mess, but is a better shape than the pic suggests. I have to get the level set up again on it. Its a metre deep at the centre.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,855 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Brilliant, well done!

    My spearmint has gone mad this year but the added bonus is that it has prevented the long filament algae from taking hold so far. That could all change in a blink, but right now I have crystal-clear water.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,661 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    Is the spearmint a water plant?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,855 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Yes, grows well in a pond. I started it in a perforated box with pond safe media, it throws roots out quickly and establishes well. The thing that I like is that it's not difficult to control as the stems break off when pulled, so easy enough to maintain a clear portion of the pond.

    20250414_165622.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,855 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Looking online now, it might be peppermint and not spearmint. I've cooked with it on lamb and it's good.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,661 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    Thats a beautiful clear pond, and the mint looks great.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,855 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    It has a UV filter and a bio-filter on there too. You can make your own bio-filter, I used to make them using large flower-pots and various gradients of sand. If you're going to go down that route then seeing as you're in WD then have a look at fish-box filters!

    You'd need to mask them off from the pond unless you're into the industrial look. 😁

    As they need to be higher than the pond, they can be the source of a waterfall if you have the height to make a fall/run.

    You can use biochar for one of the filter layers.



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